eLinux.org - User contributions [en]

User:Pinoccio

2012-11-09T16:28:07Z

Pinoccio:

=== Pinoccio ===
* IT engineer & electronics hobbyist & some more ;)
* check out my:
** [[RPi 5V PSU construction|Power Supply construction - HowTo]]
** HDMI-2-VGA adapter modification [http://imgur.com/a/sLogs/all HERE]

R-Pi Troubleshooting

2012-11-09T16:24:02Z

Pinoccio: /* Display */ new section HDMI -> VGA adaptrs

[[Category:RaspberryPi]]

Back to the [[R-Pi Hub|Hub]].

This page lists the most common problems and suggests some solutions.

See [[RPi_Bugs]] for problems that are bugs.

==Power / Start-up==
A good power supply that will supply 5V is vital. There is more information about See [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems]].

Note that the PI has no BIOS, so nothing will be displayed on screen unless the PI successfully boots!

===Red power LED does not light, nothing on display===
The power is not properly connected.

===Red power LED is blinking===
The red power LED should never blink, because it is hard-wired to the 3.3V power supply rail. If it is blinking, as one user has reported<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=7528</ref> it means the 5V power supply is dropping out. Use a different power supply.

===Red power LED is on, green LED does not flash, nothing on display===
''note; For technical reasons the green LED might light up very faintly, this is normal, but it doesn't mean it "burns". When flashing/blinking the green LED should light up as bright as the power LED.''
*The Raspberry Pi cannot find a valid image on the SD card. Check card is inserted correctly. Check that you have correctly written a Raspberry Pi image to the card. Did you have admin rights when you used the SD-card writer software? Without it the software might go through the motions without actually doing anything! To check if the writing process did actually happen Insert the SD card into a Windows machine and you should see bootcode.bin, loader.bin and start.elf amongst others. See also, [[RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#SD_cards|Known SD Cards]]. It is also possible that the image you are writing to the card is corrupt, as downloads do occasionally end up corrupted or truncated. You can check with the checksum utility if your download is correct.

*Try with no cables connected except the USB power lead, and SD card inserted. You should see flashing of the OK light for ~20 seconds. If that helps, plug in cables one at a time to identify which is interfering with boot.

*The voltage is too low (below 5 V), try a different power supply and/or cable. The R-Pi needs a supply rated for 700 mA or more. Some supplies labeled as such cannot actually provide their rated current while maintaining 5V. See also, [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems]].

*There may be a bug in the distributed version of bootcode.bin which causes problems with some sdcards. Try this version: https://github.com/raspberrypi/firmware/blob/234c19de7cbaaf4997671d61df20a05759066295/boot/bootcode.bin. Please let us know if it "fixes" your non-working SD card (or, more importantly, if it doesn't). This can also manifest itself as intermittent booting, or only booting when cold.

*''(unlikely)'' hardware abuse, for example by connecting a 7 V supply to a 3v3 GPIO output pin<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5096&p=76503#p76503</ref> or powering up the board after a solder splash shorts some traces<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5096&p=76654#p76654</ref>.

*Look at the SD card holder on the Raspberry Pi carefully. At first glance it may look fine but the contacts must be springy and they must protrude at least 2mm as measured from the lower edge of the holder to the top of the contact bulge. This happens due to the solder process and the type of holder used. Some of the solder residue falls into the contact cavity restricting the springiness and the height that the contact protrudes. You can fix this yourself but remember you can void your warranty. The contacts are delicate so be carefull. Insert a needle pin under the contact bulge and pull lightly up until the one end of the contact unclips. Clean the cavity where the contact unclipped from of any solder or other residue by blowing into the cavity. Clip the contact back into the cavity by lightly pushing it into the cavity. Do this for all the contacts. Look at these photos. [[Media:SDcardHolder.JPG]], [[Media:UnclipContact.JPG]], [[Media:UnclippedContact.JPG]]

*If for whatever reason the main polyfuse F3 has been overheated previously it may happen that it hasn't completely recovered, in which case, if you turn the PI on, a considerable amount of energy from the power supply is lost in the fuse and doesn't reach the PI. Try if the polyfuse seems hot. For this problem too read [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems]].

===Green LED blinks in a specific pattern===

With recent firmware, according to [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=8725#p103338 this forum post] the green light will blink in a specific pattern to indicate some types of errors:

* 3 flashes: <tt>loader.bin</tt> not found
* 4 flashes: <tt>loader.bin</tt> not launched
* 5 flashes: <tt>start.elf</tt> not found
* 6 flashes: <tt>start.elf</tt> not launched
* 7 flashes: <tt>kernel.img</tt> not found

If start.elf won't launch it may be corrupt.

===Coloured splash screen===
[[File:Debug-screen.jpg]]

With recent firmware, a coloured splash screen is displayed after firmware (start.elf) is loaded. This should be replaced by linux console a second later.
However if the coloured screen remains, it suggests the kernel.img file is failing to boot. Try replacing it with a known good one.

Immediately after displaying the splash screen, the PI starts consuming a little more current, if the PI resets at that moment its an indication that your PSU isn't able to deliver the full current your PI requires, but dips its output voltage below a minimum when loaded with the full current the PI needs.

===Kernel Panic on boot ===
Text appears on screen, but then hangs with debug messages. This can be caused by USB devices such as keyboards.
Try again with nothing in the USB.

===Raspberry Pi shuts down (or restarts) soon after booting up===
This is caused by a power supply producing too low a voltage. See [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems]].

===Pi boots sometimes but not always===
With a known good power supply and known good SD card, the R-Pi boots occasionally, but other times shows only a tiny green flicker from the "OK" LED and it fails to start, even with no USB devices and no Ethernet. This has been reported several times<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/will-not-boot-consistently-any-suggestions-before-i-send-my-pi-back</ref>
<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/booted-once-wont-work-again</ref>
<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/possible-fault-pi-boots-sometimes-but-not-always</ref> and remains an open issue. Low voltage or an improper SD card can cause it. Some SD cards will work until they warm up slightly, and then fail<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5900&p=79008#p79008</ref>. When exposed to 21 C room temperature the warmest part of an uncased working R-Pi should be 41 C<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5900&p=78973#p78973</ref>. The wiki has a [[RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#SD_cards | list of working SD cards]]. Buy from a reliable vendor as it has been [http://www.petapixel.com/2011/05/20/one-third-of-the-sandisk-memory-cards-on-earth-are-counterfeit/ claimed] that 1/3 of all "Sandisk" labelled memory cards are counterfeit.
*It could be that the SD memory card is not making proper contact with the Raspberry Pi. Look at the SD card holder on the Raspberry Pi carefully. At first glance it may look fine but the contacts must be springy and they must protrude at least 2mm as measured fron the lower edge of the holder to the top of the contact bulge. This happens due to the solder process and the type of holder used. Some of the solder residue falls into the contact cavity restricting the springiness and the height that the contact protrudes. You can fix this yourself but remember you can void your warranty. The contacts are delicate so be carefull. Insert a needle pin under the contact bulge and pull lightly up until the one end of the contact unclips. Clean the cavity where the contact unclipped from of any solder or other residue by blowing into the cavity. Clip the contact back into the cavity by lightly pushing it into the cavity. Do this for all the contacts. Look at these photos. [[Media:SDcardHolder.JPG]], [[Media:UnclipContact.JPG]], [[Media:UnclippedContact.JPG]]

==Keyboard / Mouse / Input Devices==

===R-Pi does not respond to key presses / Keyboard randomly repeats key presses===
''note:during entering the password most linux distro's wont show that you typed in anything (not even "*" characters) this is normal behaviour, try the keyboard while entering the user name!''

This is most often caused by inadequate power. Use a good power supply and a good power cable. Some cheap cables that work with a cell phone, cannot fully power the R-Pi. Some USB devices require a lot of power: most will have a label showing the voltage and mA requirements. They should be 5v 100mA each max, any more than this they must be used with a powered USB hub. Try unplugging every USB device except the keyboard (you should also note that some keyboards have built in hubs and can try to draw 150mA (Pi can only handle 100mA per USB slot without a hub)).
Also, use the latest software. Forum user MrEngman [http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/absolute-beginners/using-a-powered-usb-port-to-power-a-rpi#p76485 reported] some keyboard repeats and wireless hangs until [http://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads upgrading] to the debian6-19-04-2012 kernel, which he reports stable with no problems even with a low [[R-Pi_Troubleshooting#Troubleshooting_power_problems | TP1-TP2 voltage]] of 4.65 - 4.68 volts.

===Keyboard / Mouse interferes with USB WiFi device===
Connecting a keyboard and/or mouse while a USB WiFi device is connected, may cause one or both devices to malfunction. On April 30 2012, there was a bugfix<ref>https://github.com/raspberrypi/linux/commit/e09244e60881148431ecd016ccc42f1fa0678556</ref> relating to USB sharing between high-speed (eg. WiFi) and full/low-speed devices (eg. keyboard/mouse). User spennig<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/usb-power-hub-wifi/page-4#p74609</ref><ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/success-with-kb-mouse-wifi?value=3761&type=8&include=1&search=1</ref> reports this patch did not fix the Mouse/WiFi conflict. On 2012-05-12, user spennig was pleased to confirm that wifi was working with a USB keyboard and mouse, as long as the Raspberry Pi had a good PSU and a powered hub. Even so, some experimentation was needed, e.g. USB WiFi connected to the device, and the keyboard and mouse connected to the powered hub. Some experimentation may be necessary to find a working combination; however a good power supply is essential.

===Wireless Keyboard trouble===
Some wireless keyboards, for example the Microsoft Wireless Keyboard 800 are reported to fail<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/display-and-keyboard-issues-on-a-real-pi#p74816</ref> even though the current drawn by the wireless adaptor is within the R-Pi USB spec limit of 100 mA. This may be a software driver problem.

===Re-mapping the keyboard with Debian Squeeze===
If different letters appear on-screen from that which you typed, you need to reconfigure you keyboard settings. In Debian, from a command line type:
sudo dpkg-reconfigure keyboard-configuration
Follow the prompts. Then restart your RasPi. '''Or:''' From the command line type:
sudo nano /etc/default/keyboard
Then find where it says <blockquote>XKBLAYOUT=”gb”</blockquote>and change the gb to the two letter code for your country. [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=78325#p78325]

===Slow keyboard mapping===
If you have remapped your keyboard and get a very long delay during the keyboard mapping at startup, type the following once on the command line after you have logged in:
sudo setupcon

===No USB device works, with known good PS, SD card, KB===
There has been more than one report<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=7533</ref><ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=5766#p77576</ref><ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=5766#p80995</ref> of a R-Pi booting but not getting USB input, using a known-good power supply, SD card, and keyboard. The more common cause for no USB devices working is [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems|low power supply voltage]] from bad PSU, cable, or USB hub, but in this case the problem was no clock signal present at the LAN9512 USB/Ethernet chip "IC3", and the solution was to reflow the solder on the 25 MHz crystal "X1" on the bottom side of the board.
Or return the board for a replacement, but before making this conclusion, confirm known good peripherals. A significant number of
[[RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#USB_Keyboards| USB keyboards]] are not compatible with R-Pi. As of June 1 2012, Eben reported<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=6822&p=89589&hilit=eben#p89513</ref> that only about 1 in 1000 shipped R-Pi boards have been found to have a hardware fault of any kind.

== Updating firmware ==
=== Check your firmware version ===
Using the latest firmware version may help various problems with SD card and display compatibility. Check the kernel version with:
uname -a
Linux RPi 3.1.19 #1 PREEMPT Fri Jun 1 14:16:38 CEST 2012 armv6l GNU/Linux

And the GPU firmware with:
/opt/vc/bin/vcgencmd version
May 31 2012 13:35:03
Copyright (c) 2012 Broadcom
version 317494 (release)

=== Get the latest firmware version ===
The GPU firmware and kernel can be updated with [https://github.com/Hexxeh/rpi-update Hexxeh's rpi-update tool].

However this requires the Pi to be successfully booted. With sdcard problems, you may not get that far, so can try a manual udpate.
If you have a Linux machine, rpi-update can be run on that in an offline mode, and will update your sdcard from the Linux machine.

Otherwise, on a Windows computer, you will see the "/boot" partition appear as the contents of SD card.
You can download the latest GPU firmware version [https://github.com/raspberrypi/firmware/blob/master/boot/start.elf here].
Click on '''view raw''', then save it, and put the new start.elf file on the sdcard replacing the existing one. Similarly, the latest kernel is [https://github.com/raspberrypi/firmware/tree/master/boot/kernel.img here].
After updating these files you should be able to boot. You still need to run rpi-update to update the kernel modules (in /lib/modules) and the GPU libraries (in /opt/vc).

=== Choosing the right ARM/GPU memory split ===
There is a choice of how the 256M/512M of RAM is divided between the ARM and GPU:
gpu_mem=16 : 16M GPU, 240M/496M ARM split : Maximum ARM memory. Good for ARM desktop use. No accelerated video or 3D possible.
gpu_mem=64 : 64M GPU, 192M/448M ARM split : Reasonable ARM memory. Simple video (omxplayer) or 3D (quake) is possible. This is the default.
gpu_mem=128 : 128M GPU, 128M/384M ARM split : Use this for heavy 3D work, or 3D plus video. Needed for XBMC.

To switch, edit the gpu_mem= setting in your config.txt and reboot.

Note: other amounts are also possible, but setting gpu_mem=32 is usually the wrong choice. gpu_mem=16 is almost always a better choice.

Also note that before the release of the 51MB PI a different method was used based on splitting the 256MB RAM in a part for the CPU and GPU. As this noting system was causing trouble if the amount of RAM was not always the same. the above new method was adapted.

Make sure your editor doesn't change the first letter of the line into an uppercase letter, as some editors do. The entry is case sensitive.

== SD cards ==

* If you have problems, check you have latest firmware version (described above)
* Some SD cards do not work on the R-Pi, so check the [[RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#SD_cards|list of known SD cards]].
* If you are having problems setting up your SD card you might want to start by erasing it completely - especially if it has been used elsewhere and still contains data / partitions.
** Windows and Mac users can download a formatting tool from the SD Association: https://www.sdcard.org/downloads/formatter_3/
* Reformatting cards is also easy to do in a digital camera.
* After writing the image to the SD card, verify that you can see the boot partition when you insert the SD card into your computer. The partition should contain a number of files, including ''start.elf'' and ''kernel.img''. If you do not see these files on the SD card, you have made an error writing the image file.
* If you are manually preparing your SD card on Linux or Mac OS using the ''dd'' command, this operation will completely erase any existing data and partitions. Make sure you write to the whole card (e.g. <tt>/dev/sdd</tt>) and not to an existing partition (e.g. <tt>/dev/sdd1</tt>).
* If you have an sdcard that doesn't work with latest firmware, head over [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=63&t=6093 here].
* If you put the SD card into your PC in an attempt to write the R-Pi operating system onto it, and the PC tells you the card is write-protected, even with the write-protect tab in the correct, forward position, then you may have a faulty SD-card rewriter. There's a common fault with many SD-card rewriters - The write-protect tab is detected by a very thin, narrow metal strip, that is part of a switch. When the card is inserted, the write-protect tab is supposed to push the strip and make/break the contact, as needed. Unfortunately, these strips have a habit of getting stuck, because they are mounted in a thin plastic channel, and only need to be deformed slightly sideways to get jammed.
Luckily, if you have this problem, most built-in card readers are easy to pull apart and repair; some users have even reported succesfully unjamming the switch with a blast of compressed air from a can into the SD-card slot without having to dismantle anything.
You may also be able to temporarily get round the problem by putting the write-protect tab in a half-way position - this pushes on a different part of the strip and may break the contact - it's worth trying a few, slightly different positions. You could also use a USB-SD card adaptor, which are cheap to buy.

==Networking==

===Ethernet connection is lost when a USB device is plugged in===
This is often caused by inadequate power. Use a good power supply and a good power cable. Some cheap cables that work with a cell phone, cannot fully power the R-Pi. Some USB devices require a lot of power (>100 mA), so they must be used with a powered USB hub. Some cheap USB hubs suck power from the Raspberry Pi even if a USB power supply is connected. (More often than not, however, the reverse is true with cheap hubs—the Pi draws just enough power backwards from the powered hub to unsuccessfully attempt booting.)

There is an ongoing issue with the Ethernet connection being lost when low-speed devices, such as mice or keyboards are connected via a powered USB hub. The simplest way to solve this is to connect your mouse and keyboard directly into the 2 USB ports on the R-Pi (assuming they draw less than 100 mA apiece).

===Ethernet connects at 10M instead of 100M===
The LED in the corner of the board labelled "10M" is mislabeled. When that LED is on, the R-Pi is actually connected at 100 Mbps. You can confirm the true transfer rate using a network benchmark such as iperf. You can also read the current network speed with
cat /sys/class/net/eth0/speed

===Cannot ssh in to Pi===

In the Debian image, ssh is disabled by default. Boot commands are taken from /boot/boot.rc if that file present. There is an example file named '''boot_enable_ssh.rc''' that enables ssh. So:

sudo mv /boot/boot_enable_ssh.rc /boot/boot.rc

and reboot should enable ssh. (password as below)

===Network/USB chip gets too hot to touch===

This is normal. In open air at 24 C, the LAN9512 Ethernet/USB chip reaches about 52 C after some time. This is too hot to touch for more than a few seconds, but it is not unusually hot for the chip.

The
[http://www.smsc.com/media/Downloads_Public/Data_Sheets/9512.pdf LAN9512 data sheet] in Table 4.1 on p.40 says it comes in two versions, rated for operation at an ambient temperature in still air (Ta) of 70 C (commercial) or 85 C (industrial). It uses 763 mW at 3.3V with maximum traffic on 100baseT and both USB ports (Table 4.3.4, p. 42).

There is a study of RasPi heat profiles by "Remy" at [http://www.geektopia.es/es/technology/2012/06/22/articulos/se-calienta-el-ordenador-raspberry-pi-estudio-de-sus-temperaturas-en-funcionamiento.html ¿Se calienta el ordenador Raspberry Pi? Estudio de sus temperaturas en funcionamiento] (''Is the Raspberry Pi computer getting hot? A study of its operational temperature.'') The Spanish article has numerous color temperature images of RasPi in various operational modes, with the highest LAN9512 case temperature measured as 64.5 C.

===Networking no longer works when changing SD card between two Raspberry Pis===

In some distributions, /etc/udev/rules.d/70-persistent-net.rules remembers which MAC address is associated with eth0, so each new device will be assigned as a different interface (eth1, eth2, etc.) due to the different MAC addresses. Editing /etc/udev/rules.d/70-persistent-net.rules to remove the invalid rules and rebooting may help fix the problem.

===Crashes occur with high network load===

The USB driver allocates memory from the kernel, and when traffic is very high (e.g. when using torrents/newsgroup downloads) this memory can be exhausted causing crashes/hangs. You should have a line like:

vm.min_free_kbytes = 8192

in /etc/sysctl.conf. Try increasing that number to 16384 (or higher). If that doesn't work, try adding to /boot/cmdline.txt

smsc95xx.turbo_mode=N

which will reduce network throughput, but has improved stability issues for some.

===Network connection fails when a Graphical User Interface is being used===

The network connection may fail when the command startx is used to enter a Graphical User Interface. This is caused by a bug in the USB driver related to certain types of USB mouse.

As of 1 September 2012, this fault is fixed in the latest firmware. To load the latest firmware, see
[http://elinux.org/R-Pi_Troubleshooting#Updating_firmware http://elinux.org/R-Pi_Troubleshooting#Updating_firmware]

==Passwords==
===I do not know the password to login===
Please check the page [http://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads http://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads] for the correct username and password for each image.

Here are the most common username/password combinations:
*Debian after Feb 2012: pi/raspberry
*Debian 17 Feb 2012: pi/suse
*Arch: root/root
*Bodhi: pi/bodhilinux

===Some programs refuse to accept my password===
While using Debian, some programs may ask for your password but refuse to accept a valid password.

This is a fault in old Debian images previous to September 2012. If you are using an image with this fault, upgrade to a more modern image or enter the following command on the command line.
gconftool-2 --type bool --set /apps/gksu/sudo-mode true
Please enter this command carefully, the spaces are important. The command should be accepted without any response or errors.

===I don't know the root password===

There is no root password set by default on Debian. You are expected to do everything through sudo. You can set one with "sudo passwd root" - just make sure you know what you are doing with a root account.

==Sound==
===Sound does not work with an HDMI monitor===
This is caused by some computer monitors which select DVI mode even if an HDMI cable is connected. This fix may be necessary even if other HDMI devices work perfectly on the same monitor (or TV)!

Edit the configuration file - see the instructions at [[R-Pi_ConfigurationFile]].

Add the following line to the configuration file:
hdmi_drive=2

This will force it to select HDMI mode.

'''More reasons why sound does not work with an HDMI monitor'''

With an HDMI connection it might be possible to hear:
./hello_audio.bin 1
but not:
aplay /usr/share/sounds/alsa/Front_Center.wav

Firstly, it seems that some HD TVs mute audible sound output when there is no digital input, and slowly fade the sound up and down at the start and end of digital input. This means that short duration sounds will not be heard. A work around is to play longer duration wav files.

Secondly, it seems that some HD TVs mute audible sound output when there is only one channel of digital input. So, as the file Front_Center.wav is mono, it might not be heard. ALSA aplay uses the file information header to configure its digital output. And the aplay -c 2 option does not over-ride the settings aplay picks up from the file information header. So, if your HD TV doesn't accept just one channel of digital input, you cannot use aplay to hear a mono wav file. However, with the command speaker-test, the -c2 option does work, and sets 2 channels in the digital stream. So speaker-test can be used to hear the file Front_Center.wav in either the left or right speaker using the -s option 1 or 2.
For example
Speaker-test -c 2 -s 1 -t wav -W /usr/share/sounds/alsa -w Front_Center.wav
should be heard on the left speaker. But note that the command speaker-test seems only to like mono wav files, and seems not to play stereo wav files.

The command aplay plays 2 channel stereo wav files in stereo sound without problem (provided they last longer than the time it takes the TV to unmute and remute). A helpful example I found is the stereo file LRMonoPhase4.wav at the Kozco web site [http://www.kozco.com/tech/soundtests.html]

===Sound does not work at all, or in some applications===
In Debian Squeeze, sound is disabled by default because the ALSA sound driver is still "alpha" (not fully tested) on the R-Pi. To try out sound, from the command prompt ''before'' "startx", type

sudo apt-get install alsa-utils
sudo modprobe snd_bcm2835

On Debian Wheezy, snd_bm2835 is enabled, by default, do that step is not necessary. Next try:

sudo aplay /usr/share/sounds/alsa/Front_Center.wav

By default output will be automatic (hdmi if hdmi supports audio, otherwise analogue). You can force it with:

sudo amixer cset numid=3 <n>

where n is 0=auto, 1=headphones, 2=hdmi.

With recent firmware, you can build hello_audio with:
cd /opt/vc/src/hello_pi/
./rebuild.sh
cd hello_audio

With older firmware
cd /opt/vc/src/hello_pi/hello_audio
make

to test analogue output:
./hello_audio.bin
and:
./hello_audio.bin 1
to test HDMI.

Also note that you may have to add your user to the 'audio' group to get permission to access the sound card.

==Display==
===Startx fails to start===
If you just get errors instead of a desktop when typing
startx
you may be out of storage space on the SD card. By default there are only a few hundred MB free in the 2 GB main partition, which can quickly fill up if you download files. Make sure there is some space free (gparted can expand a partition, if the SD card is > 2GB). Also, installing some software may incorrectly create or modify a .Xauthority file in your home directory, causing startx to fail, according to [http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/startx-fails-worked-yesterday this thread]. Temporarily renaming, moving, or deleting that file may fix the problem.

===Screen is the wrong color===
Check and see if the DVI cable is screwed in properly. If that doesn't work then try [[#Interference_visible_on_a_HDMI_or_DVI_monitor|this]] section.

===Video does not play or plays very slowly===
The only hardware-accelerated video player is in the [http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/general-discussion/openelec-meets-raspberry-pi-part-1-xbmc XBMC distribution] and its command line variant [[omxplayer]]. H264 is the only hardware-accelerated codec, for playback. No hardware encoding is supported. Additional codecs were not purchased as licensing fees would have increased the R-Pi's price.

===Can only get 800x480 resolution in LXDE (Arch linux)===
Known issue with distro package as of 17th April 2012 - there's some missing boot config information. Creating a suitable cmdline.txt fixes it - type the following at the Raspberry Pi command line:

<pre>
sudo echo "dwc_otg.lpm_enable=0 console=ttyAMA0,115200 kgdboc=ttyAMA0,115200 root=/dev/mmcblk0p2 rootfstype=ext3 rootwait" >/boot/cmdline.txt
</pre>

===Big black borders around small image on HD monitors===

Out of the box, R-Pi graphics don't necessarily fill the whole screen. This is due to something called "Underscan", and it can be fixed easily.

Note: the best solution is to disable overscan in display menu options (it may be called "just scan", "screen fit", "HD size", "full pixel", "unscaled", "dot by dot", "native" or "1:1"), then use the disable_overscan=1 option.

Edit the configuration file, see the instructions at [[R-Pi_ConfigurationFile]].

Add the following lines to the configuration file...

If your display has no overscan:

<pre>

disable_overscan=1

</pre>

or if your display has some overscan:

<pre>

overscan_left=-20

overscan_right=-20

overscan_top=-20

overscan_bottom=-20

</pre>

Making the R-Pi graphics fill the screen is a matter of experimenting with the numbers you put in the config.txt file. Change the numbers – try jumps of 5 or 10 at a time. Bigger negative numbers reduce the black borders (so -40 means less black border than -20). The numbers do not all have to be the same; you can use this feature to centre the display on the screen.

===Writing spills off the screen on HD monitors===

Out of the box, R-Pi graphics may be larger than the 1080p (ie Full HD) screen. This is due to something called "Overscan", and it can be fixed easily by creating a simple text file on the R-Pi SD card by using Notepad on your PC.

Follow the instructions in the section "Big black borders around small image on HD monitors", but use positive numbers for the overscan settings, for example
<pre>

overscan_left=20

overscan_right=20

overscan_top=20

overscan_bottom=20

</pre>

===Interference visible on a HDMI or DVI monitor===
This may be caused by loss of signal on long video cables. The signal level may be increased by changing a configuration parameter.

[[File:RPi_HDMI_interference.jpg|600px]]

Edit the configuration file, see the instructions at [[R-Pi_ConfigurationFile]].

Add the following line to the configuration file
config_hdmi_boost=4

You may experiment with different values of config_hdmi_boost. Value 1 is used for very short cables, value 7 is used for very long cables. At your own risk, you can go up to 11, but risk frying a sensitive monitor.

Note that various adapters, such as HDMI-to-DVI, can also cause power loss and therefore require high values of config_hdmi_boost even with short cables.

This option can also help when there is no display output at all, the display periodically blanks, or colours are wrong/inverted.

This symptom can also be caused by RasPi +5V (measured from TP1 to TP2) falling too low. See [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems|Troubleshooting Power Problems]].

===No HDMI output at all===
First make sure the display is powered on and switched to the right input before booting Pi.

If you have the [http://www.raspberrypi.org/archives/1435 Wheezy] image (recommended) then try
hdmi_safe=1

Otherwise, try adding the following line to the configuration file (similar to interference case above)
config_hdmi_boost=4

Your monitor/cable may not be asserting the hotplug signal. You can override this with:
hdmi_force_hotplug=1

Also [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=7513 try] the following video options:
hdmi_group=2
hdmi_mode=4
which resolved an issue with DVI monitor reporting "input signal out of range"

As a last resort, try deleting (rename to keep backup) config.txt from the SD card.

Also check that the RasPi +5V voltage (measured from TP1 to TP2) is in the correct range. One user found that his DVI-D monitor blanked out when +5V was too low. See [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems|Troubleshooting Power Problems]].

Here's a rare cause: A standard HDMI cable has five individual ground wires plus a shield. Some cheap HDMI cables do not implement the individual grounds and just have a common foil shield that's connected to the HDMI plug shells at both ends. This works OK in most HDMI applications since most HDMI sources (like RasPi) and most monitors connect the shells to circuit ground. However, some HDMI or DVI monitors may requires individual ground lines. You can tell if an HDMI cable implements the individual grounds by checking for continuity using an Ohmmeter or multimeter. You can find the HDMI pinout for full-size connectors at [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI Wikipedia].

===Composite displays no image===
The output display will default to HDMI if a HDMI display is connected, and composite if not. Make sure there isn't a HDMI cable connected when you want to use composite output.

Also, check that your TV is set to the correct input, normally marked "AV". If your TV has multiple AV inputs, try all of the inputs, normally by pressing a button marked "AV" or "Input" or "Source" or "->O" on the remote control.

===Composite displays only black and white image===
The composite display defaults to NTSC (American) output. Most TVs will show an image with that, but older PAL (European) televisions may display only back and white or no image. To fix this:

Edit the configuration file, see the instructions at [[R-Pi_ConfigurationFile]].

Add the following line to the configuration file
sdtv_mode=2

(You can try other values: 0 is NTSC, 1 is Japanese NTSC, 2 is PAL, 3 is Brazilian PAL)

===HDMI -> VGA adapters===
Some good information can be found here:
* [[RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#HDMI-.3EVGA_converter_boxes]]
* [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=9819 (RPi forum) Serious HDMI Problems. What's that smell? Burning Raspberry!]

A commonly used adapter from Ebay: gallery with detailed images & steps of a modification to use external power source: [http://imgur.com/a/sLogs/all HERE] --''by [[User:Pinoccio|Pinoccio]]''

==GPIO==
Remember that the GPIO pins are 3.3V logic level only, and are NOT 5V tolerant.

If you momentarily shorted the two end GPIO pins together (+3.3V and +5V), or a supply pin to ground, and the Pi appears to be dead, don't panic. The input polyfuse may have tripped. It is self-resetting after it cools down and the polymer re-crystallizes, which can take several hours. Set the Pi aside and try again later.

The GPIO pins connect directly into the core of the ARM processer, and are static-sensitive, so you should avoid touching the pins wherever possible. If you are carrying a static charge, for example by taking off an acrylic pullover, or walking across a nylon carpet, touching the GPIO pins could destroy your R-Pi, so always earth yourself before touching the pins or anything connected to them.

==General==
===The time is incorrect===
If the clock is off by a series of hours, in the command line type:
sudo dpkg-reconfigure tzdata

The R-Pi has no real-time clock, so unless it can access a timeserver over the network at boot, or time is manually entered by the user, the time/date will restart counting from the last logged time in the previous session.

===A part broke off===

The silver cylinder near the microUSB power input is a 220 uF capacitor ("C6" on schematic). It sticks up and due to the small surface-mount pads, it is easy to break off; several people have done so. This is a power supply filter capacitor which reduces any noise and spikes on the input +5V power. If you like, you can solder it back on, or just leave it off. If you do solder it back on, take care to observe the correct polarity with the black stripe towards the board edge. This part, C6 is a "just in case" component which is good design practice to include, but [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4926| as it turns out] most power supplies still work OK without this part installed. This part is also [http://elinux.org/RPi_Hardware#Capacitor_C6 discussed here].

===Unable to install new software===
When trying to install a software package (using the command sudo apt-get install xxxx) you may see the error
Package yyyy is not available
This means that your software list is out of date. Before attempting to install software, you should always make sure that you are using the latest software list by using the command
sudo apt-get update

==Troubleshooting power problems==

If you think you have a problem with your power supply, it is a good idea to check the actual voltage
on the Raspberry Pi circuit board. Two test points labelled TP1 and TP2 are provided on the circuit board
to facilitate voltage measurements.

Use a multimeter which is set to the range 20 volts DC (or 20v =). You should see a voltage between 4.75 and 5.25 volts. Anything outside this range indicates that you have a problem with your power supply or your power cable.

If you have not used a multimeter before, see these [[http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/202 basic instructions]]

Note: Even if the multimeter shows the correct voltage, you may have some power supply problems. A multimeter only displays the average voltage. If there are very short-lived dips or spikes in the voltage, these will not be shown by the multimeter. It is best to measure voltage when Pi is busy.

If your voltage is low, it could be:
* The power supply produces too low a voltage
* The power supply cannot supply enough current, which results in a voltage drop. Make sure Power supply is labelled as at least 700mA. (Some cheap power supplies don't deliver what is labelled).
* The Micro USB power cable is low quality. Some Micro USB cables have very thin conductors, resulting in enough voltage drop for RasPi to fail even if the power supply itself is fine. For details, see [[On_the_RPi_usb_power_cable]].
* Attached USB devices want too much power. The Pi is only designed for up to 100mA USB devices. A USB device wanting more that that will cause a voltage drop.
Note: keyboards with LCD displays, built in USB hubs, backlights, etc are likely to be problematic. Try to use a basic one. Wifi dongles are also unlikely to work when directly connected. Connect high powered USB devices to a powered USB hub.

Try booting without HDMI, ethernet or USB deviced plugged in, and see if the voltage improves.
See also: [[RPi_Hardware#Power_Supply_Problems| Power Supply Problems]]

[[File:RPI_Test_Points.JPG|400px]] [[File:Voltmeter.JPG|250px]]

If you prefer to make your own PSU - see: [[RPi_5V_PSU_construction| Power Supply construction - HowTo]]

==Hardware versions/revisions==
Several different boards have been found probably from different assembly lines, and the following tables try to help you identify your board for better troubleshooting.

Look for the date of manufacturing printed with the year and week. In this example year (2012) and week (18th):[[File:Date_of_manufacturing.jpg|200px|thumb|right]]

For what we can see for model B boards there are mainly two versions that differ on the type RAM used, Samsung (S) and Hynix (H).

For '''Board ver'''. we used: <model><RAM Maker><production date> (ex.: BS1218 is "Model B, Samsung RAM, 18th week of 2012")

Model A:
{| border="1" class="wikitable"
|-
! Board
ver.
! RAM
Chip
! USB
Chip
! Front
! Back
|-
|
|
|
|
|
|}

Model B:
{| border="1" class="wikitable"
|-
! Board
ver.
! RAM
Chip
! USB
Chip
! Front
! Back
|-
| BS12xx
| Samsung
| SMSC
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_A-Front.JPG|200px|thumb|center]]
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_A-Back.JPG|200px|thumb|center]]
|-
| BH12xx
| Hynix
| SMSC
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_B-Front.JPG|200px|thumb|center]]
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_B-Back.JPG|200px|thumb|center]]
|}

<big>See a '''complete list''' and user feedback here: [[RaspberryPi Boards]]</big>

=References=
<references/>

{{Template:Raspberry Pi}}

[[Category:RaspberryPi]]

RPi VerifiedPeripherals

2012-11-09T16:14:49Z

Pinoccio: /* HDMI->VGA converter boxes */ hdmi-2-vga adapter modification - gallery

[[Category: Linux]]
[[Category: ARM Development Boards]]
[[Category: Broadcom]]
[[Category: Development Boards]]
[[Category: RaspberryPi]]
[[Category: Education]]
{{Template: RPi_Hardware}}

'''A note about this page: For USB devices, please specify if they required a powered hub'''
==Notes==

19-Apr-2012: Now that the Model B board is shipping, details added should relate to this board and the [http://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads default Debian distribution] unless stated otherwise. A suggested suffix markup scheme is as follows:

* (A) - Relates to model A production board
* (B) - Relates to model B production board
* (!) - Information from alpha and beta board days -- beta board verified peripherals should still apply to production boards for the most part, but the alpha board is fairly different
* No markup - relates to all production boards

''Discuss: [http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/?mingleforumaction=viewtopic&t=247 http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/?mingleforumaction=viewtopic&t=247]''

If you are adding to a product list it would help clarity if entries are kept/added in alphabetical order.

==Power Usage Notes==
{{Warning|Adding peripherals may increase the loading on the power supply to your board and this, in turn, may affect the voltage presented to the RPi. If the RPi's supply voltage falls below a certain value (anecdotally stated as around 4.75V), or it begins to fluctuate, your setup may become unstable. There is a [http://elinux.org/RPi_Hardware#Power Wiki section about this issue] which is worth a read.}}

'''Model B Hardware Revisions and USB Power limits'''
'''Hardware Revision 1.0'''
The original Model B board had current limiting polyfuses which limited the power output of each USB port to approximatly 100mA. USB devices using more than 100mA had to be connected via a powered hub. The PI's PSU was chosen with a power budget of 700mA of which 200mA were assigned to the USB ports, so the Raspberry Pi's (poly)fuses were designed only for devices up to 100mA, and typical 140mA polyfuses will have as much as 0.6 volt across them when drawing currents near the 100mA limit. As a consequence the USB ports are only directly suitable for "single current unit" USB devices which, according to USB specifications, are designed to work with just 4.4 Volt. Not only do non single current unit devices draw more current (causing greater Voltage drops, and greater stress on the fuses), they also might require 4.75 Volt to work.

'''Model B Hardware Revision 2.0 and Revision 1.0 with ECN0001 change'''
This had the polyfuses removed, removing the 100mA current limitation for each USB port (but leaving the main fuse F3 intact). Users should still ensure their power supply can power the RPi and the USB peripherals. Revision 2.0 was released in August 2012.

==Linux Driver Issues==
Shortly after the Raspberry Pi was released it was it was confirmed that there were a number of issues with the Linux USB driver for the SMSC95xx chip. These included problems with USB 1.x peripherals that use split transactions, a fixed number of channels (causing problems with Kinect) and the way the ARM processor handles the SMSC95xx interrupts. [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=12097&start=76] [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=5249&start=44]
A large number of fixes were included in the 2012-08-19-wheezy-raspbian Linux image.

== Powered USB Hubs ==
A number of low-cost powered USB hubs are known to have caused problems. Members of the Raspberry Pi forums have reported low power or no power at all in some cases. The following is a list of specific Powered USB Hubs which appear to be fault-free. Please note that these do not take into account powering the Raspberry Pi from the hub, in addition to its peripherals.

If you use a powered hub and PI PSU together consider powering them from the same power bar with switch, so you can turn them on simultaneously., especially if the HUB tries to feed the PI through their interconnect cable, due to the 100mA limiting fuse in the PI the PI will be partially powered which may cause problems (unwanted writes to the SD card).

===Working USB Hubs===
*'''Acme'''
** USB 2.0 hub 4 port ([http://www.acme.eu/en-us/product/019188 ACME]) Based on NEC μPD720114 USB2.0 Hub Controller USB ID 0409:005a '''NOTE!''' It is bus-powered hub, but very cheap and small and works after a small modding: on usb-hub board you have 4 holes: V, D+, D- and GND. Connect GND, D+ and D- to the RasPI, and additionally connect GND and +5v from power supply to the same holes on usb-hub GND and V. Now there is common contacts: GND, D+ and D- between RasPI and hub needed to work, and additional power for USB devices, connected to the hub. Tested on my RasPI.
*'''Belkin'''
** F4U040 4-Port Ultra-Slim Desktop hub (powered 5v, 2.6A, lsusb lists as Genesys Logic 05e3:0608)
** F5U224 4 port powered USB hub
** F5U231/F5U234 Hi-speed USB 2.0 Tertrahub - 4 port powered USB hub (verified.. able to power Raspberry Pi using micro USB directly from hub)
** F5U237 7 Port powered USB 2.0 5V 3.8A (5 back port 2 top ports)
** F5U259-ME USB 2.0 7-Port Hub (Powered, able to apply power to Raspberry Pi via micro USB from this hub at same time)
** F5U403 USB 2.-0 4 Port Hub (Powered, suspect see F5U404 in non-working, didn't test power the RPi from hub.)
** F5U700 USB 2.0 7-Port Hub (Powered, able to power Raspberry Pi via micro USB directly from hub)
** F5U706ea/uk 2-in-1 Hub (USB 2.0, powered, 7-port)
** F5U706701PerBlk 7-in-1 Hub (USB 2.0, powered 5V 2.5A , 7-port)
** F4U039qukAPL 7 port Ultra-Slim Desktop Hub (internally two Genesys Logic 05e3:0608 devices - powering RPi from port furthest away from power supply. Toshiba Stor.E 1TB must be powered from ports closest to the power supply to avoid errors in dmesg. Flash drives seem fine on ports away from the power supply.)
*'''Benq'''
** E2220HD LCD Monitor with 4 port USB Hub. Able to power the Pi and no backfeed of power from the monitor to the Pi via the interconnect. Just works.
*'''Biltema'''
** 23-924 4-port powered USB 2.0 Hub (2.0A) Able to power Raspberry Pi via USB port
*'''C3 Tech'''
** C3 Tech 7-port powered hub with PSU 5V, 2.5A. Working without problems,no backpower. USB ID 1a40:0201 Terminus Technology Inc. Hub (B)
*'''CyberPower'''
** [http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817804002] CP-H720P 7-port powered hub with 3.6A adapter. Internally, a NEC Corp 0409:0050 device. Works perfectly with Model B, regardless of whether the RPi is being powered by the hub or externally. '''WARNING''': This device seems to have been replaced with one based on dual 05e3:0608 Genesys Logic, Inc. USB-2.0 4-Port HUB internally
*'''Dell'''
** Dell 2001FP monitor has 4 USB ports and acts as a powered hub.
** Dell SP2309W monitor has 4 USB ports and acts as a powered hub.
** Dell 2407FWP monitor has 4 USB ports and acts as a powered hub. Additionally, the 6-in-1 Card Reader part of the monitor works as well, though it will not read SDXC Cards.
** Dell U3011 monitor has 4 USB ports and acts as a powered hub. Additionally, the Card Reader part of the monitor works as well, and is compatible with 128GB SDXC Lexar Brand Cards
*'''DELTACO'''
** [https://www.deltaco.se/products/items/itemid/(UH-715)/index.aspx UH-715 Rev 2] 7-port powered hub with 2A adapter.
*'''DYNEX'''
** 7port hub idVendor=0409, idProduct=0050 works
*'''D-Link'''
** [http://www.amazon.com/D-Link-DUB-H7-High-Speed-7-Port/dp/B00008VFAF] 7-Port USB Hub DUB-H7 (See note below - doesn't work for all, apparently). Working model marked BUBH7A....A5. Worked with Debian on production B model, for keyboard, mouse, and thumb drives, also worked with ArchLinux, didn't work with Bodhi Linux immediately thereafter. Recent model did not work with default raspbian firmware (3.1.9+ #272); updated firmware with rpi-update (to 3.2.27+ #66), now seems to work perfectly.
** [http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817111131] 4-Port USB Hub DUB-H4 Worked on Debian with keyboard, mouse, and thumb drive. Also tested with Raspbmc and external HD (powered through USB). While the hub has a charging port, which should be able to provide power enough to the RasPi (1.2 A), connecting the RasPi here doesn't work, as it seems the power is cut during boot (At least with hub hardware rev. C1). While it does boot from any of the other ports, it shouldn't be used it doesn't provide enough power (Standard 500 mA per port. Measuring at P1-P2 on the RasPi: ~4.45 V).
*'''Digicom'''
** [http://www.digicom.it/digisit/prodotti.nsf/itprodottiidx/MiniHubUsb204P#] MiniHUB 4-Port USB 2.0 with PSU 5V - 2A .
*'''Digitus'''
** 7-port USB2.0 Powered Hub. Model DA-70226.
*'''Eminent'''
** [http://www.eminent-online.com/en/product/22/em1102-4-port-usb-hub---black.html] EM1102 4 Port USB 2.0 Hub with 1A power adapter. It's able to power the RPi, external HDD and other peripherals.
** [http://www.eminent-online.com/en/product/27/7-port-usb-2-0-hub.html] EM1107 7 Port USB 2.0 Hub with 2A power adapter. It's able to power the RPi, external HDD and other peripherals.
* '''GearHead'''
** [http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004OBZ088/] GearHead 4 Port Hub with Energy Saving Power Switch (5V, 1A)
*'''Gembird'''
** Gembird UHS 242 4-port USB 2.0 Hub 1.8 Amps
* '''Genesys Logic (sold at Fry's)'''
** Genesys Logic 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub (ID 05e3:0608) (Other brands include Gigaware and Belkin, same ID shows up in lsusb)
** Genesys Logic 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub (ID 05e3:0606) (Other brands include i-Rocks, same ID shows up in lsusb)
* '''Hama'''
** Hama 4-way USB 2.0 Hub
*'''HP'''
** HP ZR2240w 21.5" Monitor with built in 2-Port USB Hub (B)
*'''Laser'''
** "7 port USB hub with AC adapter Version 2.0". 5V 1A (found at Harvey Norman Australia for $24.95 and Australia Post Shops for $9.95). You can power the PI by connecting both the main USB connector to the PI USB port, '''and''' from a spare USB port back to the power micro USB socket. If you don't do both, boot-loops are likely to occur.
*'''Logik'''
** [http://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/logik-lp4hub10-4-port-powered-usb-hub-04979038-pdt.html] LP4HUB10 4-Port USB Hub. '''Throws errors when used with Fedora remix 14'''
** Logik L4THUB10 4 Port powered hub works fine under raspbian/wheezy/model B. Captive usb cable, 2A power supply, convenient single top mounted usb socket. Unlike my last hub, will power wifi!
*'''LogiLink'''
** UA0085 USB 2.0 Hub, 4-Port with PSU 5V, 2A
** UA0091 USB 3.0 Hub, 4-Port with PSU 5V, 4A. Connected with USB2.0 cable. 1A per port, able to support USB HDD drives and other power hungry devices. Tested with kernel 3.1.9-cutdown, Wheezy.
** UA0096 USB 2.0 Hub, 10-Port with PSU 5V, 3.5A (Not suitable for powering RPi because it doesn't work unless there is working USB input present even with PSU plugged in.)
** UA0160 USB 2.0 Hub, 4-Port with PSU 5V, 2A. Able to power the RPi, keyboard, mouse and LogiLink UA0144 USB ethernet adapter. (More testing to come.)
* '''Macally'''
** [http://www.macally.com/EN/?page_id=2312] Hi-Speed 7-Port USB 2.0 Powered Micro HUB, AC Powered. Includes a 2000mA wall-wart (US style)
* '''Manhattan'''
** [http://manhattan-products.com/en-US/products/6500-hi-speed-usb-2-0-micro-hub] (#160612) Hi-Speed USB 2.0 Micro HUB, AC Powered (identifies as ID 05e3:0608 Genesys Logic) Includes a 1000mA wall-wart (US style)
** [http://manhattan-products.com/en-US/products/9583-mondohub] (#161718) MondoHub 28 Port USB 3.0 & USB 2.0 HUB (24 USB 2 Ports @500ma each) + (4 USB 3.0 Ports @900ma each) Power Switches on each port, AC Powered and Includes a 5V 4A wall-wart (US style)
*'''Newlink'''
** NLUSB2-224P 4 port USB 2.0 Mini hub with PSU 5V 1A
** NLUSB2-222P 4 port USB 2.0 Hub with 5V 2A PSU (Available From [https://www.modmypi.com/shop/raspberry-pi-accessories/New-Link-4-Port-USB-Hub-(USB-2.0-with-Mains-Adaptor) | ModMyPi])
*'''Nilox'''
** Nilox USB 2.0 4port HUB model HUB4USB2AC with PSU 5V 1.0A
* '''Plugable'''
** [http://plugable.com/products/USB2-HUB4BC/] USB2-HUB4BC 4 Port USB 2.0 Hub with BC 1.1 Fast Charging. 5V 2.5A power supply. Powering Pi via microUSB from a hub port. USB Audio peripheral tested and working.
* '''Pluscom'''
** Pluscom 7 Port USB 2.0 Hub Model U7PH-3A with 3Amp PSU. USB ID 1a40:0101. Powering Pi via microUSB from a hub port. Internally two 4 Port switches linked. Leaks power back up USB data cable to Pi but not really a problem when powering Pi at the same time.
*'''Satechi'''
** ST-UH12P 12 port powered hub with 2 Control Switches. Also works while powering the Pi.
*'''Staples (Business Depot) (Bureau EN GROS)'''
** Staples 4-port hub Item 607477-CA
*'''StarTech.com'''
** StarTech.com 7-port Compact USB 2.0 Hub (ST7202USB). Comes with 5v 2A supply. Shows in lsusb as two Genesys Logic, Inc. USB-2.0 4-Port HUBs (05e3:0608). Back powers Pi (Just, Voltage across TP1 & TP2 is a little low when powered from this hub).
*'''SumVision'''
** Sumvision Slim 4 Port High Speed USB 2.0 HUB with PSU 5V 1.0A (from [http://www.7dayshop.com/catalog/account_history_info.php?page=1&order_id=5130107 | 7dayshop ])
*'''Sitecom'''
** CN-032 4 Port USB 2.0 Pocket Hub. Works for powering the Pi, an USB WLAN Adapter, wireless Kbd+Mouse. Using an 2500 mA Voltcraft
** CN-060 4 Port USB 2.0 Hub powered with AC Adapter (1A). Powering Pi via microUSB from a hub port.
*'''Sweex'''
** US014 4 Port USB 2.0 Hub
*'''Targus'''
** ACH81xx 7-port powered hub. 5V 3A power supply, with 2 high power ports. (possible conflicting behaviour with USB keyboard / Wifi Dongles)
** ACH63EU 4-port. Using a 5V 2A power supply, which isn't supplied with the hub, it is able to power the PI as well.
*'''The Pi Hut'''
** 7 Port USB Hub (from [http://thepihut.com/products/7-port-usb-hub-for-the-raspberry-pi The Pi Hut's Raspberry Pi Store])
*'''Trendnet'''
** [http://www.trendnet.com/products/proddetail.asp?prod=130_TU2-700&cat=49] TU2-700 7 Port Powered USB 2.0 Hub with AC Adapter (5V 2A)
*'''Tripp-Lite'''
** [http://www.tripplite.com/en/products/model.cfm?txtModelID=3167] U222-007-R 7 Port Powered USB 2.0 Hub with AC Adapter (5V 2.5A) Powering RPi from Hub works
*'''Ultron'''
** [http://www.ultron.de/v1/produktansicht.php?artnr=67072&kid=bfa8340c4e245...&l=en&WGType=Neue+USB-HUBS] UHN-710 7-port powered hub with PSU 5V, 3A. USB ID 1a40:0201.
*'''VANTEC'''
** 4 Port USB 2.0 Powered Hub Model: UGT-MH304. 5V 2A AC/DC adapter. Go 2.0 Mini hub.
*'''Z-TEK'''
** Z-TEK 7-port powered hub with PSU 5V, 4A. USB ID 1a40:0201.
*"Unknown"
** 10(7-4) port hub idVendor=1a40, idProduct=0201 / idVendor=1a40, idProduct=0101 works

===Problem USB Hubs===

Please check known workarounds [http://elinux.org/Rpi_USB_check-list here] before adding to the list

*'''Addon'''
** 7-Port Powered Hub - labelled ADDUH070P - Gives constant Eth0 errors on boot.
*'''Belkin'''
** 7-Port Powered Mobile Hub - device labelled F4U018, packaging labelled F5U701. lsusb reveals it to be two Genesys Logic 4-port hubs based on the GL850G chipset (vendor: 0x05e3 product: 0x0608) ganged together. Yields a lot of "handle_hc_chhltd_intr_dma:: XactErr without NYET/NAK/ACK" errors and device resets in /var/log/messages. Low speed devices such as keyboards work OK, wifi/mass storage is unreliable or broken. -- No error messages with the latest kernel, but still unstable with mass storage devices. Also, leaks current back to the Pi (can be fixed by overtaping GND and +5V pinouts)
** F4U022 7-Port powered USB hub (powered 5v, 2.6A), same as F4U018
** 7-Port Powered Hub - device labled F5U237 Rev.3 - ID 050d:0237 Wired ethernet fails to connect; gives "DWC OTG HCD URB enqueue failed adding QTD. Error status -4008" Result is same as DUB-H7 below.
** F5U404 Hi-Speed USB 2.0 4-Port Mobile Hub. Faulty/bad design; Leaks current back up the cable to the Raspberry Pi.
** F5U307 Hi-Speed USB 2.0 7-Port Hub (Powered, able to apply power to Raspberry Pi via micro USB from this hub at same time) It work's sometimes. (Works always without powering the RPi, haven't tried that)

*'''Dell'''
** Dell U2410 Monitor Built-in 4 Port Hub - Shows up as a pair with 0424:2514 and 0424:2640. Standard Microsystems Corp. USB 2.0 Hub. When connecting some devices it kills the Ethernet with "smsc95xx 1-1.1:1.0: eth0: Failed to read register index 0x0000011X" errors. It did work for a keyboard and webcam. Bluetooth that works connected directly to the Pi triggers the error.

*'''DELTACO'''
** 7-Port USB Hub UH-713 Rev 3. This one consists also of two 05e3:0608 Genesys Logic, Inc. USB-2.0 4-Port HUBs connected together. The power supply is rated at 5 V 2 A. It kills ethernet when X11 is started.

*'''Dynex'''
** 7-Port USB Hub - Does not work in Debian 19-04 image.
** DX-HB7PT 7-Port USB Hub - As per the Gear Head below, it's 2 daisy-chained Genesys Logic 05e3:0608 devices. Appears to result in significant slow downs when the USB is under load, such as running the root filesystem from a USB drive.

*'''Dynamode'''
** 7-Port USB 2.0 Hub (Silver and black). Feeds power back up the interconnect to the Pi causing the power LED to light on the Pi if the hub is powered on but the Pi is not. The Pi also fails to boot when powered off this hub, with or without the interconnect plugged in. Stops the network from working when connected to the Pi after booting the Pi - cannot ssh to the Pi. Best avoided. :-( Shows up in ''lsusb'' as a pair of ''ID 05e3:0608 Genesys Logic, Inc. USB-2.0 4-Port HUB'' which is interesting. - Confirmed. This hub also appears unable to power an external USB drive using a y-cable as it gives the error -71 message in dmesg (when providing external power to the RPi)
** 4-Port High-Speed USB 2.0 Hub (USB-H40-A2.0), came with with a 1A power supply. Leaks power to the Pi through the uplink. Doesn't work with Pi, unless the Pi is powered by a second power source. This hub is completely generic and I've seen it being sold under different brand names as well. Therefore, a picture is [http://i.imgur.com/BPZ3j.jpg included] for easy identification.

*'''D-Link'''
** 7-Port USB Hub DUB-H7 (Crashes USB stack, including Ethernet, when plugging / using some peripherals). (See note above, it works with some distros and/or with latest firmware)

*'''E-Solution'''
** 4-Port 2A Supply (Does not detect at all during boot or after boot- no messages) [IC = Alcor Micro Corp (AU6254)]

*'''Fosmon'''
** 7-Port USB 2.0 Hub w/ 1A Power Supply (Causes interference with other USB devices and sends enough power to light up the pi with it's Micro USB cable unplugged).

*'''Gear Head'''
** UH7250MAC 7-port powered hub. Internally, two daisy-chained Genesys Logic 05e3:0608 devices. Causes Ethernet instability when used under very specific circumstances, in X11.
** <strike>UH5200T 4-port powered hub. As of 2012-08-16 Wheezy, if any USB 1.x device (a keyboard, for example) is plugged into this hub, Ethernet stops, and USB interrupts for other devices get dropped (keys repeating forever), etc. Occurs even if power is not attached (not a power leakage problem).</strike> Appears working after a bootloader and/or firmware update on 9/12. Also, turned out to be somewhat more specific to the combination of two particular low-speed devices.

*'''Hama'''
** 4-Port USB 2.0 "bus hub", model 78496 (?). Only works for low power devices (card readers?), but does not work for power hungry devices (HDD,WLAN). Doesnt boot when hub connected to RPi. The funniest thing is that RPi powers on when I plug in this hub to normal size USB port (not that small dedicated port). idVendor=05e3, idProduct=0608

*'''Kensington'''
** 7-Port Dome Hub model no 1500129 (Possible problems with malfunctioning keyboard, kills mouse when GUI started).

*'''Inland'''
** 4-Port USB 2.0 Cable Hub model no 480426 (Some devices work, some don't, cheap unshielded untwisted wire design)

*'''Logik'''
** LP7HUB11 7-Port USB Hub. (Ethernet failed, slow response, in LXDE. Happened whether or not the hub's independent power supply was connected to the hub.)

*'''Soniq'''
** 4-Port 5V supply. Model number CUH100. (B). Appears to draw power away from the Raspberry Pi, even when the Pi has an isolated power line. Netgear WNA1100 WiFi Adapter (which is known to work in other setups is recognized, but unresponsive.

*'''Targus'''
** ACH115EU 7-port powered hub. 5V 3A power supply. Arduino communicates with RPi when connected directly to Pi's USB port, but it hangs soon if connected via ACH115. Also sometimes smsc95xx eth0 Failed to read register index 0x00000114 etc. errors in syslog when used.

*'''TCM'''
** Model 234298 s/n T634007737 powered hub. 4 ports plus card reader. 1A power supply. Model B, Wheezy raspian works ok with keyboard/mouse but problems with WiFi no connects. (insufficient power?)

*'''Trust'''
** 10-port USB 2.0 Hub (powered). Prevents ethernet from being recognised.
** SliZe 7 port USB 2.0 Hub (powered) - Item number 17080 (Barcode 8 713439 170801). Prevents ethernet from being recognised. Keyboard sends multiple characters.

*'''Unbranded / Multiple Brands'''
** 7-port silver/black hub. Also sold elsewhere under brands such as 'EX-Pro', 'Trixes' and 'Xentra' -- This is ''probably'' due to an inadequate power supply. -- I replaced the terrible power supply with a very good one, kept getting "DEBUG: handle_hc_chhltd_intr_dma:: XactErr without NYET/NAK/ACK" in dmesg, with no devices plugged in to the hub (with or without the power supply in)
** Generic 7-port black hub with Genesys Logic GL850A chipset
** Cerulian 10 Port USB 2.0 Top Loading Hub with 2A supply (kills mouse and network port)<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/absolute-beginners/cheap-powered-usb-hub-uk/#p76452</ref>
** [http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=103&cp_id=10307&cs_id=1030701&p_id=226 USB 2.0 4 PORT INT/EXT DUAL HUB BAY] -- Genesys Chipset -- idVendor=05e3, idProduct=0607 -- low speed devices worked, but strange USB failures when X session started. High speed devices such as hard drives had failures.

== USB Remotes ==
* ATI Remote Wonder (X10 Wireless Technology, Inc. X10 Receiver) — ID 0bc7:0004 — appears as a joystick-like 2 button mouse and a 0-9 keypad without drivers on console and X.

* [http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DKZTMG/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00 Logitech Wireless Touch Keyboard K400 with Built-In Multi-Touch Touchpad (920-003070)] - keyboard and touchpad work. Have not verified multi-touch features.

* [http://www.ipazzport.com/02A.html iPazzport] mini 2.4 GHz wireless keyboard and touchpad.

* [http://www.ortek.com/html/pdt_view.asp?area=46&cat=152&sn=76 PKB 1800] Wireless Smart Pad ad Mini Keyboard. Pad works as mouse but not multi touch features. Keyboard works.

* [http://www.riitek.com/product_Info.asp?id=56 Riitek RT-MWK01] '''Rii''' Wireless 2.4 Ghz Keyboard-mouse Combo, also known as [http://www.digicom.it/digisit/prodotti.nsf/itprodottiidx/WKEYPE01 Digicom WKEYPE01], and [http://www.verkkokauppa.com/fi/product/52783 Prodige Nanox]. Working perfectly, just plug & play.

* [https://www.google.com/search?q=tranksung+TS-Y150 Tranksung TS-Y150] USB RF Keyboard and air mouse (B)

* [http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=6753651&CatId=3680# Exo Ultra U12-41310 Mini Keyboard] Bluetooth Adapter, Touchpad, Laser Pointer, Presentation & Multimedia Controls work perfectly but need a little love and config for make it work.[https://github.com/thunderbirdtr/rs-pi-exo-keyboard Exo Installer script]

== USB Keyboards ==
USB keyboards that present themselves as a standard HID (Human Interface Device) device should work. '''Please be aware that some of these keyboards were probably used with a powered hub'''
=== Working USB Keyboards ===
The following is a list of specific keyboards known to work and which appear to work fault-free.

* '''A4 Tech'''
** Model KL-5 USB Keyboard, 20mA.

* '''ABS'''
** M1 Heavy Duty Professional Gaming Mechanical Keyboard (B)

* '''Action Star'''
** ACK-5010U Mini Keyboard And Mouse

* '''Accuratus'''
** KYB-Toughball-HI

* '''Acer'''
** KG-0917 Wireless Keyboard And Mouse Bundle (B)
** KU-0906 Compact Keyboard (B) (Also known as Genius LuxeMate i200 Keyboard)
** SK-9625 Multimedia Keyboard (B) (multimedia functions not tested)

* '''Adesso'''
** [http://ergoprise.com/product_images/j/699/ADP-PU21_big__14173_zoom.jpg PS/2 to USB Adapter] ADP-PU21, 100mA (tested only with keyboards) Any PS/2 keyboard will work only if it will work with a reduced operating voltage.
** Model AKB-410UB. Keyboard with Touchpad.

* '''Apple''' (Apple keyboards that have USB ports require an external powered hub to work, and do not work on the PI directly!)
** [http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/ea/Apple_iMac_Keyboard_A1243.png/800px-Apple_iMac_Keyboard_A1243.png Apple Keyboard with Numeric Keypad (aluminium/wired) A1243]
** [http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/81/Apple_Keyboard_A1242.jpg Apple Keyboard (aluminium/wired) A1242]

* '''Asda'''
** Basic Wired Keyboard HK2026 (B)
** Basic Wired Keyboard HK3014
*** (Please note when I put this keyboard through Newlink USB hub, it didn't work as expected)
** Premium Wireless Keyboard (white keys, silver back) HK8028
** Wireless Multimedia Deskset (keyboard, mouse and USB dongle) Model: HKM8016B (Note: Shown on Asda Website as HK8016B) (B)

* '''Asus'''
** KS-631U (comes with Asus Vento KM-63 keyboard/mouse set, not using powered hub) (B)

* '''Banbridge'''
** [http://www.kurpirkti.lt/imagesi/infodb/org_d69dbd9707af8df77eae6e005f681a9a/BANDRIDGE-USB-2X-PS-2-ADAPTER.jpg PS/2 to USB Banbridge CPA4002 Adapter] (B) (Tested with Logitech C-SF17 Cordless Desktop Express)

* '''BTC - Behavior Tech Computer Corp.'''
** Wired Portable Keyboard Model 6100 US (86+9 keys)
*** Works with or without a powered hub
** Wireless Multimedia Keyboard with build in pointer/mouse Model 9029URF III (86+17 keys) (B)
** [http://www.btc.com.tw/english/2-7-07keyboard.htm Wired Multimedia keyboard 6311U/6310U] - rated at 5V/100mA, works directly

* '''Bush'''
** Wired Slimline Keyboard KU-0833
*** This does not require a USB hub in order to work with the Raspberry Pi
*** In the UK, it is available from Argos for £9.99

* '''Cerulian'''
** Mini wireless keyboard and mouse deskset (B)

* '''CD Training'''
** [http://www.cd-training.fr/?&feed=product&product_id=308 Wireless Combo Keyboard and Mouse (SolClavGlos)]

* '''Cherry'''
** CyMotion Master Linux (B)
** RS 6000 USB ON
** G84-4100PTMUS (B) (Compact keyboard. Rated 100mA. Works directly in Pi)

* '''Compaq'''
** Compaq Internet Keyboard KU-9978 (049f:000e). Rated 5v 100mA. Works directly connected to Pi

* '''Das Keyboard'''
** Model S Professional Keyboard (Built in USB hub not tested) (B)
** Model S Ultimate Keyboard (Built in USB hub working) (B)

* '''Dell'''
** SK-8115 (B) (Rated 100mA. Works directly in pi)
** L100 (B)
** RT7D50 (75mA) (run "sudo dpkg-reconfigure keyboard-configuration")
** KB1421 (100mA)
** KB2521 (100mA)
** 1HF2Y (Works directly in pi)
** Bluetooth Wireless Keyboard and Mouse Bundle (B), Bluetooth USB dongle C-UV35 (Rated 500mA but works great), Keyboard Y-RAQ-DEL2, Mouse M-RBB-DEL4

* '''Delux'''
** K8050

* '''Digicom'''
** WKEYPE01 Wireless 2.4 Ghz Keyboard-mouse Combo, also known as [http://www.riitek.com/product_Info.asp?id=56 Riitek RT-MWK01] and [http://www.verkkokauppa.com/fi/product/52783 Prodige Nanox]

* '''Dynex'''
** DX_-WKBD (60ma) (B)
** DX_-WKBDSL (Hot keys not yet tested with Debian) (tested through non-powered 3 dongle usb hub) (B)

* '''EAPPLY'''
** EBO-013 Wireless 2.4GHz compact keyboard with touchpad. Rated <40mA works directly from Pi. eBay ref 260962010276 from Shenzen, China.

* '''Emprex'''
** Wireless Media Control Keyboard With Trackball 9039ARF III (Media functions untested)

* '''Fujitsu Siemens'''
** KB SC USB UK (!)
** KB910 USB, with led light on the highest level (B)
** KB400 USB US

* '''GE'''
** 98139 Rev.K1 (Power Keyboard) (lsusb shows it as "0b38:0010 Gear Head 107-Key Keyboard") - works without a hub (i.e. directly connected) (B)

* '''Gear Head'''
** KB3700TP (USB Mini Smart Touch Touchpad Keyboard) (B)
** KB3800TP (Wireless Touch Mini Touchpad Keyboard with Smart Touch) (B)
*** Works when plugged directly into Raspberry Pi, did not work with powered hub (could be a hub issue)
** KB3800TPW (Windows Smart Touch Wireless Keyboard with Touchpad) (B)RASPBMC supported
** KB4950TPW (Wireless Touch II Touchpad Keyboard) (B)
** KB1500U (USB Mini Keyboard) (B)
** KB5150 (2.4Ghz wireless keyboard/mouse Combo) (B)
*** Works well with a powered hub

* '''Genius'''
** Ergomedia 700 (GK-04008/C) used without Hub
** KB-06XE (K639) (B)
** Slimstar 8000 wireless keyboard

* '''HP'''
** KG-1061
** KG-0851 Wireless Keyboard and Mouse
** KU-0316 (B)
** LV290AA#ABA Wireless Keyboard and Mouse
** PR1101U (available from Sainsbury's in the UK, £8, July 2012)
** SK-2880

* '''Hyundai'''
** HY-K201

* '''iConcepts'''
** 2.4GHz Wireless Keyboard and Optical Mouse Model 62550
*** (saves a USB port since keyboard and mouse share one transceiver, $14.99 at Fry's Electronics)

* '''Imation'''
** KBD-702 Multi-media Wired Keyboard
*** (works after the firmware update via [https://github.com/Hexxeh/rpi-update rpi-update] as of 06/27/2012)

* '''IOGEAR'''
** IOGEAR GKM561R Wireless HTPC Multimedia Keyboard with Trackball
** IOGEAR GKM681R 2.4GHz Wireless Compact Keyboard with Optical Trackball and Scroll Wheel

* '''iPazzPort'''

* '''i.t.works'''
** KC04 (direct and by usb hub)
** KC Silicone (only tested directly)

* '''Jenkins'''
** Jenkins Wireless Desktop Set Blue (B)

* '''KeySonic'''
** ACK-540RF (Wireless USB keyboard with built-in trackpad); works fine on Debian Squeeze plugged directly into Pi. Also works with Raspbmc with powered hub.
** ACK-540RF+ (UK) WiFi keyboard inc touchpad with USB wifi dongle works fb with on model B/raspian/wheezy via powered hub
** ACK-3700C
** ACK-340U+(DE)
** ACK-3400U (UK) mini keyboard
** ACK-612RF (GER) Wireless Mini-Keyboard; works fine with its wireless adpater plugged directly into Pi

* '''Labtec'''
** [http://www.labtec.com/index.cfm/gear/details/EUR/EN,crid=28,contentid=692| Ultra-flat Keyboard]

* '''Laptopmate'''
** AK-98UNTN7-UBRII Laptopmate RII Touch N7 Mini Wireless Keyboard with touchpad

* '''LC-Power
** K1000BMW (lsusb: ID 1241:f767 Belkin; dmesg: HOLTEK Wireless 2.4GHz Trackball Keyboard) tested with Debian 6.0.4

* '''Lenovo'''
** SK-8825 UK (B)
** Lenovo Enhanced Multimedia Remote with backlit keyboard N5902 (US)
** Lenovo Mini Wireless Keyboard N5901 (US)

* '''Lindy'''
** 21840 (Wireless RF 2.4GHz Micro Keyboard with built-in optical touchpad/trackpad, USB); works fine on model B/raspian/wheezy - the supplied Lindy USB nano dongle transceiver plugged directly into Pi USB port.

* '''Logik'''
** Ultra slim keyboard LKBWSL11 (B) >> '''This is also listed under Problem USB Keyboards?'''

* '''Logitech'''
** Comfort Wave 450, labeled 100mA (M/N Y-U0001, P/N 820-001725, PID SC951C40001)
** diNovo Mini wireless keyboard with media controls and clickpad 920-000586 (B)
** diNovo Edge Keyboard, Windows edition, built-in TouchDisc track-pad, bluetooth w/ USB mini-receiver 967685-0403 (B)
** Wii wireless keyboard KG-0802 (!)
** C-BG17-Dual Wireless keyboard and mouse with wired USB receiver (B)
** Deluxe 250 Keyboard
** Internet 350 (M/N 967740-0403)
** Internet Navigator Keyboard
** MK120 wired keyboard and mouse
** MK220 wireless keyboard and mouse
** MK250 wireless keyboard and mouse (no hub needed)
** MK260 wireless keyboard and mouse
** MK300 wireless keyboard and mouse
** MK320 wireless keyboard and mouse [http://www.amazon.co.uk/Logitech-920-002885-MK320-Wireless-Desktop/dp/B003STDQYW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1339166178&sr=8-3]
** MK350 wireless keyboard (using Unifying receiver)
** MK520 wireless keyboard and mouse
** MK550 wireless keyboard and mouse (B)
** MX3200 wireless keyboard and mouse (B)
** MX5000 Bluetooth keyboard and mouse (B) The Logitech Bluetooth dongle also does proprietary wireless so it works without Bluetooth drivers.
** EX100 Cordless Desktop, Wireless Keyboard and Mouse (B)
** EX110 Cordless Desktop, wireless keyboard and mouse (B)
** C-SF17 Cordless Desktop Express, Wireless Keyboard and Mouse (B) PS/2 Interface. Tested using [http://www.kurpirkti.lt/imagesi/infodb/org_d69dbd9707af8df77eae6e005f681a9a/BANDRIDGE-USB-2X-PS-2-ADAPTER.jpg PS/2 to USB Banbridge CPA4002 Adapter]
** K120 Keyboard (B)
** K200 Keyboard (B)
** K230 Wireless Keyboard (Unifying receiver, no powered hub) (B)
** K340 Wireless Keyboard (Unifying receiver, no powered hub) (B)
** K350 Wireless Keyboard (B)
** K400 wireless keyboard with touchpad - also listed under "problematic". Works for weeks with openelec and raspbian without any problems. Worked out of the box - the on/off switch needs to be "on" for it to function correctly. Highly recommended if you are "working from the sofa".
** K520 Keyboard (B)
** K700 Wireless Keyboard with Touchpad and unifying receiver
** K750 Wireless Solar Keyboard (B) (Mac version works too. (B) )
** LX 710 - works fine with receiver plugged directly into the RPi (accompanying mouse works fine too).
** S510 wireless keyboard and mouse (B)
** Ultra-Flat Keyboard (M/N Y-BP62A P/N 820-000245 PID SY126UK)labelled 100 mA. OK direct into Model B RPi.
** G19 Gaming Keyboard, works fine with no external power. Illumination with external power. Powered hum in back of keyboard works too.
** G15 Gaming keyboard, as long as you press the backlight button twice to turn off the backlight (it says below it dosen't work with backlight on.
** V470 Bluetooth Laser Mouse

''Keyboards and mice also together with Unifying receiver''

* '''Microsoft'''
**Microsoft Comfort Curve Keyboard 2000
**Microsoft Comfort Curve Keyboard 3000 for Business
**Microsoft Digital Media Pro Keyboard Model : 1031 (Debian 13-Apr-2012)
**Microsoft Natural Ergonomic Keyboard 4000 (B) (Debian "Wheezy" beta 18-June-2012)
**Microsoft Wired Keyboard 600 Model 1366 (Debian 28-May-2012 on Production Model B)
**Microsoft Wireless Desktop 700 Keyboard v2.0 (Raspbian Pisces image 08-June-2012 on Production Model B)
**Microsoft Wireless Photo Keyboard (Model 1027) Unifying receiver, no hub
**Microsoft Wireless Natural Multimedia Keyboard (Raspbian Pisces 08-July-2012) (B)
**Microsoft Windows 2000 Keyboard (KB-USBK110610)
**[https://www.microsoft.com/hardware/en-us/p/wired-keyboard-600/ANB-00001 Microsoft Wired Keyboard 600]. The keyboard is rated at 5v/100mA (Wheezy 5-Sept-2012)

* '''Mikomi'''
** Wireless Deskset KM80545 Keyboard and mouse (Works but range is terrible less than a metre) (B)

* '''Monoprice'''
** [http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10404&cs_id=1040401&p_id=6854&seq=1&format=2|Monoprice PS/2 To USB Adapter] Directly and through an unpowered hub with a USB mouse plugged in.

* '''Motorola'''

** Bluetooth wireless ultra slim keyboard and mouse combo (sold as for the "Atrix" phone) work in combination with the Technika Bluetooth adaptor listed below

* '''Novatech'''
** [http://www.novatech.co.uk/products/peripherals/desktopkits/nov-wcombo.html|Novatech Wireless Combo - Keyboard & Mouse, Nano adapter] (B)

* '''ONN'''
**ONN Keyboard Stock No: ONA11HO089 (from Walmart). Seems to work fine, even without a hub.
**ONN Keyboard Stock No: ONA11HO087 (from Walmart). Combination keyboard and mouse package with nano receiver. Be sure to configure keyboard layout.

* '''Ortek'''
** Ortek Technology, Inc. [http://www.ortek.com/html/pdt_view.asp?area=46&cat=150&sn=79 WKB-2000S] Wireless Keyboard with Touchpad works fine on Raspbian Wheezy and Raspbmc. Wireless USB receiver (device ID 05a4:2000) is recognised automatically. Connected directly to Pi USB port, no powered hub used.

* '''Perixx'''
**Periboard 716 Wireless Ultra-Slim Keyboard with Touchpad (Debian 07-Jun-2012 on Production Model B)
** PERIBOARD-502 wired keyboard inc built in touchpad (model B/raspian wheezy)
** Periduo-707 Plus (Wireless Keyboard and Mouse) works fine ''most'' of the time. Does suffer from dropouts and glitches though. Usual "drawing too much power from USB" problems show up as well - dropped key presses or constant autorepeats. These can be cured by pulling out and reinserting the dongle in the USB socket. The keyboard sometimes hangs after power on when used with my laptop - it seems to need 30 seconds of non-use before it works fine. Again, remove and insert the dongle cures it. Works fine vi my Benq monitor's USB Hub.

* '''Philips'''
**Wired Multimedia Keyboard SPK3700BC/97 (Debian 19-Apr-2012 on Production Model B)

* '''Prodige'''
**Nanox Wireless 2.4 Ghz Keyboard-mouse Combo, also known as [http://www.riitek.com/product_Info.asp?id=56 Riitek RT-MWK01] and [http://www.digicom.it/digisit/prodotti.nsf/itprodottiidx/WKEYPE01 Digicom WKEYPE01]

* '''Rapoo'''
**Rapoo E9080 Wireless Ultra-Slim Keyboard with Touchpad
**Rapoo Wireless Multi-media Touchpad Keyboard E2700 [http://www.rapoo.com/showdetails.aspx?P_No=E2700]
**Rapoo Ultra-Slim Wireless Multimedia Keyboard and Mouse E9060 (works proper on powered USB Hub)

*'''Riitek'''
**RT-MWK03 mini wireless keyboard & trackpad
**RT-MWK02+ mini bluetooth keyboard & trackpad. Followed instructions from this page: [http://www.ctheroux.com/2012/08/a-step-by-step-guide-to-setup-a-bluetooth-keyboard-and-mouse-on-the-raspberry-pi/] and it worked, connection persists across reboots, no problem with either builtin USB or powered USB hub.
**RT-MWK01 mini wireless 2.4 Ghz Keyboard-mouse Combo, also known as [http://www.digicom.it/digisit/prodotti.nsf/itprodottiidx/WKEYPE01 Digicom WKEYPE01], and [http://www.verkkokauppa.com/fi/product/52783 Prodige Nanox]

*'''Rosewill'''
** RK-200 Standard Keyboard

*'''Saitek'''
** Eclipse II Backlit Keyboard PK02AU (B)
** Eclipse Backlit Keyboard PZ30AV (B) - works fine when connected directly to Pi rev.1 and 2 USB port. No powered hub used.
** Expression Keyboard (US)
** Cyborg V.5 (B)

*'''SelecLine'''
** WK11P & WM11P-SP-PP. Keyboard and mouse set. (B)

*'''SIIG'''
** SIIG Wireless Multi-Touchpad Mini Keyboard 02-1286A v1.0 (B)

*'''Silvercrest'''
** MTS2219 Wireless Keyboard and mouse set. Powered hub NOT used. (B)

*'''SolidTek'''
** Solid Tek KB-P3100BU ASK-3100U.

*'''Sony'''
** Keyboard for PlayStation 2 (PS2) Linux. Works without powered hub with 5v1A supply, requires manual keyboard remapping with Debian Squeeze to USA 101-key layout.

* '''SteelSeries'''
** Merc keyboard (B)

* '''Sun Microsystems'''
** Model: Type 7, SUN PN: 320-1348-02 (Danish key layout)
** Model: Type 6, SUN PN: 320-1279-01 (Danish key layout)

* '''Sweex'''
** [http://www.sweex.com/en/assortiment/input/keyboards/KB060UK/ KB060UK] Wired Multimedia Keyboard

* '''Technika'''
** WKEY03 (B)
** TKD-211

* '''Tesco'''
** Value Keyboard VK109 (B)
** Multimedia K211 Wired Keyboard (B)

*'''The Pi Hut'''
** Super Slim Apple Style Keyboard (from [http://thepihut.com/products/usb-keyboard-for-the-raspberry-pi The Pi Hut's Raspberry Pi Store])
** Super Slim Apple Style Keyboard Set (Keyboard & Mouse) (from [http://thepihut.com/products/usb-keyboard-mouse-bundle-for-the-raspberry-pi The Pi Hut's Raspberry Pi Store])

* '''Trust'''
** Trust 17916 Compact Wireless Entertainment Keyboard http://www.trust.com/products/product.aspx?artnr=17916 (B)
** Trust ClassicLine Keyboard http://trust.com/17184
** Trust Camiva MultiMedia Keyboard http://trust.com/products/product.aspx?artnr=16087
** Trust Convex Keyboard http://trust.com/products/product.aspx?artnr=17603 tested debian6-19-04-2012 and archlinuxarm-13-06-2012 (B)

* '''Unbranded'''
** AK-601 Wireless Mini Keyboard and Trackball (with laser pointer) - sourced from eBay Chinese seller

* '''Unicomp'''
** USB Endurapro - keyboard and trackpoint work perfectly from powered hub

* '''Q-Connect'''
** AK-808 (B)

* '''Xenta'''
** 2.4GHz Wireless Multimedia Entertainment Keyboard with Touchpad (B)
** Mini Multimedia Keyboard (Model no.: 808M) (B)

===Problem USB Keyboards===

Note that generally PS/2 keyboards with an USB adapter will not work directly on a PI port, due to the fact that PS/2 keyboards are designed for normal 5V +-5% range, while USB keyboards must be designed to work with 4.4 Volt, and generally USB devices on the PI may receive less than 4.75 Volt. PS/2 + USB adapter keyboards might work behind a powered hub, which does provide the full 5.0V. Some of these keyboards work when running the latest raspbian but not when using the overclocked xbmc version of raspbmc, probably due to the overclocking drawing more power away from the rest of the support system devices.

* '''A4 Tech'''
** Model GL-6 USB Keyboard, 20mA. Part of wireless keyboard/mouse bundle GL-6630 (GL-6 + G7-630 + RN-10B) - suffers from USB flakeyness. Even on a powered hub. No problems on other computers I have tested it with.
* '''Accuratus'''
** Accuratus KYBAC100-101USBBLK causes kernel panic (rated 100mA). Tested with 1000mA cheap unbranded and Nokia 1200mA power adaptors.
* '''Apple'''
** [http://www.powerbookmedic.com/xcart1/images/D/apple-keyboard.jpg Apple Keyboard (109 keys) A1048]. Draws too much power and does not seem to work properly when plugged into a powered hub.
*'''Argos'''
** Argos Value Wired Keyboard causes kernel panic
* '''Choidy'''
** Identifiers from usb-devices: Vendor=1a2c ProdID=0002 Rev=01.10 Product=USB Keykoard (yes, 'Keykoard') causes kernel panic
* '''Cit'''
** KB-1807UB Causes kernel panic (Rated <200ma)
* '''Dell'''
** SK-8135 (B) (Rated 1.5A. Takes too much power from pi even when not used as USB hub. Symptom = repeated keystrokes)
** SK-8115 causes kernel panic (rated 100mA) Debian 6-19-04-2012 (B)
** Y-U0003-DEL5 Sticky / Non-responsive keys
* '''Gear Head'''
** KB2300U - Causes kernel panic (B)
* '''GMYLE'''
** Wired USB Slim Chocolate Multimedia Media Typing Keyboard With 3 USB Port hub (B) - Kernel Panic on startup if plugged in. If plugged in at login prompt then freeze. [http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0067EC3GW/]
* '''Inland'''
** Inland USB Keyboard Model #70010
* '''Jeway'''
** JK-8170 "The Hunter" - causes kernel oops (Debian6-19-04-2012) (B)
* '''Labtec'''
** ultra-flat wireless desktop USB - Keyboard has 'sticky' keys. Tested both debian6-19-04-2012 and archlinuxarm-13-06-2012 (B)
* '''Logik'''
** Wired Multimedia Keyboard Model: LKBWMM11 - causes kernel panic (on Debian 190412 distro) (B)
** Wired Ultra Slim Keyboard Model: LKBWSL11 - causes USB power issues. Not reliable. Causes other USB devices to fail (B) >> '''This is also listed under Working USB Keyboards??'''
* '''Logitech'''
** Logitech Illuminated Keyboard (unstable; not working with led light on; tested both US and NO layouts with both Apple iPad 2 and Asus TF-101 USB chargers)
** G110 Gaming Keyboard - only works with illumination off, otherwise unresponsive. Once failed it needs reconnecting before another attempt. (B)
** G15 Gaming Keyboard - LCD and key backlights flicker, 95% unresponsive to typing. I don't know of a way to turn the illumination off. (B)
** K360 Wireless Keyboard - Occasional sticky keys. (B)
** K400 wireless keyboard with touchpad (completely non-functional on debian6-19-04-2012)
** G510 Gaming Keyboard - lagging or unresponsive keys.
** MX5500 wireless keyboard and mouse with usb bluetooth reciever - Unstable, looses connection without prior notice
** EX100 Cordless Desktop, wireless keyboard and mouse. Mouse and keyboard hangs every few minutes (with or without hub).
* '''Microsoft'''
** Wireless Desktop 800 - Keyboard has 'sticky' keys. (B)
** Wireless Entertainment Keyboard - No key input recognized (possibly connectivity issue as pairing devices does not seem to work)
** Wireless Optical Desktop 1000 - Keyboard has 'sticky' keys (B)
** Wireless Keyboard 2000 - Keyboard has 'sticky' keys. (B)
** Wireless Desktop 3000 - Keyboard has 'sticky' keys.
** Arc wireless - Keyboard has 'sticky' keys. (B)
** Sidewinder X4 - Keyboard has 'sticky' keys. (B)
** Sidewinder X6 - Keyboard has 'sticky' keys. (B)
** Wireless Comfort Keyboard 5000 - Keyboard has 'sticky' keys. (B)
** Razer Reclusa - Keyboard has 'sticky' keys. (B rev 2.0)
* '''Novatech'''
** NOV-KEY2 - Causes kernel panic (B)<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/keyboard-creates-kernal-panic/page-2</ref>
* '''PC World Essentials'''
** PKBW11 Wired Keyboard - no power to keyboard, no error messages on both Arch 29-04-2012 and Debian6-19-04-2012, same Pi works with Asda keyboard. Me too, but caused a kernel panic -- tested on powered hub and direct.
* '''Razer'''
** Razer Tarantula gaming keyboard - sticky keys, could be power issue as is programmable with host powered USB hub and audio jacks.
** Razer BlackWidow - Sticky keys, could be a power related issue due to illuminated logo (Blue LED).
** Razer Arctosa - Sticky keys, most probably power related issue since it states it's rated at 5v 500mA. (B)
* '''SIIG'''
** Wireless Ultra Slim Multimedia Mini Keyboard JK-WR0612-S1 - Unresponsive and sticky keys.
* '''Texet'''
** MB-768B standard keyboard (Rated 5V 1.5A(!), so probably too much power drain. Kernel panic, Debian6-19-04-2012)
* '''Trust'''
** TRUST GXT 18 Gaming Keyboard - No power to keyboard, could be a driver issue - no error messages.
* '''Unbranded'''
** Compuparts
** model no. HK-6106 (B) <ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/keyboard-creates-kernal-panic/page-2</ref>
** LK-890 (Multimedia keyboard & Optical Mouse) - kernel panic on Debian Squeeze, ArchLinux and Qtonpi.
* '''Verbatim'''
** [http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LB5AKY/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i02|Verbatim 97472 Mini Wireless Slim Keyboard and Mouse] - Keyboard has lagging, unresponsive and sticky keys issues. (Tested with and without powered USB hub.)
* '''Wilkinsons / TEXET'''
** Model MB-768B causes kernel panic on debian6-19-04-2012.
* '''Xenta'''
** HK-6106 - causes kernel panic (on Debian 190412 distro)(B)
** Multimedia Wireless Keyboard and Mouse Set (Keyboard Model: HK3518B + Mouse Model HM3301) (B) - occasional sticky keys, and occasional complete lock-up

== USB Mouse devices ==
USB mouse devices that present themselves as a standard HID (Human Interface Device) device should work, however some hardware requires special drivers or additional software, usually only compatible with Windows operating systems.

===Working USB Mouse Devices===
The following is a list of specific mouse devices known to work and which appear to be fault-free.

* '''A4Tech'''
** OP-530NU Padless Wired Mouse

* '''Asda'''
** HM5058 (Smart Price) Wired Mouse
** Wireless Multimedia Deskset (keyboard, mouse and USB dongle) Model: HKM8016B (Note: Shown on Asda Website as HK8016B) (B)

* '''ASUS'''
** MS-511U (comes with Asus Vento KM-63 keyboard/mouse combo) (B)
** MG-0919 (wireless)

* '''Belkin'''
**F8E882-OPT (B)

* '''Dell'''
** M-UVDEL1 (B)
** M056U0A (B)
** DZL-MS111-L (B) (100mA)
** MS-111P (100mA)
** Bluetooth Wireless Keyboard and Mouse Bundle (B), Bluetooth USB dongle C-UV35 (Rated 500mA but works great), Keyboard Y-RAQ-DEL2, Mouse M-RBB-DEL4

* '''Dynex'''
** DX-WMSE (100mA) (B)

* '''Fellowes'''
** 99928 USB Micro Track Ball (works without a hub, directly plugged in) (B)

* '''Filand'''
** OP-102i Mini Optical Mouse

* '''Genius'''
** GM-04003A (B)
** Slimstar 8000 wireless mouse (Can be intermitent. Mouse pointer sometimes is irratic.)
** Traveler 515 Laser

* '''HP'''
** MN-UAE96 (The basic stock HP wired mouse)(B)

* '''iConcepts'''
** 2.4GHz Wireless Keyboard and Optical Mouse Model 62550
*** (saves a USB port since keyboard and mouse share one transceiver, $14.99 at Fry's Electronics)

* '''Jenkins'''
** Jenkins Wireless Desktop Set Blue (B)

* '''Kensington'''
** Kensington Expert Mouse Trackball K64325
** Kensington Expert Mouse "Slimblade" K72327US

* '''Labtec'''
** Corded Laser Glow Mouse 1600, rated 5V 100mA (P/N 810-000819, M/N M-UAZ149, PID GT83401)

* '''Lenovo'''
** Wired Optical Mouse Model: MO28UOL

* '''Logik'''
** Wired Optical Glow Mouse Model: LGGMO10. (B)

* '''Logitech'''
** B105 Mouse for Laptops (OEM)
** Cordless Pilot Optical Mouse M/N M-RR95 with Cordless Mouse Receiver M/N C-BA4-MSE
** G5 Logitech Gaming Mouse (B)
** G5v2 Logitech Gaming Mouse (B)
** G500 Logitech Gaming Mouse (B)
** G700 Logitech Wireless Gaming Mouse (B)
** LX-700 Cordless Desktop Receiver (B)
** LX 710 Wireless Mouse - works fine with receiver plugged directly into RPi (accompanying keyboard works fine too).
** M90 optical mouse
** M185 Wireless Mouse (B)
** M210 (part of the MK260 set) (B)
** M305 Wireless Mouse
** M310 Cordless Mouse
** M325 Wireless Mouse
** M505 USB wireless laser, model no: 910-001324 (B)
** M510 Wireless Mouse (B)
** M705 Marathon Mouse (Unifying receiver, no powered hub) (B)
** M-BD58 Wheel Mouse (B)
** M-BJ58/M-BJ69 Optical Wheel Mouse (B)
** M-BJ79 (B)
** M-BT96a Optical Mouse
** MX320/MX400 laser mouse (B)
** MX518 Optical wheel mouse (B)
** Optical USB Mouse (M/N 931643-0403)
** Performance Mouse MX (B)
** MX Revolution (B) (Debian "Wheezy" beta 18-June-2012)
** VX Nano Cordless Laser Mouse for Notebooks
** Wheel Mouse (M/N BJ58)

* '''Medion'''
** Mini mouse Model M101-CBJ P/N 40016632 S/N 7BFSA00003445 rated 5v 100ms Works fb on model B with raspian wheezy

* '''Microsoft'''
** Comfort Curve Mouse 3000 for Business
** Comfort Mouse 6000 (works when directly connected to Pi (B). Does not work when connected through USB Hub (mouse pointer intermittent).
** Compact optical mouse 500 V2.0 (B)
** Wheel Optical Mouse (wheel and additional buttons not tested) (B)
** Microsoft Intellimouse Optical Mouse
** Microsoft Wireless Laser Mouse 8000
** Microsoft Wireless Mobile Mouse 1000
** Microsoft Wireless Mobile Mouse 3500
** Microsoft Wireless Mobile Mouse 4000
** Microsoft Wireless Mouse 700 v2.0
** Microsoft Comfort Mouse 4500
** Wireless IntelliMouse Explorer 2.0 (unifying receiver, no hub)

* '''Novatech'''
** [http://www.novatech.co.uk/products/peripherals/miceandtrackballs/nov-mouser.html|Novatech M1 USB Mouse - Wired](B)
** [http://www.novatech.co.uk/products/peripherals/miceandtrackballs/nov-dl10.html|Novatech DL10 Wireless Mouse] (B)

* '''Razer'''
** Boomslang Collectors Edition 2007 (B)

* '''Rosewill'''
** Rosewill RM-C2U

* '''Saitek'''
** Notebook Optical Mouse (PM46)

* '''Samsung'''
** Samsung model:AA-SM3PCPB usb Optical Mouse (draws 50mA)

* '''Sun microsystems'''
** Model: FID-638 , SunPN: 371-0788-01

* '''Sweex'''
** [http://www.sweex.com/en/assortiment/input/optical-mice/MI015/ MI015]

* '''Swiftpoint'''
** [http://http://www.americas.futuremouse.com/] Swiftpoint Mini Wireless Optical Mouse. Does not require any special drivers. Haven't confirmed if charging the mouse requires a powered USB hub or not.

* '''Targus'''
** AMU2701EUK (B)

* '''Technika'''
** TKOPTM2 (B)
**TKD-211

* '''Tesco'''
** Wired optical mouse M211 (B)

*'''The Pi Hut'''
** USB Mouse for Raspberry Pi (from [http://thepihut.com/products/usb-mouse-for-the-raspberry-pi The Pi Hut's Raspberry Pi Store])
** Super Slim Keyboard & Mouse Set (from [http://thepihut.com/products/usb-keyboard-mouse-bundle-for-the-raspberry-pi The Pi Hut's Raspberry Pi Store])

* '''Trust'''
** Trust Nanou Wireless Micro Mouse http://trust.com/products/product.aspx?artnr=17087

* '''Verbatiam'''
**Mini Nano Optical Mouse 97470 (wireless on non-powered 3 usb dongle hub) (B)

* '''Xenta'''
** MOW0810 (B)
** Wired Optical Mouse (from [http://thepihut.com/products/usb-mouse-for-the-raspberry-pi The Pi Hut's Raspberry Pi Store])

* '''Generic'''
** Generic 2.4GHz Wireless Mouse (ID 040b:2013 Weltrend Semiconductor) (B)

===Problem USB Mouse Devices===
The following is a list of specific mouse devices that have problems working with the Raspberry Pi
* '''A4Tech'''
** Model G7-630 Wireless Mouse, 20mA. Part of wireless keyboard/mouse bundle GL-6630 (GL-6 + G7-630 + RN-10B) - suffers from USB flakeyness. Even on a powered hub. No problems on other computers I have tested it with.
* '''HP'''
** HP Retractable Mobile Mouse (Optical) HP Product Number XP472AA - errors / boot loop RASPBMC (B)removed mouse, started with no further errors.

* '''Logik'''
** Logik IMF Blue Trace Wired USB mouse (Model LMWBLU11) - disconnects from the USB port every 20 seconds when using the Raspian distro. Always reconnects to the USB port successfully (B)

* '''Logitech'''
** Logitech G400 Gaming Mouse - 100% CPU load and laggy mouse cursor when the mouse is moved. MX518 works fine on the same setup, so I suspect it's a polling rate issue. [http://tech2.in.com/reviews/mice/logitech-g400-is-it-a-worthy-successor/231012 this] says the mouse is 1000Hz out of the box, whereas the 518 is only 125Hz. Solution found: add usbhid.mousepoll=8 to the kernel commandline.

* '''Microsoft'''
** Microsoft Touch Mouse - Does not see right clicks, Only left.

* '''Razer'''
** Naga Wired USB mouse - the mouse seems to present itself as a keyboard because the numpad on the left-hand side of the device works but the cursor doesn't move.

* '''Roccat'''
** Kone[+] Wired USB mouse - Nothing happens when moving the mouse, haven't looked further into the issue (B)

* '''Trust'''
** Optical USB Mouse MI-2250 - Nothing happens when moving the mouse (B)

* '''Xenta'''
** Multimedia Wireless Keyboard and Mouse Set (Mouse Model: HM-3301) (B) - frequent lost connection giving stuttering mouse cursor indicating USB current not enough for dongle

== USB Real Time Clocks ==
*Cymbet
** Cymbet CBC-EVAL-06 USB Real Time Clock (FT2232 to SPI to RV-2123)
Device information at http://www.cymbet.com/pdfs/DS-72-22.pdf
Code to access the RTC from Linux: https://github.com/owendelong/Cymbet-RTC
Does not require a powered hub.

== USB WiFi Adapters ==

See also: http://www.element14.com/community/docs/DOC-44703/l/raspberry-pi-wifi-adapter-testing

There is a howto on installing the TL-WN722N adapter [http://elinux.org/RPi_Peripherals#Wireless:_TP-Link_TL-WN722N_USB_wireless_adapter_.28Debian_6.29 here], which also acts as a guide for installing others too.

===Working USB Wifi Adapters===

These adapters are known to work on the Raspberry Pi. This list is not exhaustive, other adapters may well work, but have not yet been tried.

'''Note:''' A WiFi adapter will probably need more power than the Raspberry Pi USB port can provide, especially if
there is a large distance from the WiFi adapter to the WiFi Access Point. Therefore, you may need to plug the WiFi adapter into a powered USB hub.

* '''3COM'''
** 3CRUSB10075: ZyDAS zd1211rw chipset (!)

* '''7DayShop'''
** W-3S01BLK, W-3S01BLKTWIN : Unbranded product available from 7DayShop, in a single or twin pack. [http://www.7dayshop.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=777_9&products_id=112046], [http://www.7dayshop.com/catalog/product_info.php?&products_id=112527]. Tested on Debian Wheezy, with the dongle attached directly to the RPi along with the wireless keyboard receiver. Shows up as a Ralink RT5370 device, and no drivers or additional software downloads required. Created wpa.conf, edited 'interfaces' file and restarted the networking. The manufacturer portion of the MAC address (7cdd90) is assigned to "Shenzhen Ogemray Technology Co., Ltd."
** It works without additional software connected directly to a Rev 2 Pi but stops working after a period of time (3 to 4 hours) with a fully updated Wheezy and all the 'USB workarounds' [http://elinux.org/Rpi_USB_check-list] in place.

* '''Alfa'''
** AWUS036NEH: Tested on Debian Squeeze (with Ralink firmware package)
** AWUS036NH: Tested on Arch Linux ARM using the rt2800usb module.
** AWUS036NH: Tested on Debian Wheezy (with Ralink firmware package). Tested on Raspbian too (drivers from aircrack-ng).
** AWUS036H (500mW version): Tested on Raspbian (drivers from aircrack-ng).
** AWUS036H (1W version): Tested on Raspbian (drivers from aircrack-ng). Needs USB powered HUB or Rev2 of the board / polyfuse bypass.
** AWUS036NHA: Tested on Raspbian (drivers from aircrack-ng). Works fine if connected after boot, otherwise Raspberry Pi won't boot up.

* '''AirLink101'''
** AWLL5088: Tested on Debian Wheezy. This adapter is based on the OEM Edimax EW-7811Un. For automatic installation, See MrEngmanns script listed below under the Edimax device.

* '''Asus'''
** [http://www.element14.com/community/docs/DOC-44703 USB-N10] USB ID 0b05:1786, r8712u staging driver, included on Fedora Remix & Arch, must [http://www.element14.com/community/servlet/JiveServlet/download/44948-8-97488/r8712u_ko.zip download] for Debian and install firmware-realtek from non-free squeeze repo (B) (not needed with latest Raspbian “wheezy” 2012-07-15: this Asus works N10 out of the box) Does not support nl80211 APIS, so hostapd won't work.
** [http://www.element14.com/community/docs/DOC-44703 USB-N13] USB ID 0b05:17ab, works with [http://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-raspberry-pi-educational-linux-distro/occidentalis-v0-dot-1 Adafruit Occidentalis v0.1 image] as it includes kernel [http://www.element14.com/community/message/57635#57660 with 8192u driver built-in] (B)
** WL-167G v1 USB ID 0b05:1706, Ralink RT2571 working out-of-the-box on Debian image from 2012-04-19. Requires powered hub, otherwise it is detected by OS but will not function.
** WL-167G v3 USB ID 0b05:1791, working out-of-the-box on Linux raspberrypi 3.2.27+ #160 PREEMPT Mon Sep 17. Does not require powered hub.

* '''AusPi Technologies'''
** AusPi Wireless Adapter [Realtek RTL8188S]. Works without a powered HUB. Tested on OpenELEC (works OOB), RaspBMC (works OOB), XBian (works OOB) and 2012-08-08 Raspbian Wheezy (works OOB). Distributed in Australia by [http://www.buyraspberrypi.com.au/raspberry-pi-802-11bgn-usb-wireless-dongle/ Buy Raspberry Pi Australia].

* '''Belkin'''
** Belkin Components F5D7050 Wireless G Adapter v3000 [Ralink RT2571W]. On Debian requires the firmware-ralink package from the non-free repository. The usbcore module needs to be added to /etc/modules [http://www.penguintutor.com/blog/viewblog.php?blog=6281 install instructions].
** Belkin Components F5D8053 ver.6001 Wireless N Adapter [Realtek RTL8188SU]. Tested on OpenELEC (works OOB), RaspBMC (works OOB), Raspian - 2012-07-15-wheezy-raspbian (followed [http://forum.xbian.org/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=29 instructions here]) '''Powered hub required!'''
** Belkin Components F5D8053 ver.6001 Wireless N Adapter [Realtek RTL8188SU]. Works on RaspBMC OOB (with NetworkManager plugin). Works WITHOUT powered hub on 5v 800mA power with 6 overvolt (nothing else connected to USB)
** Belkin Components F7D1101 v1 Basic Wireless Adapter [Realtek RTL8188SU] USB ID 050d:945a, r8712u staging driver, included on Fedora Remix & Arch, must [http://www.element14.com/community/servlet/JiveServlet/download/44948-8-97488/r8712u_ko.zip download] for Debian and install firmware-realtek from non-free squeeze repo (B)
**Belkin Components F6D4050 V1 [Realtek RT3070] USB ID: 050d:935a Driver: RT3572STA(recommended),RT2800USB,RT2870STA. Tested under Arch using [https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/Setting_Up_Belkin_F6D4050_Wireless_USB_Dongles this] guide.
**Belkin Components F6D4050 V1/V2 [Realtek RT3070] USB ID: 050d:935a / 935b Driver: RT3572STA. Tested with Raspbian - See [http://iggy82.blogspot.co.uk/2012/08/wireless-n-raspberry-pi-belkin-f6d4050.html installation instructions] - Powered hub not required!
** Belkin Components F7D2102 "N300" Micro Wireless USB adapter. Tested with Occidentalis 0.1. Tested and working on Rasbian wheezy (and RaspBMC), driver RTL8192CU, no powered hub needed (dongle directly attached to the onboard ports)
** Belkin Components F9L1001v1 "N150" Wireless USB Adapter. Tested and working on Rasbian wheezy WITHOUT powered hub.
** Belkin Surf Micro WLAN USB-Adapter (Raspbian Wheezy, unpowered hub, "N150")

* '''BlueProton'''
** [http://www.element14.com/community/docs/DOC-44703 BT3] USB ID: 0bda:8187; tested on Debian, Fedora & Arch; rtl8187 driver (B)

* '''Buffalo'''
** USB ID: 0411:01A2 WLI-UC-GNM - Tested on Raspbmc; rt2800usb driver

* '''Conceptronic'''
** C300RU. Works out of the box in Raspbian. Causes reboot when plugging on a live Rev. 2 RPi

* '''Conrad'''
** WLAN Stick N150 mini. Works out of the box in OpenELEC, [http://www.t3node.com/blog/sempre-wireless-usb-stick-wu300-2-on-raspberry-pi/ requires firmware-realtek and r8712u kernel module on Debian].
** WLAN Stick N150 Nano [Realtek RTL8188CUS]. Requires a powered USB hub. See Micronet SP907NS for installation instructions and script.

* '''DIGICOM'''
** USBWAVE54 [chipset Zydas ZD1211] . [[http://www.digicom.it/digisit/prodotti.nsf/itprodottiidx/UsbWave54]] Works out of the box in OpenELEC. With Raspbian or Debian squeezy/wheezy works with zd1211-firmware .
** USBWAVE300C [chipset Ralink 2870] . [[http://www.digicom.it/digisit/prodotti.nsf/itprodottiidx/UsbWave300c]] Works out of the box in OpenELEC. With Raspbian or Debian squeezy/wheezy works with firmware-ralink .

* '''D-Link'''
** AirPlus G DWL-G122 (rev. E). USB ID 07d1:3c0f, Ralink RT2870. On Debian requires the <code>firmware-ralink</code> package from the <code>squeeze-firmware</code> non-free repository. (However I experience total crashes on raspbian 2012-07-15 after a few minutes of load on the wlan. Will have to investigate via serial console.)
** AirPlus G DWL-G122 (rev. C). USB ID 07d1:3c03, Ralink RT2571. Working out-of-the-box on Arch image from 2012-04-29.
** AirPlus G DWL-G122 (rev. B1). USB ID 2001:3c00, Ralink RT2571. Working out-of-the-box on Arch image from 2012-06-13.
** DWA-110 (Version A1). Requires the ralink package from the non-free repository on Debian.
** DWA-121 (Version A1). Wireless N 150 Pico. Works out-of-the-box with Raspian Wheezy (2012-09-18) and Raspbmc (2012-11-06) using Network-Manager addon (see Program - Addons)
** DWA-123 (Version A1). USB ID 2001:3c17, Ralink RT2800. Working out-of-the-box on Arch image from 2012-04-29. (working without UBS Hub - not yet sure if it achieves full speed though.)
** DWA-131 USB ID 07d1:3303,Realtek RTL8192SU, 802.11n Wireless N Nano. Works out of the box on Raspbian “wheezy”. Verified with direct USB : no powered USB hub needed. Also verified when Nano used in powered USB hub. Someone had trouble configuring SSID/Passphrase in etc/network/interfaces file. But no problem & very easy to configure using wicd : wicd is a gui interface on LXDE for network configuration. Install it using command-line : <code>apt-get install wicd</code>. Once configured ith wicd to auto-run on boot, no need to turn back to LXDE. Recommended.
** DWA-140 (Version B1). USB ID 07d1:3c09, Ralink RT2870. On Debian requires the <code>firmware-ralink</code> package from the <code>squeeze-firmware</code> non-free repository.
** DWA-140 (Version B2). USB ID 07d1:3c0a, Ralink RT3072. Workaround for faulty firmware binary: Place file rt2870.bin from [https://launchpad.net/ubuntu/oneiric/+source/linux-firmware/1.53/+files/linux-firmware_1.53.tar.gz linux-firmware_1.53.tar.gz] in /lib/firmware. [https://bugs.launchpad.net/ubuntu/+source/linux-firmware/+bug/770232 Explanation].
** DWA-160 (Version B1). USB ID 07d1:3c11, Ralink RT2870. On Debian requires the <code>firmware-ralink</code> package from the <code>squeeze-firmware</code> non-free repository.
** DWA-160 (Version A2). USB ID 07d1:3a09, Atheros AR9170. (NOTE: I can only get it to work through powered USB hub) requires carl9170-fw firmware [http://http://aur.archlinux.org/packages.php/packages.php?ID=44102]

* '''Edimax'''
** [http://www.edimax.co.uk/en/produce_detail.php?pd_id=328&pl1_id=1&pl2_id=44 EW-7811Un] USB ID 7392:7811, RTL8192CU, driver blob [http://www.electrictea.co.uk/rpi/8192cu.tar.gz download] via [http://www.element14.com/community/docs/DOC-44703 Element14], works with WPA2-AES-CCMP ([http://www.ctrl-alt-del.cc/2012/05/raspberry-pi-meets-edimax-ew-7811un-wireless-ada.html howto]) (B) - [http://dl.dropbox.com/u/80256631/8192cu-latest.tar.gz Alternative driver download link that works with Raspian]. Note: With current raspbian (2012-09-18-wheezy) it is recognized immediately, the default module works fine; the configuration is easy using wireless-essid and wireless-key in /etc/network/interfaces.
** The EW-7811Un can be powered directly from the Raspberry Pi if the Raspberry Pi is powered using a well regulated power supply.
** A script-based installation for the [http://www.edimax.co.uk/en/produce_detail.php?pd_id=328&pl1_id=1&pl2_id=44 EW-7811Un] by MrEngman can be found [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=6256&hilit=edimax on the RasPi forums]. Tested with Debian Squeeze and Raspbian. [http://dl.dropbox.com/u/80256631/install-rtl8188cus.txt An installation guide can be found here.]
** Instructions for getting the [http://www.edimax.co.uk/en/produce_detail.php?pd_id=328&pl1_id=1&pl2_id=44 EW-7811Un] working in Raspbmc (tested RC3) can be found [http://forum.stmlabs.com/showthread.php?tid=780 here].
** Simple step-by-step instructions for [http://www.edimax.co.uk/en/produce_detail.php?pd_id=328&pl1_id=1&pl2_id=44 EW-7811Un] which uses the RTL8192 chipset [[RPi_edimax_EW-7811Un]](B)
** [http://www.edimax.com/en/produce_detail.php?pd_id=8&pl1_id=1&pl2_id=44 EW-7318USg] USB ID 148f:2573, rt73usb. RT2573 chipset. Works with powered usb-hub or shorted polyfuses.
** [http://www.edimax.co.uk/en/produce_detail.php?pd_id=261&pl1_id=1&pl2_id=44 EW-7711UAn], Ralink RT2870, works perfectly on Arch with a powered hub (not tested without yet). Simply required wireless_tools and wpa_supplicant, the drivers/firmware are included in kernel 3.0. I followed the Arch [https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/Wireless_Setup Wireless Setup] instructions.

* '''edup'''
** [[http://www2.buyincoins.com/details/usb-150m-wifi-wireless-lan-network-card-adapter-antenna-product-1916.html Edup 150MBPS wifi adapter]] USB ID: 148f:5370 Ralink Technology, Corp. RT5370 Wireless Adapter. Driver is the RT2800USB module, I had to install the firmware as rt2870.bin in /lib/firmware.([http://raspberry-pi-notes.blogspot.com/2012/05/rt5370-cheap-micro-usb-wireless-dongle.html requires firmware-ralink from wheezy]) (B)
** [http://dx.com/p/ultra-mini-nano-usb-2-0-802-11n-150mbps-wifi-wlan-wireless-network-adapter-48166?item=1&Utm_rid=24958662&Utm_source=affiliate Ultra-Mini Nano USB 2.0 802.11n 150Mbps Wifi/WLAN Wireless Network Adapter] USB ID: ID 0bda:8176 Works stable when using VLC for internet radio receiver. Works stable 24/7 on two of my Raspberries used as webserver. Use method shown [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=7471&p=91736 here] for debian.

** [http://www.szedup.com/show.aspx?id=1681 edup nano EP-N8508] Use method shown [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=7471&p=91736 here] for debian. Requires powered USB hub for adequate power. When directly powered by Pi, it fails after a few minutes. (B) Unusable with analog audio because when data is being send or recieved the audio get disorted.

* '''Eminent'''
** EM4575 - rt2800usb driver.

* '''EnGenius'''
** EUB9603 EXT - Realtek r8712u driver

* '''Gigabyte'''
** Gigabyte GN-WB32L 802.11n USB WLAN Card. Works with the rt2800usb driver.

* '''GMYLE'''
** Wireless 11n USB Adapter. Uses RTL8188CUS chipset - cheap on eBay. Installs and works using the install-rtl8188cus-latest.sh script.

* '''IOGear'''
** [http://www.element14.com/community/docs/DOC-44703 GWU625] USB ID 0bda:8172, r8712u staging driver, included on Fedora Remix & Arch, must [http://www.element14.com/community/servlet/JiveServlet/download/44948-8-97488/r8712u_ko.zip download] for Debian Squeeze and install firmware-realtek from non-free squeeze repo. No need to download firmware when using Debian Wheezy (B)

* '''Linksys'''
** Linksys (Cisco) WUSB100 ver.2 1737:0078, tested on raspbian; follow [http://www.brucalipto.org/linux/the-raspberry-diary-wusb100-wireless-n/ Brucalipto.org] instructions; not stress tested but works without issues for light network load.
** Linksys (Cisco) WUSB600N, test on raspbian, details [http://elibtronic.ca/content/20120731/raspberry-pi-part-1-wifi-support here]
** Linksys WUSB54GC (manufactured 07/2008) No issues! needs powered hub on version 1.0 boards.

* '''LogiLink'''
** Wireless LAN USB 2.0 Nano Adapter 802.11n LogiLink [http://www.logilink.eu/showproduct/WL0084B.htm] is working even usb powered.

* '''Micronet'''
** Micronet SP907NS, 11N Wireless LAN USB Adapter (uses Realtek RTL8188CUS) works plugged directly into R-Pi USB (B) [http://dl.dropbox.com/u/80256631/install-rtl8188cus.txt Debian installation instructions] IMPORTANT: read the instructions first to avoid problems, and [http://dl.dropbox.com/u/80256631/install-rtl8188cus-latest.sh Auto-install script]. The script has been used to install other adapters using the RTL8188CUS chip. [http://dl.dropbox.com/u/80256631/8192cu-latest.tar.gz Updated driver] that handles the latest rpi-updates that kill the original driver, download for manual installation, automatically installed by the Auto-install script.

* '''MSI'''
** 0db0:6861 MSI-6861 802.11g WiFi adapter (US54G): works with external powered USB hub, requires firmware from [http://sourceforge.net/projects/zd1211/files/zd1211-firmware/ here], power management must be disabled: <code>iwconfig wlan0 power off</code>

* '''Mvix'''
** Mvix Nubbin (MS-811N): works out of the box on Raspbian "wheezy" and does not need a powered USB hub.

* '''Netgear'''
** N150: Reported as WNA1100 device, uses the Atheros ar9271 chipset. On Debian, requires the <code>firmware-atheros</code> package from the <code>squeeze-backports</code> non-free repository (!)
** N150: Some versions reported as Realtek RTL8188CUS device. Read Micronet entry above and use RTL8188CUS script for installation. Works best plugged into powered USB hub.
** WG111v1: Prism54 chipset. Needs powered hub. Follow info for Prism54 chipset on Debian wiki.
** WG111v2: Realtek rtl8187 chipset. Seems to draw a lot of power; e.g. I can't power this and a USB thumb drive simultaneously.

* '''OvisLink'''
** Evo-W300USB: USB ID 148f:2270 Ralink Technology RT2770. apt-get install firmware-ralink

* '''Patriot Memory'''
** [http://patriotmemory.com/products/detailp.jsp?prodline=6&catid=69&prodgroupid=163&id=1198&type=20 PCUSBW1150] Wireless 11N USB adapter (uses Realtek RTL8188CUS) Install using Micronet script. Works only through powered usb hub.
** [http://www.patriotmemory.com/products/detailp.jsp?prodline=6&catid=69&prodgroupid=163&id=973&type=20 PCBOWAU2-N] Wireless 11N USB adapter (uses Realtek RTL8191SU chip) Installed using r8712u Kernel module

* '''Ralink'''
** inner 02 joggler wifi usb RT2770F USB-ID 148f:2770 (firmware-ralink required) (only got dhcp on powered hub)
** [http://www.dx.com/p/24688 RT2070] USB-ID 148f:2070 firmware is already loaded into Raspbian. For Debian, the firmware must be installed ([http://wiki.debian.org/rt2870sta instructions]). Needs a powered USB hub.
** RT3070 USB-ID 148f:3070 firmware is already loaded into Raspbian.
** [http://www.element14.com/community/docs/DOC-44703 RT2501/RT2573] USB-ID 148f:2573 (firmware-ralink required) (B)
** RT5370 USB-ID 148f:5370 ([http://raspberry-pi-notes.blogspot.com/2012/05/rt5370-cheap-micro-usb-wireless-dongle.html requires firmware-ralink from wheezy]) [[RPi_Ralink_WLAN_devices]](B). An image of an adapter with this chip can be found [http://i.imgur.com/wRF7L.jpg here].

* '''Rosewill'''
** RNX-N180UBE Wireless B/G/N Adapter
*** Realtek RTL8191SU chipset, USB-ID 0bda:8172
*** Tested in Arch, works out of box. Powered USB hub required.
*** Tested in Raspbian, used wicd to configure network settings. Powered USB hub Required.
*** Tested in Raspbmc. Needs package firmware-realtek and used wicd-curses to configure. Powered USB hub required
** RNX-G1 Wireless B/G Adapter
*** Realtek RTL8187 chipset, USB-ID 0bda:8187
*** Tested in Arch, works out of box. USB hub required.
** RNX-MiniN1 (RWLD-110001) Wireless-N 2.0 Dongle (Realtek Semiconductor Corp. RTL8188CUS 802.11n WLAN Adapter)
*** Tested in Raspbian, powered from USB hub.

* '''Sagem'''
** Sagem Wireless USB stick XG-760N : USB ID 079b:0062, Module is not shipped in Debian image, but can be "sudo apt-get install zd1211-firmware"

* '''Sempre'''
** Sempre Wireless USB stick WU300-2: USB ID 0bda:8172, Realtek r8712u driver + firmware-realtek package. Module is shipped in Raspbian image. If you need to build it for other distros, read this: http://www.t3node.com/blog/sempre-wireless-usb-stick-wu300-2-on-raspberry-pi/

* '''SL'''
** SL-1507N: USB 802.11n 150M WiFi Wireless Lan Network Card Adapter SL-1507N Black
*** I bought this on on eBay for $4.19 (free shipping) @ http://www.ebay.com/itm/270853614804?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_4379wt_1199
*** It worked out of the box on Raspbmc RC4, with the network manager add-on; seems to be an rt2800usb
*** dmesg output "usbcore: registered new interface driver rt2800usb"

* '''SMC'''
** SMCWUSBS-N : Hardware detected as rt2800 but missing firmware; "sudo apt-get install firmware-ralink" fixed it
** SMCWUSB-G : Gives "couldn't load firmware" error. "sudo apt-get install zd1211-firmware" fixes it.

* '''Sony'''
** Sony UWA-BR100 802.11abgn Wireless Adapter [Atheros AR7010+AR9280] (Vendor ID: 0411, Product ID: 017f) - Tested with Raspbian. Needs package firmware-atheros.(B)

* '''Tenda'''
** USB 11n adapter on a G network: Ralink 2870/3070 driver (!)
** Tenda W311U Mini 11N Wireless USB Adapter (USB-ID 148f:3070): Ralink 2870/3070 driver; needs powered hub. [http://blog.modmypi.com/2012/06/installing-tenda-w311u-mini-wireless.html Debian installation instructions]
** Tenda W311U+ Wireless USB Adapter - Tested with Raspian.

*'''The Pi Hut'''
** USB 802.11n WIFI adapter (from [http://thepihut.com/products/usb-wifi-adapter-for-the-raspberry-pi The Pi Hut's Raspberry Pi Store])

* '''TP-Link'''
** TL-WN422G v2 (ath9k_htc) Works OOTB in Debian Wheezy Beta. Runs without powered Hub when plugged into running RasPi, but the RasPi won't boot while the stick is plugged in.
** TL-WN721N (ath9k_htc device with htc_9271.fw file from http://linuxwireless.org/download/htc_fw/1.3/htc_9271.fw); needs powered USB Hub (B) | works OOTB with wheezy raspbian (2012-08-16) connected directly to raspberry pi (B) and AP functionality tested with hostapd.
** TL-WN722N (ath9k_htc device with htc_9271.fw file from http://linuxwireless.org/download/htc_fw/1.3/htc_9271.fw); needs powered USB Hub (B)
** TL-WN723N (RTL8188SU); works OOTB with raspbian 2012-09-17, (B) stable with 1A PSU and without powered USB hub on r2.0.
** TL-WN821N v3 (ath9k_htc, htc_7010.fw); works out of the box on ArchLinuxARM and on OpenElec (>r11211), Problems with prior OpenElec; needs powered USB Hub (B)
** TL-WN823N Works out of box on Raspian using powered USB Hub

* '''Trendnet'''
** [http://www.wikidevi.com/wiki/TRENDnet_TEW-648UBM TEW-648UBM] USB ID: 20f4:648b, works OOTB with [http://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-raspberry-pi-educational-linux-distro/ Adafruit Occidentials Raspbian Wheezy variant] as it includes kernel with [http://www.wikidevi.com/wiki/Special:Ask?title=Special%3AAsk&q=%5B%5BChip1+model%3A%3ARTL8188CUS%5D%5D&po=%3FInterface%0D%0A%3FFCC+ID%0D%0A%3FVendor+ID%0D%0A%3FDevice+ID%0D%0A%3FChip1+model%0D%0A%3FSupported+802dot11+protocols%0D%0A%3FMIMO+status%0D%0A%3FOUI%0D%0A&sort_num=&order_num=ASC&eq=yes&p%5Bformat%5D=broadtable&p%5Blimit%5D=500&p%5Bsort%5D=&p%5Boffset%5D=&p%5Bheaders%5D=show&p%5Bmainlabel%5D=&p%5Blink%5D=all&p%5Bsearchlabel%5D=&p%5Bintro%5D=&p%5Boutro%5D=&p%5Bdefault%5D=&p%5Bclass%5D=sortable+wikitable+smwtable&eq=yes RTL8188CUS driver built-in] (B)

* '''Widemac'''
** RT5370 Wireless Adapter from [http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180887771838?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 Ebay] runs without powered hub. Follow these [http://elinux.org/RPi_Ralink_WLAN_devices instructions] but go to [http://ftp.de.debian.org/debian/pool/non-free/f/firmware-nonfree/ ftp.de.debian.org/debian/pool/non-free/f/firmware-nonfree/] and pick the latest firmware-ralink_0.xx_all.deb

* '''ZyXEL'''
** [http://www.element14.com/community/message/50015#50015/l/re-installing-kernel-headers-on-the-pi NWD2105] USB ID: 0586:341e, RT3070 chipset, rt2800usb driver (B)
** [http://www.zyxel.com/products_services/g_202.shtml G-202] model 0586:3410 ZyXEL Communications Corp. ZyAIR G-202 802.11bg using zd1211rw kernel module and zd1211-firmware package

===Problem USB Wifi Adapters===

These adapters were tested and found to have issues the Raspberry Pi. Note [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=6928] as a possible solution/explanation for errors while running LXDE.

* '''Alfa'''
** AWUS036NHA (Vendor ID: 0cf3, Product ID: 9271) - Tested with Raspbian. Works fine if connected after boot. Kills boot process if previously attached. [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=16809&p=169469#p169469 Details here.]

* '''EDIMAX'''
** EW-7811Un (Vendor ID: 7397, Product ID: 7811) - Reports as containing the Realtek RTL8188CUS chipset listed below, no lockup or kernal oops under wheezy but dmesg reports constant timeouts trying to initialize the module. This appears to be resolved on 2012-09-18-wheezy-raspbian and newer versions.

* '''Linksys'''
** WUSB300N (Vendor ID: 13B1, Product ID: 0029) - Tested with Raspbian, OpenELEC, among others. No Linux chipset support for Marvell 88W8362 at all.

* '''LogiLink'''
** WL0085 tested under debian (squeeze, wheezy, raspbian); no stable connection can be established. This gets even worse when X is running.

* '''MicroNEXT'''
** MN-WD152B (Debian image) modprobe hangs when plugged in, lsusb hangs. udevd errors in the logs. [http://www.element14.com/community/thread/17632] [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=6737]
*** Possible fix: try the new [http://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-raspberry-pi-educational-linux-distro/occidentalis-v0-dot-1 Adafruit Occidentalis v0.1] image (based on Raspbian Wheezy) as it includes the needed 8192cu driver builtin to the kernel

* '''Netgear'''
** WNDA3100v2 tested with debian (wheezy); no driver for broadcom chipset (see [http://www.wikidevi.com/wiki/Netgear_WNDA3100v2 http://www.wikidevi.com/wiki/Netgear_WNDA3100v2]).

* '''Realtek'''
** RTL8188CUS USB-ID 0bda:8176, kernel oops in dmesg and freeze when pulled from USB. (B)

* '''Trendnet'''
** [http://www.element14.com/community/docs/DOC-44703 TEW-424UB] USB ID: 0bda:8189; tested on Debian, Fedora & Arch; rtl8187 driver; errors with LXDE running (B)

* '''TP-Link'''
** [http://www.element14.com/community/docs/DOC-44703 TL-WN821N] USB ID: 0cf3:7015; tested on Debian; requires [http://linuxwireless.org/download/htc_fw/1.3/htc_7010.fw htc_7010.fw] firmware; ath9k_htc driver; errors with LXDE running (B)
** TL-WN723N USB ID: 0bda:8176; tested on Arch without a powered hub; it seems to draw too much current.

== USB Bluetooth adapters ==
===Working Bluetooth adapters===
* Asus USBIA-EG (paired with Asus Blutooth Keyboard/Media Center Remote
** Verified works error-free in Multiple Distros (Openelec, Raspbian, RaspBMC, Xbian) Latest builds eliminate text echo problems.
* Cambridge Silicon Radio, Ltd Bluetooth Dongle (HCI mode) - (USB ID 0a12:0001)
** Example of above is; TOPDIGI UA01 Bluetooth USB Dongle Plug and Play (install bluez package from std repos)
** Tesco own brand 'Technika' Nano Bluetooth Adaptor has the Cambridge Silicon Radio chipset and works fine, cost £5.97 at time of posting.
** Hama USB Bluetooth 3.0 adapter (Class 1) ~£10 on amazon.co.uk.
** Another sample: Product ID: 0a12:0001, pictured here: http://www.element14.com/community/message/58288
** RiiTek RT-MWK02+ - comes with a usb bluetooth adapter that works perfectly for both the RiiTek mini bluetooth keyboard/mouse and other bluetooth devices. Tested both on builtin USB and on powered USB hub. There are other RiiTek bluetooth (and non-bluetooth wireless) devices on the working list. Bluetooth adapter shows up in lsusb as "0a12:0001 Cambridge Silicon Radio" - this is notable as most other sources of this chipset do not seem to be available in the US.
* D-Link DBT-122, with ID 07d1:f101, using a Broadcom chip
** http://www.element14.com/community/message/58288
* IOGear GBU321 (Broadcom BCM2045 Chipset)
** Works with Raspbian Wheezy directly attached to Pi and via powered USB hub.
* Trust BT-2400p
** Working well with Raspbian Wheezy directly attached to Pi. Using with sma-bluetooth (SMA Solar Inverter reading software).

===Problem Bluetooth adapters===
* '''Belkin'''
** Belkin F8T017. Tested with Raspbian 2012-07-15 and bluez installed with apt-get. When dongle is inserted into Pluscom powered USB hub, my remote PuTTY session scrolls incredibly slowly (testing with ls -R to generate text). Suspect network issue. Lots of errors on dmesg too. Pi itself is responsive when using directly. On removal of the device everything goes back to normal.
* '''Generic'''
** [http://dx.com/p/mini-bluetooth-v3-0-usb-2-0-dongle-71248 Bluetooth "3.0" Dongle]. Doesn't work reliably - eg. after some time it will hang and the device will need to be reset using fcntl. The device id is 1131:1004 Integrated System Solution Corp. Bluetooth Device.
* Asus USB-BT211
** Shows up as HCI device in Raspbian, but does not scan or pair.
** http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=9962

== USB Ethernet adapters ==
===Working Ethernet adapters===
* '''AVM'''
** FRITZ!Box WLAN 3030 USB Ethernet Adapter: Works out of the box. No external power source needed.
* '''Wintech'''
** USB 2.0 LanCard Model: LAU-15 (CK0049C) using the mcs7830 driver. Probably needs more than 100 mA current. [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=8708#p106136]
* '''LogiLink'''
** USB 2.0 UA0144: AX88772 chipset using the asix kernel driver. Tested only on powered USB hub so far.
** LogiLink Fast EN USB 2.0 to RJ45 Adapter: Test on wheezy-Raspian (2012-08-16) without USB Hub will be confirmed
lsusb output: Bus 001 Device 004: ID 9710:7830 MosChip Semiconductor MCS7830 10/100 Mbps Ethernet adapter
* '''Apple'''
** Apple USB Ethernet Adapter using asix kernel driver. Works out of the box on Raspbian, haven't tested on any other OS.
* '''Edimax'''
** Edimax EU-4230 USB2.0 Fast Ethernet Adapter with 3 port USB hub. Works out of the box. Needs its own power source.
* '''D-Link'''
** D-Link DUB-E100 Fast Ethernet USB 2.0 Adapter - works out of the box, requires own power supply (from powered USB hub)
* '''A-Link'''
** A-Link NA1GU Gigabit USB 2.0 ethernet adapter
This adapter works, but (probably) requires a bit of work. The driver for the chipset (Asix AX88178) included with the Raspbian kernel (v 3.1.9+ Aug 7 2012) does '''not''' work. With that driver the device is detected, but it does not seem to be possible to actually put any traffic through it. :-( In order to make it work you need to download the latest driver from [http://www.asix.com.tw/products.php?op=pItemdetail&PItemID=84;71;100&PLine=71 the chipset manufacturer]. The version I used was "Linux kernel 3.x/2.6.x Driver" v4.4.0, released 2012-05-18. Fortunately this is GNU GPLv2 -licenced source code and not a binary blob, so compiling it for the Raspberry Pi is perfectly doable. The hardest part was in fact getting the Linux source code required, because the repositores contained the source for the wrong kernel version. >:-( Fortunately there is [https://www.grendelman.net/wp/compiling-kernel-modules-for-raspbian-raspberry-pi a very useful guide] for how to get the sources from github, and preparing that source so that you can compile modules. Unfortunately you will have to compile the kernel (even if you don't actually install it) - which will take the better part of the day on the Raspberry, but once that's done you can unpack the driver source and just run "make && sudo make install". Reboot and you should have a fully working ethernet adapter.

The adapter seems to work without a powered USB hub, but according to the specifications it can draw up to 190 mA, so there might be stability issues if additional power is not provided.

===Problem Ethernet adapters===
* Axago
** Axago ADE-X1 10/100 Ethernet Adapter (usb: 9710:7830 driver:mcs7830). Adapter working about 10 minutes without problem, but after that kernel write error message to dmesg and no packet is received. Needed to unplug and plug USB again. Tested with and without powered USB hub.

== USB Sound Cards ==
You will usually want the <code>alsa</code> package for sound. In the Debian image for Raspberry Pi (and possibly other distributions) USB sound cards are prevented from loading as the first sound card, which can be an annoyance if it's the only device you have. To disable this behaviour edit <code>/etc/modprobe.d/alsa-base.conf</code> and comment out the last line; <code>options snd-usb-audio index=-2</code> . If you are not user ''pi'' you may need to add your username to the ''audio'' group thus: <code>sudo adduser yourusername audio</code> (user ''pi'' usually belongs to this group anyway).

* '''Creative'''
** [http://asia.creative.com/products/product.asp?category=1&subcategory=207&product=17892 Sound Blaster Play!]
* '''Daffodil'''
** [http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002FI7GWK/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00 USB Sound Adapter US01]. Tested with low-cost headphone/microphone set via ''audacity'' (See notes at [http://www.cpmspectre.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/raspberry_pi/MoinMoinExport/DaffodilUSBSoundAdapter.html cpmspectre.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/raspberry_pi/MoinMoinExport/DaffodilUSBSoundAdapter]).
* '''Edirol'''
** [http://www.roland.com/products/en/UA-1A/ UA-1A]
* '''Hercules'''
** [http://www.hercules.com/fr/Cartes-Son/bdd/p/123/gamesurround-muse-xl-pocket-lt3/ Gamesurround Musel XL (Pocket LT3)]
* '''Logilink'''
** [http://www.logilink.de/showproduct/UA0053.htm?seticlanguage=en UA0053 USB Soundcard with Virtual 3D Soundeffects LogiLink]
* '''NuForce uDAC-2'''
** [http://www.nuforce.com/hp/products/iconudac2/index.php NuForce uDAC-2 Headphone Amplifier and USB DAC]
* '''Terratec'''
** [http://www.terratec.net/fr/produkte/Aureon_Dual_USB_12339.html Aureon Dual USB]
* '''Texas Instruments PCM2704'''
** [http://www.ti.com/product/pcm2704 PCM2704 98dB SNR Stereo USB2.0 FS DAC with line-out and S/PDIF output, Bus/Self-powered]

==USB 3G Dongles==
* Huawei E173
* Huawei E220
* Huawei E160 (AT commands only)
* Franklin U600 from Sprint / VirginMobile
** Use usb_modeswitch and vendor 0x1fac and product 0x0150/0x0151
* Digicom Internet Key 7.2 HSUPA '''MU372-L01''' [http://www.digicom.it/digisit/prodotti.nsf/itprodottiidx/MU372L01]
Tested on Raspbian and Archlinux. Detected as 230d:0001. Works with cdc_acm driver. Install usb_modeswitch.
There are 2 "com ports"( /dev/ttyACM0 and /dev/ttyACM1 ) . Tested with Network Manager.Works also perfectly with SAKYS3G [http://www.sakis3g.org/] tools (!! led is always off !!) and wvdial. A working wvdial.conf : http://ubuntuforums.org/showpost.php?p=10361881&postcount=28 . (for example for Vodafone IT , replace Init3 with this : Init3 = AT+CGDCONT=1,"IP","web.omnitel.it" and replace line Modem = /dev/ttyUSB0 with Modem = /dev/ttyACM1 ) and run with wvdial voda .

== USB IR Receivers==
SMK Manufacturing, Inc. eHome Infrared Receiver (Works out of the box with OpenELEC)

== USB Radio devices==
*FM Radio
** ADS InstantFM Music - FM radio tuner works fine under debian.

== USB TV Tuners and DVB devices==
*August
**DVB-T205, based on rtl2832u chipset, working with [https://github.com/ambrosa/DVB-Realtek-RTL2832U-2.2.2-10tuner-mod_kernel-3.0.0 this driver]. Tested with Saorview (Irish DTT service), both HD & SD.
*DVBSky
**[http://dvbsky.eu/Products_S860.html Mystique SaTiX-S2 Sky USB]: Scanning/watching SD and HD works via vdr and streamdev plugin, watching on the Pi directly is laggy as hell. DVB-USB and I2C support must be enabled in the kernel. Needs drivers/firmware from [http://dvbsky.eu/Support.html here].
*Sundtek
**Sundtek MediaTV Digital Home
**Sundtek MediaTV Pro
**Sundtek SkyTV Ultimate
**[http://shop.sundtek.de DVB-C, DVB-T, DVB-S/S2]: digital TV works, streaming to Windows / Linux is no problem. Easy installation [http://support.sundtek.com/index.php/topic,4.0.html English]
*Hauppauge
** Hauppauge NOVA-T Stick (Revision 70xxx) DiBcom DiB0700 chipset, requires powered hub.
** Hauppauge NOVA-TD Stick (Revision 52xxx) DiBcom DiB0700 chipset, requires powered hub.
** Hauppauge WinTV-HVR-1950 (tested analog tuner with omxplayer)
** Hauppauge WinTV-HVR-950Q (tested Digital OTA with TVHeadend in Raspbian)
*K-World
** K-World UB499-2T Dual DVB-T USB Tuner. IT9137 chipset. With no other USB devices connected Pi can just about power this stick. IR and supplied remote work with XBMC.
*Technisat
**Technisat_SkyStar_USB_HD. Instructions: http://www.linuxtv.org/wiki/index.php/Technisat_SkyStar_USB_HD Used the Pi to receive and redirect it via network to another host. Didn't try to play back the stream on the Pi itself. Tested with Astra 19.2E radio and SD-TV channels
*Generic
** [http://www.onsources.com/product_images/a/757/watch_and_record_digital_tv_dongle__44323_zoom.jpg DVB-T USB Dongle (Silver casing)], based on AF9015 chipset.
** [http://www.electrodepot.fr/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/500x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/P926993.jpg DVB-T USB Dongle], based on RTL2832 FC12 (HD/SD), IR detected but not tested

== USB Webcams ==

Debian image is missing v4l kernel modules, so video devices are not available. Kernel and firmware upgrade can possibly be used to fix this[http://blog.pixelami.com/2012/06/raspberry-pi-firmware-update-for-debian-squeeze/].

===Working USB Webcams===
*'''Creative'''
**Creative VF0470 Live! (works out of the box on ArchLinux)
**Creative VF0260 Live! Cam Vista IM (works out of the box)
**Creative VF0640 Live! Cam Socialize (works on Raspbian at 320x240 resolution, 15fps)
**Webcam Notebook PD1170 (detects, untested)

*'''HP'''
**Webcam HD-2200 [http://www.amazon.com/HP-Webcam-HD-2200-BR384AA-ABA/dp/B004UR9P9Q/ (Amazon)] [http://shopping.hp.com/en_US/home-office/-/products/Electronics/Webcams/BR384AA?HP-HD-2200-Webcam (HP)] [http://www.walmart.com/ip/HP-Webcam-HD-2200/16775645 (Walmart)]
**Webcam HP-3100 - UVCVideo /dev/video0 Needs chmod to 666 to operate. Will work without hub if only device in USB ports. Works with both Arch and wheezy out of the box

*'''Logitech'''
**Webcam C100 Model Number V-U0013 (works fine without powered hub - Tested on 2012-08-16-wheezy-raspbian image - motion detection was good - video streaming was really slow might be unusable)
**Webcam C200
**Webcam C270 (with external power)
**Webcam C310 does not require a powered hub to capture snapshots
**Webcam C510
**Webcam C525 (works fine without powered hub)
**HD Webcam C615 (works fine without powered hub)
**Webcam C910 (with external power, is uncvideo)
**Webcam C920 (with powered hub, detected out of box on Raspain as Video0 V4L device)
**QuickCam Orbit/Sphere USB webcam (ext. power)
**QuickCam Pro 9000 - powered by Raspi, working on debian wheezy
**Webcam Pro 9000 (046d:0809), powered by RPi (measured ~120 mA capturing at ~5 fps), works on Arch

*'''Medion'''
** MD86511 - powered by Raspi, working on Raspbian “wheezy” from 2012-07-15

*'''Microsoft'''
**Xbox Live Vision camera (045e:0294), powered by Raspi, working on Arch
**LifeCam Cinema 720p USB HD Webcam H5D-00001 - Powered by USB Hub. Working on Raspbian "wheezy"
**LifeCam HD-6000 - Powered by Raspberry Pi. Working on Raspbian "wheezy" (2012-07-15)
**LifeCam NX-6000 - Powered by Raspberry Pi. Working on Debian "wheezy"
**LifeCam VX-7000 - Powered by USB Hub. Working on Raspian "wheezy"
**LifeCam VX-3000 - On "raspbian" wheezy (though there do appear to be some issues with image quality and getting partial frames and such, with fswebcam)
**LifeCam VX-800 - Powered by Raspberry Pi. Working out of the box on Raspbian [http://www.amazon.it/Microsoft-JSD-00008-LifeCam-VX-800/dp/B0057FWVSC (Amazon)] Doesn't work at full 640 * 480 resolution but OK at 352 * 288.

*'''Sony'''
**PlayStation Eye (for PlayStation 3) (the occasional frame is corrupted/stutters when running at 640x480)
**PlayStation Eyetoy (for PlayStation 2) (Occasional 'mangled frame' directly connected to Rev 2 Pi)

*'''Trust'''
** 2MP Auto Focus Webcam (works out of the box on ArchLinux)

===Problem USB Webcams===

*'''Creative'''
**WebCam Pro / PD1030 - ov519 driver crashes almost immediately. ("gspca: ISOC data error: [0] len=0, status=-4004")

*'''Logitech'''
**Webcam Pro 9000 - Has issues capturing images at higher than default resolutions (using motion - Arch and Debian).
**Webcam Pro 4000 - It uses pwc driver which does not work. Maybe it's because of general Raspi USB bug.

*'''Microsoft'''
**Lifecam HD5000 - Picture breaks up at the bottom
**LifeCam Studio/Cinema - Has UVC issues detailed here [http://www.ideasonboard.org/uvc/#devices]. Horizontal lines problem [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=63&t=12304]. Stability issues [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=63&t=12247].

*'''Sony'''
**Eye Toy (PlayStation 2) model SLEH 00030 - (OV519 camera). Picture constantly breaks up on xawtv and wxcam under Arch Linux. Noted there were ISOC data error len=0 status=-4004 errors in dmesg. This happens when powered from the Pi and when powered from a Pluscom USB hub. Arch was updated on 17th July 2012

*'''Trust'''
**SPACEC@M 200 - (OV511 camera). Picture stops after a few seconds in xawtv under Arch Linux and xawtv reports libv4l2 errors. This happens when powered from the Pi and when powered from a Pluscom USB Hub. Arch was updated on 17th July 2012

== USB GPS devices ==
*Royaltek
**Royaltek RGM 2000 SiRF2 using the included serial (TTL) to USB - converter. That uses a Profilic pl2303-chip so you'll need to compile the module or the kernel manually
*Garmin
**Garmin eTrex Vista HCx: Works but may draw much power. To get it working (software part): https://wiki.openstreetmap.org/wiki/USB_Garmin_on_GNU/Linux
*GlobalSat
**GlobalSat BU-353 Does not require a powered hub, works fine when directly plugged into the RPi. On Raspian, requires the gpsd and gpsd-client packages. For some reason, the gpsd daemon does not always start correctly on boot. You may need to do something like the following to manually restart it: <pre>sudo killall gpsd; sudo gpsd /dev/ttyUSB0 -F /var/run/gpsd.sock</pre>

*Wintec
**WBT-200: No problem on Debian
*Holux
**Holux M-215: Works fine on Arch, uses Silicon Labs CP210x RS232 serial adaptor driver
*Bluenext
**Bluenext BN903S: No problem on Debian image (19-04-2012).

== USB UART and USB to Serial (RS-232) adapters ==
A USB UART adapter is used to access the serial console of the Raspberry Pi from a development host such as a laptop or desktop PC. The USB end connects to the PC and the UART header end connects to the USB. While it is possible to connect the USB end to another Raspberry Pi, this configuration has not been tested unless explicitly mentioned against an individual entry below.

*'''FTDI'''
**FT232 chip based adapters works for some people but others find it hangs Linux when the port is opened. module is ftdi_sio

** FT2232D dual RS232/FIFO works (used in various JTAG devices)

*'''Prolific'''
**PL2303 chip based adaptors works fine on latest Debian tested with ''minicom'' and ''gtkterm''

A USB to Serial (RS-232) adapter is used the other way around, ie. the USB end connects to the Raspberry Pi and the RS-232 end (DSUB-9 or DSUB-25 pin) to the other device which may be another computer, (old) modem or printer, or some electronic test equipment.

*"Best Connectivity" (Possibly also sold under the "Newlink HQ" or "Kenable HQ" labels)
**FG-U1232-PL2 Based upon the Prolific PL2303X chipset and listed by ''lsusb'' as <code>ID 067b:2303 Prolific Technology, Inc. PL2303 Serial Port</code>. Appears as <code>/dev/ttyUSB0</code>, and requires the user to be a member of the ''dialout'' group (which ''pi'' is for ''Raspbian Wheezy''). Initially tested using an old RS Datalinker setup in "loopback" mode via ''microcom'' upto 9600 baud, and ''gtkterm'' after installing that from source code. All handshake lines toggled as expected and no characters were lost. Subsequently ''gtkterm'' was used to check bi-directional communication with an ancient brother EP44 electronic typewriter (as a printer/dumb terminal) at 1200 baud. Signal lines were again monitored with the Datalinker.

== Other, exotic USB devices ==
=== USB to SATA ===
*'''Nippon Labs'''
** 2.5" SATA HDD USB Adapter with silicone HDD sleeve. Model: USB-ADT-25SATA. Works on powered Hub, not directly to Raspberry Pi. Built-in "Y" power adapter.

=== CAN Bus ===
*PEAK-System (www.peak-system.com)
**PCAN-USB using the driver (kernel module) from http://www.peak-system.com/fileadmin/media/linux/index.htm
=== Home automation ===
*Tellstick (www.telldus.com), installation [[R-Pi_Tellstick_core|instructions]]
**Depends on libftdi1

=== Touch Screen ===
*ACER T230H touch screen [http://support.acer.com/acerpanam/monitor/2009/acer/t230h/t230hnv.shtml]
**USB TS identifies as "Quanta Computer, Inc. Optical dual-touch panel", module hid_quanta
**Seems to draw over 200 mA from USB!
=== Floppy Disk Drive ===
*Samsung USB Floppy Drive SFD-321U/HP
**I suppose a floppy drive might be considered exotic nowadays!
**LSUSB lists it as Samsung Electro-Mechanics Co. Floppy Disk Drive
**Only tried connected to a powered USB hub, as the drive is labelled 5V at 0.5A on a Raspberry Pi running Debian Wheezy.
**tail -f /var/log/syslog looking for mount device when plugged in, came up as SDA in testing.
**sudo mkdir /media/floppy
**sudo mount /dev/sda /media/floppy
**Contents of floppy now available in /media/floppy
**To remove drive, ensure no sessions have the floppy directory as the current working directory.
**sudo umount /media/floppy
=== USB Missile Launcher ===
*USB Missile Launcher / Rocket Launcher sold in UK by Marks and Spencer but also sold under a range of other names.
**USB ID 1130:0202 Tenx Technology, Inc. Use apt-get install pymissile (python code) and there is C code at [http://sourceforge.net/projects/usbmissile/ usbmissile from Source Forge]
=== USB Docking Stations ===
*StarTech USB 3.0 to Dual 2.5"/3.5" SATA HDD Dock (SATDOCK2U3GB)
**This is an externally powered dual sata HDD docking station, which has USB2.0 compatibility with the Pi.
**Tested with latest raspbmc and debian wheezy raspbian, 3.1.9+ #168
=== USB RFID Reader ===
*Unbranded 125KHz EM4100 RFID reader from eBay sellers (< £7), the one with a Windows logo on (easily scratches off for Linux users).
**Initially would not work when plugged in directly to RPi. Worked when connected via an unpowered Trust hub. Worked after RPi was modified with 10K resistors over the USB polyfuses (warranty invalidated). Probably would work fine with powered hub.
**Sends a 10 digit string to current window or console as if it was a keyboard. Can be captured independently of keyboard using Linux event interface (/dev/input) but kernel in current distributions does not have CONFIG_INPUT_EVDEV selected so kernel rebuild is necessary.
=== JTAG ===
* FTDI2232D dual RS232/FIFO based JTAG (e.g. SheevaPlug JTAGKey USB-ID 9e88:9e8f)
** works using the RPi as a development host
=== USB 3.0 Multi-Card Reader ===
* US Robotics All-In-One Multi-Format Card Reader (Product # USR8420) Accepts 5 cards simultaneously
** SD/MMC + MS/MS PRO or DUO/DUO PRO + CF/MD + SM + SD/MMC or MS/MS PRO. Useful for backing up cards containing other OS Distros

== PS2 / AT to USB Converters ==

* Unbranded active converter known as the "blue cube". Based on the Cypress CY7C63723C 8 bit RISC. Please see http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=PS2-to-USB+adapters for more information.
Note that although the adapter might work, PS/2 keyboards were not designed to be low power USB devices, so they might not meet the requirement to work with considerable lowered supply voltage (4.4 volt) provided by the USB ports of the raspberry PI. These keyboards should work when powered by a powered hub.

'''Tested PS2/AT keybords'''

All above tested with the famous "blue cube" on a powered USB hub.

*IBM Model F (please note requires an additional AT to PS2 converter)
*Dell AT101w
*Northgate Ominikey Ultra T (please note requires an aditonal AT to PS2 converter)

* 04d9:1400 Holtek Semiconductor, Inc. PS/2 keyboard + mouse controller
** Working: Ipex RT215KTW PS/2 keyboard
** Not working: HP SK-2502 PS/2 keyboard (gets power but does not init - three LEDs remain permanently lit. Keyboard + Holtek converter work on a Linux PC, although this keyboard doesn't work with some native PS/2 ports.)

== Power adapters ==
The Raspberry Pi uses a standard Micro USB (type B) power connector, which runs at 5v. Generally you can use a MicroUSB to USB cable and then either power the Raspberry Pi directly from your main computers USB ports (if they provide enough power), or by using a USB to Mains adaptor. A number of mobile phones use MicroUSB power cables, and these are compatible with the Raspberry Pi in most cases. Below is a list of power adaptors known to work.

===Working power Adapters===
* '''AlcaPower'''
** 5V 2.5A Model AP5A - Charger/switching with 7 connectors(also Microusb)
* '''Ansmann'''
*** Dual USB charger slim, Model-Nr. 1201-0001
* '''Apple'''
** 5V 2.1A USB charger for iPad2, model A1357
** 5V 1.0A USB Charger for iPod
** 5V 1.0A USB Charger for iPhone 4
* '''Amazon'''
** 5V 0.85A USB charger for Kindle
** 5V 2A Mains to USB A adaptor, Branded "CostMad"
* '''Asus'''
** 5V 2.0A USB charger for Google Nexus 7
* '''Belkin'''
** 5V 2.6A 4 port Ultra-Slim Desktop hub (Model F4U040) (RPi running from USB Hub port)
** 5V 2.5A 4 port USB Hub (Model F5U404) (RPi running from USB Hub port)
** 5V 3.5A 7 port USB 2.0 Mobile Powered Hub (Model F4U018) (RPi running from USB Hub port)
** 5V 3.5A 7 port USB Hub (Model F5U706) (RPi running from USB Hub port)
** Mini Surge Protector Dual USB Charger (Model BZ103050-TVL)
** Universal USB Wall Charger (5V 1A) (Model F8Z222uk)
* '''Blackberry'''
** Charger for Pearl Flip 8220, Bold 9600 (B)
** Charger for Tour 9630
** 5V 0.7A Model PSM04R-0500CHW1(M), RIM Part Number HDW-17957-003 (B)
** 5v 750mA Model RIM-C-0004aDUUUC-001, RIM Part Number HWD-24481-001 (comes with Blackberry 9300)
** 5v 750mA Model RIM-C-0004ADUUS-001 035D, Single port plug. (Tested with USB B to Micro USB cable from Logitech H760 Headset)
** 5V 2A Model PSAC10R-050QT, RIM Part Number HDW-34725-001
* '''Dell'''
** USB Hub integrated in Dell monitors (B)
* '''The FX Factory'''
** 5V 1A (1.2A max) AC Travel Charger Model KJ-USB Mains
* '''Garmin'''
** 5V 1A charger (Model: PSA105R-050Q) supplied with Garmin Edge 800 GPS. Requires a USB-A to MicroUSB-B cable. Belkin 6ft cable (F3U151B06) works.
* '''Griffin'''
** Power Block Model P2417. 5V 2.1A
** Power Block Model P1190R2 Two USB 5V Outputs, 1Amp each
* '''Hama'''
** 1000mA Travel Charger for Micro USB universal (barcode nr: 4 007249 935854)
* '''HP'''
** 5.3V 2A Charger for HP Touchpad (B)
* '''HTC'''
** 5V 1A TCP-300 USB phone charger (B)
** 5V 1A TC B250 USB charger (HTC R/N: 79H00096-00M)
** 5V 1A TC E250 USB charger (HTC R/N: 79H00098-02M)
* '''i-box (Philex Electronic Ltd)'''
** 5V 1A USB charger, 1 USB socket, no USB lead supplied, Model: 76971HS/02 (available from ASDA and others in the UK) (B).
* '''IDAPT'''
** [http://www.idaptweb.com/universal_chargers/i4/ i4 multi device charger] - 3 interchangeable device tips + USB A socket ([https://twitter.com/andrewmk/status/226057302879375361 see it in use])
* '''Innergie'''
**15W Dual USB Adapter. Model: mMini AC15. Output: 5V, 3A (max per port), 15W max. [http://www.myinnergie.com/DuoPowerKit/specification.aspx Spec Sheet]
* '''Kodak'''
** 5V 1A TESA5G1-0501200
** 5V 1.0A K20-AM
* '''LG'''
** 4.8V 1A Travel Adapter
**5.1V 0.7A Travel Adapter (Model: STA-U34WVI)
**5.1V 0.7A Travel Adapter (Model: STA-U12ER)
* '''Logic'''
** 4 port USB Hub (Model LP4HUB10). (RPi running from USB Hub port, red power line (+5v) inside hub cut) (B)
*'''LogiLink'''
**5V 2.1A Switching power supply, model PA0040 (B)
* '''Logitech'''
** 5V 1A SDC115-USB Remote Control Charger and cable
* '''Maplin Electronics'''
** 5V 1A dual USB power supply, model number H25B-MT-K2
** Micro USB Power Supply N19HX
* '''Medion'''
** 5V 1A USB power supply for OYO ebook reader
* '''Microsoft'''
*** Zune Zune AC Adapter v2
* '''Motorola'''
** [http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Micro-USB-Home-Travel-Charger/dp/B004EYSKM8/ 5V 0.85A SPN5504 Charger with Cable]
* '''Nokia'''
** 5V 1.2A AC-10E Charger
** [http://accessories.nokia.com/products/nokia-fast-usb-charger-ac-16/ 5V 1A AC-16E Charger]
* '''Noname'''
** 5V 2.1A KMS-AC09 4 port USB charger (B) [http://www.miniinthebox.com/kms-ac09-universal-ac-adapter-for-ipad-ipad-2-iphone-white_p208568.html]
** 5.2V 1A MW-3NU10GT - no cable, but this one works well (1m): [http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B005L8VELA]
** 5V 1A Model H-IP008 Serial No. H10T80L068
* '''Novatel Wireless'''
** 5V 1.05A Charger, model number SSW-1811, packaged with Verizon Wireless MiFi device
* '''Orange'''
** 5V 0.7A Charger for Orange San Francisco
* '''Palm'''
** 5V 1A Charger for Palm Pixi+ (B)
* '''Pantech'''
** 5.0V 1A CNR USB with LG DLC100 micro usb cable
* '''Petzl'''
** 5.0V 1A Charger that came with the Tikka core2 XP
* '''Phihong'''
** Switching Power Supply. Model: PSAC09R-050. Output: 5V, 1.8A, microUSB. [http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/PSAC09R-050/993-1109-ND/2635771 Digi-key Link]
* '''PortaPow'''
** PortaPow UK Mains Wall Power Supply
* '''RS Components'
** HNP06UK (RS 7263069) Switching Adapter 5.0V 1200mA
* '''Samsung'''
** 5V 0.7A Charger for Galaxy S model ETA0U10EBE
** 5V 0.7A Charger for Galaxy SII
** 5V 1A Charger for Galaxy Nexus
** 5V 0.7A Charger for Galaxy S Vibrant (SGH-T959)
** 5V 0.7A Travel Adapter model ATADU10EBE
** 5V 1A? Samsung C Series TV USB-port for external HDDs. Running stable with openelec
** 5v ?A(Unknown) Samsung Service Port (USB) on LN32A330J1DXZA 720p 32 inch HDTV
** 5V Unknown Ampere Samsung UA22D5000 & UA32D5000 TV USB Port. Test with Raspbian Wheezy, Raspbmc, and RPITC
* '''Shun Shing'''
** 100-240VAC to 5VDC 1A USB power supply, model SP5Q-AU [http://jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=MP3455 Jaycar]
* '''Sony Ericsson'''
** 5V 0.7A Charger CST-80
** 5V 0.85A Greenheart Charger EP800
* '''StarTech'''
** 4 Port USB 2.0 Hub Raspberry Pi can be powered just by plugging USB input into the Pi, don't need power in micro USB port.
* '''Travel Charger'''
** 5V 2.0A USB Power Adapter, [http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0065JCIPU/ Amazon Link]
* '''Technika'''
** 5V 1A USB Power Adapter, model MPASS01 (B)
* '''The Pi Hut'''
** Micro USB Power Supply for the Raspberry Pi. 5V 1000mA (from [http://thepihut.com/products/micro-usb-power-supply-for-the-raspberry-pi The Pi Hut's Raspberry Pi Store]) (also from [http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330757401271 eBay ])
* '''Trisonic'''
** TS-CP600T - MICRO USB HOME & TRAVEL CHARGER (5V, 800mA) $3 at Daiso U.S. stores.
* '''TruePower'''
** [http://u-socket.com/ U-Socket] 5V 2.1A AC Receptacle with Built-in USB ports (2.1A per USB port) model ACE-7169
* '''Voltcraft'''
** SPS5-12W, 2500 mA, requires additional USB <-> miniUSB adapter/cable, works perfectly (bought from [http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/512660/VOLTCRAFT-SPS5-12W-Steckernetzteil-Steckernetzgeraet-5-VDC-2500-mA-12-Watt Conrad Shop])

===Problem power Adapters===
* '''Masterplug'''
** Masterplug Surge Protected USB Adaptor 2 x 1A USB Polished Black - USB ports and ethernet don't work with this adapter and some screen artefacts using HDMI.
* '''Monoprice'''
** 5v, 2A 3 Outlet Power Surge Protector Wall Tap w/ 2 Built-In USB Charger - some display artifacts, sometimes unable to find mouse, some failures to boot. Measured less than 4.75v between TP1 and TP2 when used with a Monoprice cable.
* '''Sony Ericsson'''
** 5v, 850mA EP800. Some failures to boot , ethernet loops at boot.

===External Battery packs (with 5V regulated output)===
* '''Anker Astro3'''
** Anker Astro3 10000mAh with Dual 2A USB Output
* '''Duracell'''
** PPS2 Instant USB Charger
* '''Energizer/XPAL'''
** XP18000 18000mAh Power Pack
* '''Generic - eBay no brand'''
** 6000T Pocket Power 5000mAh - eBay item 271009959140
** Power Bank for iPad/iPhone 5000mAh (looks the same as a New Trent IMP50D or TeckNet iEP380) - eBay item 280914455938
* '''New Trent'''
** iCurve IMP70D 7000mAh (Approx 12hrs from full charge)
** IMP120D 12000mAh
* '''Sinoele'''
** Movpower - Power Bank 5200mAh (8hrs with Wifi active)
* '''TeckNet'''
** iEP387 Dual-Port 7000mAh External Power Bank (The charging lead can be used to connect the Tecknet to the RPi. Ran the RPi with wifi dongle and wireless keyboard receiver for over 9 hours of light use.)
** iEP392 Dual-Port 12000mAh External Power Bank (1A port, ~16.5 hours)
** Rayovac PS60 5v 800mAh
* '''VINZO'''
** Power Bank 5000mAh Grey Output 5V 1000mA
* '''Kodak Power Pack KP1000'''
** 1A USB rechargeable battery pack - see [http://blog.sheasilverman.com/2012/09/its-alive/ Shea Silverman's blog]

== Display adapters ==
Note that active converter boxes may draw power through the HDMI port, and thus will put an extra load on your PSU, and also increase the current running through the PI's primary input fuse. HDMI ports (and the raspberry PI) are designed so that they deliver a very limited amount of power (50mA) to the TV/Monitor/display-adapter and much more isn't in theory allowed. In fact there is a diode (D1) in series with the power line which can only handle 200mA, if the adapter tries to draw much more than that the diode might fail. Therefore only externally powered adapters are to be recommended. Despite this, many people report success with these high powered devices.

===HDMI->DVI-D===
There are three kinds of DVI. There is DVI-D, a digital signal fully compatible with HDMI, so a passive cable can be used. There is DVI-I, which is a connector with both analog pins and digital pins. An HDMI to DVI-D adapter fits in a DVI-I female connector. Finally, there is DVI-A. This a fairly rare connection, but occasionally it will be found on some monitors and is an analog interface, in fact the same as VGA!

Some adapters like Farnell part AK-CBHD03-BK are HDMI to DVI-I, which, while not fitting in a DVI-D monitor, are still compatible. The analog pins simply must be bent.

The HDMI to DVI-D cable provided by Apple with the 2010 Mac Mini worked. It does not appear this adapter can be purchased separately.

* AmazonBasics HDMI to DVI Adapter Cable (model SK231) works and is inexpensive.
* [http://www.ebay.com/itm/DVI-Female-to-HDMI-Male-Adapter-Converter-Adaptor-Gold-for-HDTV-Full-HD-/320946033059?pt=US_Video_Cables_Adapters&hash=item4ab9dfd1a3 A generic HDMI-to-DVI converter from eBay]. Works well, but it's probably the cause of some power loss between the RPi and the monitor, causing [http://elinux.org/R-Pi_Troubleshooting#Interference_visible_on_a_HDMI_or_DVI_monitor this] problem. A setting of config_hdmi_boost='''5''' in /etc/boot solved this. Note that config_hdmi_boost='''4''', as suggested in the troubleshooting guide, helped but did not solve the problem completely.

===HDMI->VGA converter boxes===
Most will require use [[RPi_config.txt]]. Start off with hdmi_safe=1.

[http://www.element14.com/community/groups/raspberry-pi/blog/2012/08/16/raspberry-pi-hdmi-to-vga-converter Sanoxy HDMI to VGA converter], $27 from Amazon, no changes required with official Raspbian Wheezy image (2012-Jul-15), note: had already disabled overscan previously

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B007KEIRNG -- "Neewer" HDMI to VGA -- some issues discussed below:
However, according to user "Tom1989" the same Neewer HDMI to VGA adapter burned out BAT54 Schottky diode D1 on the RasPi and broke its HDMI output: [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=9819 Serious HDMI Problems. What's that smell? Burning Raspberry!]. On that thread, "mahjongg" suggested the NXP (or equivalent) PMEG2010AET as a high-current replacement for D1. The PMEG2010AET has 1A max forward current, much greater than the BAT54's 200 mA limit which may be exceeded by your HDMI -> VGA converter. Remember that the converter's current must come from your RasPi power supply and go through the Micro USB cable and polyfuse F3, so you may get extra voltage drops and/or cause F3 to trip depending on how much current the converter uses. As always with board modifications, YMMV. Also on the "Burning Raspberry!" thread, user "pwinwood" reported the Neewer's current to be 400 mA, which is twice the limit of BAT54 diode D1. "pwinwood" also took the Neewer apart and added its own +5V connection adapted from a USB cable, which bypasses RasPi's Micro USB cable and polyfuse F3.

* Link to a gallery with detailed images & steps of the same adapter modification: [http://imgur.com/a/sLogs/all HERE] --''by [[User:Pinoccio|Pinoccio]]''

http://www.amazon.co.uk/KanaaN-Adapter-Converter-Cable-Resolutions/dp/B007QT0NNW -- "Kanaan" HDMI-VGA

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130699741793 -- eBay is swarming with $16 converters all like this one.

This adapter -- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300692770623 -- works from 640x480 up to 1920x1080, audio over HDMI works too.
Sadly the IC's on the PCB have all been scrubbed.
Requires HDMI boost and overscan, [[RPi_config.txt|config.txt]] settings for 640x480@60Hz:
 hdmi_drive=2
 hdmi_group=2
 hdmi_mode=4
 config_hdmi_boost=4
 overscan_top=-30
 overscan_bottom=-30
 overscan_left=-30
 overscan_right=-30

According to user "Mortimer" -- HDFuryPro HDMI to YPbBr/VGA Converter found on Amazon -- http://www.amazon.co.uk/Inputs-Component-Video-YPbPr-Converter/dp/B00797ZZ4S/ -- Works with Raspberry Pi. Tested against a Philips 170B 1280x1024 LCD monitor, producing a full native resolution image. Not tested against a Component Video TV yet, and audio has yet to be got working.
The [[RPi_config.txt|config.txt]] settings used are:
 hdmi_drive=2
 hdmi_group=2
 hdmi_mode=36
 disable_overscan=1

According to user "Mortimer" -- HDFury1 1080p HDMI to VGA Converter from HDFury.com. I'm not sure the HDFury1 can be got a hold of easily nowadays, I happened to have access to one to try out. HDFury2, 3 and 4 are available as far as I can tell, but are very pricey compared to alternatives. HDFury1 was around £80 when we bought one for a project at work. HDFury2 seems to be around £130, 3 and 4 are getting on towards £200 or more. So not to be recommended as a solution unless you happen to have one lying around. I don't believe there is any relationship between the company that produces these and the HDFuryPro I bought for myself (See above). I didn't alter any config settings, just plugged it in. It doesn't work without having its external power supply connected, as it requires 0.4A, which is too much draw for the 5V supply available from the HDMI socket on the Raspberry Pi. Its power LED lights, but no picture is produced. In comparison to the HDFuryPro this picture from this device is sharper, but not enough to justify the extra cost.
The [[RPi_config.txt|config.txt]] settings used are:
 hdmi_drive=2
 hdmi_group=2
 hdmi_mode=36
 disable_overscan=1

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B007SM7O2U/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00 - "Cable Matters"

Here It is another option: http://www.dealextreme.com/p/hdmi-v1-4-male-to-vga-female-converter-adapter-cable-white-15cm-130458, is cheap (it's free shipping from china) and works perfectly, I tested it with an Acer VGA monitor (AL1511), without no change in my XBMC distribution.
The config.txt for Raspbian (Flatron VGA monitor 1024 * 768):
 hdmi_drive=2
 hdmi_group=2
 hdmi_mode=16
 hdmi_force_hotplug=1
 disable_overscan=0

And another one: http://cgi.ebay.pl/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=251086464644. Very cheap but works perfectly. No config.txt changes was needed at all. I've booted Raspbian and OpenELEC. Monitor is detected correctly and the optimal resolution is set (Raspbian) or you can change the res in the menu (OpenELEC).
The /opt/vc/bin/tvservice is able to read monitor edid data. I tested the adapter using NEC 72VM 15" LCD. (1280x1024 60Hz, 1024x768 60Hz, 640x480 works) The adapter is based on Lontium LT8511A chip, but I was unable to get the spec for it.
The D1 diode is getting very hot though. Most likely the adapter drives more than 200mA. The standard RS Components 1,2A usb power supply is able to provide enough power for the RPi and the adapter. I'll try to modify the adapter to connect external power to bypass D1.
Marcin.

===DVI-D -> VGA active adapters===
None are currently listed

===Composite->SCART===
SCART adapters (SCART plugs with three RCA connectors in the back), will probably work when used with the yellow RCA plug connected to the R-PI's RCA video output. Additionally using a splitter cable (3.5mm jack plug on one end, and red-white RCA plugs on the other end) will probably work when plugged into the red and white (left and right audio channels) of the SCART adapter.

* Generic - works

===Composite->VGA converter boxes===
* [http://www.extron.com/product/product.aspx?id=dvs204| Extron DVS-204] - works no problem!

== SD cards ==

Note that manufacturers change their designs over time, even as the specs stay the same. (E.g. an ACME 8 GB class 4 card manufactured in 2011 might work, while one manufactured in 2012 might not.)
For this reason, please specify product numbers in the lists below, when possible.

You can also attach the following fields from your card's CID :
<pre>
cd /sys/class/mmc_host/mmc?/mmc?:*
echo "man:$(cat manfid) oem:$(cat oemid) name:$(cat name) hwrev:$(cat hwrev) fwrev:$(cat fwrev)"
</pre>

please merge with http://elinux.org/RPi_Performance#SD_card

===Preinstalled SD Cards===
Sandisk SD Cards Preinstalled with the latest Raspbian operating system are available from [http://thepihut.com The Pi Hut's Raspberry Pi Store].
* '''SanDisk'''
** [http://thepihut.com/products/4gb-sandisk-sd-sdhc-card-with-raspbian-wheezy-linux-preinstalled 4GB SDHC Class 4 - Preinstalled with Raspbian Wheezy Linux.]
** [http://thepihut.com/products/8gb-sandisk-sd-sdhc-card-with-raspbian-wheezy-linux-preinstalled 8GB SDHC Class 4 - Preinstalled with Raspbian Wheezy Linux.]
** [http://thepihut.com/products/16gb-sandisk-sd-sdhc-card-with-raspbian-wheezy-linux-preinstalled 16GB SDHC Class 4 - Preinstalled with Raspbian Wheezy Linux.]
** [http://thepihut.com/products/32gb-sandisk-sd-sdhc-card-with-raspbian-wheezy-linux-preinstalled 32GB SDHC Class 4 - Preinstalled with Raspbian Wheezy Linux.]

Kingston and other verified SD Cards Preinstalled with the latest Raspbian operating system are available from many other websites [http://www.amazon.co.uk Amazon UK] and [http://www.ebay.co.uk/ eBay UK].

===Working SD Cards===

* '''7DAYSHOP.COM'''
** 8GB Professional SDHC Class 10 (man:0x000027 oem:0x5048 name:SD08G hwrev:0x3 fwrev:0x0)

* '''Adata'''
** 2GB SD Class 2 Speedy (8B0947 printed on back) This card works with every distro I tried. May be old, may not be the fastest, but is very stable.
** 4GB SDHC Class 4 (BH1109416141G)
** 8GB SDHC Class 2 (MMB3F08GWMCA-GE)
** 8GB SDHC Class 4 (MicroSD w/ adapter)
** 8GB SDHC Class 6 (MMAGR08GUDCA-DB)
** 8GB SDHC Class 10 (AUSDH8GCL10-R)
** 8GB SDHC Class 10 (ASDH8GCL10-R) Tested on 2012-06-18-wheezy-beta.zip
** 8GB SDHC Class 10 (P-SDH8G10-EC from BJ's USA tested on Raspbian)
** 16GB SDHC Class 6
** 16GB SDHC Class 10 (16GSDHC10)
** 16GB SDHC Class 10 (microSD w/ adapter AUSDH16GCL10-RA1)
** 32GB SDHC Class 10 (ASDH32GCL10-R) Tested on wheezy-beta with latest kernel and firmware and raspbian wheezy

* '''AmazonBasics'''
** [http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-SDHC-Class-Secure-Digital/dp/B0058GH0LS 8GB SDHC Class 10 B0058GH0LS]
** [http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-SDHC-Class-Secure-Digital/dp/B0058GH1IK 16GB SDHC Class 10 B0058GH1IK]
** 32GB SDHC Class 10

* '''Apacer'''
** 8GB microSDHC Class 10 (with adapter)
** 8GB SDHC Class 6

* '''Centon'''
** 16GB SDHC Class 4 (1447 printed on back)

* '''CnMemory'''
** 8GB SDHC Class 4 (Silver/Black label says 'High Capacity Card') 84209_8GB_SDHC, bought from Maplins. No error messages seen, but operation is much slower than with a SanDisk 4GB Class 4 card.

* '''Dane-Elec'''
** 16GB SDHC Class 4
** 16GB Pro 200X Class 10 DEMS16GB2683ENBA

* '''Dikom'''
** 16GB SDHC Class 10 (serial 207H3MD016IBSD)

* '''Duracell'''
** 4GB SDHC Class 4
** 16GB SDHC Class 10 (labelled Pro Photo 200x)
** 32GB SDHC Class 10 (man:0x00001d oem:0x4144 name:SD hwrev:0x1 fwrev:0x0) (~4.6MB/s read, ~4.4MB/s write on debian6-19-04-2012, following [[RPi_Performance#SD_card]])

* '''Emtec'''
** 2GB SD man:0x000027 oem:0x5048 name:SD02G hwrev:0x2 fwrev:0x0
** 4GB SDHC Class 4 (EKMSD4G60XHCN)
** 16GB SDHC Class 10 (EKMSD16G150XHC) (less than half as fast as Sandisk 16gb Class 10)

* '''Extrememory'''
** 16GB SDHC Class 10 (man:0x000012 oem:0x3456 name:F0F0F hwrev:0x1 fwrev:0x0)
** 32GB SDHC Class 10 (man:0x000003 oem:0x5344 name:SMI hwrev:0x1 fwrev:0x0)

* '''Eye-Fi'''
** 4GB WiFi SDHC (Wi-Fi doesn't work)

* '''Fugi'''
** 32GB SDHC Class 10 (P10NM00580A) (man:0x000073 oem:0x4247 name:NCard hwrev:0x1 fwrev:0x0)

* '''Hama'''
** 2GB SD Class 2
** 8GB SDHC High Speed Pro Class 6

* '''Hema (Dutch dept. store)'''
** 4GB
** 8GB SDHC Class 4

* '''Goodram'''
** 8GB microSDHC Class 4
** 16GB microSDHC Class 4 (SDU16GHCAGRR10)
** 16GB SDHC Class 10

* '''HP'''
** 8GB SDHC Class 4 (doesn't reboot during first time startup process, but restart again and fine after that).
** [http://www.amazon.com/HP-CG790A-AZ-Flash-Memory-Class/dp/B007X7U224 32GB SDHC Class 10]

* '''ICIDU'''
** 4GB SDHC Class 10 (also had no issues)
** 16GB SDHC Class 10 (image write had issues, might be my inexperience. It boots & shows Xserver)
** 32GB SDHC Class 10 (had no issues whatsoever, the comment above might be a dud.)
** 8GB microSDHC Class 10
** 16GB microSDHC Class 10 (20MB/sec)
** 32GB microSDHC Class 10 (20MB/sec)

* '''Integral'''
** 4GB SDHC Ultima Pro Class 10
** 4GB SDHC Class 4 SD-K04G (Purple label)
** 8GB SDHC Ultima Pro Class 6 (Works - initial error -110 but boots within 5 seconds with no further errors or issues)
** 8GB SDHC Ultima Pro Class 10 (20MB/s) (Works - initial error -110 but boots within 5 seconds with no further errors or issues)
** 16GB SDHC Ultima Pro Class 6
** [http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0047T6XME 16GB SDHC Class 10 Ultima Pro (20MB/s)]
** 32GB SDHC Ultima Pro Class 10 (20MB/s) - Slow to initially boot past the Rainbow Screen.

* '''Joyflash'''
** 16GB SDHC Class 10 (LTSD1112016GB)

* '''Kingmax'''
** 4GB SDHC Class 2
** 4GB microSDHC Class 4 (KM04GMCSDHC4) won`t reboot when it`s hot
** 8GB microSDHC Class 4 (KM08GMCSDHC41A) won`t reboot when it`s hot

* '''Kingston'''
** 2GB SD
** 2GB microSD (N0185-002.A00LF) + Adapter (File system .img written via Transcend microSDHC "USB stick-like" adapter - P3-102510)
** 4GB microSD Class 4
** 4GB SDHC Class 4 (SD4/4GB) (Writes at 4.8MB/s, Reads at 9MB/s)
** 4GB SDHC Class 10 (SD10V/4GB)
** [http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/1619/dsc0253y.jpg 8GB SDHC Class 4] ([http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/2028/dsc0254br.jpg SD4/8GB]) (Works reliably with Raspbian 18-9-2012 and previous Debian releases) (Writes at 4.8MB/s, Reads at 9MB/s)
** [http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/3849/dsc0251et.jpg 8GB microSDHC Class 4] ([http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/363/dsc0252ld.jpg SDC4/8GB])
** 8GB SDHC Class 6 (SD6/8GB) (errors on boot, boots Debian ok)
** 8GB SDHC Class 10 (SD10G2/8GB, SD10V/8GB, ultimateX 100X, ultimateX 120X)
** 16GB SDHC Class 4 (SD4/16GB)
** 16GB microSDHC Class 10 (SDC10/16GB)
** 16GB SDHC Class 10 (SD10G2/16GB, ultimateX 100X)
** 16GB SDHC Class 10 (SD4/16GBET)
** 32GB SDHC Class 10 (SD10V)
** 32GB SDHC Class 10 (SD10G2/32GB, ultimateX 100X)

* '''Kodak'''
** 4GB SDHC Class 2
** 8GB SDHC Class 4

* '''Kruidvat'''
** 8GB SDHC Class 4
** 8GB SDHC Class 10 (actually cheaper then the class 4 in my store)

* '''Lexar'''
** 4GB SDHC Class 4 (Boots consistently and no error messages in log after 1/2 hour use ) (works with Raspbmc)
** 4GB SDHC Class 6 Platinum II (from [http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0350735 Microcenter])
** 8GB SDHC Class 4
** 8GB SDHC Class 6 Premium Series
** 8GB SDHC Class 6 Platinum II
** 16GB SDHC Class 6 Platinum II
** 32GB microSDHC HIGH-SPEED Class 10 (from [http://www.amazon.co.uk/Lexar-32GB-Micro-Speed-Reader/dp/B004BR2ZTM Amazon])
** 128GB SDXC UHS-I Card LSD128CTBNA400 (from [http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007BZRXK2 Amazon])

* '''Master'''
** 16GB SDHC Class 10 [man:0x000003 oem:0x5344 name:SMI hwrev:0x1 fwrev:0x0]

* '''Medion'''
** 8GB Class 4 SDHC UK sourced (Aldi)
* '''Microcenter Brand (sold in bins at checkout)'''
** [http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0289508 8GB SDHC Class 4]
** [http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0349728 8GB SDHC Class 10]
** [http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0349729 16GB SDHC Class 10]

* '''Mushkin'''
** 16GB SDHC Class 10 (MKNSDHCU1-16GB) [http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226324]
** 32GB SDHC Class 10 (MKNSDHCC10-32GB) [http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226235]

* '''Mustang'''
** [http://www.mustang-flash.de/Products/Flash%20Products/Secure%20Digital/SD-Card/8GB%20Mustang%20SDHC%20Card%20LeMans%2C%20Class%2010%2C%20Retail|SD8GHCCL10MU-R.html 8GB SDHC Class 10]

* '''MyMemory'''
** 8GB SDHC Class 10 (MYMESDH8G10) [http://www.mymemory.co.uk/SDHC/MyMemory/MyMemory-8GB-SD-Card-%28SDHC%29---Class-10 MyMemory 8GB class 10] (Latest batch not working)
** 16GB SDHC Class 10 (MYMESDH16G10) [http://www.mymemory.co.uk/SDHC/MyMemory/MyMemory-16GB-SD-Card-(SDHC)---Class-10]

* '''NovaTech'''
** 8GB SDHC Class 10 (Integral Branded)

* '''OCZ'''
** 8GB SDHC Class 6 Gold Series (08110596-8GB-6) tested with Debian Squeeze (official Raspberry Pi distribution debian6-19-04-2012.zip)

* '''Optima'''
** 8GB SDHC Class 10 (Pro-Speed)
** 8GB SDHC Class 4 - working from 2012-09-18

* '''Panasonic'''
** 4GB SDHC Class 4
** 4GB SDHC Class 10 UHS-I (~11.2MB/s read, ~6.2MB/s write, following [[RPi_Performance#SD_card]])
** 8GB SDHC Class 2 (~11.1MB/s read, ~9.7MB/s write, following [[RPi_Performance#SD_card]])
** 8GB SDHC Class 6 (~4.8MB/s read, ~4.4MB/s write, following [[RPi_Performance#SD_card]])

* '''Patriot'''
** 8GB SDHC Class 6 (PSF8GSDHC10-PC)
** 8GB SDHC Class 10 LX Series (PSF8GSDHC10-PC1)
** 16GB SDHC Class 10 (PSF16GMCSDHC10)
** 16GB SDHC Class 10 LX Series (PSF16GSDHC10) (19.3MB/s read, 9.3MB/s write)
** 16GB microSDHC Class 10 (PSF16GMSHC10) (requires recent kernel update for boot)
** 32GB SDHC Class 10 (PSF32GSDHC10)
** 32GB SDHC Class 10 UHS-1 (PEF32GSDHC10U1) (20.4MB/s read, 12.1MB/s write)

* '''Peak'''
** 4GB microSDHC Class 4 (MMBTR04GUBCA-ME) tested with Arch

* '''Philips'''
** 8GB SDHC Class 4 (FM08SD35B)

* '''Platinum'''
** 4GB SDHC Class 6
** 8GB SDHC Class 6 (man:0x00006f oem:0x0000 name:SMI hwrev:0x1 fwrev:0x0)
** 64GB SDCX Class 10

* '''Play.com'''
** 4GB SDHC Class 6 (S4E3CD04GEFAA 0907090121106)

* '''PNY'''
** 4GB SDHC Class 4
** 4GB SDHC Class 4 Optima (SD-K04G 0834TT1297Y)
** 4GB SDHC Class 4. Micro SD Card with adapter.
** 8GB SDHC Class 6
** 8GB SDHC Class 10. Micro SD card with adapter.
** 16GB SDHC Class 4
** 16GB SDHC Class 10 (P-SDHC16G10-GE)
*** See the note for P-SDHC16G10-EF. Works with Wheezy, does not work with Squeeze, Arch, or Fedora Remix.
** 16GB SDHC Class 10 (P-SDHC16G10-EF)
*** Works with [http://www.raspberrypi.org/archives/1435 Debian Wheezy]
*** Does not work with Debian Squeeze (debian6-19-04-2012: mmc0: timeout waiting for hardware interrupt).
*** Does not work with Arch Linux Arm (archlinuxarm-29-04-2012: no video is displayed, solid red power light, tiny green light)
** 16GB SDHC Class 10 Pro-Elite (P-SDH16U1-30-GE). Works with raspbmc, haven't tested others.

* '''pqi'''
** 8GB SDHC Class 6
*** Works with official debian6-19-04-2012

* '''PRETEC'''
** 8GB SDHC Class 10 (8DK52-122ME)

* '''Samsung'''
** 4GB SDHC
** 8GB SDHC Class 6 (MB-SS8GAEU)
** 8GB SDHC Class 10 (MB-MP8GA, MB-SP8GA/EU, MB-SP8GA/AM)
** 16GB SDHC Class 6 (MB-SSAGAEU)
** 16GB SDHC Class 10 (MB-SPAGA aka MB-SPAGAEU)
** 32GB SDHC Class 10 (MB-SSBGA, MBSSBGVEOBGA-SH) fine with [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=8071 Debian Wheezy], but does not work with Debian Squeeze (debian6-19-04-2012: mmc0: timeout waiting for hardware interrupt).

* '''SanDisk'''
** 2GB SD, white "SanDisk for Wii" branded, no class mentioned
** 2GB SD (with a circle 2 --probably class 2), writes at 3.5 Mb/s
** 2GB SD Class 2 (BE0816113150D)
** 2GB SD Class 4 Ultra (15MB/s)
** 2GB SD Class 4 Ultra II
** 2GB SD Ultra II (BE0719111366D)
** 2GB SD Extreme III (BE0715105083B)
** 2GB SD Extreme III (BE0804212046D) - 20MB/s - Class 6
** 4GB SDHC Class 2 (BH0820113475D) - Tested with RPITC (Based on Raspbian Wheezy)
** 4GB SDHC Class 4 (SDSDB-004G-B35)
** 4GB SDHC Class 4 (SDSDB-004G-BT35). Confirmed working with stock debian6-19-04-2012.img
** 4GB SDHC Class 4 (BH1210821913G)
** 4GB SDHC Class 4 (SDSDH2-004G-AC11, BH1127216239D) Costco 2-pack, booting Wheezy 2012-07-15
** 4GB SDHC Class 4 Ultra (SDSDH-004G-U46) won`t reboot when it`s hot
** 4GB SDHC Class 4 Ultra II
** 4GB SDHC Class 6 Ultra (30MB/s BH1200421822D)
** 4GB SDHC Class 6 Ultra (SDSDH-004G-U46 - BH1136121837G, BH1130521822D)
** 4GB SDHC Class 10 Extreme (BH10297143382G)
** 8GB SDHC Class 4 (writes at ~1.5MB/s)
** 8GB SDHC Class 4 Ultra labelled as 15MB/s (BI1024716014G)
** 8GB SDHC Class 6 Ultra
** 8GB SDHC Class 6 micro - MMAGR08GUDCA-DB
*** also SDSDH-008G-U46 - BI1131222083D see [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=88625#p88625 update from andrew.blake]
*** except SDSRH-008G-A11 could be problematic, see below
** 8GB SDHC Class 6 Ultra labelled as 20MB/s (BI11321422083D)
** 8GB SDHC-I Class 6 Ultra labelled as 30MB/s (SDSDH2-008G-AC11)
*** requires updated Squeeze or Wheezy beta
** 8GB SDHC Class 10 Extreme (BI11017514367G)
** 8GB SDHC Class 10 Extreme (B11209116254G) - Managed to get it working with raspbian R3 [http://archive.raspbian.org/images/rpi_pisces_r3.zip rpi_pisces_r3.zip] however does not work with official squeeze nor Arch linux.
** 8GB SDHC Class 10 Extreme (30MB/s HD Video) - working with new [https://github.com/raspberrypi/firmware/blob/9308c7ed387e5422883753f7fb71a75506abd1f8/boot/bootcode.bin bootcode.bin]. Confirmed on 2012-07-10 for Debian Squeeze 2012-04-19 and Arch Linux 2012-06-13 images (BI1130916254G).
** 8GB SDHC Class 10 Ultra(30MB/s) (SDSDU-008G-U46) - Works with stock debian6-19-04-2012 or raspbian images but not with OpenELEC r11212 (works with OpenELEC r11493)
** 8GB SDHC Class 10 Ultra(30MB/s) (SDSDU-008G-UDQ46) - Works with stock 2012-09-18-wheezy-raspbian
** 8GB SDHC Class 10 Extreme (SDSDX-008G-X46/BI1218822414G) - Works with stock 2012-08-16-wheezy-raspbian
** 8GB SDHC Class 10 Extreme Pro (95MB/s UHS-I) (SDSDXPA-008G-X46) - Works with stock 2012-07-15-wheezy-raspbian
** 16GB SDHC Class 4
** 16GB SDGC Class 4 (SDSDB-016G-B35) - working with [https://github.com/raspberrypi/firmware/blob/234c19de7cbaaf4997671d61df20a05759066295/boot/bootcode.bin bootcode.bin]. Confirmed on 2012-07-15 for Debian Squeeze 2012-04-19
** 16GB SDHC Class 6 Ultra (30MB/s) (BL1133921933G) - Work with OpenELEC r11324
** 16GB SDHC Class 10 Ultra(30MB/s) (SDSDU-016G-U46) - Work with stock debian6-19-04-2012 image. Gave Kernel Panic with stock debian6-19-04-2012 image. Worked fine with Wheezy image.
** 16GB SDHC Class 10 Extreme (30MB/s HD Video) (SDSDX3-016G-X46) - Works with 2012-06-18-wheezy-beta.img and updated firmware (tested 2012-07-02)
** 16GB SDHC Class 10 Extreme (45MB/s U1) (BL1203322025G) - Works with 2012-08-16-wheezy-raspbian.img (tested 2012-09-15). Doesn't work with stock debian6-19-04-2012 image, but does work with freshly compiled kernel
** 16GB SDHC Class 10 Extreme (45MB/s) (SDSDX-016G-X46) (UPC 619659062224) - Works with 2012-09-18-wheezy-raspbian.img (tested 17/10/2012)
** 16GB SDHC Class 10 Extreme (45MB/s) (SDSDXPA-016G-FPP) - Working with latest RaspBMC image (tested 12/09/2012) [http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00422J0CG/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00 Amazon Link]
** 16GB SDHC Class 10 Extreme Pro (95MB/s UHS-I) (SDSDXPA-016G-A75) - Doesn't work with stock debian6-19-04-2012 image, but does work with freshly compiled kernel
** 32GB SDHC Class 4
** 32GB SDHC Class 6
** 32GB SDHC Class 10 Ultra (30MB/s) - Works with stock debian6-19-04-2012 image
** 32GB SDHC Class 10 Extreme (45 MB/s UHS-I) (SDSDX-032G-X46) - works with arch-04-29-image and latest firmware (booting problems without firmware update)
** 64GB SDXC Class 10 Extreme (45 MB/s UHS-I) (SDSDX-064G-X46) - works with 2012-07-15-wheezy-raspbian
** microSDHC / microSDXC
*** 4GB microSDHC Class 2
*** 4GB microSDHC Class 4
*** 8GB microSDHC Class 2
*** 8GB microSDHC Class 4
*** 8GB microSDHC Class 6 Mobile Ultra (SDSDQY-008G-U46A) working with the latest firmware, won`t reboot when it`s hot
*** 8GB microSDHC Class 10 Ultra(30MB/s) (SDSDQU-008G-U46) tested and working on Raspbian wheezy (and RaspBMC)
*** 16GB microSDHC Class 10 Mobile Ultra (SDSDQUA-016G-U46A) working with the latest firmware
*** 32GB microSDHC Class 4 (SDSDQM-032G-B35)
*** [http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/6435/dsc0255uc.jpg 64GB microSDXC Class 6 Mobile Ultra] (SDSDQY-064G-A11A) (boots up much more consistently with latest firmware)

* '''Silicon Power'''
** 4GB microSDHC Class 6 (SP004GBSTH006V10-SP)
** 8GB microSDHC Class 10 (S608G1202)
** 16GB microSDHC Class 10 (SP016GBSDH010V10)

* '''Sony'''
** 4GB SDHC Class 4 (SF-4B4) (Write 6MB/s, Read 20MB/s)
** 4GB SDHC Class 4 (SF-4N4)
** 8GB SDHC Class 4 (Write 11.8MB/s, Read 17.4MB/s)
** [http://store.sony.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10551&storeId=10151&langId=-1&partNumber=SF32NX/TQ#features 32GB SDHC Class 10 (SF-32NX/TQ)] (Max read speed of ~94MB/s, min write speed of ~10MB/s) - Works with archlinuxarm-29-04-2012 dd image with latest firmware update (as of 10-06-2012)

* '''Strontium'''
** 8GB SDHC Class 10 (SD-T08G 1045 US6923 G (White Shell - SKU 8 886450 703492))
* '''Super Talent'''
** 32GB Secure Digital High Capacity SDHC Card (Class 10), Model SDHC32-C10 SKU: 116-557-001 (works with Raspbmc RC4 and 2012-07-15-wheezy-raspbian))

* '''TakeMS'''
** 4GB microSDHC Class 4 (with adapter) [http://www.takems.com/products.php?categ=flash&prod=Micro_SDHC-Card Micro SDHC Class 4 + 1 Adapter(Order No.88662)]

* '''TDK'''
** 4GB SDHC Class 4 (1008WW5261B)
** 4GB SDHC Class 4 (80-56-10275-004G,Debian works '''BUT''' mmc0 errors when booting Fedora)
** 4GB microSDHC Class 4 (80-56-10301-004G)
** 4GB SDHC Class 6 (S404G1113) - Works with Debian Wheezy (2012-06-18 beta), not tried latest OpenELEC yet.
** 8GB SDHC Class 10 - Works with Raspbian 2012-07-15
** Sandisk 64GB Class 10 Ultra SDXC UHS-I FFP (3A114807)

* '''Toshiba'''
** 8GB mircoSDHC SD-C08GJ(BL3A
** 16GB SDHC Class 10 SD-T16G (1046 US7022 C)

* '''Transcend'''
** 4GB SDHC Class 4 - we've found these to work without any errors and offer reasonable performance
** 4GB SDHC Class 4 (TS4GSDHC4 - BH1130821915G)
** 4GB SDHC Class 6 (TS4GSDHC6) - no problems. (does not work with Raspbmc as of 6/1/12)
** 4GB SDHC Class 10 (TS4GSDHC10E)
** [http://www.mymemory.co.uk/SDHC/Transcend/Transcend-8GB-SD-Card-(SDHC)---Class-4 8GB SDHC Class 4] (TS8GSDHC4) (man:0x000003 oem:0x5344 name:SD08G hwrev:0x8 fwrev:0x0) - works with both Debian "squeezy" and Raspbian "wheezy" distributions.
** 8GB SDHC Class 6 (~5.8 MB/s read/write following [[RPi_Performance#SD_card]])
** 8GB SDHC Class 6 (TS8GSDHC6-P2 - MMBFG08GWACA-M6)
** 8GB SDHC Class 10 (TS8GSDHC10) [http://www.mymemory.co.uk/SDHC/Transcend/Transcend-8GB-SD-Card-%28SDHC%29---Class-10- Transcend 8G class 10]
** 16GB SDHC Class 6 (TS16GSDHC6)
** 16GB SDHC Class 10 (TS16GSDHC10)(TS16GSDHC10E)
** [http://www.transcend.com.es/tarjetas-de-memoria/sd-sdhc/32gb-sdhc-class-10 32GB SDHC Class 10] (TS32GSDHC10)(TS32GSDHC10E)
** 64GB SDXC Class 10 (TS64GSDXC10)

* '''Verbatim'''
** 8GB SDHC Class 10 (43961)
** 16GB SDHC Class 10 (43962)
** 32GB SDHC Class 6 (44032)

*'''Traveler'''
**4GB High Speed Memory Card - no class mentioned. No problems. Tested with Raspbian.

* '''The Pi Hut'''
** Sandisk 4GB Class 4 - Preinstalled with Raspbian Wheezy Linux. (from [http://thepihut.com/products/4gb-sandisk-sd-sdhc-card-with-raspbian-wheezy-linux-preinstalled The Pi Hut's Raspberry Pi Store])
** Sandisk 8GB Class 4 - Preinstalled with Raspbian Wheezy Linux. (from [http://thepihut.com/products/8gb-sandisk-sd-sdhc-card-with-raspbian-wheezy-linux-preinstalled The Pi Hut's Raspberry Pi Store])
** Sandisk 16GB Class 4 - Preinstalled with Raspbian Wheezy Linux. (from [http://thepihut.com/products/16gb-sandisk-sd-sdhc-card-with-raspbian-wheezy-linux-preinstalled The Pi Hut's Raspberry Pi Store])
** Sandisk 32GB Class 4 - Preinstalled with Raspbian Wheezy Linux. (from [http://thepihut.com/products/32gb-sandisk-sd-sdhc-card-with-raspbian-wheezy-linux-preinstalled The Pi Hut's Raspberry Pi Store])

* '''V-Gen'''
** 8GB microSDHC - no class mentioned. No problems.(man:0x000073 oem:0x4247 name:NCard hwrev:0x1 fwrev:0x0). Tested with Raspbian Wheezy & Raspbmc.

* '''Veho (http://www.veho-uk.com)'''
** 8Gb "Ultra Fast" Class 6. (man:0x00001b oem:0x534d name:00000 hwrev:0x1 fwrev:0x0) 7.8Mb/s. Slow but tested with Arch Linux.

* '''W Photo (Walgreens photo)'''
** 1GB SD memory card. Works with raspbmc, have not tested others.
** 2GB SD memory card. Works with raspbian, not tested with others.

Known good (and pre-loaded) cards will be available for sale from RS and element14 at a ''later'' date (TBA).

===Problem SD Cards===

Make sure that you buy your card from a reliable source. There are many cheap Chinese copies of (brand name) SD-Cards on the market, [http://www.petapixel.com/2011/05/20/one-third-of-the-sandisk-memory-cards-on-earth-are-counterfeit/] in addition they are often mislabeled as having greater capacity than they really have. For example they might be sold as being 4GB, but are actually 2GB (or even less).

There were initially issues with most Class 10 SDHC cards, apparently due to a bug in the Broadcom bootloader.[http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/general-discussion/class-10-sd-cards-on-the-production-boards/page-3/#p39181]

This seems to have been fixed in sdhci.c: [https://github.com/raspberrypi/linux/commit/7e8ae226fe6e95954df6b0dcdde40a53dbbc1a0b] Further feedback will be useful.

If you add an SD card here, please also mention the kernel date and the date you tried it. This allows people to estimate how likely it is that a driver-fix in the kernel has been fixed. (i.e. I think some/most of the cards here work fine now, because a problem in the kernel driver has been fixed).

* '''Acumem'''
** 8GB SDHC Class 6 (many errors on 6/7/2012)
* '''Adata'''
** 2GB Speedy (MMAGF02GWMCA -NA)
** 8GB SDHC Class 6 - Sometimes boots
** 16GB SDHC Class 6 (Possibly SD5MY168G0, label with gold <> black gradient) - Doesn't boot
* '''Agfa'''
** 16GB MicroSDHC class 6 (as written on SD-Adapter, MicroSD card itself no-name? ENAAJK121960): mixed results, such a card was working on another RPi
* '''Amazon Basics'''
** 16GB SDHC Class 10 (many errors on 6/7/2012)
* '''Delkin Devices'''
** 4GB SDHC Class 6 "Delkin pro" -- Note: works with Fedora Beefy Miracle 17
* '''GSkill'''
** 32GB SDHC Class 10
* '''Integral'''
** 16GB SDHC Class 6 Ultima Pro (SH016GAA2BB)
** 4GB SDHC class 4 (S404G1115)
* '''Kingston'''
** 2GB SD [http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?invtid=KING-SD-M02G-BULK looks like this] - boots the kernel, but damages the filesystem.
** 4GB SDHC Class 6 - Boots kernel but won't run init (times out)
** 8GB/Go SDHC Class 10 - SD10V/8GB Very slow writing images to card and then either won't boot, or boots very slowly
** 16GB SDHC Class 4 (SDC4/16GB17) - Device does not recognize it
* '''Memory2GO'''
** 4GB SDHC Class 6 (S404G1029) - I/O Errors leading to Kernel Panic on startup.
* '''Micro Center'''
**4GB SDHC Class 4 — hasn't worked with any of the images I've tried; appears to be completely unrecognized
* '''MyMemory.com'''
** 8GB SDHC Class 10

* '''Optima'''
** <del>8GB SDHC Class 4 - Does not boot with Raspbian Wheezy 2012-07-15</del> - works with 2012-09-18

* '''Panasonic'''
** 8GB SDHC Class 10 (RP-SDU08GD1K) mmc0: timeout waiting for hardware interrupt [http://www.mymemory.co.uk/SDHC/Panasonic/Panasonic-8GB-UHS-1-London-2012-Collection-SDHC-Card---Class-10 Panasonic 8GB Class 10]
* '''Patriot'''
** 8GB SDHC Class 6 (PS8GSDHC10-BC) - repeatable corruption after 1 or 2 reboots with 2012-07-15-wheezy-raspbian
** 8GB SDHC Class 10 (PSF8GSDHC10)
** 8GB SDHC Class 10 (PSF8GSDHC10-PC) - won't even boot 2012-08-16-wheezy-raspbian (mmc0: timeout waiting for hardware interrupt, followed by continuous I/O errors, timeouts, etc.). Seems functional in Arch, but sometimes freezes at the beginning of boot (blinking underscore).
* '''Platinum'''
** 8GB SDHC Class 8 (O08G840 M3100487 TW)
** 16GB SDHC Class 10 (article code 177117) - Does not boot with Raspbian Wheezy 2012-09-12
* '''PNY'''
** 8GB Optima SDHC 120 HD Class 4 SD-K08G 0928 WF3673 - mmc -110 errors at init time on 6/12/12
** 8GB Premium SDHC Class 4 - mmc - mmc0: timeout waiting for hardware interrupt
** 32GB SDHC Class 10 Professional (P-SDHC32G10-EF) from [http://www.play.com/Electronics/Electronics/4-/18814903/-/Product.html play.com] (mmc0 timeout with Debian, error -84 whilst initialising sd card with Fedora and QtonPi. Arch seems to work, gets to the login prompt)
** 2GB card SD-M02G
* '''Polaroid'''
** 16GB SDHC C10 (P-SDHC16GB10-EFPOL) - mmc0: timeout waiting for hardware interrupt on debian6-19-04-2012
* '''PRETEC'''
** 8GB SDHC Class 10 233x - mmc0: timeout waiting for hardware interrupt, Sometimes does not boot, kernel panic, ...
* '''Reekin'''
** 4Gb HighSpeed SH4GC6M16MIN9C0812TE (old) don't boot ! (11/07/2012)
* '''Samsung'''
** 4GB SDHC Class 4 (MB-SS4G MBSS4GMBDDBA-DD) doesn't boot with [http://downloads.raspberrypi.org/images/raspbian/2012-07-15-wheezy-raspbian/2012-07-15-wheezy-raspbian.zip 2012-07-15-wheezy-raspbian] - OK light partially lit.
** 32GB SDHC Class 10 (MB-SSBGA, MBSSBGVEOBGA-SH) does not work with Debian Squeeze (debian6-19-04-2012: mmc0: timeout waiting for hardware interrupt), but works fine with [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=8071 Debian Wheezy]
* '''SanDisk'''
** 2GB SD Extreme III (BE0722702998D) (man:0x000003 oem:0x5344 name:SD02G hwrev:0x8 fwrev:0x0) - tested with Raspbian (build 2012-07-15) and Raspbmc installer (build 2012-07-13)
** 2GB SD (BE0916214253D)
** 2GB Ultra || 15MB/s (BE0828713280D)
** 4GB SDHC Class 2 - Debian and xbmc boot, but fedora gets a lot of mmc0 note long write sync errors and then hc_xfer_timeout errors at the login prompt.
** 4GB SDHC Class 2 "Limited Edition" (8H825413279G) - Error -110 whilst initialising sd card
** 4GB SDHC Class 4 (BH1030216016G) - Doesn't boot.
** 4GB SDHC Class 4 (BH1031116016G) - Doesn't boot.
** 4GB SDHC Class 6 Extreme (BH0822411730D)
** 4GB SDHC Class 6 Extreme III (30 MB/s) (BH0822712362G)
** 4GB SDHC Class 10 Extreme (SDSDX-004G-X46) (30 MB/s HD Video) doesn't boot (also not with new kernel.img and start.elf 17-06-2012 or "wheezy"-beta)
** 4GB SDHC Class 10 Extreme (30 MB/s HD Video) (Doesn't boot) - Works with new kernel.img and start.elf [https://github.com/raspberrypi/firmware/tree/master/boot]
** 4GB microSDHC Class 6 Mobile Ultra (tried 15-06-2012 with kernel 19-04-2012) error -84 transferring data, kernel panic: no init found
** 8GB SDHC Class 6 Ultra (B11201421964G)
** <del>8GB SDHC Class 6 Ultra (SDSDH-008G-U46 - BI1131222083D) - Boots kernel but won't run init ( mmc timeout waiting for interrupt )</del> see [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=88625#p88625 update from andrew.blake]
** 8GB SDHC Class 6 Ultra labelled as 30MB/s (BI1208721965G)) - Boots kernel but won't run init ( mmc timeout waiting for interrupt )
** 8GB SDHC Class 6 Ultra labelled as 30MB/s SDSRH-008G-A11 - Boots kernel but won't run init ( mmc timeout waiting for interrupt )
** 8GB SDHC Class 6 Ultra labelled as 30MB/s SDSDH-008G-T11 - Boots kernel but won't run init ( debian6-19-04-2012: mmc timeout waiting for interrupt ) , but works fine with [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=8071 Debian Wheezy] on 6/22/12
** 8GB SDHC Class 6 Ultra I (BI1201221964G) - Boots kernel but won't run init ( mmc timeout waiting for interrupt )
** 8GB SDHC Class 6 Extreme (BI1101116253G)
** 8GB SDHC Class 10 Extreme (BI1108716254G)
** 8GB SDHC Class 10 Extreme (BI1201416254G) - Still doesn't work with Debian Wheezy beta (2012-06-18)
** <del>8GB SDHC Class 10 Extreme (BI1201516254G) [[http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00422FBJ2 amazon.co.uk]]+amazon.fr</del> works with wheezy 19/09/2012
** 8GB SDHC Class 10 Extreme (BI1200916252D/SDSDX-008G-X46) - Tried with Debian "Squeeze"(19/04/2012), Debian "Wheezy"(18/06/2012) and Arch Linux(13/06/2012). None works. With Debian "Wheezy" Green LED stays ON continuously, with the other two it turns on very faint.
** 8GB SDHC Class 10 Extreme Pro- Works with updated kernel/firmware, stock debian6-19-04-2012 boots kernel but won't run init ( mmc timeout waiting for interrupt )
** <del>16GB SDHC Class 10 Extreme (30MB/s HD Video) (SDSDX3-016G-X46) - Doesn't boot with debian6-19-04-2012.img, or newer firmware (tested 2012-06-17).</del>
** 16GB SDHC Class 6 Ultra (BL1202021933G)
** 16GB SDHC Class 6 Ultra I (BL1205921933G) - Boots kernel but won't run init ( mmc timeout waiting for interrupt )
* '''Silicon Power'''
** 32GB SDHC Class 6 (LS2N732GQON03ASP) - boots debian6-19-04-2012.img, but frequent slow response / system hangs.

* '''TDK'''
** 4GB SDHC Class 6 (S404G1041) - Tried (end May 2012) with new kernel.img and start.elf [https://github.com/raspberrypi/firmware/tree/master/boot] but still won't run init.
** 4GB SDHC Class 6 (S404G1046) [Barcode: 4 902030 784447] - Tried (4th June 2012) with debian6-19-04-2012.img and with replacement kernel.img and start.elf from github [https://github.com/raspberrypi/firmware/tree/87a04c0be0c05e20f94f223183a0310b37c9bd89/boot] but still got 'Error -84' and 'Kernel panic - not syncing: No init found'

* '''Transcend'''
** 2GB MicroSD (MMAGR02GUECA-MB) - reads fine initially after image was written on a PC, gives mmc0 timeout errors reading back data after writing a large amount (in this case with 'pacman -Syu'). Still seems to work, but is *very* slow after this happens, even across reboots.
** 32GB MicroSD (TS32GUSDHC4) - Doesn't boot.
** 2GB SD (6451AG 2G O2DS1)
** 16GB SD Class10 (TS16GSDHC10U1) - Doesn't Boot, show that "kernel panic - not syncing attempted to kill init"
* '''Veho'''
** 4GB SDHC Class 6
* '''Verbatim'''
** 16GB SDHC Class 6 (47178) - Raspbian Pisces RC3 - boots, but after login: mmc timeout waiting for interrupt
** 8GB microSD Class 10 (44012) - ArchLinux - boots, but after system update develops segmentation faults
** 8GB SDHC Class 10 (Premium) - Tested with September release of Raspbian and Debian Wheezy - both fail to boot with mmc errors.

The usual warnings against less reputable sellers (such as Ebay merchants) apply.

Note that the following error is sometimes accompanied with a non-working SD card after booting (on Debian):

mmc0: timeout waiting for hardware interrupt

=== Benchmarks ===

* http://www.sakoman.com/OMAP/microsd-card-perfomance-test-results.html
* http://usbspeed.nirsoft.net/usb_drive_speed_summary.html?o=11
* http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4076
* http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1005633 (Doesn't originate from R-Pi, but very related)

== Foreign Language Translations ==
* [[Ru:RaspberryPiBoardVerifiedPeripherals]]

== References ==
<references>
</references>

{{Template:Raspberry Pi}}

RPi 5V PSU construction

2012-11-06T12:41:01Z

Pinoccio: grammar ;)

[[Category: RaspberryPi]]
{{Template:RPi_Hardware}}

== A 5V power supply for the Raspberry Pi - Construction How To ==

Due to various problems with the power supply for the RaspberryPi, a home made PSU might be a solution for some of you.
You will need some experience with construction of electronic circuits, appropriate tools and a multimeter.

I have had problems with a cheap 5V/1A adapter from Ebay too (freezing, no LAN, etc.) ... The adapter could not provide enough power. It had 5.0xV unloaded, but with RaspberryPi connected I've measured 4.78V and less - dropping to 4.5V on TP1 and TP2 <ref>http://elinux.org/R-Pi_Troubleshooting#Troubleshooting_power_problems</ref>, and that's not good. The voltage drop might be partially caused by the cable, but I've used a branded Nokia cable that looks pretty solid. Anyway, we have to compensate for that too. Also there is some voltage drop on the polyfuse F3 (typically 0.1-0.2V, fuse should have about 0.2 Ohms <ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=19033</ref>), hence don't expect to get >=5.0V on TP1-TP2... 
<gallery>
File:ebay_cheap_5V_adaptor1.jpg|Cheap PSU
File:ebay_cheap_5V_adaptor2.jpg|Cheap PSU - inside
</gallery>

So instead of looking for another PSU (or cell phone charger), I decided to make my own PSU with the popular 7805 - 5V/1A regulator <ref>http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/What-is-a-LM7805-voltage-regulator</ref> <ref>http://www.circuitstune.com/2012/09/7805-voltage-regulator-circuit-7805-pinout.html</ref>. ''(There is also a 2A version available - 78'''S'''05)''

'''The basic idea is shown on this schematic:'''

[[File:PSU_7805_v01.jpg|none]]

The resistors R1 and R2 serve as adjustment of the output voltage (~ 5.25V). The formula is: ''V out = V fixed + { R2 [ (V fixed/R1) + I standby] }'', where ''V fixed=5V'' and ''I standby=2.5mA'' (for 7805). I calculated for resistors that I had at home, but for best results R1 should be about 470ohm to 1k. Remember that resistors have some tolerance, so results may vary slightly, always measure. Value of C3 is not critical, I recommend 100-470uF. Same for C4, where for every 1A drawn, use 1000uF of capacity (and add some reserve). Don't forget to put C1 and C2 as close as possible to the regulator. And a heatsink for the regulator is necessary too.

''I've used an old 9.5V/1500mA power supply from an printer as the source for this regulator, so no transformer and rectifier etc. was needed in my case. And it works just fine :)''

'''Here is a schematic of a complete PSU including all components:''' 
(a suggestion, with better filtering and protection)

[[File:PSU_7805_v02.jpg|none]]

Starting from left, we have a transformer (protected by a fuse - F1) supplying about 7-12V AC at 2A (use what you have at home or what is cheaper to buy). Next is a rectifier (or 4 diodes / >1A) with caps (C7-C10, for filtering). Now we should have approx. <AC voltage> x 1.41 - so if we have a 9V transformer, it will be about 12.69V. The 7805 needs at least 2V<ref>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/78xx</ref> (depending on type/manufacturer) more on the input than on the output (I prefer using a little more, >=3V to be sure) for stable regulation, and it can be up to 35V (but a big difference between input and output voltage means "a lot work" for the regulator and a lot heating). In this case, 8-9V DC measured after the rectifier would be optimal. Main filtering is ensured by C4 (use at least 1000uF for each 1A drawn), another filtering after the regulator is C3 (100-470uF). C1-C6 serve the 7805 for stable function and HF filtering. R1 and R2 adjust the voltage to 5.25V, as described before. D1 and D2 are for protection. A transil is used for over-voltage (peaks) protection on the output, a 5V8 type should be fine (5.8V reverse standoff voltage and approx. 6.2V breakdown voltage) - use P6KE6.8A or BZW06-5V8. For operation signaling (device on) a LED coupled with R3 is used. You may use another fuse on the output - F2.

This is a rather fancy circuit, you may simplify it if you like - by leaving out C7-C10, C5, C6, D1, D2, LED and R3, F2 (and the transil, if you don't want any protection). Or leave just some of them. Your choice ;)

'''Also if you prefer to fine-tune the output voltage, you may replace R2 with a small pot (trimmer) as shown here:'''

[[File:PSU_7805_v03.jpg|none]]

With this values (R1=1k, R2=100) adjustment from 5V to approx. 5.75V is possible.

=== Resources on 7805 ===
For more info about the 7805 regulator, [http://www.google.com/search?q=7805+datasheet google the datasheet] and see the following resources.

Resource links: 
[http://www.rason.org/Projects/regulator/regulator.htm The Adjustable Voltage Regulator], 
[http://www.circuitstoday.com/variable-power-supply-using-7805 Variable power supply using 7805], 
or [http://www.google.com/search?q=7805+regulator google more]

=== The testing prototype ===
This is my testing prototype of this PSU, based on the first schematic. It's made of "what was found in the drawer". I've used an old 7805 regulator in TO3 package <ref>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TO-3</ref>, C3 was taken from some broken mainboard, C4 is left out (it's not necessary, because the circuit is powered by a stable power supply from some old printer). The PSU provides stable 5.25V and i have 4.82V on TP1-TP2. My RaspberryPi works OK now :) 
<gallery>
File:RPi_5V_PSU_proto1_Pinoccio.jpg|5V PSU prototype
File:RPi_5V_PSU_proto2_Pinoccio.jpg|5V PSU prototype
File:RPi_5V_PSU_proto3_Pinoccio.jpg|5V PSU prototype
File:RPi_5V_PSU_proto4_Pinoccio.jpg|5V PSU prototype
</gallery>
I will make another PSU (for permanent operation) later - new 7805 in TO-220 package <ref>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TO-220</ref>, appropriate heatsink, 1k resistor for R1 and a small pot for R2, new "fresh" caps and a transil, usb connector on PCB ... and I'll put it in some case.

~#Pinoccio

== Other PSU options ==

Simple switched PSU ''(with LM2576)'': [http://www.themagpi.com The MagPi - Issue 6] - page 8+9, 
And more info on LM2576 <ref>http://www.ti.com/product/lm2576</ref> : [http://www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/lm2576-step-down-switching-regulator.php link], [http://wiringschematic.net/lm2576-switching-regulator/ link], [http://www.siongboon.com/projects/2005-08-07_lm2576_dc-dc_converter/ link]

== Mobile battery power supply options ==

A Battery Elminator Circuit (BEC) should be able provide a solid 5V output at upto 3A which will be plenty to handle the load on a normal RPi

Something like http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__15212__HobbyKing_Micro_UBEC_3A_5v.html
Connect this BEC to a 3S LiPo 5000mAh batter and you should get 15 hours of run time off one full charge.
You could also connect it directly to a 12v car battery for even longer run time.

== Over-voltage protection ==
Here is a nice upgrade for your PSU - a over-voltage protection circuit ''(see [http://blog.3b2.sk/igi/post/Tipy-a-triky-011-Prepatova-ochrana-Voltage-protect-Tips-tricks.aspx original post] in Slovak language)''. It can protect your device (RPi) from unwanted damage by high voltage from a faulty/malfunctioning PSU. In such case, it will short-circuit and burn its fuse immediately.

[[File:5v_overvoltage_protection.jpg|none]]

Steps:
* choose appropriate fuse (according to expected load): 1-1.5A (fast type)
* first don't put the fuse in its holder - you have to initially adjust the circuit, so use a piece of wire (or you can use a lower-current fuse too if you don't mind spending/burning it during the adjustment process)
* set the 2k2 pot (trimmer) to its max. value
* connect protection circuit to a power supply (if available a stabilized lab-PSU is preferred), set to 5.25V output (max. for USB; or exact 5V if you want) and 1-1.5A current limit
* now slowly turn the 2k2 pot until the PSU's current-limiter goes on (or the fuse burns - if you chose that option)
* well done, disconnect, now replace wire with your fuse and you're good to go

== References ==
<references/>

{{Template:Raspberry Pi}}

eLinux.org:RPi Council

2012-10-16T12:42:48Z

Pinoccio: /* Official language */ personal opinion

{{Hub Flags}}
{{Clear}}
Because of the messed up stuff on the Raspberry Pi wiki, I have found it necessary to create a governing council for the RPi wiki. Please edit the below section if you'd like to become a member (alderman) of the council.

Note: This is official and is ok with the administration of eLinux.

== Supplemental guidelines ==
''If anything is wrong with these guidelines please feel free to edit them. Thank you.''
=== Guidelines are made from consensus ===
All supplemental guidelines and decisions will now be made by the RPWC and eLinux administration.

== Current council aldermen ==
* President - [[User:Jeff|Jeff]]
* [[User:TrevorGowen|Trevor Gowen]]

== Current issues ==
=== Users ===
==== Mahjongg ====
<s>As he is not answering my requests for identity, he may be impersonating Mahjongg on the forums. I propose the account be blocked indefinitely because it clearly is copying the RPi forum mod's user name.</s> --[[User:Jeff|'''Jeff''']] • [[User_talk:Jeff|(talk)]] [[File:RaspPi.png|25px|link=|Member of the RPWC]] [[Project:RPi_Council|RPWC President]] [[File:RaspPi.png|25px|link=|Member of the RPWC]] 12:26, 5 October 2012 (UTC)
:Verified thru PM. Case closed. :) --[[User:Jeff|'''Jeff''']] • [[User_talk:Jeff|(talk)]] [[File:RaspPi.png|25px|link=|Member of the RPWC]] [[Project:RPi_Council|RPWC President]] [[File:RaspPi.png|25px|link=|Member of the RPWC]] 21:16, 5 October 2012 (UTC)

==== Ghans ====
I propose that since he ruined a lot of formatting that he is not to edit the Raspberry Pi Wiki's formatting for 1 month. You can see clearly [[RPi Wiki Best Practice|here]]. He, in fact, misguided everyone in best practices! I want you to go to Wikipedia and take a hard stare and compare the articles! They are misleading! He clearly cannot go on with this! Anyone else agree? --[[User:Jeff|Jeff]] 02:15, 2 October 2012 (UTC) '''Edit: and also add a block of 1 month if he does not comply.''' --[[User:Jeff|Jeff]] 22:39, 2 October 2012 (UTC) 
(Note: This decision must be concluded by Wednesday, October 3, 2012.)
:Having compared [[RPi Wiki Best Practice|Ghans' "Best Practice"]] with which, I believe, are the equivalent areas of Wikipedia and parts of the Help sections here I can see what you mean. However, using Wikipedia as a guide, one also has to assume that he was writing with the best of intentions. Unfortunately he does not reveal much about his background, experience etc. on his user page. However, having had the experience of encouraging "best practice" within a mixed group of programmer's of different backgrounds (scientific, computational) and training (formal, informal, none), I am well aware that when considering adopting such from a related area, one also has to consider the needs etc. of the intended users ie. adopt as much as is appropriate, adapt or reject the remainder. An analogy would be that when preparing a presentation one may end up with several versions depending upon the expected audience. Hence, whilst I am prepared to support your proposal, it is on the understanding that this is done so to allow us to begin to formulate more suitable guidelines, given that, eventually, hopefully, there will be younger, enthusiastic but less experienced contributers whom I would not wish to discourage. --[[User:TrevorGowen|TrevorGowen]] 14:40, 2 October 2012 (UTC)
::So you're a support? --[[User:Jeff|Jeff]] 22:32, 2 October 2012 (UTC)
:::Assuming I'm interpreting your update above correctly, to mean that he is requested to refrain from edits that change formatting aspects of the Raspbery Pi sections of the Wiki for one month and ignores that request, yes. Hopefully such a request will generate a response, therebye opening up a dialogue, which may resolve matters such that a formal block need not be imposed. --[[User:TrevorGowen|TrevorGowen]] 12:09, 3 October 2012 (UTC)
I guess I will close this with a warning to Ghans. Block not implemented. --[[User:Jeff|'''Jeff''']] • [[User_talk:Jeff|(talk)]] [[File:RaspPi.png|25px|link=|Member of the RPWC]] [[Project:RPi_Council|RPWC President]] [[File:RaspPi.png|25px|link=|Member of the RPWC]] 12:39, 3 October 2012 (UTC)

=== Content ===
==== Shutdown of most other language "hubs" ====
'''Due to the importance of this topic, ''everyone'' is invited to post their opinions, even users that are not a council member.''' 
These hubs serve no purpose but to point the respective language speakers to English pages. This is utterly useless. If I only spoke Greek, I would be able to understand the hub, but the hub's purpose is to link to other pages. Unfortunately I would ask a Greek community for help because the links are to ENGLISH pages! Why don't we just tell everyone a bold message: THIS IS AN ENGLISH WIKI! I propose to redirect all these pages to the English page; as for the template Hub Flags, I propose it be renamed as the RPi Hub header, or something like so. --[[User:Jeff|'''Jeff''']] • [[User_talk:Jeff|(talk)]] [[File:RaspPi.png|25px|link=|Member of the RPWC]] [[Project:RPi_Council|RPWC President]] [[File:RaspPi.png|25px|link=|Member of the RPWC]] 01:27, 11 October 2012 (UTC) 
'''This shall be concluded on Friday, October 12, 2012 at 9:00pm (21:00) Eastern Standard Time, or whenever an obvious consensus closes.'''
:Is this for real?... it goes against the actions of the Raspberry Pi Foundation, see http://www.raspberrypi.org/archives/1715. If they want to spread their Forum into multiple languages, then so should the wiki. [[User:Simon Small|SimonSmall]] 20:31, 11 October 2012 (UTC)
::'''THIS IS NEITHER CONTROLLED BY NOR SANCTIONED BY THE RASPI FOUNDATION'''. Unless YOU want to make all the different language pages, you really need to knock some sense into yourself. --[[User:Jeff|'''Jeff''']] • [[User_talk:Jeff|(talk)]] [[File:RaspPi.png|25px|link=|Member of the RPWC]] [[Project:RPi_Council|RPWC President]] [[File:RaspPi.png|25px|link=|Member of the RPWC]] 22:57, 11 October 2012 (UTC)
:Whilst it is my understanding that this section of the eLinux Wiki was created by members of the Raspi Foundation's forum (who, presumably, were already active contributors here), most of the non-english language pages appear to have been created in the early part of 2012 '''before''' the Raspberry Pi was generally available. As the number of active RasPi users grew, it was somewhat inevitable that contributions to this wiki area would increase. Unfortunately this has been at such a pace that, even where there had been significant translation effort in the early stages, at present, there appear to be too few people with the necessary skills to maintain those pages. I certainly don't have them (my French skills learned some 45 years ago are far too "rusty"). From the RPWC's president's comments above, I assume he's in a similar position. Hence, until such time that there are enough RPWC members with sufficient skills and "spare" time to properly check/moderate any translated pages, I agree that it is probably necessary to "shut them down". However, out of respect for the effort put into those early pages, I hope that such a shutdown will not result in complete deletion (where there has been significant effort), just in case their restoration becomes viable. --[[User:TrevorGowen|TrevorGowen]] 17:52, 12 October 2012 (UTC)

=== Supplemental guidelines ===
==== This isn't the RPi Forums ====
This will officially tell all that the RPi Forums are not how the RPi Wiki works! Closes whenever consensus is apparently reached. --[[User:Jeff|'''Jeff''']] • [[User_talk:Jeff|(talk)]] [[File:RaspPi.png|25px|link=|Member of the RPWC]] [[Project:RPi_Council|RPWC President]] [[File:RaspPi.png|25px|link=|Member of the RPWC]] 23:01, 11 October 2012 (UTC)

==== Official language ====
'''Note: Due to the importance of this topic, all users, regardless of RPWC membership, may discuss this.'''
As amending to the above, English should be the official language of the wiki. We are in Amnet/Engnet/Euronet, not Runet or Chinet, so let's just say ENGLISH really should be the official language. --[[User:Jeff|'''Jeff''']] • [[User_talk:Jeff|(talk)]] [[File:RaspPi.png|25px|link=|Member of the RPWC]] [[Project:RPi_Council|RPWC President]] [[File:RaspPi.png|25px|link=|Member of the RPWC]] 01:37, 11 October 2012 (UTC)
(closes on Friday)

I strongly disagree with that opinion. If you do make all hub page point to english, what is the point of having translation? You are not alone on this planet. A hole bunch of people don't speak (read) english at all.

The point of having translation, is to offer the same information in different languages so as much as possible persons can read thing about the RPi. I know that it is not possible (practically speaking) to have all hub pages having the same exact information but at least the info is there in as much language possible.

If you make english to only language here (even if just for the hub) people will go else where for a wiki and all your good work will be of no use. Just look around http://frenchmagpi.site-mpe.fr/index.php/Accueil, the magpi is being translated to french, issue 5 is already published and issue 6 is in good progress.

In my opinion, "my language is the official one" opinion is selfish and close minded. The goal of a public wiki on the web like this one is to let people share as much as possible their information. Look at the succes of wikipedia, it is available in I don't know many language, there are pages on the same subject in many many languages that don't have all the same information but at least there is information for every one and a lot more people can find information than if just english is available.

It is ok to have the default page point to the english hub but keep the flag and translated hub available to all. Do not trow to garbage the work of all the people who translated (updated) the hub to there own language.

Papillon
:: Thank you for your comments - I've been waiting for further contributions to this discussion since, without proper feedback from the wiki users, this "council" has no mandate for its efforts. Personally, I do not like the term "official language", and feel it would be more appropriate to use the term "primary language". Whilst this wiki has "public access", it appears to be "privately hosted", hence I do not regard it as a "public wiki" like wikipedia. I've already indicated above that I do not wish the existing translation work to be "thrown away", however, some of the "translated hubs" appear to be "skeletal forms" with minimal content. As such they are potentially misleading as to the level and quality of content of this area of work. Should such pages be marked more clearly with their "translation status" (in their "native" language '''and''' English), and with the category "needs editing" (or similar) then I'd be much happier for them to remain linked to.--[[User:TrevorGowen|TrevorGowen]] 08:34, 16 October 2012 (UTC)

Hi, I'm not an English native speaker either - and I agree with the proposal of having English as the primary language ... but also with keeping of the already created translations and the hub - in maybe some form of "unofficial" sub-pages without guarantee that they contain the same/verified/complete information. If they really posses any valuable information rather than being just a fork pointing to English articles, they should be kept available (at least as read-only), otherwise it's rational to clean up. The term "official language" may not be the best choice, "primary language" sounds much better, but in my belief this is not about any selfishness, discrimination or anything else than an effort to keep this wiki well organized, readable, oriented on quality content, brief and clear. Maybe the language-hub can be placed somewhere at the bottom or as a sidebar menu (change to official wiki style?) with a clear marking, that its purpose is to provide extra space for smaller communities of people speaking other languages, and/or as some kind of mirrored clones with basic info from the main pages. Well, if that's what this wiki's objectives are... I understand very well that, this wiki may have a specific orientation and every contributor should respect the rules. Also, one wiki cannot meet everybody's wishes. There are plenty other options for specific language oriented wikis, forums, creating own, etc. On the other hand, if there is someone who would like to take over the role of an editor for a specific language and properly maintain the contents of that pages, I'm sure he will be greatly welcome. One more note - everybody should be aware that this is not a official Raspberry Pi Foundation's wiki. It is a publicly available private wiki (notwithstanding that it is created mostly by public community) for embedded Linux systems in general (correct me if necessary), where RPi is one of such systems/devices. It just happened to be the best available place for this purpose at the time, and thus the Raspberry Pi Foundation simply provided a link to this wiki (instead of creating its own, having to maintain it, moderate, etc.). We should be happy for having this place available for public collaboration. But without proper administration, it may easily become just a mess of unreadable contributions and literally lose its point... Who would want that? ;) --[[User:Pinoccio|Pinoccio]] 14:30, 16 October 2012 (UTC)

==== Wiki Design principles ====

<s>All good things require a good design. To improve this site, we should (re)define / clarify its purpose. The following principles are suggested:

Users of the Raspberry Pi will be of three types (or a mixture of these);
(a) competent Linux user,
(b) experienced hardware and/or software modifier / hobbyist
(c) beginner

Each page should consider WHY a reader would be using that page.

A competent Linux user would only want to know how to get the Raspberry Pi working and set up, and any 'peculiarities' relating to the hardware or Linux distribution. The hobbyist would additionally want to know how to use the GPIO ports and associated software, or how to modify / build the distribution or packages not included in that distribution. There should be clear pointers on the first page for the sections relating to these groups.

The beginner will need careful guidance in their first steps. For this, instructions should be clear:
* they lead the user from what they know into what they don't, with each step being small and simple with the 'objective' clearly defined.
* they use simple steps, and should skip optional complications that are not relevant to the current 'lesson', e.g. half of the raspi-config settings are 'advanced'.
* they should include a link to complete documentation for the topic, with a warning that this may cover advanced material, e.g. full raspi-config instructions.
* the writer should take into account that the site, and users, will be global, with english as a second language.
* the writer should take into account the variations of hardware and distribution installed, e.g. the raspi-config utility is not available in many distributions.
* the instructions should clearly state if they are specific to a particular set up, or are 'date sensitive' to changes.
* pages should be separated into GUI and command line pages and flows.
* instructions should be free from point-of-view opinions.
* instructions should link to 'choice' pages that give pros and cons regarding that choice, e.g. which text editor should be used and if it is available / installable.

The beginner guidance should stop at the point where other sites can take over, e.g. once sufficient Linux has been covered, other Linux sites can provide more advanced or specific information. It should also be aligned to the objectives stated by the Raspberry Pi Foundation for why the Raspberry Pi exists.

Proposal, in absence of anything similar. [[User:Simon Small|SimonSmall]] 16:54, 4 October 2012 (UTC)</s>
:I strongly oppose this. We should NEVER split users into "social classes" and English is our official language, just as English is the Raspberry Pi's preferred language. I think this overhaul is too much right now. Why don't we focus on something else first? Also, you can't make proposals unless you already are a council alderman, in which case, as of my posting time, you currently are not. --[[User:Jeff|'''Jeff''']] • [[User_talk:Jeff|(talk)]] [[File:RaspPi.png|25px|link=|Member of the RPWC]] [[Project:RPi_Council|RPWC President]] [[File:RaspPi.png|25px|link=|Member of the RPWC]] 01:40, 5 October 2012 (UTC)
::As you clearly don't know much about a wiki, I suggest you become more mature when you apply for alderman in the future. I have rejected your request for aldermanship. --[[User:Jeff|'''Jeff''']] • [[User_talk:Jeff|(talk)]] [[File:RaspPi.png|25px|link=|Member of the RPWC]] [[Project:RPi_Council|RPWC President]] [[File:RaspPi.png|25px|link=|Member of the RPWC]] 01:43, 5 October 2012 (UTC)
:::Interesting. Explanation? Quote from above "If anything is wrong with these guidelines please feel free to edit them. Thank you." This raises two questions; (1) What is being done to fix the Wiki? (2) How will (the wiki) encourage new users to contribute, especially the enthusiastic but inexperienced who likely form the target demographic? [[User:Simon Small|SimonSmall]] 21:45, 5 October 2012 (UTC)
::::That means minor changes, not major, overhauling changes. Also, nothing is ''wrong'' with the guidelines! --[[User:Jeff|'''Jeff''']] • [[User_talk:Jeff|(talk)]] [[File:RaspPi.png|25px|link=|Member of the RPWC]] [[Project:RPi_Council|RPWC President]] [[File:RaspPi.png|25px|link=|Member of the RPWC]] 04:30, 7 October 2012 (UTC)

== If you are interested edit here ==
'''Please indicate your interest in joining the council below here, along with a link to your userpage.'''

User:Pinoccio

2012-10-13T09:09:10Z

Pinoccio: Created page with "=== Pinoccio === * IT engineer & electronics hobbyist & some more ;) * check out my Power Supply construction - HowTo"

=== Pinoccio ===
* IT engineer & electronics hobbyist & some more ;)
* check out my [[RPi 5V PSU construction|Power Supply construction - HowTo]]

RaspberryPi Boards

2012-10-13T09:00:11Z

Pinoccio: userlink

==Hardware versions/revisions==
Several different boards have been found probably from different assembly lines, and the following table tries to help you identify your board for better troubleshooting.
These differences are being debated on raspberrypi.org on this thread [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=9524&start=25]

For what we can see for model B boards there are mainly two versions that differ on the type RAM used, Samsung (S) and Hynix (H).

Note: For '''Board ver.''' we used: <model><RAM Maker><production date> (ex.: BS1218 is "Model B, Samsung RAM, 18th week of 2012")
Look for the date of manufacturing printed with the year and week (back side, board edge near LAN connector). In this example year (2012) and week (18th):[[File:Date_of_manufacturing.jpg|200px|thumb|right]]

'''Model A:'''
{| border="1" class="wikitable"
|-
! Board
ver.
! RAM
Chip
! USB
Chip
! C6
! F1 / F2
Ref. & Ohm
! RG2
! Reported issues / Feedback
! Front
! Back
! Seen from
! Owner
|-
| Ayxxxx
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|}

'''Model B:'''
{| border="1" class="wikitable"
|-
! Board
ver.
! RAM
Chip
! USB
Chip
! C6
! F1 / F2
Ref. & Ohm
! RG2
! Reported issues / Feedback
! Front
! Back
! Seen from
! Owner
|-
| BS1215
| Samsung
| SMSC
| <pre>220
16V
EEZ</pre>
| ?
? / ?
|
|
* None
|
|
| Farnell
| SN
|-
| BS1215
| Samsung
| SMSC
| <pre>n2
220
UD</pre>
| ?
? / ?
|
|
* None
|
|
| Farnell
| SN
|-
| BS1215
| Samsung <pre>216
K4P2G324ED-AGC1
GA30419V</pre>
| SMSC <pre>LAN9512-JZX
B1211-A1B17
BR149884A
CTI-TW</pre>
| <pre>n2
220C
UD</pre>
| 14
? / ?
| <pre>SE8117733
943-1F</pre>
|
* None
|
|
| Farnell
| AndrewS
|-
| BS1218
| Samsung<pre>216
K4P26324ED-AGC1
GAL0839V</pre>
| SMSC<pre>
LAN9512-JZX
B1212-A1B17
BR149884S</pre>
| <pre>220
16V
EE5</pre>
| T014
3.8 / 4.4
| <pre>SE8117T33
1213-LF</pre>
|
* None
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_A-Front.JPG|100px|thumb|center]]
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_A-Back.JPG|100px|thumb|center]]
| Farnell
| marcoalexcampos
|-
| BS1218
| Samsung<pre>216
K4P26324ED-AGC1
GAJ0419C</pre>
| SMSC<pre>
LAN9512-JZX
B1212-A1B17
BR149884S</pre>
| <pre>220
16V
EE5</pre>
| T014
5.8 / 3.9
| <pre>SE8117T33
1213-LF</pre>
|
* None
| [[File:Antijn_raspi_farnell_top.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| [[File:Antijn_raspi_farnell_bot.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| Farnell
| antijn
|-
| BS1218
| Samsung
| ?
| <pre></pre>
| ?
? / ?
|
|
* None
| [[File:RaspberryPi-BS1218-Front-JakeBlues.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| [[File:RaspberryPi-BS1218-Back-JakeBlues.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| Farnell
| JakeBlues
|-

| BH1208
| Hynix <pre>
H9TKNNN2GDMP
LANDM 149A
</pre>
| SMSC<pre>
LAN9512-JZX
B1134-A1B17
8R147769B
STA-SG
</pre>
| <pre>220
16V
EE2</pre>
| 14
| <pre>
SE8117T33
1001-LF</pre>
|
* No issues after getting a good power supply
* Note the SMSC is 8R149482C which I suspect is the same for the others.
* Ethernet: LU1S041ALF 1018M
| [[File:RaspberryPi-BS1208-Front-MarkBeckett.JPG|100px|thumb|center]]
| [[File:RaspberryPi-BS1208-Back-MarkBeckett.JPG|100px|thumb|center]]
| Farnell
| MarkBeckett
|-

| BH1219
| Hynix <pre>
H9TKNNN2GDMP
LANDM 218A
</pre>
| SMSC<pre>
LAN9512-JZX
B1206-A1B17
8R149471A
CTI-TW
</pre>
| <pre>220
16V
2E2</pre>
| T014
| <pre>
SE8117T33
1217-LF</pre>
|
* No issues
* Ethernet: HanRun HR901110A 1220
| [[File:RaspberryPI_1219_RS_Pi_1_MCB1.JPG|100px|thumb|center]]
| [[File:RaspberryPI_1219_RS_Pi_2_MCB1.JPG|100px|thumb|center]]
| RS
| MarkBeckett
|-
| BH1218
| Hynix <pre>H9TKNNN2GDMP
LRNOM 217A</pre>
| SMSC<pre>
LAN9512-JZX
B1215-A1B17
BR1501888</pre>
| <pre>2E
220
16H</pre>
| 14
6.4 / 5.0
| <pre>SE8117T33
1213-LF</pre>
|
* USB/Keyboard/LAN issues
| [[File:Antijn_raspi_RS_top.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| [[File:Antijn_raspi_RS_bot.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| RS
| antijn
|-
| BH1218
| Hynix <pre>
H9TKNNN2GDMP
LRNDM 217A</pre>
| SMSC<pre>
LAN9512-JZX
B1215-A1817
BR1494828</pre>
| <pre>2E
220
16H</pre>
| 14
6.1 / 5.6
| <pre>
SE8117T33
1213-LF</pre>
|
* "I haven't had any issues"[http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=9524&start=50]
* Ethernet HR901110A 1211
* E2112RSV1.0B1.1
|
|
| RS
| dukla2000
|-
| BS1219
| Samsung
| SMSC
| <pre>2E
220
16H
</pre>
| T014
? / ?
| <pre>SE8117T33
1213-LF</pre>
|
* None
| [[File:RaspberryPi-A1219-Front.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| [[File:RaspberryPi-A1219-Back.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| Farnell
| Troublesome
|-
| BH1208
| Hynix
| SMSC
| <pre>220
16V
EE2</pre>
| 14
? / ?
| ?
|
* None
| [[File:Raspberry-pi-top.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| [[File:Raspberry-pi-bottom.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| Farnell
| selsinork
|-
| BH1213
| Hynix
| SMSC
| <pre>n2
220c
UD</pre>
| 14
? / ?
| <blank>
|
* None
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_C-Front.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_C-Back.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| RS
|
|-
| BH1213
| Hynix
<pre>h9tknnn2c0mp
landm 1494</pre>
| SMSC
<pre>lan9512-jzx
b1134 a1b17 8r14
77698
sta-sg</pre>
| <pre>n2
220c
UD</pre>
| 14
? / ?
| <blank>
|
* "pretty stable"
| [[File:RaspberryPi-B1213-Front-RaTTuS.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| [[File:RaspberryPi-B1213-Back-RaTTuS.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| Farnell
| RaTTuS
|-
| BS12xx
| Samsung
<pre>216 k4p
26324ED
agc1</pre>
| SMSC
<pre>lan9512-jzx
b1212 a1b17
br149884b
cti-tw</pre>
| <pre>220
16V
EE5</pre>
| ?
? / ?
|
|
* OK "has not been stress tested yet"
|
|
| Farnell
| RaTTuS
|-
| BH1218
| Hynix
<pre>h9trnnn2g0mp
lrndm 217a</pre>
| SMSC
<pre>lan9512-jzy
b1215-a1b17
ase-tw</pre>
| <pre>2e
220
16h</pre>
| 14
? / ?
| <pre>Se8117t33
12-13 cf</pre>
|
* "stable good runner overclocked to 900mhz"
| [[File:RaspberryPi-B1218-Front-RaTTuS.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| [[File:RaspberryPi-B1218-Back-RaTTuS.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| RS
| RaTTuS
|-
| BH1218
| Hynix
| SMSC<pre>
LAN9512-JZX
B1215-A1B17
BR150188A
ASE-TW (e3)</pre>
| <pre>2E
220
16H</pre>
| 14
8.2 / 5.9
| <pre>SE8117T33
1213-LF</pre>
|
* USB/Keyboard/LAN power down[http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=109984#p109984]
*
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_B-Front.JPG|100px|thumb|center]]
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_B-Back.JPG|100px|thumb|center]]
| RS
| marcoalexcampos
|-
| BH1218
| Hynix
| SMSC
| <pre>2B
220
16H</pre>
| ?
6-7 / 6-7
|
|
* None
|
|
| RS
| SN
|-
| BH1218
| Hynix
| SMSC
| <pre>2B
220
16H</pre>
| ?
? / ?
|
|
* None
|
|
| RS
|
|-
| BH1218
| Hynix
| SMSC
| <pre>2E
220
16H</pre>
| F014
? / ?
| <pre>SE8117T33
1213-LF</pre>
|
* None
| [[File:RaspberryPi-B1218-Front.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| [[File:RaspberryPi-B1218-Back.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| RS
| Troublesome
|-
| BH1218
| Hynix <pre>H9TKNNN2GDMP
LANDM 217A</pre>
| SMSC
<pre>LAN9512-JZX
B1215-A1B17
BR150188B
ASE-TW (e3)</pre>
| <pre>2E
220
16H</pre>
| 14
6.9 / 5.9
| <pre>SE8117T33
1213-LF</pre>
|
* None
|[[File:RPi1T.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
|[[File:RPi1B.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| RS
| Mortimer
|-
| BH1218
| Hynix <pre>H9TKNNN2GDMP
LANDM 218A</pre>
| SMSC
<pre>LAN9512-JZX
B1215-A1B17
BR150188A
ASE-TW (e3)</pre>
| <pre>2E
220
16H</pre>
| 14
? / ?
| <pre>SE8117T33
1213-LF</pre>
|
* None
|[[File:RPi2T.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
|[[File:RPi2B.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| RS
| Mortimer
|-
| BH1218
| Hynix
<pre>
H9TKNNN2GDMP
LRNOM 217A
</pre>
| SMSC
<pre>
LAN9512-JZX
B1215-A1B17
8R150188B
ASE-TW (e3)
</pre>
| <pre>2E
22-
16H</pre>
| 14
? / ?
| <pre>SE8117T33
1213-LF</pre>
|
* D1 shorted when attaching a Neewer HDMI to VGA adapter. The adapter has had no other tests and the raspberry pi's HDMI output has not been connected to any other devices before or since.
| [[File:RaspberryPi-BH1218-Front-Tom1989.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| [[File:RaspberryPi-BH1218-Back-Tom1989.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| RS
| Tom1989
|-
| BH1208
| Hynix <pre>H9TKNNN2GDMP
LANDM 149A</pre>
| SMSC
<pre>LAN9512-JZX
B1134-A1B17
BR147769B
STA-SG</pre>
| <pre>220
16V
EE2</pre>
| ?
? / ?
| <pre>SE8117T33
1001-LF</pre>
|
* Stable, powers up off any charger. Powers off laptop USB without any issues
* Ethernet: LU1S041ALF 1018M
|
|
| Farnell
| Tass
|-
| BH1213
| Hynix <pre>H9TKNNN2GDMP
LANDM 149A</pre>
| SMSC
<pre>LAN9512-JZX
B1134-A1B17
BR147769B
STA-SG</pre>
| <pre>n2
220C
UD</pre>
| ?
? / ?
| <pre>SE8117T33
943-LF</pre>
|
* Stable, no power issues (not thouroughly tested)
* Ethernet: HR901110A 1211|
|
|
| RS
| Tass
|-
| BH1218
| Hynix <pre>H9TKNNN2GDMP
LANDM 217A</pre>
| SMSC
<pre>LAN9512-JZX
B1216-A1B17
8R149482C
ASE-TW (e3)</pre>
| <pre>2E
220
16H</pre>
| 14
14 / 5.1
| <pre>SE8117T33
1213-LF</pre>
|
* Up headless with Squeeze and Wheezy for ~six weeks, light duty, no problems
* Ethernet: HR901110A 1211
|[[File:Rpi001F.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
|[[File:Rpi001R.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| RS
| Davidm870
|-
| BS1218
| Samsung <pre>216
K42P2G324ED-AGG1
GAL0839T</pre>
| SMSC
<pre>LAN9512-JZX
B1212-A1B17
8R149885A
ASE-TW (e3)</pre>
| <pre>220
16V
EE5</pre>
| T014
T014 / ?
| <pre>SE8117T33
1213-LF</pre>
|
* Comes upp headless with Wheezy, not tested extensively
* Ethernet: HR901110A 1218
|[[File:Rpi002F.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
|[[File:Rpi002R.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| Farnell
| Davidm870
|-
| BS1219
| Samsung <pre>216
K4P2G324ED-AGC1
GAL0859V</pre>
| SMSC
<pre>LAN9512-JZX
B1216-A1B17
8R149482C
ASE-TW (e3)</pre>
| <pre>2E
220
16H
</pre>
| T014
2.9ohm / 3.0ohm
| <pre>SE8117T33
0941-LF</pre>
|
* First had problems (freezing, no LAN, etc.) due to low quality power supply - cheap ebay adaptor. Solved with own [[RPi_5V_PSU_construction| PSU construction]] with 7805 stabiliser adjusted to 5.25V. Now works OK with Raspbian “wheezy”, but not yet tested extensively.
* Ethernet: HR901110A 1220
* F3 0.3ohm
| [[File:RPi-BS1219-Front_Pinoccio.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| [[File:RPi-BS1219-Back_Pinoccio.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| Farnell
| [[User:Pinoccio|Pinoccio]]
|-
| BS1219
| Samsung <pre>216
K4P2G324ED-AGC1
GAL0859D</pre>
| SMSC
<pre>LAN9512-JZX
B1216-A1B17
8R149482C
ASE-TW (e3)</pre>
| <pre>2E
220
16H
</pre>
| T014 / T014
? / ?
| <pre>SE8117T33
0941-LF</pre>
|
* No issues
* Ethernet: HanRun HR901110A 1220
* FN120659744
| [[File:RPi-BS1219-Front_slabua.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| [[File:RPi-BS1219-Back_slabua.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| Farnell
| [SLB] [http://twitter.com/slabua @slabua]
|-
| BH1222
| Hynix <pre>H9TKNNN2GDMP
LANDM 214A</pre>
| SMSC
<pre>LAN9512-JZX
B1215-A1B17
8R148168E
ASE-TW (e3)</pre>
| <pre>2E
220
16H
</pre>
| T014 / T014
? / ?
| <pre>SE8117T33
1217-LF</pre>
|
* No issues
* Ethernet: HanRun HR901110A 1225
* E2712RSV1.0B1.1
| [[File:RPi-BH1222-Front_slabua.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| [[File:RPi-BH1222-Back_slabua.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| RS
| [SLB] [http://twitter.com/slabua @slabua]
|-
| BS1224
| Samsung <pre>222
K4P2G324ED-AGC1
GAA0419T</pre>
| SMSC
<pre>LAN9512-JZX
B1222-A1B17
8R150543C
CTI-TW (e3)</pre>
| <pre>2F
220
16H
</pre>
| T014 / T014
? / ?
| <pre>SE8117T33
1217-LF</pre>
|
* Ethernet: HanRun HR901110A 1225
|
|
| Farnell
| accumulator
|-
| BS1224
| Samsung <pre>222
K4P2G324ED-AGC1
GAA0519H</pre>
| SMSC
<pre>LAN9512-JZX
B1223-A1B17
8R15D81DA
CTI-TW (e3)</pre>
| <pre>2F
220
16H
</pre>
| 0000 / 0000
0 / 0
| <pre>SE8117T33
1220-LF</pre>
|
* Ethernet: HanRun HR901110A 1225
* No Issues
* Note: F1 and F2 are black 0 ohm resistors instead of green polyfuses
| [[File:RPi-BS1224-Front_Shuckle.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
|
| Farnell
| shuckle
|-
| BS1218
| Samsung<pre>216
K4P26324ED-AGC1
GAL0839R</pre>
| SMSC<pre>
LAN9512-JZX
B1215-A1B17
8R150188B
ASE-TW
(e3)</pre>
| <pre>2E
220
16H
</pre>
| F014
? / ?
| <pre>SE8117T33
1213-LF</pre>
|
* None
|
|
| Farnell
| d4lamar
|-
| BS1222
| Samsung <pre>225
K4P2G324ED-AGC1
GAC0289E</pre>
| SMSC
<pre>LAN9512-JZX
B1227-A1B17
8R1511968
CTI-TW (e3)</pre>
| <pre>2F
220
16H
</pre>
| 0000 / 0000
0 / 0
| <pre>SE8117T33
1217-LF</pre>
|
* Ethernet: HanRun HR901110A 1228
* Both boards by wcfields ordered at the same time/date.
* Note: F1 and F2 are black 0 ohm resistors instead of green polyfuses
|
|
| MCM
| wcfields
|-
| BS1232
| Samsung <pre>225
K4P2G324ED-AGC1
GAC0289H</pre>
| SMSC
<pre>LAN9512-JZX
B1227-A1B17
8R151261A
CTI-TW (e3)</pre>
| <pre>2F
220
16H
</pre>
| 0000 / 0000
0 / 0
| <pre>SE8117T33
1225-LF</pre>
|
* Ethernet: HanRun HR901110A 1228
* Both boards by wcfields ordered at the same time/date.
* Note: F1 and F2 are black 0 ohm resistors instead of green polyfuses
|
|
| MCM
| wcfields
|-
| BS1228
| Samsung <pre>234
K4P2G324ED-AGC1
GAK1229X</pre>
| SMSC
<pre>LAN9512-JZX
B1228-A1B17
8R151303B
CTI-TW (e3)</pre>
| <pre>2E
220
16H</pre>
| 0000 / 0000
? / ?
| <pre>SE8117T33
1220-LF</pre>
|
* Serious problems with the 4GB SDHC-Card ordered with the board on initial testing with Gentoo (corrupted FS)
* Same issues using rasbian and two different supported SD cards
* Using RS original power adapter
|
|
| RC
| FKlama
|-
}

RaspberryPi Boards

2012-10-13T08:52:18Z

Pinoccio: my F resistance

==Hardware versions/revisions==
Several different boards have been found probably from different assembly lines, and the following table tries to help you identify your board for better troubleshooting.
These differences are being debated on raspberrypi.org on this thread [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=9524&start=25]

For what we can see for model B boards there are mainly two versions that differ on the type RAM used, Samsung (S) and Hynix (H).

Note: For '''Board ver.''' we used: <model><RAM Maker><production date> (ex.: BS1218 is "Model B, Samsung RAM, 18th week of 2012")
Look for the date of manufacturing printed with the year and week (back side, board edge near LAN connector). In this example year (2012) and week (18th):[[File:Date_of_manufacturing.jpg|200px|thumb|right]]

'''Model A:'''
{| border="1" class="wikitable"
|-
! Board
ver.
! RAM
Chip
! USB
Chip
! C6
! F1 / F2
Ref. & Ohm
! RG2
! Reported issues / Feedback
! Front
! Back
! Seen from
! Owner
|-
| Ayxxxx
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|}

'''Model B:'''
{| border="1" class="wikitable"
|-
! Board
ver.
! RAM
Chip
! USB
Chip
! C6
! F1 / F2
Ref. & Ohm
! RG2
! Reported issues / Feedback
! Front
! Back
! Seen from
! Owner
|-
| BS1215
| Samsung
| SMSC
| <pre>220
16V
EEZ</pre>
| ?
? / ?
|
|
* None
|
|
| Farnell
| SN
|-
| BS1215
| Samsung
| SMSC
| <pre>n2
220
UD</pre>
| ?
? / ?
|
|
* None
|
|
| Farnell
| SN
|-
| BS1215
| Samsung <pre>216
K4P2G324ED-AGC1
GA30419V</pre>
| SMSC <pre>LAN9512-JZX
B1211-A1B17
BR149884A
CTI-TW</pre>
| <pre>n2
220C
UD</pre>
| 14
? / ?
| <pre>SE8117733
943-1F</pre>
|
* None
|
|
| Farnell
| AndrewS
|-
| BS1218
| Samsung<pre>216
K4P26324ED-AGC1
GAL0839V</pre>
| SMSC<pre>
LAN9512-JZX
B1212-A1B17
BR149884S</pre>
| <pre>220
16V
EE5</pre>
| T014
3.8 / 4.4
| <pre>SE8117T33
1213-LF</pre>
|
* None
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_A-Front.JPG|100px|thumb|center]]
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_A-Back.JPG|100px|thumb|center]]
| Farnell
| marcoalexcampos
|-
| BS1218
| Samsung<pre>216
K4P26324ED-AGC1
GAJ0419C</pre>
| SMSC<pre>
LAN9512-JZX
B1212-A1B17
BR149884S</pre>
| <pre>220
16V
EE5</pre>
| T014
5.8 / 3.9
| <pre>SE8117T33
1213-LF</pre>
|
* None
| [[File:Antijn_raspi_farnell_top.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| [[File:Antijn_raspi_farnell_bot.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| Farnell
| antijn
|-
| BS1218
| Samsung
| ?
| <pre></pre>
| ?
? / ?
|
|
* None
| [[File:RaspberryPi-BS1218-Front-JakeBlues.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| [[File:RaspberryPi-BS1218-Back-JakeBlues.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| Farnell
| JakeBlues
|-

| BH1208
| Hynix <pre>
H9TKNNN2GDMP
LANDM 149A
</pre>
| SMSC<pre>
LAN9512-JZX
B1134-A1B17
8R147769B
STA-SG
</pre>
| <pre>220
16V
EE2</pre>
| 14
| <pre>
SE8117T33
1001-LF</pre>
|
* No issues after getting a good power supply
* Note the SMSC is 8R149482C which I suspect is the same for the others.
* Ethernet: LU1S041ALF 1018M
| [[File:RaspberryPi-BS1208-Front-MarkBeckett.JPG|100px|thumb|center]]
| [[File:RaspberryPi-BS1208-Back-MarkBeckett.JPG|100px|thumb|center]]
| Farnell
| MarkBeckett
|-

| BH1219
| Hynix <pre>
H9TKNNN2GDMP
LANDM 218A
</pre>
| SMSC<pre>
LAN9512-JZX
B1206-A1B17
8R149471A
CTI-TW
</pre>
| <pre>220
16V
2E2</pre>
| T014
| <pre>
SE8117T33
1217-LF</pre>
|
* No issues
* Ethernet: HanRun HR901110A 1220
| [[File:RaspberryPI_1219_RS_Pi_1_MCB1.JPG|100px|thumb|center]]
| [[File:RaspberryPI_1219_RS_Pi_2_MCB1.JPG|100px|thumb|center]]
| RS
| MarkBeckett
|-
| BH1218
| Hynix <pre>H9TKNNN2GDMP
LRNOM 217A</pre>
| SMSC<pre>
LAN9512-JZX
B1215-A1B17
BR1501888</pre>
| <pre>2E
220
16H</pre>
| 14
6.4 / 5.0
| <pre>SE8117T33
1213-LF</pre>
|
* USB/Keyboard/LAN issues
| [[File:Antijn_raspi_RS_top.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| [[File:Antijn_raspi_RS_bot.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| RS
| antijn
|-
| BH1218
| Hynix <pre>
H9TKNNN2GDMP
LRNDM 217A</pre>
| SMSC<pre>
LAN9512-JZX
B1215-A1817
BR1494828</pre>
| <pre>2E
220
16H</pre>
| 14
6.1 / 5.6
| <pre>
SE8117T33
1213-LF</pre>
|
* "I haven't had any issues"[http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=9524&start=50]
* Ethernet HR901110A 1211
* E2112RSV1.0B1.1
|
|
| RS
| dukla2000
|-
| BS1219
| Samsung
| SMSC
| <pre>2E
220
16H
</pre>
| T014
? / ?
| <pre>SE8117T33
1213-LF</pre>
|
* None
| [[File:RaspberryPi-A1219-Front.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| [[File:RaspberryPi-A1219-Back.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| Farnell
| Troublesome
|-
| BH1208
| Hynix
| SMSC
| <pre>220
16V
EE2</pre>
| 14
? / ?
| ?
|
* None
| [[File:Raspberry-pi-top.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| [[File:Raspberry-pi-bottom.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| Farnell
| selsinork
|-
| BH1213
| Hynix
| SMSC
| <pre>n2
220c
UD</pre>
| 14
? / ?
| <blank>
|
* None
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_C-Front.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_C-Back.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| RS
|
|-
| BH1213
| Hynix
<pre>h9tknnn2c0mp
landm 1494</pre>
| SMSC
<pre>lan9512-jzx
b1134 a1b17 8r14
77698
sta-sg</pre>
| <pre>n2
220c
UD</pre>
| 14
? / ?
| <blank>
|
* "pretty stable"
| [[File:RaspberryPi-B1213-Front-RaTTuS.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| [[File:RaspberryPi-B1213-Back-RaTTuS.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| Farnell
| RaTTuS
|-
| BS12xx
| Samsung
<pre>216 k4p
26324ED
agc1</pre>
| SMSC
<pre>lan9512-jzx
b1212 a1b17
br149884b
cti-tw</pre>
| <pre>220
16V
EE5</pre>
| ?
? / ?
|
|
* OK "has not been stress tested yet"
|
|
| Farnell
| RaTTuS
|-
| BH1218
| Hynix
<pre>h9trnnn2g0mp
lrndm 217a</pre>
| SMSC
<pre>lan9512-jzy
b1215-a1b17
ase-tw</pre>
| <pre>2e
220
16h</pre>
| 14
? / ?
| <pre>Se8117t33
12-13 cf</pre>
|
* "stable good runner overclocked to 900mhz"
| [[File:RaspberryPi-B1218-Front-RaTTuS.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| [[File:RaspberryPi-B1218-Back-RaTTuS.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| RS
| RaTTuS
|-
| BH1218
| Hynix
| SMSC<pre>
LAN9512-JZX
B1215-A1B17
BR150188A
ASE-TW (e3)</pre>
| <pre>2E
220
16H</pre>
| 14
8.2 / 5.9
| <pre>SE8117T33
1213-LF</pre>
|
* USB/Keyboard/LAN power down[http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=109984#p109984]
*
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_B-Front.JPG|100px|thumb|center]]
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_B-Back.JPG|100px|thumb|center]]
| RS
| marcoalexcampos
|-
| BH1218
| Hynix
| SMSC
| <pre>2B
220
16H</pre>
| ?
6-7 / 6-7
|
|
* None
|
|
| RS
| SN
|-
| BH1218
| Hynix
| SMSC
| <pre>2B
220
16H</pre>
| ?
? / ?
|
|
* None
|
|
| RS
|
|-
| BH1218
| Hynix
| SMSC
| <pre>2E
220
16H</pre>
| F014
? / ?
| <pre>SE8117T33
1213-LF</pre>
|
* None
| [[File:RaspberryPi-B1218-Front.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| [[File:RaspberryPi-B1218-Back.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| RS
| Troublesome
|-
| BH1218
| Hynix <pre>H9TKNNN2GDMP
LANDM 217A</pre>
| SMSC
<pre>LAN9512-JZX
B1215-A1B17
BR150188B
ASE-TW (e3)</pre>
| <pre>2E
220
16H</pre>
| 14
6.9 / 5.9
| <pre>SE8117T33
1213-LF</pre>
|
* None
|[[File:RPi1T.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
|[[File:RPi1B.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| RS
| Mortimer
|-
| BH1218
| Hynix <pre>H9TKNNN2GDMP
LANDM 218A</pre>
| SMSC
<pre>LAN9512-JZX
B1215-A1B17
BR150188A
ASE-TW (e3)</pre>
| <pre>2E
220
16H</pre>
| 14
? / ?
| <pre>SE8117T33
1213-LF</pre>
|
* None
|[[File:RPi2T.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
|[[File:RPi2B.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| RS
| Mortimer
|-
| BH1218
| Hynix
<pre>
H9TKNNN2GDMP
LRNOM 217A
</pre>
| SMSC
<pre>
LAN9512-JZX
B1215-A1B17
8R150188B
ASE-TW (e3)
</pre>
| <pre>2E
22-
16H</pre>
| 14
? / ?
| <pre>SE8117T33
1213-LF</pre>
|
* D1 shorted when attaching a Neewer HDMI to VGA adapter. The adapter has had no other tests and the raspberry pi's HDMI output has not been connected to any other devices before or since.
| [[File:RaspberryPi-BH1218-Front-Tom1989.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| [[File:RaspberryPi-BH1218-Back-Tom1989.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| RS
| Tom1989
|-
| BH1208
| Hynix <pre>H9TKNNN2GDMP
LANDM 149A</pre>
| SMSC
<pre>LAN9512-JZX
B1134-A1B17
BR147769B
STA-SG</pre>
| <pre>220
16V
EE2</pre>
| ?
? / ?
| <pre>SE8117T33
1001-LF</pre>
|
* Stable, powers up off any charger. Powers off laptop USB without any issues
* Ethernet: LU1S041ALF 1018M
|
|
| Farnell
| Tass
|-
| BH1213
| Hynix <pre>H9TKNNN2GDMP
LANDM 149A</pre>
| SMSC
<pre>LAN9512-JZX
B1134-A1B17
BR147769B
STA-SG</pre>
| <pre>n2
220C
UD</pre>
| ?
? / ?
| <pre>SE8117T33
943-LF</pre>
|
* Stable, no power issues (not thouroughly tested)
* Ethernet: HR901110A 1211|
|
|
| RS
| Tass
|-
| BH1218
| Hynix <pre>H9TKNNN2GDMP
LANDM 217A</pre>
| SMSC
<pre>LAN9512-JZX
B1216-A1B17
8R149482C
ASE-TW (e3)</pre>
| <pre>2E
220
16H</pre>
| 14
14 / 5.1
| <pre>SE8117T33
1213-LF</pre>
|
* Up headless with Squeeze and Wheezy for ~six weeks, light duty, no problems
* Ethernet: HR901110A 1211
|[[File:Rpi001F.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
|[[File:Rpi001R.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| RS
| Davidm870
|-
| BS1218
| Samsung <pre>216
K42P2G324ED-AGG1
GAL0839T</pre>
| SMSC
<pre>LAN9512-JZX
B1212-A1B17
8R149885A
ASE-TW (e3)</pre>
| <pre>220
16V
EE5</pre>
| T014
T014 / ?
| <pre>SE8117T33
1213-LF</pre>
|
* Comes upp headless with Wheezy, not tested extensively
* Ethernet: HR901110A 1218
|[[File:Rpi002F.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
|[[File:Rpi002R.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| Farnell
| Davidm870
|-
| BS1219
| Samsung <pre>216
K4P2G324ED-AGC1
GAL0859V</pre>
| SMSC
<pre>LAN9512-JZX
B1216-A1B17
8R149482C
ASE-TW (e3)</pre>
| <pre>2E
220
16H
</pre>
| T014
2.9ohm / 3.0ohm
| <pre>SE8117T33
0941-LF</pre>
|
* First had problems (freezing, no LAN, etc.) due to low quality power supply - cheap ebay adaptor. Solved with own [[RPi_5V_PSU_construction| PSU construction]] with 7805 stabiliser adjusted to 5.25V.
* Now works OK with Raspbian “wheezy”, but not yet tested extensively.
* Ethernet: HR901110A 1220
* F3 0.3ohm
| [[File:RPi-BS1219-Front_Pinoccio.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| [[File:RPi-BS1219-Back_Pinoccio.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| Farnell
| Pinoccio
|-
| BS1219
| Samsung <pre>216
K4P2G324ED-AGC1
GAL0859D</pre>
| SMSC
<pre>LAN9512-JZX
B1216-A1B17
8R149482C
ASE-TW (e3)</pre>
| <pre>2E
220
16H
</pre>
| T014 / T014
? / ?
| <pre>SE8117T33
0941-LF</pre>
|
* No issues
* Ethernet: HanRun HR901110A 1220
* FN120659744
| [[File:RPi-BS1219-Front_slabua.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| [[File:RPi-BS1219-Back_slabua.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| Farnell
| [SLB] [http://twitter.com/slabua @slabua]
|-
| BH1222
| Hynix <pre>H9TKNNN2GDMP
LANDM 214A</pre>
| SMSC
<pre>LAN9512-JZX
B1215-A1B17
8R148168E
ASE-TW (e3)</pre>
| <pre>2E
220
16H
</pre>
| T014 / T014
? / ?
| <pre>SE8117T33
1217-LF</pre>
|
* No issues
* Ethernet: HanRun HR901110A 1225
* E2712RSV1.0B1.1
| [[File:RPi-BH1222-Front_slabua.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| [[File:RPi-BH1222-Back_slabua.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
| RS
| [SLB] [http://twitter.com/slabua @slabua]
|-
| BS1224
| Samsung <pre>222
K4P2G324ED-AGC1
GAA0419T</pre>
| SMSC
<pre>LAN9512-JZX
B1222-A1B17
8R150543C
CTI-TW (e3)</pre>
| <pre>2F
220
16H
</pre>
| T014 / T014
? / ?
| <pre>SE8117T33
1217-LF</pre>
|
* Ethernet: HanRun HR901110A 1225
|
|
| Farnell
| accumulator
|-
| BS1224
| Samsung <pre>222
K4P2G324ED-AGC1
GAA0519H</pre>
| SMSC
<pre>LAN9512-JZX
B1223-A1B17
8R15D81DA
CTI-TW (e3)</pre>
| <pre>2F
220
16H
</pre>
| 0000 / 0000
0 / 0
| <pre>SE8117T33
1220-LF</pre>
|
* Ethernet: HanRun HR901110A 1225
* No Issues
* Note: F1 and F2 are black 0 ohm resistors instead of green polyfuses
| [[File:RPi-BS1224-Front_Shuckle.jpg|100px|thumb|center]]
|
| Farnell
| shuckle
|-
| BS1218
| Samsung<pre>216
K4P26324ED-AGC1
GAL0839R</pre>
| SMSC<pre>
LAN9512-JZX
B1215-A1B17
8R150188B
ASE-TW
(e3)</pre>
| <pre>2E
220
16H
</pre>
| F014
? / ?
| <pre>SE8117T33
1213-LF</pre>
|
* None
|
|
| Farnell
| d4lamar
|-
| BS1222
| Samsung <pre>225
K4P2G324ED-AGC1
GAC0289E</pre>
| SMSC
<pre>LAN9512-JZX
B1227-A1B17
8R1511968
CTI-TW (e3)</pre>
| <pre>2F
220
16H
</pre>
| 0000 / 0000
0 / 0
| <pre>SE8117T33
1217-LF</pre>
|
* Ethernet: HanRun HR901110A 1228
* Both boards by wcfields ordered at the same time/date.
* Note: F1 and F2 are black 0 ohm resistors instead of green polyfuses
|
|
| MCM
| wcfields
|-
| BS1232
| Samsung <pre>225
K4P2G324ED-AGC1
GAC0289H</pre>
| SMSC
<pre>LAN9512-JZX
B1227-A1B17
8R151261A
CTI-TW (e3)</pre>
| <pre>2F
220
16H
</pre>
| 0000 / 0000
0 / 0
| <pre>SE8117T33
1225-LF</pre>
|
* Ethernet: HanRun HR901110A 1228
* Both boards by wcfields ordered at the same time/date.
* Note: F1 and F2 are black 0 ohm resistors instead of green polyfuses
|
|
| MCM
| wcfields
|-
| BS1228
| Samsung <pre>234
K4P2G324ED-AGC1
GAK1229X</pre>
| SMSC
<pre>LAN9512-JZX
B1228-A1B17
8R151303B
CTI-TW (e3)</pre>
| <pre>2E
220
16H</pre>
| 0000 / 0000
? / ?
| <pre>SE8117T33
1220-LF</pre>
|
* Serious problems with the 4GB SDHC-Card ordered with the board on initial testing with Gentoo (corrupted FS)
* Same issues using rasbian and two different supported SD cards
* Using RS original power adapter
|
|
| RC
| FKlama
|-
}

RPi 5V PSU construction

2012-10-08T14:52:25Z

Pinoccio: overvoltage protection circuit

[[Category: RaspberryPi]]
{{Template:RPi_Hardware}}

== A 5V power supply for the Raspberry Pi - Construction How To ==

Due to various problems with the power supply for the RaspberryPi, a home made PSU might be a solution for some of you.
You will need some experience with construction of electronic circuits, appropriate tools and a multimeter.

I have had problems with a cheap 5V/1A adapter from Ebay too (freezing, no LAN, etc.) ... The adapter could not provide enough power. It had 5.0xV unloaded, but with RaspberryPi connected I've measured 4.78V and less - dropping to 4.5V on TP1 and TP2 <ref>http://elinux.org/R-Pi_Troubleshooting#Troubleshooting_power_problems</ref>, and that's not good. The voltage drop might be partially caused by the cable, but I've used a branded Nokia cable that looks pretty solid. Anyway, we have to compensate for that too. Also there is some voltage drop on the polyfuse F3 (typically 0.1-0.2V, fuse should have about 0.2 Ohms <ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=19033</ref>), hence don't expect to get >=5.0V on TP1-TP2... 
<gallery>
File:ebay_cheap_5V_adaptor1.jpg|Cheap PSU
File:ebay_cheap_5V_adaptor2.jpg|Cheap PSU - inside
</gallery>

So instead of looking for another PSU (or cell phone charger), I decided to make my own PSU with the popular 7805 - 5V/1A regulator <ref>http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/What-is-a-LM7805-voltage-regulator</ref> <ref>http://www.circuitstune.com/2012/09/7805-voltage-regulator-circuit-7805-pinout.html</ref>. ''(There is also a 2A version available - 78'''S'''05)''

'''The basic idea is shown on this schematic:'''

[[File:PSU_7805_v01.jpg|none]]

The resistors R1 and R2 serve as adjustment of the output voltage (~ 5.25V). The formula is: ''V out = V fixed + { R2 [ (V fixed/R1) + I standby] }'', where ''V fixed=5V'' and ''I standby=2.5mA'' (for 7805). I calculated for resistors that I had at home, but for best results R1 should be about 470ohm to 1k. Remember that resistors have some tolerance, so results may vary slightly, always measure. Value of C3 is not critical, I recommend 100-470uF. Same for C4, where for every 1A drawn, use 1000uF of capacity (and add some reserve). Don't forget to put C1 and C2 as close as possible to the regulator. And a heatsink for the regulator is necessary too.

''I've used an old 9.5V/1500mA power supply from an printer as the source for this regulator, so no transformer and rectifier etc. was needed in my case. And it works just fine :)''

'''Here is a schematic of a complete PSU including all components:''' 
(a suggestion, with better filtering and protection)

[[File:PSU_7805_v02.jpg|none]]

Starting from left, we have a transformer (protected by a fuse - F1) supplying about 7-12V AC at 2A (use what you have at home or what is cheaper to buy). Next is a rectifier (or 4 diodes / >1A) with caps (C7-C10, for filtering). Now we should have approx. <AC voltage> x 1.41 - so if we have a 9V transformer, it will be about 12.69V. The 7805 needs at least 2V<ref>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/78xx</ref> (depending on type/manufacturer) more on the input than on the output (I prefer using a little more, >=3V to be sure) for stable regulation, and it can be up to 35V (but a big difference between input and output voltage means "a lot work" for the regulator and a lot heating). In this case, 8-9V DC measured after the rectifier would be optimal. Main filtering is ensured by C4 (use at least 1000uF for each 1A drawn), another filtering after the regulator is C3 (100-470uF). C1-C6 serve the 7805 for stable function and HF filtering. R1 and R2 adjust the voltage to 5.25V, as described before. D1 and D2 are for protection. A transil is used for over-voltage (peaks) protection on the output, a 5V8 type should be fine (5.8V reverse standoff voltage and approx. 6.2V breakdown voltage) - use P6KE6.8A or BZW06-5V8. For operation signaling (device on) a LED coupled with R3 is used. You may use another fuse on the output - F2.

This is a rather fancy circuit, you may simplify it if you like - by leaving out C7-C10, C5, C6, D1, D2, LED and R3, F2 (and the transil, if you don't want any protection). Or leave just some of them. Your choice ;)

'''Also if you prefer to fine-tune the output voltage, you may replace R2 with a small pot (trimmer) as shown here:'''

[[File:PSU_7805_v03.jpg|none]]

With this values (R1=1k, R2=100) adjustment from 5V to approx. 5.75V is possible.

=== Resources on 7805 ===
For more info about the 7805 regulator, [http://www.google.com/search?q=7805+datasheet google the datasheet] and see the following resources.

Resource links: 
[http://www.rason.org/Projects/regulator/regulator.htm The Adjustable Voltage Regulator], 
[http://www.circuitstoday.com/variable-power-supply-using-7805 Variable power supply using 7805], 
or [http://www.google.com/search?q=7805+regulator google more]

=== The testing prototype ===
This is my testing prototype of this PSU, based on the first schematic. It's made of "what was found in the drawer". I've used an old 7805 regulator in TO3 package <ref>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TO-3</ref>, C3 was taken from some broken mainboard, C4 is left out (it's not necessary, because the circuit is powered by a stable power supply from some old printer). The PSU provides stable 5.25V and i have 4.82V on TP1-TP2. My RaspberryPi works OK now :) 
<gallery>
File:RPi_5V_PSU_proto1_Pinoccio.jpg|5V PSU prototype
File:RPi_5V_PSU_proto2_Pinoccio.jpg|5V PSU prototype
File:RPi_5V_PSU_proto3_Pinoccio.jpg|5V PSU prototype
File:RPi_5V_PSU_proto4_Pinoccio.jpg|5V PSU prototype
</gallery>
I will make another PSU (for permanent operation) later - new 7805 in TO-220 package <ref>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TO-220</ref>, appropriate heatsink, 1k resistor for R1 and a small pot for R2, new "fresh" caps and a transil, usb connector on PCB ... and I'll put it in some case.

~#Pinoccio

== Other PSU options ==

Simple switched PSU ''(with LM2576)'': [http://www.themagpi.com The MagPi - Issue 6] - page 8+9, 
And more info on LM2576 <ref>http://www.ti.com/product/lm2576</ref> : [http://www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/lm2576-step-down-switching-regulator.php link], [http://wiringschematic.net/lm2576-switching-regulator/ link], [http://www.siongboon.com/projects/2005-08-07_lm2576_dc-dc_converter/ link]

== Mobile battery power supply options ==

A Battery Elminator Circuit (BEC) should be able provide a solid 5V output at upto 3A which will be plenty to handle the load on a normal RPi

Something like http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__15212__HobbyKing_Micro_UBEC_3A_5v.html
Connect this BEC to a 3S LiPo 5000mAh batter and you should get 15 hours of run time off one full charge.
You could also connect it directly to a 12v car battery for even longer run time.

== Over-voltage protection ==
Here is a nice upgrade for your PSU - a over-voltage protection circuit ''(see [http://blog.3b2.sk/igi/post/Tipy-a-triky-011-Prepatova-ochrana-Voltage-protect-Tips-tricks.aspx original post] in Slovak language)''. It can protect your device (RPi) from unwanted damage by high voltage from a faulty/malfunctioning PSU. In such case, it will short-circuit and burn it's fuse immediately.

[[File:5v_overvoltage_protection.jpg|none]]

Steps:
* choose appropriate fuse (according to expected load): 1-1.5A (fast type)
* first don't put the fuse in it's holder - you have to initially adjust the circuit, so use a piece of wire (or you can use a lower-current fuse too if you don't mind spending/burning it during the adjustment process)
* set the 2k2 pot (trimmer) to it's max. value
* connect protection circuit to a power supply (if available a stabilized lab-PSU is preferred), set to 5.25V output (max. for USB; or exact 5V if you want) and 1-1.5A current limit
* now slowly turn the 2k2 pot until the PSU's current-limiter goes on (or the fuse burns - if you chose that option)
* well done, disconnect, now replace wire with your fuse and you're good to go

== References ==
<references/>

{{Template:Raspberry Pi}}

File:5v overvoltage protection.jpg

2012-10-08T14:46:22Z

Pinoccio: 5V over-voltage protection circuit

5V over-voltage protection circuit

RPi 5V PSU construction

2012-10-05T12:46:55Z

Pinoccio: references, header/footer update

[[Category: RaspberryPi]]
{{Template:RPi_Hardware}}

== A 5V power supply for the Raspberry Pi - Construction How To ==

Due to various problems with the power supply for the RaspberryPi, a home made PSU might be a solution for some of you.
You will need some experience with construction of electronic circuits, appropriate tools and a multimeter.

I have had problems with a cheap 5V/1A adapter from Ebay too (freezing, no LAN, etc.) ... The adapter could not provide enough power. It had 5.0xV unloaded, but with RaspberryPi connected I've measured 4.78V and less - dropping to 4.5V on TP1 and TP2 <ref>http://elinux.org/R-Pi_Troubleshooting#Troubleshooting_power_problems</ref>, and that's not good. The voltage drop might be partially caused by the cable, but I've used a branded Nokia cable that looks pretty solid. Anyway, we have to compensate for that too. Also there is some voltage drop on the polyfuse F3 (typically 0.1-0.2V, fuse should have about 0.2 Ohms <ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=19033</ref>), hence don't expect to get >=5.0V on TP1-TP2... 
<gallery>
File:ebay_cheap_5V_adaptor1.jpg|Cheap PSU
File:ebay_cheap_5V_adaptor2.jpg|Cheap PSU - inside
</gallery>

So instead of looking for another PSU (or cell phone charger), I decided to make my own PSU with the popular 7805 - 5V/1A regulator <ref>http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/What-is-a-LM7805-voltage-regulator</ref> <ref>http://www.circuitstune.com/2012/09/7805-voltage-regulator-circuit-7805-pinout.html</ref>. ''(There is also a 2A version available - 78'''S'''05)''

'''The basic idea is shown on this schematic:'''

[[File:PSU_7805_v01.jpg|none]]

The resistors R1 and R2 serve as adjustment of the output voltage (~ 5.25V). The formula is: ''V out = V fixed + { R2 [ (V fixed/R1) + I standby] }'', where ''V fixed=5V'' and ''I standby=2.5mA'' (for 7805). I calculated for resistors that I had at home, but for best results R1 should be about 470ohm to 1k. Remember that resistors have some tolerance, so results may vary slightly, always measure. Value of C3 is not critical, I recommend 100-470uF. Same for C4, where for every 1A drawn, use 1000uF of capacity (and add some reserve). Don't forget to put C1 and C2 as close as possible to the regulator. And a heatsink for the regulator is necessary too.

''I've used an old 9.5V/1500mA power supply from an printer as the source for this regulator, so no transformer and rectifier etc. was needed in my case. And it works just fine :)''

'''Here is a schematic of a complete PSU including all components:''' 
(a suggestion, with better filtering and protection)

[[File:PSU_7805_v02.jpg|none]]

Starting from left, we have a transformer (protected by a fuse - F1) supplying about 7-12V AC at 2A (use what you have at home or what is cheaper to buy). Next is a rectifier (or 4 diodes / >1A) with caps (C7-C10, for filtering). Now we should have approx. <AC voltage> x 1.41 - so if we have a 9V transformer, it will be about 12.69V. The 7805 needs at least 2V<ref>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/78xx</ref> (depending on type/manufacturer) more on the input than on the output (I prefer using a little more, >=3V to be sure) for stable regulation, and it can be up to 35V (but a big difference between input and output voltage means "a lot work" for the regulator and a lot heating). In this case, 8-9V DC measured after the rectifier would be optimal. Main filtering is ensured by C4 (use at least 1000uF for each 1A drawn), another filtering after the regulator is C3 (100-470uF). C1-C6 serve the 7805 for stable function and HF filtering. R1 and R2 adjust the voltage to 5.25V, as described before. D1 and D2 are for protection. A transil is used for over-voltage (peaks) protection on the output, a 5V8 type should be fine (5.8V reverse standoff voltage and approx. 6.2V breakdown voltage) - use P6KE6.8A or BZW06-5V8. For operation signaling (device on) a LED coupled with R3 is used. You may use another fuse on the output - F2.

This is a rather fancy circuit, you may simplify it if you like - by leaving out C7-C10, C5, C6, D1, D2, LED and R3, F2 (and the transil, if you don't want any protection). Or leave just some of them. Your choice ;)

'''Also if you prefer to fine-tune the output voltage, you may replace R2 with a small pot (trimmer) as shown here:'''

[[File:PSU_7805_v03.jpg|none]]

With this values (R1=1k, R2=100) adjustment from 5V to approx. 5.75V is possible.

=== Resources on 7805 ===
For more info about the 7805 regulator, [http://www.google.com/search?q=7805+datasheet google the datasheet] and see the following resources.

Resource links: 
[http://www.rason.org/Projects/regulator/regulator.htm The Adjustable Voltage Regulator], 
[http://www.circuitstoday.com/variable-power-supply-using-7805 Variable power supply using 7805], 
or [http://www.google.com/search?q=7805+regulator google more]

=== The testing prototype ===
This is my testing prototype of this PSU, based on the first schematic. It's made of "what was found in the drawer". I've used an old 7805 regulator in TO3 package <ref>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TO-3</ref>, C3 was taken from some broken mainboard, C4 is left out (it's not necessary, because the circuit is powered by a stable power supply from some old printer). The PSU provides stable 5.25V and i have 4.82V on TP1-TP2. My RaspberryPi works OK now :) 
<gallery>
File:RPi_5V_PSU_proto1_Pinoccio.jpg|5V PSU prototype
File:RPi_5V_PSU_proto2_Pinoccio.jpg|5V PSU prototype
File:RPi_5V_PSU_proto3_Pinoccio.jpg|5V PSU prototype
File:RPi_5V_PSU_proto4_Pinoccio.jpg|5V PSU prototype
</gallery>
I will make another PSU (for permanent operation) later - new 7805 in TO-220 package <ref>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TO-220</ref>, appropriate heatsink, 1k resistor for R1 and a small pot for R2, new "fresh" caps and a transil, usb connector on PCB ... and I'll put it in some case.

~#Pinoccio

== Other PSU options ==

Simple switched PSU ''(with LM2576)'': [http://www.themagpi.com The MagPi - Issue 6] - page 8+9, 
And more info on LM2576 <ref>http://www.ti.com/product/lm2576</ref> : [http://www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/lm2576-step-down-switching-regulator.php link], [http://wiringschematic.net/lm2576-switching-regulator/ link], [http://www.siongboon.com/projects/2005-08-07_lm2576_dc-dc_converter/ link]

== Mobile battery power supply options ==

A Battery Elminator Circuit (BEC) should be able provide a solid 5V output at upto 3A which will be plenty to handle the load on a normal RPi

Something like http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__15212__HobbyKing_Micro_UBEC_3A_5v.html
Connect this BEC to a 3S LiPo 5000mAh batter and you should get 15 hours of run time off one full charge.
You could also connect it directly to a 12v car battery for even longer run time.

== References ==
<references/>

{{Template:Raspberry Pi}}

RPi 5V PSU construction

2012-10-05T09:53:24Z

Pinoccio: minor footer update

Back to the [[R-Pi Hub|Hub]].
[[Category:RaspberryPi]]

== A 5V power supply for the Raspberry Pi - Construction How To ==

Due to various problems with the power supply for the RaspberryPi, a home made PSU might be a solution for some of you.
You will need some experience with construction of electronic circuits, appropriate tools and a multimeter.

I have had problems with a cheap 5V/1A adapter from Ebay too (freezing, no LAN, etc.) ... The adapter could not provide enough power. It had 5.0xV unloaded, but with RaspberryPi connected I've measured 4.78V and less - dropping to 4.5V on TP1 and TP2, and that's not good. The voltage drop might be partially caused by the cable, but I've used a branded Nokia cable that looks pretty solid. Anyway, we have to compensate for that too. Also there is some voltage drop on the polyfuse F3, hence don't expect to get >=5.0V on TP1-TP2... 
<gallery>
File:ebay_cheap_5V_adaptor1.jpg|Cheap PSU
File:ebay_cheap_5V_adaptor2.jpg|Cheap PSU - inside
</gallery>

So instead of looking for another PSU (or cell phone charger), I decided to make my own PSU with the popular 7805 - 5V/1A regulator.

'''The basic idea is shown on this schematic:'''

[[File:PSU_7805_v01.jpg|none]]

The resistors R1 and R2 serve as adjustment of the output voltage (~ 5.25V). The formula is: ''V out = V fixed + { R2 [ (V fixed/R1) + I standby] }'', where ''V fixed=5V'' and ''I standby=2.5mA'' (for 7805). I calculated for resistors that I had at home, but for best results R1 should be about 470ohm to 1k. Remember that resistors have some tolerance, so results may vary slightly, always measure. Value of C3 is not critical, I recommend 100-470uF. Same for C4, where for every 1A drawn, use 1000uF of capacity (and add some reserve). Don't forget to put C1 and C2 as close as possible to the regulator. And a heatsink for the regulator is necessary too.

''I've used an old 9.5V/1500mA power supply from an printer as the source for this regulator, so no transformer and rectifier etc. was needed in my case. And it works just fine :)''

'''Here is a schematic of a complete PSU including all components:''' 
(a suggestion, with better filtering and protection)

[[File:PSU_7805_v02.jpg|none]]

Starting from left, we have a transformer (protected by a fuse - F1) supplying about 7-12V AC at 2A (use what you have at home or what is cheaper to buy). Next is a rectifier (or 4 diodes / >1A) with caps (C7-C10, for filtering). Now we should have approx. <AC voltage> x 1.41 - so if we have a 9V transformer, it will be about 12.69V. The 7805 needs at least 2V (depending on type/manufacturer) more on the input than on the output (I prefer using a little more, >3V to be sure) for stable regulation, and it can be up to 35V (but a big difference between input and output voltage means "a lot work" for the regulator and a lot heating). In this case, 8-9V DC measured after the rectifier would be optimal. Main filtering is ensured by C4 (use at least 1000uF for each 1A drawn), another filtering after the regulator is C3 (100-470uF). C1-C6 serve the 7805 for stable function and HF filtering. R1 and R2 adjust the voltage to 5.25V, as described before. D1 and D2 are for protection. A transil is used for over-voltage (peaks) protection on the output, a 5V8 type should be fine (5.8V reverse standoff voltage and approx. 6.2V breakdown voltage) - use P6KE6.8A or BZW06-5V8. For operation signaling (device on) a LED coupled with R3 is used. You may use another fuse on the output - F2.

This is a rather fancy circuit, you may simplify it if you like - by leaving out C7-C10, C5, C6, D1, D2, LED and R3, F2 (and the transil, if you don't want any protection). Or leave just some of them. Your choice ;)

'''Also if you prefer to fine-tune the output voltage, you may replace R2 with a small pot (trimmer) as shown here:'''

[[File:PSU_7805_v03.jpg|none]]

With this values (R1=1k, R2=100) adjustment from 5V to approx. 5.75V is possible.

=== Resources on 7805 ===
For more info about the 7805 regulator, [http://www.google.com/search?q=7805+datasheet google the datasheet] and see the following resources.

Resource links: 
[http://www.rason.org/Projects/regulator/regulator.htm The Adjustable Voltage Regulator], 
[http://www.circuitstoday.com/variable-power-supply-using-7805 Variable power supply using 7805], 
or [http://www.google.com/search?q=7805+regulator google more]

=== The testing prototype ===
This is my testing prototype of this PSU, based on the first schematic. It's made of "what was found in the drawer". I've used an old 7805 regulator in TO3 package, C3 was taken from some broken mainboard, C4 is left out (it's not necessary, because the circuit is powered by a stable power supply from some old printer). The PSU provides stable 5.25V and i have 4.82V on TP1-TP2. My RaspberryPi works OK now :) 
<gallery>
File:RPi_5V_PSU_proto1_Pinoccio.jpg|5V PSU prototype
File:RPi_5V_PSU_proto2_Pinoccio.jpg|5V PSU prototype
File:RPi_5V_PSU_proto3_Pinoccio.jpg|5V PSU prototype
File:RPi_5V_PSU_proto4_Pinoccio.jpg|5V PSU prototype
</gallery>
I will make another PSU (for permanent operation) later - new 7805 in TO-220 package, appropriate heatsink, 1k resistor for R1 and a small pot for R2, new "fresh" caps and a transil, usb connector on PCB ... and I'll put it in some case.

~#Pinoccio

== Other PSU options ==

Simple switched PSU ''(with LM2576)'': [http://www.themagpi.com The MagPi - Issue 6] - page 8+9, 
And more info on LM2576: [http://www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/lm2576-step-down-switching-regulator.php link], [http://wiringschematic.net/lm2576-switching-regulator/ link], [http://www.siongboon.com/projects/2005-08-07_lm2576_dc-dc_converter/ link]

== Mobile battery power supply options ==

A Battery Elminator Circuit (BEC) should be able provide a solid 5V output at upto 3A which will be plenty to handle the load on a normal RPi

Something like http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__15212__HobbyKing_Micro_UBEC_3A_5v.html
Connect this BEC to a 3S LiPo 5000mAh batter and you should get 15 hours of run time off one full charge.
You could also connect it directly to a 12v car battery for even longer run time.

----
Back to the [[R-Pi Hub|Hub]].

'''Hardware & Peripherals:'''

''[[RPi Hardware|Hardware]] and [[RPi HardwareHistory|Hardware History]].''

''[[RPi Low-level peripherals|Low-level Peripherals]] and [[RPi Expansion Boards|Expansion Boards]].''

''[[RPi Screens|Screens]], [[RPi Cases|Cases]] and [[RPi VerifiedPeripherals|Other Peripherals]].''
{{clear}}

RPi 5V PSU construction

2012-10-05T00:13:49Z

Pinoccio: other PSU options - switched PSU

RPi 5V PSU construction

2012-08-09T09:55:52Z

Pinoccio: chapters reorganized

Back to the [[R-Pi Hub|Hub]].
[[Category:RaspberryPi]]

== A 5V power supply for the Raspberry Pi - Construction How To ==

Due to various problems with the power supply for the RaspberryPi, a home made PSU might be a solution for some of you.
You will need some experience with construction of electronic circuits, appropriate tools and a multimeter.

I have had problems with a cheap 5V/1A adapter from Ebay too (freezing, no LAN, etc.) ... The adapter could not provide enough power. It had 5.0xV unloaded, but with RaspberryPi connected I've measured 4.78V and less - dropping to 4.5V on TP1 and TP2, and that's not good. The voltage drop might be partially caused by the cable, but I've used a branded Nokia cable that looks pretty solid. Anyway, we have to compensate for that too. Also there is some voltage drop on the polyfuse F3, hence don't expect to get >=5.0V on TP1-TP2... 
<gallery>
File:ebay_cheap_5V_adaptor1.jpg|Cheap PSU
File:ebay_cheap_5V_adaptor2.jpg|Cheap PSU - inside
</gallery>

So instead of looking for another PSU (or cell phone charger), I decided to make my own PSU with the popular 7805 - 5V/1A regulator.

'''The basic idea is shown on this schematic:'''

[[File:PSU_7805_v01.jpg|none]]

The resistors R1 and R2 serve as adjustment of the output voltage (~ 5.25V). The formula is: ''V out = V fixed + { R2 [ (V fixed/R1) + I standby] }'', where ''V fixed=5V'' and ''I standby=2.5mA'' (for 7805). I calculated for resistors that I had at home, but for best results R1 should be about 470ohm to 1k. Remember that resistors have some tolerance, so results may vary slightly, always measure. Value of C3 is not critical, I recommend 100-470uF. Same for C4, where for every 1A drawn, use 1000uF of capacity (and add some reserve). Don't forget to put C1 and C2 as close as possible to the regulator. And a heatsink for the regulator is necessary too.

''I've used an old 9.5V/1500mA power supply from an printer as the source for this regulator, so no transformer and rectifier etc. was needed in my case. And it works just fine :)''

'''Here is a schematic of a complete PSU including all components:''' 
(a suggestion, with better filtering and protection)

[[File:PSU_7805_v02.jpg|none]]

Starting from left, we have a transformer (protected by a fuse - F1) supplying about 7-12V AC at 2A (use what you have at home or what is cheaper to buy). Next is a rectifier (or 4 diodes / >1A) with caps (C7-C10, for filtering). Now we should have approx. <AC voltage> x 1.41 - so if we have a 9V transformer, it will be about 12.69V. The 7805 needs at least 2V (depending on type/manufacturer) more on the input than on the output (I prefer using a little more, >3V to be sure) for stable regulation, and it can be up to 35V (but a big difference between input and output voltage means "a lot work" for the regulator and a lot heating). In this case, 8-9V DC measured after the rectifier would be optimal. Main filtering is ensured by C4 (use at least 1000uF for each 1A drawn), another filtering after the regulator is C3 (100-470uF). C1-C6 serve the 7805 for stable function and HF filtering. R1 and R2 adjust the voltage to 5.25V, as described before. D1 and D2 are for protection. A transil is used for over-voltage (peaks) protection on the output, a 5V8 type should be fine (5.8V reverse standoff voltage and approx. 6.2V breakdown voltage) - use P6KE6.8A or BZW06-5V8. For operation signaling (device on) a LED coupled with R3 is used. You may use another fuse on the output - F2.

This is a rather fancy circuit, you may simplify it if you like - by leaving out C7-C10, C5, C6, D1, D2, LED and R3, F2 (and the transil, if you don't want any protection). Or leave just some of them. Your choice ;)

'''Also if you prefer to fine-tune the output voltage, you may replace R2 with a small pot (trimmer) as shown here:'''

[[File:PSU_7805_v03.jpg|none]]

With this values (R1=1k, R2=100) adjustment from 5V to approx. 5.75V is possible.

=== Resources on 7805 ===
For more info about the 7805 regulator, [http://www.google.com/search?q=7805+datasheet google the datasheet] and see the following resources.

Resource links: 
[http://www.rason.org/Projects/regulator/regulator.htm The Adjustable Voltage Regulator], 
[http://www.circuitstoday.com/variable-power-supply-using-7805 Variable power supply using 7805], 
or [http://www.google.com/search?q=7805+regulator google more]

=== The testing prototype ===
This is my testing prototype of this PSU, based on the first schematic. It's made of "what was found in the drawer". I've used an old 7805 regulator in TO3 package, C3 was taken from some broken mainboard, C4 is left out (it's not necessary, because the circuit is powered by a stable power supply from some old printer). The PSU provides stable 5.25V and i have 4.82V on TP1-TP2. My RaspberryPi works OK now :) 
<gallery>
File:RPi_5V_PSU_proto1_Pinoccio.jpg|5V PSU prototype
File:RPi_5V_PSU_proto2_Pinoccio.jpg|5V PSU prototype
File:RPi_5V_PSU_proto3_Pinoccio.jpg|5V PSU prototype
File:RPi_5V_PSU_proto4_Pinoccio.jpg|5V PSU prototype
</gallery>
I will make another PSU (for permanent operation) later - new 7805 in TO-220 package, appropriate heatsink, 1k resistor for R1 and a small pot for R2, new "fresh" caps and a transil, usb connector on PCB ... and I'll put it in some case.

~#Pinoccio

== Mobile battery power supply options ==

A Battery Elminator Circuit (BEC) should be able provide a solid 5V output at upto 3A which will be plenty to handle the load on a normal RPi

Something like http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__15212__HobbyKing_Micro_UBEC_3A_5v.html
Connect this BEC to a 3S LiPo 5000mAh batter and you should get 15 hours of run time off one full charge.
You could also connect it directly to a 12v car battery for even longer run time.

----
Back to the [[R-Pi Hub|Hub]].

User talk:Pinoccio

2012-08-09T09:48:51Z

Pinoccio: reply

Does 7805 need additional components, those adj resistors? I thinks it's factory adjusted to output 5V and needs only capacitors.

>> Well, it's not necessary ...but if you read the guide properly, you'll find that it's there to get a slightly higher voltage - 5.25V ;)

RPi Tutorials

2012-08-01T10:19:57Z

Pinoccio: Link to a new tutorial - 5V PSU

{{Template:RPi_Learning}}

==Introduction==
This page contains a set of tutorials to help the reader to learn by doing. The reader is encouraged to follow the steps in the tutorials.

The Raspberry Pi Forum has a list of [http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/projects-and-collaboration-general/the-projects-list-look-here-for-some-ideas Project Ideas & Links], to help people get started.

Please add links to your tutorials (and ones you find interesting).

Fill in each section:
* Tutorial Title (as a link to the project webpage or connected wiki page)
* Tutorial Description (including any additional links or information
* Skill level/Ages it is aimed at (Any/Beginner/Intermediate/Advanced)
* Tags (key words related to the project, i.e. LCD Screen, Teaching, Python)
* Author(s) or group who have produced it (also if it is an Open/Community Project for anyone to contribute)
* Tutorial Status (Not Started/In-Progress/Available).

==Tutorials List==
{| border="1" style="background:transparent;"
| style="width:15%; vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
'''Tutorial Title and Link'''
| style="width:40%; vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
'''Description'''
| style="width:7%; vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
'''Level'''
| style="width:7%; vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
'''Tags'''
| style="width:10%; vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
'''Author'''
| style="width:7%; vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
'''Status'''
|-
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
===[http://log.liminastudio.com/writing/tutorials/tutorial-how-to-use-your-raspberry-pi-like-an-arduino Tutorial: How to use your RPi like an Arduino]===
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
A thorough guide to using the RPi's GPIO pins in Python, Bash and C.
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Intermediate
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Teaching, Python, Bash, C
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
T3db0t
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Available
|-
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
===[http://www.youtube.com/user/RaspberryPiTutorials Raspberry Pi YouTube Tutorials]===
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Forum Link: [http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/educational-applications/video-tutorials Liam Fraser's Video Tutorials]
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Beginner
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Teaching, Python
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Liam Fraser
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Available
|-
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
===[http://h2g2.com/dna/h2g2/brunel/A13735596 Introducing the Raspberry Pi]===
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
h2g2 project: [http://h2g2.com/dna/h2g2/brunel/A13735596 Introducing the Raspberry Pi]
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Beginner
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Startup guide
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Tufty
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Available
|-

| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
===[http://log.liminastudio.com/writing/tutorials/getting-started-with-the-raspberry-pi Getting Started with the Raspberry Pi]===
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Introductory tutorial for total beginners to get your Raspberry Pi booted and online : [http://log.liminastudio.com/writing/tutorials/getting-started-with-the-raspberry-pi Getting Started with the Raspberry Pi]
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Beginner
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Startup guide
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
T3db0t
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Available
|-

| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
===[http://codingclub.cuteseal.co.uk/index.php The Coding Club Free eBook(s)]===
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Forum Link: [http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/educational-applications/teaching-youngsters-programming Teaching Youngsters Programming]
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Beginner (~ages 10)
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Teaching, Python
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Sciman
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Available
|-
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
===[http://dracosoftware.blogspot.com/ DracoSoftware ]===
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Forum Link: [http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/projects-and-collaboration-general/blog-about-working-with-raspberry-pi-for-windows-users Blog about working with Raspberry Pi for Windows users]
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Beginner
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Teaching, Windows, Linux
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
dracolytch
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Available
|-
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
===[[RPi Tutorial Easy GPIO Hardware & Software | Easy GPIO Hardware & Software]]===
(Wiki)
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Forum Link: [http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/features-and-requests/easy-gpio-hardware-software Easy GPIO Hardware & Software]

Aim to introduce the basic circuits for interfacing through the GPIO.
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Beginner
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Teaching, Basic Hardware
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
[[User:Meltwater | Meltwater]] - Open Project
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
In-Progress
|-
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
===[http://myraspberrypiexperience.blogspot.co.uk/2012/03/using-dd-for-windows.html SD Card setup using DD for Windows]===
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Blog Link: [http://myraspberrypiexperience.blogspot.co.uk/2012/03/using-dd-for-windows.html My Raspberry Pi Experience]

How to set up an SD Card using DD for Windows - with step by step screenshots
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Linux Beginner/
Windows Intermediate
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Startup Guide, OS setup
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Tass
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Available

|-
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
===[[RPi VICE C64 Emulator | Software: C64 Emulator (VICE)]]===
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Forum Link: [http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/projects-and-collaboration-general/c64-emulator How to install the C64 Emulator VICE]
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Linux Beginner
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Install Guide, Software, Emulator
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Frank Buss
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Available

|-
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
===[http://myraspberrypiexperience.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/setting-up-vnc.html Setting up VNC]===
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Blog Link: [http://myraspberrypiexperience.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/setting-up-vnc.html My Raspberry Pi Experience]

How to set up VNC server on the Raspberry Pi to be able to connect remotely - with step by step screenshots
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Beginner
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Startup Guide, OS setup
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Tass
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Available

|-
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
===[http://fusionstrike.com/2012/installing-apache2-raspberry-pi-debian Setting up Apache2]===
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Blog Link: [http://fusionstrike.com/2012/installing-apache2-raspberry-pi-debian Fusion Strike]

A guide on setting up an Apache2 web server with Screenshots
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Beginner
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Startup Guide, server setup
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Jacob Clark
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Available

|-
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
===[http://fusionstrike.com/2012/setting-php-raspberry-pi-debian Setting up PHP]===
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Blog Link: [http://fusionstrike.com/2012/setting-php-raspberry-pi-debian Fusion Strike]

A guide on setting up PHP web server with using Apache & SSH with Screenshots
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Beginner
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Startup Guide, server setup
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Jacob Clark
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Available

|-
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
===[http://fusionstrike.com/2012/setting-mysql-raspberry-pi-debian Setting up MySQL]===
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Blog Link: [http://fusionstrike.com/2012/setting-mysql-raspberry-pi-debian Fusion Strike]

A guide on setting up MySQL on your Raspberry Pi web server using PHP, Apache & SSH with Screenshots
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Beginner
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Startup Guide, server setup
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Jacob Clark
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Available

|-
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
===[http://log.liminastudio.com/programming/running-puredata-on-the-raspberry-pi Running Puredata on the Raspberry Pi]===
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
How to get Puredata, the open-source sound synthesis platform, running on your R-Pi : [http://log.liminastudio.com/programming/running-puredata-on-the-raspberry-pi Running Puredata on the Raspberry Pi]
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Beginner
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Startup guide
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
T3db0t
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Available

|-
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
===[http://raspi.tv/2012/mount-a-usb-flash-drive-on-raspberry-pi How to mount a USB flash drive on the Raspberry Pi]===
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Blog link: [http://raspi.tv/2012/mount-a-usb-flash-drive-on-raspberry-pi How to mount a USB flash drive on the Raspberry Pi]
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Beginner
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Startup guide, Linux
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Alex Eames
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Available

|-
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |

===[http://raspi.tv/2012/how-to-mount-and-use-a-usb-hard-disk-with-the-raspberry-pi How to mount and use a USB Hard Disk Drive on the Raspberry Pi]===
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Blog link: [http://raspi.tv/2012/how-to-mount-and-use-a-usb-hard-disk-with-the-raspberry-pi How to mount a USB hard disk drive on the Raspberry Pi]
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Beginner
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Startup guide, Linux
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Alex Eames
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Available

|-
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |

===[http://pihub.blogspot.co.uk/2012/06/raspberry-pi-power-supply-and-powered.html How to build a cheap powered USB hub]===
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Blog link: [http://pihub.blogspot.co.uk/2012/06/raspberry-pi-power-supply-and-powered.html How to build a cheap powered USB hub]

How to adapt a cheap unpowered USB hub and an existing mains adaptor to build a Raspberry Pi power supply and powered USB hub in one.
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Intermediate
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Hardware, USB hub
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Alan Thew
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Available

|-
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |

===[[RPi_5V_PSU_construction| 5V Power Supply construction - How To]]===
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
How to make a simple PSU for your Raspberry Pi - design and construction from scratch. Some experience with construction of electronic circuits is required.
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Intermediate
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Hardware, PSU
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Pinoccio
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Available

|-
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |

===[http://chrisbaume.wordpress.com/2012/06/24/raspberry-pi-upnp-media-player/ Raspberry Pi UPnP Media Player]===
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Blog link: [http://chrisbaume.wordpress.com/2012/06/24/raspberry-pi-upnp-media-player/ Raspberry Pi UPnP Media Player]

A guide on using GMediaRender to set up a Raspberry Pi as a UPnP media renderer.
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Beginner
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Startup guide, Linux
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Chris Baume
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Available

|-
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |

===[http://linuxtortures.blogspot.fr/2012/06/cross-compiling-and-cross-debugging-c.html Cross Compiling and Cross Debugging C++ with Eclipse from Debian Squeeze x64 to Debian Squeeze ARM (Raspberry Pi)]===
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Blog link: [http://linuxtortures.blogspot.fr/2012/06/cross-compiling-and-cross-debugging-c.html Cross Compiling and Cross Debugging C++ with Eclipse from Debian Squeeze x64 to Debian Squeeze ARM (Raspberry Pi)]

A guide on Cross-Compilation and Cross-Debugging C++ with Eclipse CDT.
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Intermediate
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Teaching, C++
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Javier Bravo
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Available

|-
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |

===[http://pi.gadgetoid.co.uk/post/001-who-watches-the-watcher Setting up the Broadcom watchdog to reboot a hung Pi (Raspberry Pi)]===
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Blog link: [http://pi.gadgetoid.co.uk/post/001-who-watches-the-watcher Setting up the Broadcom watchdog to reboot a hung Pi (Raspberry Pi)]

A quick guide on setting up the watchdog process so that your Pi boots when it hangs or freezes. Adding "panic=20" is another good way of keeping your Pi running remotely.
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Intermediate
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Linux
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Philip Howard
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Available

|-
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |

===[http://linuxtortures.blogspot.fr/2012/07/communicating-with-raspberry-via-gsoap.html Communicating with RaspBerry via GSoap C++ Web Services]===
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Blog link: [http://linuxtortures.blogspot.fr/2012/07/communicating-with-raspberry-via-gsoap.html Communicating with RaspBerry via GSoap C++ Web Services]

A step by step guide about how to develop and deploy a C++ Web Service on our Raspberry using the open API GSoap.
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Intermediate
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Teaching, C++
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Javier Bravo
| vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
Available

|}

{{Template:Raspberry Pi}}

RPi 5V PSU construction

2012-07-30T14:21:52Z

Pinoccio: small corrections

Back to the [[R-Pi Hub|Hub]].
[[Category:RaspberryPi]]

== A 5V power supply for the Raspberry Pi - Construction How To ==

Due to various problems with the power supply for the RaspberryPi, a home made PSU might be a solution for some of you.
You will need some experience with construction of electronic circuits, appropriate tools and a multimeter.

I have had problems with a cheap 5V/1A adapter from Ebay too (freezing, no LAN, etc.) ... The adapter could not provide enough power. It had 5.0xV unloaded, but with RaspberryPi connected I've measured 4.78V and less - dropping to 4.5V on TP1 and TP2, and that's not good. The voltage drop might be partially caused by the cable, but I've used a branded Nokia cable that looks pretty solid. Anyway, we have to compensate for that too. Also there is some voltage drop on the polyfuse F3, hence don't expect to get >=5.0V on TP1-TP2... 
<gallery>
File:ebay_cheap_5V_adaptor1.jpg|Cheap PSU
File:ebay_cheap_5V_adaptor2.jpg|Cheap PSU - inside
</gallery>

So instead of looking for another PSU (or cell phone charger), I decided to make my own PSU with the popular 7805 - 5V/1A regulator.

'''The basic idea is shown on this schematic:'''

[[File:PSU_7805_v01.jpg|none]]

The resistors R1 and R2 serve as adjustment of the output voltage. The formula is: ''V out = V fixed + { R2 [ (V fixed/R1) + I standby] }'', where ''V fixed=5V'' and ''I standby=2.5mA'' (for 7805). I calculated for resistors that I had at home, but for best results R1 should be about 470ohm to 1k. Remember that resistors have some tolerance, so results may vary slightly, always measure. Value of C3 is not critical, I recommend 100-470uF. Same for C4, where for every 1A drawn, use 1000uF of capacity (and add some reserve). Don't forget to put C1 and C2 as close as possible to the regulator. And a heatsink for the regulator is necessary too.

''I've used an old 9.5V/1500mA power supply from an printer as the source for this regulator, so no transformer and rectifier etc. was needed in my case. And it works just fine :)''

'''Here is a schematic of a complete PSU including all components:''' 
(a suggestion, with better filtering and protection)

[[File:PSU_7805_v02.jpg|none]]

Starting from left, we have a transformer (protected by a fuse - F1) supplying about 7-12V AC at 2A (use what you have at home or what is cheaper to buy). Next is a rectifier (or 4 diodes / >1A) with caps (C7-C10, for filtering). Now we should have approx. <AC voltage> x 1.41 - so if we have a 9V transformer, it will be about 12.69V. The 7805 needs at least 2V (depending on type/manufacturer) more on the input than on the output (I prefer using a little more, >3V to be sure) for stable regulation, and it can be up to 35V (but a big difference between input and output voltage means "a lot work" for the regulator and a lot heating). In this case, 8-9V DC measured after the rectifier would be optimal. Main filtering is ensured by C4 (use at least 1000uF for each 1A drawn), another filtering after the regulator is C3 (100-470uF). C1-C6 serve the 7805 for stable function and HF filtering. R1 and R2 adjust the voltage to 5.25V, as described before. D1 and D2 are for protection. A transil is used for over-voltage (peaks) protection on the output, a 5V8 type should be fine (5.8V reverse standoff voltage and approx. 6.2V breakdown voltage) - use P6KE6.8A or BZW06-5V8. For operation signaling (device on) a LED coupled with R3 is used. You may use another fuse on the output - F2.

This is a rather fancy circuit, you may simplify it if you like - by leaving out C7-C10, C5, C6, D1, D2, LED and R3, F2 (and the transil, if you don't want any protection). Or leave just some of them. Your choice ;)

'''Also if you prefer to fine-tune the output voltage, you may replace R2 with a small pot (trimmer) as shown here:'''

[[File:PSU_7805_v03.jpg|none]]

With this values (R1=1k, R2=100) adjustment from 5V to approx. 5.75V is possible.

=== Resources on 7805 ===
For more info about the 7805 regulator, [http://www.google.com/search?q=7805+datasheet google the datasheet] and see the following resources.

Resource links: 
[http://www.rason.org/Projects/regulator/regulator.htm The Adjustable Voltage Regulator], 
[http://www.circuitstoday.com/variable-power-supply-using-7805 Variable power supply using 7805], 
or [http://www.google.com/search?q=7805+regulator google more]

=== The testing prototype ===
This is my testing prototype of this PSU, based on the first schematic. It's made of "what was found in the drawer". I've used an old 7805 regulator in TO3 package, C3 was taken from some broken mainboard, C4 is left out (it's not necessary, because the circuit is powered by a stable power supply from some old printer). The PSU provides stable 5.25V and i have 4.82V on TP1-TP2. My RaspberryPi works OK now :) 
<gallery>
File:RPi_5V_PSU_proto1_Pinoccio.jpg|5V PSU prototype
File:RPi_5V_PSU_proto2_Pinoccio.jpg|5V PSU prototype
File:RPi_5V_PSU_proto3_Pinoccio.jpg|5V PSU prototype
File:RPi_5V_PSU_proto4_Pinoccio.jpg|5V PSU prototype
</gallery>
I will make another PSU (for permanent operation) later - new 7805 in TO-220 package, appropriate heatsink, 1k resistor for R1 and a small pot for R2, new "fresh" caps and a transil, usb connector on PCB ... and I'll put it in some case.

~#Pinoccio

----
Back to the [[R-Pi Hub|Hub]].

RPi 5V PSU construction

2012-07-30T07:36:37Z

Pinoccio: minor text updates

Back to the [[R-Pi Hub|Hub]].
[[Category:RaspberryPi]]

== A 5V power supply for the Raspberry Pi - Construction How To ==

Due to various problems with the power supply for the RaspberryPi, a home made PSU might be a solution for some of you.
You will need some experience with construction of electronic circuits, appropriate tools and a multimeter.

I had problems with a cheap 5V/1A adapter from Ebay too (freezing, no LAN, etc.) ... The adaptor could not provide enough power. It had 5.0xV unloaded, but with RaspberryPi connected I've measured 4.78V and less - dropping to 4.5V on TP1 and TP2. The voltage drop might be partially caused by the cable, but I've used a branded Nokia cable that looks pretty solid. Anyway, we have to compensate for that too. 
<gallery>
File:ebay_cheap_5V_adaptor1.jpg|Cheap PSU
File:ebay_cheap_5V_adaptor2.jpg|Cheap PSU - inside
</gallery>

So instead of looking for another PSU (or cell phone charger), I decided to make my own PSU with the popular 7805 - 5V/1A regulator.

'''The basic idea is shown on this schematic:'''

[[File:PSU_7805_v01.jpg|none]]

The resistors R1 and R2 serve as adjustment of the output voltage. The formula is: ''V out = V fixed + { R2 [ (V fixed/R1) + I standby] }'', where ''V fixed=5V'' and ''I standby=V fixed/R1'' (or just use 2.5mA, it's not critical). I calculated for resistors that I had at home, but for best results R1 should be about 470ohm to 1k. Remember that resistors have some tolerance, always measure. Value of C3 is not critical, I recommend 100-470uF. Same for C4, where for every 1A drawn, use 1000uF of capacity (and add some reserve). Don't forget to put C1 and C2 as close as possible to the regulator. And a heatsink for the regulator is necessary too.

''I've used an old 9.5V/1500mA power supply from an printer as the source for this regulator, so no transformer and rectifier etc. was needed in my case. And it works just fine :)''

'''Here is a schematic of a complete PSU including all components:''' 
(a suggestion, with better filtering and protection)

[[File:PSU_7805_v02.jpg|none]]

Starting from left, we have a transformer (protected by a fuse - F1) supplying about 7-12V AC at 2A (use what you have at home or what is cheaper to buy). Next is a rectifier (or 4 diodes / >1A) with caps (C7-C10, for filtering). Now we should have approx. <AC voltage> x 1.41 - so if we have a 9V transformer, it will be about 12.69V. The 7805 needs at least 2V more on the input than on the output (I prefer using a little more, >3V to be sure) for stable regulation, and it can be up to 35V (but a big difference between input and output voltage means "a lot work" for the reulator and a lot heating). In this case, 8-9V DC measured after the rectifier would be optimal. Main filtering is ensured by C4 (use at least 1000uF for each 1A drawn), another filtering after the regulator is C3 (100-470uF). C1-C6 serve the 7805 for stable function and HF filtering. R1 and R2 adjust the voltage to 5.25V. D1 and D2 are for protection. A transil is used for over-voltage (peaks) protection on the output, a 5V8 type (5.8V reverse standoff voltage and approx. 6.2V breakdown voltage) - use P6KE6.8A or BZW06-5V8. For operation signaling (device on) a LED coupled with R3 is used. You may use another fuse on the output - F2.

This is a rather fancy circuit, you may simplify it if you like - by leaving out C7-C10, C5, C6, D1, D2, LED and R3, F2 (and the transil, if you don't want any protection). Or leave just some of them. Your choice ;)

'''Also if you prefer to fine-tune the output voltage, you may replace R2 with a small pot (trimmer) as shown here:'''

[[File:PSU_7805_v03.jpg|none]]

With this values (R1=1k, R2=100) adjustment from 5V to approx. 5.75V is possible.

=== Resources on 7805 ===
For more info about the 7805 regulator, [http://www.google.com/search?q=7805+datasheet google the datasheet] and see the following resources.

Resource links: 
[http://www.rason.org/Projects/regulator/regulator.htm The Adjustable Voltage Regulator], 
[http://www.circuitstoday.com/variable-power-supply-using-7805 Variable power supply using 7805], 
or [http://www.google.com/search?q=7805+regulator google more]

=== The testing prototype ===
This is my testing prototype of this PSU, based on the first schematic. It's made of "what was found in the drawer". I've used an old 7805 regulator in TO3 package, C3 was taken from some broken mainboard, C4 is left out (it's not necessary, because the circuit is powered by a stable power supply from some old printer). The PSU provides stable 5.25V and i have 4.82V on TP1-TP2. My RaspberryPi works OK now :) 
<gallery>
File:RPi_5V_PSU_proto1_Pinoccio.jpg|5V PSU prototype
File:RPi_5V_PSU_proto2_Pinoccio.jpg|5V PSU prototype
File:RPi_5V_PSU_proto3_Pinoccio.jpg|5V PSU prototype
File:RPi_5V_PSU_proto4_Pinoccio.jpg|5V PSU prototype
</gallery>
I will make another PSU (for permanent operation) later - new 7805 in TO-220 package, nice heatsink, 1k resistor for R1 and a small pot for R2, new "fresh" caps and a transil, usb connector on PCB ... and put it in some case.

~#Pinoccio

----
Back to the [[R-Pi Hub|Hub]].

File:RPi 5V PSU proto4 Pinoccio.jpg

2012-07-30T07:05:18Z

Pinoccio: 5V PSU prototype

5V PSU prototype

File:RPi 5V PSU proto3 Pinoccio.jpg

2012-07-30T07:04:59Z

Pinoccio: 5V PSU prototype

5V PSU prototype

File:RPi 5V PSU proto2 Pinoccio.jpg

2012-07-30T07:04:40Z

Pinoccio: 5V PSU prototype

5V PSU prototype

File:RPi 5V PSU proto1 Pinoccio.jpg

2012-07-30T07:04:21Z

Pinoccio: 5V PSU prototype

5V PSU prototype

RPi 5V PSU construction

2012-07-30T07:02:47Z

Pinoccio: /* The testing prototype */ added pictures

Back to the [[R-Pi Hub|Hub]].
[[Category:RaspberryPi]]

== A 5V power supply for the Raspberry Pi - How To ==

Due to various problems with the power supply for the RaspberryPi, a home made PSU might be a solution for some of you.
You will need some experience with construction of electronic circuits, appropriate tools and a multimeter.

I had problems with a cheap 5V/1A adapter from Ebay too (freezing, no LAN, etc.) ... The adaptor could not provide enough power. It had 5.0xV unloaded, but with RaspberryPi connected I've measured 4.78V and less - dropping to 4.5V on TP1 and TP2. 
<gallery>
File:ebay_cheap_5V_adaptor1.jpg|Cheap PSU
File:ebay_cheap_5V_adaptor2.jpg|Cheap PSU - inside
</gallery>

So instead of looking for another PSU (or cell phone charger), I decided to make my own PSU with the popular 7805 - 5V/1A regulator.

'''The basic idea is shown on this schematic:'''

[[File:PSU_7805_v01.jpg|none]]

The resistors R1 and R2 serve as adjustment of the output voltage. The formula is: ''V out = V fixed + { R2 [ (V fixed/R1) + I standby] }'', where ''V fixed=5V'' and ''I standby=V fixed/R1'' (or just use 2.5mA). I calculated for resistors that I had at home, but for best results R1 should be about 470ohm to 1k. Remember that resistors have some tolerance, always measure. Value of C3 is not critical, I recommend 100-470uF. Same for C4, where for every 1A drawn, use 1000uF of capacity (and add some reserve). Don't forget to put C1 and C2 as close as possible to the regulator. And a heatsink for the regulator is necessary too.

I've used an old 9.5V/1500mA power supply from an printer as the source for this regulator, so no transformer and rectifier etc. was needed in my case. And it works just fine :)

'''Here is a schematic of a complete PSU including all components:''' 
(a suggestion, with better filtering and protection)

[[File:PSU_7805_v02.jpg|none]]

Starting from left, we have a transformer (protected by a fuse - F1) supplying about 8-12V AC at 2A (use what you have at home or what is cheaper to buy). Next is a rectifier (or 4 diodes / >1A) with caps (C7-C10, for filtering). Now we should have approx. <AC voltage> x 1.41 - so if we have a 9V transformer, it will be about 12.69V. The 7805 needs at least 2V more on the input than on the output (I use >3V to be sure) for stable regulation, and it can be up to 35V. Main filtering is ensured by C4 (use at least 1000uF for each 1A drawn), another filtering after the regulator is C3 (100-470uF). C1-C6 serve the 7805 for stable function and HF filtering. R1 and R2 adjust the voltage to 5.25V. D1 and D2 are for protection. A transil is used for over-voltage (peaks) protection on the output, a 5V8 type (5.8V reverse standoff voltage and approx. 6.2V breakdown voltage) - use P6KE6.8A or BZW06-5V8. For operation signaling a LED coupled with R3 is used. You may use another fuse - F2 on the output.

This is a rather fancy circuit, you may simplify it if you like - by leaving out C7-C10, C5, C6, D1, D2, LED and R3, F2 (and the transil, if you don't want any protection). Your choice ;)

'''Also if you prefer to fine-tune the output voltage, you may replace R2 with a small pot (trimmer) as shown here:'''

[[File:PSU_7805_v03.jpg|none]]

With this values (R1=1k, R2=100) adjustment from 5V to approx. 5.75V is possible.

For more info on the 7805 regulator, [http://www.google.com/search?q=7805+datasheet google the datasheet] and see the following resources.

Resource links: 
[http://www.rason.org/Projects/regulator/regulator.htm The Adjustable Voltage Regulator], 
[http://www.circuitstoday.com/variable-power-supply-using-7805 Variable power supply using 7805]

=== The testing prototype ===
This is my testing prototype of this PSU, based on the first schematic. It's made of "what was found in the drawer". I've used an old 7805 regulator in TO3 package, C3 was taken from some broken mainboard, C4 is left out (it's not necessary, because the circuit is powered by a stable power supply from some old printer). The PSU provides stable 5.25V and i have 5.82V on TP1-TP2. My RaspberryPi works OK now :) 
<gallery>
File:RPi_5V_PSU_proto1_Pinoccio.jpg|5V PSU prototype
File:RPi_5V_PSU_proto2_Pinoccio.jpg|5V PSU prototype
File:RPi_5V_PSU_proto3_Pinoccio.jpg|5V PSU prototype
File:RPi_5V_PSU_proto4_Pinoccio.jpg|5V PSU prototype
</gallery>
I will make another PSU (for permanent operation) later - new 7805 in TO-220 package, nice heatsink, 1k resistor for R1 and a small pot for R2, new "fresh" caps and a transil, usb connector on PCB ... and put it in some case.

~#Pinoccio

----
Back to the [[R-Pi Hub|Hub]].

RPi 5V PSU construction

2012-07-29T23:07:05Z

Pinoccio: more details on this topic

Back to the [[R-Pi Hub|Hub]].
[[Category:RaspberryPi]]

== A 5V power supply for the Raspberry Pi - How To ==

Due to various problems with the power supply for the RaspberryPi, a home made PSU might be a solution for some of you.
You will need some experience with construction of electronic circuits, appropriate tools and a multimeter.

I had problems with a cheap 5V/1A adapter from Ebay too (freezing, no LAN, etc.) ... The adaptor could not provide enough power. It had 5.0xV unloaded, but with RaspberryPi connected I've measured 4.78V and less - dropping to 4.5V on TP1 and TP2. 
<gallery>
File:ebay_cheap_5V_adaptor1.jpg|Cheap PSU
File:ebay_cheap_5V_adaptor2.jpg|Cheap PSU - inside
</gallery>

So instead of looking for another PSU (or cell phone charger), I decided to make my own PSU with the popular 7805 - 5V/1A regulator.

'''The basic idea is shown on this schematic:'''

[[File:PSU_7805_v01.jpg|none]]

The resistors R1 and R2 serve as adjustment of the output voltage. The formula is: ''V out = V fixed + { R2 [ (V fixed/R1) + I standby] }'', where ''V fixed=5V'' and ''I standby=V fixed/R1'' (or just use 2.5mA). I calculated for resistors that I had at home, but for best results R1 should be about 470ohm to 1k. Remember that resistors have some tolerance, always measure. Value of C3 is not critical, I recommend 100-470uF. Same for C4, where for every 1A drawn, use 1000uF of capacity (and add some reserve). Don't forget to put C1 and C2 as close as possible to the regulator. And a heatsink for the regulator is necessary too.

I've used an old 9.5V/1500mA power supply from an printer as the source for this regulator, so no transformer and rectifier etc. was needed in my case. And it works just fine :)

'''Here is a schematic of a complete PSU including all components:''' 
(a suggestion, with better filtering and protection)

[[File:PSU_7805_v02.jpg|none]]

Starting from left, we have a transformer (protected by a fuse - F1) supplying about 8-12V AC at 2A (use what you have at home or what is cheaper to buy). Next is a rectifier (or 4 diodes / >1A) with caps (C7-C10, for filtering). Now we should have approx. <AC voltage> x 1.41 - so if we have a 9V transformer, it will be about 12.69V. The 7805 needs at least 2V more on the input than on the output (I use >3V to be sure) for stable regulation, and it can be up to 35V. Main filtering is ensured by C4 (use at least 1000uF for each 1A drawn), another filtering after the regulator is C3 (100-470uF). C1-C6 serve the 7805 for stable function and HF filtering. R1 and R2 adjust the voltage to 5.25V. D1 and D2 are for protection. A transil is used for over-voltage (peaks) protection on the output, a 5V8 type (5.8V reverse standoff voltage and approx. 6.2V breakdown voltage) - use P6KE6.8A or BZW06-5V8. For operation signaling a LED coupled with R3 is used. You may use another fuse - F2 on the output.

This is a rather fancy circuit, you may simplify it if you like - by leaving out C7-C10, C5, C6, D1, D2, LED and R3, F2 (and the transil, if you don't want any protection). Your choice ;)

'''Also if you prefer to fine-tune the output voltage, you may replace R2 with a small pot (trimmer) as shown here:'''

[[File:PSU_7805_v03.jpg|none]]

With this values (R1=1k, R2=100) adjustment from 5V to approx. 5.75V is possible.

For more info on the 7805 regulator, [http://www.google.com/search?q=7805+datasheet google the datasheet] and see the following resources.

Resource links: 
[http://www.rason.org/Projects/regulator/regulator.htm The Adjustable Voltage Regulator], 
[http://www.circuitstoday.com/variable-power-supply-using-7805 Variable power supply using 7805]

=== The testing prototype ===
This is my testing prototype of this PSU, as on the first schematic. It's made of "what was found in the drawer". I've used an old 7805 regulator in TO3 package, C3 was taken from some broken mainboard, C4 is left out (it's not necessary, because the circuit is powered by a stable power supply from some old printer). The PSU supplies stable 5.25V and i have 5.82V on TP1-TP2. My RaspberryPi works OK now :) 
///pictures will be added soon/// 
I will make another PSU (for permanent operation) later - new 7805 in TO-220 package, nice heatsink, 1k resistor for R1 and a small pot for R2, new "fresh" caps and a transil, usb connector on PCB ... and put it in some case.

~#Pinoccio

----
Back to the [[R-Pi Hub|Hub]].

RPi 5V PSU construction

2012-07-29T15:05:08Z

Pinoccio: /* A 5V power supply for the Raspberry Pi - How To */

== A 5V power supply for the Raspberry Pi - How To ==

Due to various problems with the power supply for the RaspberryPi, a home made PSU might be a solution for some of you.
You will need some experience with construction of electronic circuits, appropriate tools and a multimeter.

I had problems with a cheap 5V/1A adapter from Ebay too (freezing, no LAN, etc.) ...

<gallery>
File:ebay_cheap_5V_adaptor1.jpg|Cheap PSU
File:ebay_cheap_5V_adaptor2.jpg|Cheap PSU - inside
</gallery>

So I decided to make my own PSU with the popular 7805 - 5V/1A regulator.

'''The basic idea is shown on this schematic:'''

[[File:PSU_7805_v01.jpg|none]]

The resistors R1 and R2 serve as adjustment of the output voltage. The formula is: ''V out = V fixed + { R2 [ (V fixed/R1) + I standby] }'', where ''V fixed=5V'' and ''I standby=V fixed/R1'' (or just use 2.5mA). I calculated for resistors that I had at home, but for best results R1 should be about 470ohm to 1k. Value of C3 is not critical, I recommend 100-470uF. Same for C4, where for every 1A drawn, use 1000uF of capacity (and add some reserve). Don't forget to put C1 and C2 as close as possible to the regulator. And a heatsink for the regulator is necessary too.

I've used an old 9.5V/1500mA power supply from an printer as the source for this regulator, so no transformer and rectifier etc. was needed in my case. And it works just fine :)

'''Here is a schematic of a complete PSU including all components:'''

(with better filtering and protection)

[[File:PSU_7805_v02.jpg|none]]

Starting from left, we have a transformer (protected by a fuse - F1) supplying about 8-12V AC at 2A (use what you have at home or what is cheaper to buy). Next is a rectifier (or 4 diodes / >1A) with caps (C7-C10, for filtering). Now we should have approx. <AC voltage> x 1.41 - so if we have a 9V transformer, it will be about 12.69V. The 7805 needs at least 2V more on the input than on the output (I use >3V to be sure) for stable regulation, and it can be up to 35V. Main filtering is ensured by C4 (use at least 1000uF for each 1A drawn), another filtering after the regulator is C3 (100-470uF). C1-C6 serve the 7805 for stable function and HF filtering. R1 and R2 adjust the voltage to 5.25V. D1 and D2 are for protection. A transil is used for over-voltage protection on the output, a 5V8 (5.8V reverse standoff voltage and approx. 6.2V breakdown voltage) - use P6KE6.8A or BZW06-5V8. For operation signaling a LED with R3 is used. You may use another fuse - F2 on the output.

You also may simplify this circuit by leaving out C7-C10, C5, C6, D1, D2, LED and R3, F2 (and the transil, if you don't want any protection).

'''Also if you prefer to fine-tune the output voltage, you may replace R2 with a small pot (trimmer) as shown here:'''

[[File:PSU_7805_v03.jpg|none]]

With this values (R1=1k, R2=100) adjustment from 5V to approx. 5.75V is possible.

For more info on the 7805 regulator, [http://www.google.com/search?q=7805+datasheet google the datasheet] and see the following resources.

Resource links:
[http://www.rason.org/Projects/regulator/regulator.htm The Adjustable Voltage Regulator], [http://www.circuitstoday.com/variable-power-supply-using-7805 Variable power supply using 7805]

~#Pinoccio

RaspberryPi Boards

2012-07-29T14:39:56Z

Pinoccio: /* Hardware versions/revisions */

RPi 5V PSU construction

2012-07-29T14:36:54Z

Pinoccio: /* A 5V power supply for the Raspberry Pi - How To */

== A 5V power supply for the Raspberry Pi - How To ==

Due to various problems with the power supply for the RaspberryPi, a home made PSU might be a solution for some of you.
You will need some experience with construction of electronic circuits, appropriate tools and a multimeter.

I had problems with a cheap 5V/1A adapter from Ebay too (freezing, no LAN, etc.) ...

<gallery>
File:ebay_cheap_5V_adaptor1.jpg|Cheap PSU
File:ebay_cheap_5V_adaptor2.jpg|Cheap PSU - inside
</gallery>

So I decided to make my own PSU with the popular 7805 - 5V/1A regulator.

'''The basic idea is shown on this schematic:'''

[[File:PSU_7805_v01.jpg|none]]

The resistors R1 and R2 serve as adjustment of the output voltage. The formula is: ''V out = V fixed + { R2 [ (V fixed/R1) + I standby] }'', where ''V fixed=5V'' and ''I standby=V fixed/R1'' (or just use 2.5mA). Value of C3 is not critical, I recommend 100-470uF. Same for C4, where for every 1A drawn, use 1000uF of capacity (and add some reserve). Don't forget to put C1 and C2 as close as possible to the regulator. And a heatsink for the regulator is necessary too.

I've used an old 9.5V/1500mA power supply from an printer as the source for this regulator, so no transformer and rectifier etc. was needed in my case. And it works just fine :)

'''Here is a schematic of a complete PSU including all components:'''

(with better filtering and protection)

[[File:PSU_7805_v02.jpg|none]]

Starting from left, we have a transformer (protected by a fuse - F1) supplying about 8-12V AC at 2A (use what you have at home or what is cheaper to buy). Next is a rectifier (or 4 diodes / >1A) with caps (C7-C10, for filtering). Now we should have approx. <AC voltage> x 1.41 - so if we have a 9V transformer, it will be about 12.69V. The 7805 needs at least 2V more on the input than on the output (I use >3V to be sure) for stable regulation, and it can be up to 35V. Main filtering is ensured by C4 (use at least 1000uF for each 1A drawn), another filtering after the regulator is C3 (100-470uF). C1-C6 serve the 7805 for stable function and HF filtering. R1 and R2 adjust the voltage to 5.25V. D1 and D2 are for protection. A transil is used for over-voltage protection on the output, a 5V8 (5.8V reverse standoff voltage and approx. 6.2V breakdown voltage) - use P6KE6.8A or BZW06-5V8. For operation signaling a LED with R3 is used. You may use another fuse - F2 on the output.

You also may simplify this circuit by leaving out C7-C10, C5, C6, D1, D2, LED and R3, F2 (and the transil, if you don't want any protection).

'''Also if you prefer to fine-tune the output voltage, you may replace R2 with a small pot (trimmer) as shown here:'''

[[File:PSU_7805_v03.jpg|none]]

With this values (R1=1k, R2=100) adjustment from 5V to approx. 5.75V is possible.

For more info on the 7805 regulator, [http://www.google.com/search?q=7805+datasheet google the datasheet] and see the following resources.

Resource links:
[http://www.rason.org/Projects/regulator/regulator.htm The Adjustable Voltage Regulator], [http://www.circuitstoday.com/variable-power-supply-using-7805 Variable power supply using 7805]

~#Pinoccio

RPi 5V PSU construction

2012-07-29T14:33:36Z

Pinoccio: /* A 5V power supply for the Raspberry Pi - How To */

== A 5V power supply for the Raspberry Pi - How To ==

Due to various problems with the power supply for the RaspberryPi, a home made PSU might be a solution for some of you.
You will need some experience with construction of electronic circuits, appropriate tools and a multimeter.

I had problems with a cheap 5V/1A adapter from Ebay too (freezing, no LAN, etc.) ...

<gallery>
File:ebay_cheap_5V_adaptor1.jpg|Cheap PSU
File:ebay_cheap_5V_adaptor2.jpg|Cheap PSU - inside
</gallery>

So I decided to make my own PSU with the popular 7805 - 5V/1A regulator.

'''The basic idea is shown on this schematic:'''

[[File:PSU_7805_v01.jpg|none]]

The resistors R1 and R2 serve as adjustment of the output voltage. The formula is: ''V out = V fixed + { R2 [ (V fixed/R1) + I standby] }'', where ''V fixed=5V'' and ''I standby=V fixed/R1'' (or just use 2.5mA). Value of C3 is not critical, I recommend 100-470uF. Same for C4, where for every 1A drawn, use 1000uF of capacity (and add some reserve). Don't forget to put C1 and C2 as close as possible to the regulator. And a heatsink for the regulator is necessary too.

I've used an old 9.5V/1500mA power supply from an printer as the source for this regulator, so no transformer and rectifier etc. was needed in my case. And it works just fine :)

'''Here is a schematic of a complete PSU including all components:'''

(with better filtering and protection)

[[File:PSU_7805_v02.jpg|none]]

Starting from left, we have a transformer (protected by a fuse - F1) supplying about 8-12V AC at 2A (use what you have at home or what is cheaper to buy). Next is a rectifier (or 4 diodes / >1A) with caps (C7-C10, for filtering). Now we should have approx. <AC voltage> x 1.41 - so if we have a 9V transformer, it will be about 12.69V. The 7805 needs at least 2V more on the input than on the output (I use >3V to be sure) for stable regulation, and it can be up to 35V. Main filtering is ensured by C4 (use at least 1000uF for each 1A drawn), another filtering after the regulator is C3 (100-470uF). C1-C6 serve the 7805 for stable function and HF filtering. R1 and R2 adjust the voltage to 5.25V. D1 and D2 are for protection. A transil is used for over-voltage protection on the output, a 5V8 (5.8V reverse standoff voltage and approx. 6.2V breakdown voltage) - use P6KE6.8A or BZW06-5V8. For operation signaling a LED with R3 is used. You may use another fuse - F2 on the output.

You also may simplify this circuit by leaving out C7-C10, C5, C6, D1, D2, LED and R3, F2 (and the transil, if you don't want any protection).

'''Also if you prefer to fine-tune the output voltage, you may replace R2 with a small pot (trimmer) as shown here:'''

[[File:PSU_7805_v03.jpg|none]]

With this values adjustment from 5V to approx. 5.75V is possible.

For more info on the 7805 regulator, [http://www.google.com/search?q=7805+datasheet google the datasheet] and see the following resources.

Resource links:
[http://www.rason.org/Projects/regulator/regulator.htm The Adjustable Voltage Regulator], [http://www.circuitstoday.com/variable-power-supply-using-7805 Variable power supply using 7805]

~#Pinoccio

RPi Hardware

2012-07-29T14:24:51Z

Pinoccio: /* Power Supply Problems */ moved link - PSU construction

[[Category: RaspberryPi]]
{{Template:RPi_Hardware}}

==Introduction==
[[File:Rpi unpopulated pcb.jpg|thumb|right|The unpopulated Rpi bèta board]]
The first product is the size of a credit card, and is designed to plug into a TV or HDMI monitor. It comes in two variants, model A and B, with B having more features. The expected price is $25 for model A and $35 for model B. The [[Rpi Low-level peripherals| GPIO pins]] on each board allow the use of optional [[Rpi expansion boards|expansion boards]].

Those who are looking to set up a Raspberry Pi for the first time, see [[RPi Hardware Basic Setup]].

==Specifications==
{| class="wikitable"
!
! Model A
! Model B
|-
| Target price:<ref name="faq" >http://www.raspberrypi.org/faqs</ref>
| US$25 Ext tax (GBP £16 Exc VAT)
| US$35 Ext tax (GBP £22 Exc VAT)
|-
| System-on-a-chip (SoC):<ref name="faq" />
| colspan="2" | Broadcom BCM2835 (CPU + GPU + SDRAM)
|-
| CPU:
| colspan="2" | 700 MHz ARM11 ARM1176JZF-S core
|-
| GPU:
| colspan="2" | Broadcom VideoCore IV,OpenGL ES 2.0,OpenVG 1080p30 H.264 high-profile encode/decode
|-
| Memory (SDRAM)iB
| colspan="2" | 256 MiB (previously listed as 128 MiB for model A, but an upgrade to 256 MiB was announced on 29 Feb 2012)
|-
| USB 2.0 ports:
| 1(provided by the BCM2835)
| 2 (via integrated USB hub)
|-
| Video outputs:<ref name="faq" />
| colspan="2" | Composite video | Composite RCA, HDMI (not at the same time)
|-
| Audio outputs:<ref name="faq" />
| colspan="2" | TRS connector | 3.5 mm jack, HDMI
|-
| Audio inputs:
| colspan="2" | none, but a USB mic or sound-card could be added
|-
| Onboard Storage:
| colspan="2" | Secure Digital|SD / MMC / SDIO card slot
|-
| Onboard Network:<ref name="faq" />
| None
| 10/100 wired Ethernet RJ45
|-
| Low-level peripherals:
| colspan="2" | General Purpose Input/Output (GPIO) pins, Serial Peripheral Interface Bus (SPI), I²C, I²S<ref name="i2s">[http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/features-and-requests/sad-about-removal-of-i2s-why-was-this-change-made Forum:Sad about removal of I2S. Why was this change made?]</ref>, Universal asynchronous receiver/transmitter (UART)
|-
| Real-time clock:<ref name="faq" />
| colspan="2" | None
|-
| Power ratings (provisional, from alpha board):
| 500 mA, (2.5 W) <ref name="faq" />
| 700 mA, (3.5 W)
|-
| Power source:<ref name="faq" />
| colspan="2" | 5 V (DC) via Micro USB type B or GPIO header
|-
| Size:
| colspan="2" | 85.60 mm x 53.98 mm<ref>[http://www.raspberrypi.org/archives/344 Final PCB artwork]</ref> (3.370 × 2.125 in)
|}

==Components==
[[File:Raspi-Model-AB-Mono-2-699x1024.png|400px|thumb|right|A diagram denoting the places of the different components on the Rpi, made by Paul
Beech, edited to show 256MB ram for both boards]]
(Provisional - some of the expansion interfaces won't be available on production boards)
(PCB IDs are those of the Model B Beta board)

* SoC: [http://www.broadcom.com/products/BCM2835 Broadcom BCM2835 media processor] ([http://www.raspberrypi.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/BCM2835-ARM-Peripherals.pdf datasheet], [[BCM2835 datasheet errata]], [[RPi_BCM2835_Pinout|unofficial pinout]]) system-on-chip featuring:
** CPU core: [http://infocenter.arm.com/help/topic/com.arm.doc.ddi0301h/DDI0301H_arm1176jzfs_r0p7_trm.pdf ARM1176JZF-S] ARM11 core clocked at 700MHz; ARM VFP. The ARM11 core implements the ARMv6 Architecture. For details on ARM instruction sets and naming conventions, see [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ARM_architecture ARM architecture] and [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_ARM_microprocessor_cores List of ARM microprocessor cores].
** GPU core: a Broadcom [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Videocore VideoCore] IV GPU providing OpenGL ES 1.1, OpenGL ES 2.0, hardware-accelerated OpenVG 1.1, Open EGL, OpenMAX and 1080p30 H.264 high-profile decode. There are 24 GFLOPS of general purpose compute and a bunch of texture filtering and DMA infrastructure. Eben worked on the architecture team for this and the Raspberry Pi team are looking at how they can make some of the proprietary features available to application programmers
** DSP core: There is a DSP, but there isn't currently a public API (Liz thinks the BC team are keen to make one available at some point)
** 256MiB of ([http://www.hynix.com/products/mobile/view.jsp?info.ramKind=28&info.serialNo=H9TKNNN2GDMPLR&posMap=MobileDDR2 Hynix MobileDDR2] or [http://www.samsung.com/global/business/semiconductor/product/mobile-dram/detail?productId=7611&iaId=747 Samsung Mobile DRAM]) SDRAM. The RAM is physically stacked on top of the Broadcom media processor ([http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Package_on_package package-on-package technology]). Here is a photo of the [http://www.raspberrypi.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/brcm2835plusmemory.jpg SDRAM (left) and BCM2835 (right)] ball grid arrays on JamesH's finger. You are looking at the bottom side. The BCM2835 top side has a land grid array which matches the SDRAM ball grid array.
* LAN9512 ([http://www.smsc.com/media/Downloads_Public/Data_Briefs/9512db.pdf Data Brief] | [http://www.smsc.com/media/Downloads_Public/Data_Sheets/9512.pdf Data Sheet]) '''(Model B)''' providing:
** 10/100Mb Ethernet (Auto-MDIX)<ref name=autoMDIX>[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medium_dependent_interface#Auto-MDIX Wikipedia:Auto-MDIX]</ref>
** 2x USB 2.0
* S1: Micro USB power jack (5v - Power Only)
* S2: [http://www.mipi.org/specifications/display-interface DSI] interface. 15-pin surface mounted flat flex connector, providing two data lanes, one clock lane, 3.3V and GND.
* S3: HDMI connector providing type A HDMI 1.3a out
* S4: Composite Video connector: RCA
* S5: MIPI [http://www.mipi.org/specifications/camera-interface CSI-2] interface. 15-pin surface mounted flat flex connector.
* S6: Audio connector: 3.5mm stereo jack (output only)
* S8: SD/MMC/SDIO memory card slot (underside)
* S7: Either 1x USB 2.0 '''(Model A)''' 2x USB 2.0 '''(Model B)'''
* P1: 26-pin 2.54 mm header expansion, providing: see [[Rpi_Low-level_peripherals | Low-level peripherals]]
** 8 [[Rpi_Low-level_peripherals#General_Purpose_Input.2FOutput_.28GPIO.29|GPIO]]s at 3v3
** 2-pin UART serial console, 3v3 TTL (debug); or 2 GPIOs at 3v3
** I²C interface (3v3); or 2 GPIOs at 3v3
** SPI interface (3v3); or 5 GPIOs at 3v3
** 3v3, 5v and GND supply pins
** ARM JTAG (if pins are reconfigured in software and one signal is taken from S5)
** Second I²C interface (3v3) (if pins are reconfigured in software)
** I²S interface (if pins are reconfigured in software, hardware hack may be required<ref name="i2s"/>)
** 6 pins reserved for future use
* P2: 8-pin 2.54 mm header expansion providing GPU JTAG (ARM11 pinout, pin 7 is nofit for locating)
* P3: 7-pin 2.54 mm header expansion (header not fitted), providing LAN9512 JTAG (pin 6 is nofit for locating)
* P4: 10/100Mb RJ45 Ethernet jack '''(Model B)'''
* TP1 and TP2: Test Points giving access to +5V and GND respectively
* 5 Status LEDs<ref name="PCBs">[http://www.raspberrypi.org/archives/402 RPiBlog Post: High-res pics of the PCBs]</ref><ref name="LEDs">[http://twitpic.com/8edlsf TwitPic:Photo of Board Powered]</ref><ref name="LEDsGPIO">[http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/features-and-requests/what-do-the-status-indicator-leds-indicate-the-status-of Forum:What do the status indicator LEDs indicate the status of?]</ref><ref name="OKGreen">[[RPi_schematic_errata]]</ref>:
** D5(Green) - OK - SDCard Access (via GPIO16)
** D6(Red) - PWR - 3.3 V Power
** D7(Green) - FDX - Full Duplex (LAN) '''(Model B)'''
** D8(Green) - LNK - Link/Activity (LAN) '''(Model B)'''
** D9(Yellow) - 10M - 10/100Mbit (LAN) '''(Model B)'''

* Board size: 85.60 mm x 53.98 mm. Overall height expected to be less than 25 mm. <ref name="artwork">http://www.raspberrypi.org/archives/344</ref>
** A model B between highest points (USB connector to card slot) measured 21 mm.
* Weight: under 40 g?
** Alpha board weighs approx. 55 g.<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/?page_id=43&mingleforumaction=viewtopic&t=285.0</ref>
** A sample model B weighed 39.45 g.
* 6 layer PCB <ref name="artwork" />

==Schematic / Layout==

* [http://www.raspberrypi.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/gerbers2.png PCB screenshot]
* [http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uO4l8pwSLvU/TsQGbth6x6I/AAAAAAAAAkk/5zQMH3uKPiE/s829/Boardlayout.png PCB screenshot, labelled version]
* [http://www.raspberrypi.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/raspberry1.png PCB screenshot, Alpha board]
* [http://www.raspberrypi.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/psu.png Preliminary power supply schematic, Beta board]
* [http://elinux.org/File:RPi-Front-JPB.jpg High-resolution PCB front photo, production board]
* [http://elinux.org/File:RPi-back-JPB.jpg High-resolution PCB back photo, production board]
* [http://www.andrewscheller.co.uk/bare_pcb.xcf GIMP project containing properly aligned versions of the high-res PCB photos and Gerbers on separate layers (117MB)]
* [[Media:RPi beta xray.jpg|"Xray style" image of the beta board, created from the above GIMP project]] | [[RPi_xray_wallpapers|desktop wallpapers]]
* [http://www.raspberrypi.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/Raspberry-Pi-Schematics-R1.0.pdf Official schematics PDF] | [[RPi_schematic_errata|errata]] | [[RPi_schematics_breakdown|breakdown]]
* [http://www.andrewscheller.co.uk/rpi_pcb_modules.html 'Module groups' of the PCB photos]

==Power==

The board takes fixed 5V input, (with the 1V2 core voltage generated directly from the input using the internal switch-mode supply on the BCM2835 die).
This permits adoption of the micro USB form factor, which, in turn, prevents the user from inadvertently plugging in out-of-range power inputs; that would be dangerous, since the 5V would go straight to HDMI and output USB ports, even though the problem should be mitigated by some protections applied to the input power: The board provides a polarity protection diode, a voltage clamp, and a self-resetting semiconductor fuse.

Premier Farnell recommend the following power supplies:
* Model A: 5V dc, 500-700mA
* Model B: 5V dc, 700-1200mA

Power consumption of the Raspberry Pi device is

* Board A: 5V, 500 mA (2.5W) '''without any devices connected''' (e.g. USB, Ethernet, HDMI)
* Board B: 5V, 700 mA (3.5W) '''without any devices connected''' (e.g. USB, Ethernet, HDMI) (Is this correct? These [http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/usb-hub-sending-power-to-raspberry-pi-through-usb-port/#p68382] links [http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/general-discussion/raspberry-pi-power-requirements/page-2/#p68224] suggest that the 700mA is only required if "using networking and high-current USB peripherals" [http://www.raspberrypi.org/archives/260].)

You will need to provide a power supply that can provide enough current to power the device plus any connected peripherals, and taking into account inefficiencies of the supply itself and the cable between the power supply and Raspberry Pi. The community advises opting for a power supply that can supply at least 1A if using USB peripherals or Pi plates that draw more than a few tens of milliamps of current.

*As the 5V rail is brought out in the [[Rpi_Low-level_peripherals | GPIO pins]], you can power the Rpi from there too. You should mind however, that those are ''behind'' the power protection circuitry, so you should provide your own.
* It is possible to power the Rpi from a powered USB hub the Rpi controls, but only on 'dumb' devices, that allow the port to supply the full current without waiting for the usb device to ask for it[http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/general-discussion/power-pi-from-usb-hub-connected-to-pi]. As the power input of the Rpi doesn't have its data leads connected, there is no chance for a communication loop of some sorts.
* POE ([http://nl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_over_Ethernet power over ethernet]) is currently not available for the Rpi (but nobody stops you from taking your soldering iron and doing it yourself - mind though that the Ethernet jack on the board is a 'magjack' - http://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Prototyping/MagJack.pdf - which means that the usual 'dumb or passive PoE' power pins 47 and 78 are *not* wired through to the board. So this is not an entirely trivial exercise).

===Power Supply Problems===

There have been a number of problems reported that seem to be caused by inadequate power, this is an attempt to explain what is needed and the consequences of not having enough power.

The power required by the Pi will vary depending on how busy it is and what peripherals are connected.
* Running a GUI will take more power.
* The USB devices and Ethernet connection will take power.
* Running the GPU will take extra power.

This means that it's difficult to say exactly how much power is needed. People have reported current requirements of between 300mA and 550mA. But it could in reality take more, especially for short periods. A simple multimeter will not show short surges on the power requirement. A surge in the power requirement for a few milliseconds will not be detectable by a meter but will be enough to cause problems.
If the board does not get enough power the voltage will drop. If it drops enough parts of the system will run unreliably because data can get corrupted. The USB IC runs on 5V and handles the USB and Ethernet ports so it's likely that this will be the first thing to fail. Problems seen are unreliable Ethernet connection and unreliable operation of the Keyboard and/or mouse.

Each of the two USB ports on the Pi has a polyfuse rated at 140 mA, so any connected USB devices should draw less than this amount of current. In addition the polyfuse will cause a significant voltage drop, so that USB devices get less voltage than is available on the RPI itself, sometimes up to half a volt less (maybe more if the fuse has recently been hot). For regular "low power" USB devices this doesn't cause a problem as they are designed to work with voltages as low as 4.4 Volt. This isn't the case however with some USB devices such as WiFi dongles which may need 4.75 Volt, and are also known to draw more than 150 mA when configured and active.

The microUSB input port also has a 1.1 A polyfuse (700mA "hold current") which may also have enough resistance (although much smaller than the 140mA fuses) to cause a significant voltage drop on the board, even below its 1.1 A total current.

A extended explanation of the consequences of the use of these polyfuses can be found here [[Polyfuses explained]]

There are several reasons why the power to the board may be inadequate:
* The PSU may not deliver enough power. Although the maximum power requirement is said to be 700mA, that is with no peripherals connected (USB, Ethernet etc), so a 1000mA PSU should be regarded as a minimum. This allows some leeway in case the power supply cannot deliver its full power without the voltage dropping.
* The PSU is not regulated.
* The cable connecting the PSU to the Pi may not be good. People have reported cables with 4 ohms resistance on the power connections. At 500mA drain this would reduce a 5V supply to 3V.

====How Can I tell if the power supply is inadequate?====

Common symptoms of an inadequate power supply are
* Unreliable Ethernet or keyboard operation, especially if it's OK at first but not when the GUI is started.
* SD card errors at start up seems to be another symptom of poor power.

If you think you have a problem with your power supply, it is a good idea to check the actual voltage
on the Raspberry Pi circuit board. Two test points labelled TP1 and TP2 are provided on the circuit board
to facilitate voltage measurements.

Use a multimeter which is set to the range 20 volts DC (or 20v =). You should see a voltage between 4.75 and 5.25 volts. Anything outside this range indicates that you have a problem with your power supply or your power cable. Anything inside, but close to the limits, of this range ''may'' indicate a problem.

[[File:RPI_Test_Points.JPG|400px]] [[File:Voltmeter.JPG|250px]]

It has been reported by a number of users that Apple iPhone and iPad USB power supplies are inadequate for powering the R-Pi. ([http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XX3kiRUf7mg]).

====Things that can cause problems====
* A USB connection on a TV or PC. The USB power supply specification is for up to 500mA and if the TV implements this then it can cause problems. The system may work initially but be unreliable because as it becomes more active the power requirement increases.
* A single supply from a powered hub. Most hubs seem to deliver more than the specified current but there's no guarantee. Check the power supply rating, it must be enough to supply everything that's connected to the hub.
* A power supply that is rated for less than 700mA may work some of the time.
* Adding a USB hard disk drive. A HDD will take quite a lot of power as it starts, maybe an amp or more. It the power supply for this also supplies the Pi then this could overload things and cause trouble.
* Some complex keyboards have been reported to take a considerable amount of power, maybe up to 500mA. The Pi cannot deliver this amount of power. Simpler budget keyboards may be better. If the system works with no keyboard attached but not with a keyboard then it's worth trying a different, simpler, keyboard.

====Summary====

* If you are having unreliable operation the first thing to do is check your power supply.
* Start with a good quality regulated power supply that is rated to provide 5V and at least 1A (1000mA).
* Use a good quality micro USB cable. Cables are notorious for giving trouble so be prepared to swap for another one.
* Not all power supplies will deliver what they claim.

===Capacitor C6===
Behind the microUSB power connector on the Model B is a metallic grey component called a capacitor, marked as C6. This capacitor helps stabilise the DC power on the board, but for some it has also become a place for their thumb when removing the RPI's power lead; unfortunately, this can result in the capacitor breaking off! It has been stated in the forums that the type of capacitor used for C6 will be changed on later RPi models for one with sturdier leads. If you do break off your C6 capacitor, it's highly likely that your RPi will still work properly, unless you have a particularly unstable power supply, but the general advice is to not use C6 as a leverage point when removing the power connector and also take care when storing or transporting your RPi if it's not fitted in a case - try not to stow the board where C6 could be knocked by other items - for example in a laptop carry case or in amongst some books.
[[File:Rpic6.jpg|300px|thumb|center|Capacitor C6 (ringed)]]

It's unlikely that replacing a broken off C6 capacitor will be covered under warranty, but fortunately they are easy to replace if you have average [http://www.raspberrypi.org/archives/1494 soldering skills], but remember that reworking your RPi will void its warranty too. C6 is a surface mount electrolytic capacitor with a capacitance of 220 microfarad (μF) and a voltage rating of 16 volt (V). The capacitor is polarised and so must be fitted the right way round - notice the black marking on one side in the picture above. A replacement capacitor can be purchased from numerous sources - for example:

[http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/browse.jsp?N=202457+110114112+110119850+110141127+110200576&No=0&getResults=true&appliedparametrics=true&locale=en_UK&divisionLocale=en_UK&catalogId=&skipManufacturer=false&skipParametricAttributeId=&prevNValues=202457+110114112+110119850+110141127&mm=1000002|110114112|110114112,1001880|110119850|110119850,1002520||,1002063||,1002999||,&filtersHidden=false&appliedHidden=false&autoApply=true&originalQueryURL=%2Fjsp%2Fsearch%2Fbrowse.jsp%3FN%3D202457%26No%3D0%26getResults%3Dtrue%26appliedparametrics%3Dtrue%26locale%3Den_UK%26divisionLocale%3Den_UK%26catalogId%3D%26skipManufacturer%3Dfalse%26skipParametricAttributeId%3D%26prevNValues%3D202457 Farnell]

[http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/220uf-16v-85deg-Smd-Electro-Capacitor-11-2264 Rapid Electronics]

[http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/passives/capacitors/aluminium/?sort-by=default&sort-order=default&applied-dimensions=4294884868,%204294884170,%204294672278,4294885140&lastAttributeSelectedBlock=4294955811 RS Components]

If you prefer to make your own PSU - see: [[RPi_5V_PSU_construction| Power Supply construction - HowTo]]

==References==
<references/>

{{Template:Raspberry Pi}}

RPi Hardware

2012-07-29T14:22:47Z

Pinoccio: /* Power Supply Problems */ added link - PSU construction

[[Category: RaspberryPi]]
{{Template:RPi_Hardware}}

==Introduction==
[[File:Rpi unpopulated pcb.jpg|thumb|right|The unpopulated Rpi bèta board]]
The first product is the size of a credit card, and is designed to plug into a TV or HDMI monitor. It comes in two variants, model A and B, with B having more features. The expected price is $25 for model A and $35 for model B. The [[Rpi Low-level peripherals| GPIO pins]] on each board allow the use of optional [[Rpi expansion boards|expansion boards]].

Those who are looking to set up a Raspberry Pi for the first time, see [[RPi Hardware Basic Setup]].

==Specifications==
{| class="wikitable"
!
! Model A
! Model B
|-
| Target price:<ref name="faq" >http://www.raspberrypi.org/faqs</ref>
| US$25 Ext tax (GBP £16 Exc VAT)
| US$35 Ext tax (GBP £22 Exc VAT)
|-
| System-on-a-chip (SoC):<ref name="faq" />
| colspan="2" | Broadcom BCM2835 (CPU + GPU + SDRAM)
|-
| CPU:
| colspan="2" | 700 MHz ARM11 ARM1176JZF-S core
|-
| GPU:
| colspan="2" | Broadcom VideoCore IV,OpenGL ES 2.0,OpenVG 1080p30 H.264 high-profile encode/decode
|-
| Memory (SDRAM)iB
| colspan="2" | 256 MiB (previously listed as 128 MiB for model A, but an upgrade to 256 MiB was announced on 29 Feb 2012)
|-
| USB 2.0 ports:
| 1(provided by the BCM2835)
| 2 (via integrated USB hub)
|-
| Video outputs:<ref name="faq" />
| colspan="2" | Composite video | Composite RCA, HDMI (not at the same time)
|-
| Audio outputs:<ref name="faq" />
| colspan="2" | TRS connector | 3.5 mm jack, HDMI
|-
| Audio inputs:
| colspan="2" | none, but a USB mic or sound-card could be added
|-
| Onboard Storage:
| colspan="2" | Secure Digital|SD / MMC / SDIO card slot
|-
| Onboard Network:<ref name="faq" />
| None
| 10/100 wired Ethernet RJ45
|-
| Low-level peripherals:
| colspan="2" | General Purpose Input/Output (GPIO) pins, Serial Peripheral Interface Bus (SPI), I²C, I²S<ref name="i2s">[http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/features-and-requests/sad-about-removal-of-i2s-why-was-this-change-made Forum:Sad about removal of I2S. Why was this change made?]</ref>, Universal asynchronous receiver/transmitter (UART)
|-
| Real-time clock:<ref name="faq" />
| colspan="2" | None
|-
| Power ratings (provisional, from alpha board):
| 500 mA, (2.5 W) <ref name="faq" />
| 700 mA, (3.5 W)
|-
| Power source:<ref name="faq" />
| colspan="2" | 5 V (DC) via Micro USB type B or GPIO header
|-
| Size:
| colspan="2" | 85.60 mm x 53.98 mm<ref>[http://www.raspberrypi.org/archives/344 Final PCB artwork]</ref> (3.370 × 2.125 in)
|}

==Components==
[[File:Raspi-Model-AB-Mono-2-699x1024.png|400px|thumb|right|A diagram denoting the places of the different components on the Rpi, made by Paul
Beech, edited to show 256MB ram for both boards]]
(Provisional - some of the expansion interfaces won't be available on production boards)
(PCB IDs are those of the Model B Beta board)

* SoC: [http://www.broadcom.com/products/BCM2835 Broadcom BCM2835 media processor] ([http://www.raspberrypi.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/BCM2835-ARM-Peripherals.pdf datasheet], [[BCM2835 datasheet errata]], [[RPi_BCM2835_Pinout|unofficial pinout]]) system-on-chip featuring:
** CPU core: [http://infocenter.arm.com/help/topic/com.arm.doc.ddi0301h/DDI0301H_arm1176jzfs_r0p7_trm.pdf ARM1176JZF-S] ARM11 core clocked at 700MHz; ARM VFP. The ARM11 core implements the ARMv6 Architecture. For details on ARM instruction sets and naming conventions, see [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ARM_architecture ARM architecture] and [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_ARM_microprocessor_cores List of ARM microprocessor cores].
** GPU core: a Broadcom [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Videocore VideoCore] IV GPU providing OpenGL ES 1.1, OpenGL ES 2.0, hardware-accelerated OpenVG 1.1, Open EGL, OpenMAX and 1080p30 H.264 high-profile decode. There are 24 GFLOPS of general purpose compute and a bunch of texture filtering and DMA infrastructure. Eben worked on the architecture team for this and the Raspberry Pi team are looking at how they can make some of the proprietary features available to application programmers
** DSP core: There is a DSP, but there isn't currently a public API (Liz thinks the BC team are keen to make one available at some point)
** 256MiB of ([http://www.hynix.com/products/mobile/view.jsp?info.ramKind=28&info.serialNo=H9TKNNN2GDMPLR&posMap=MobileDDR2 Hynix MobileDDR2] or [http://www.samsung.com/global/business/semiconductor/product/mobile-dram/detail?productId=7611&iaId=747 Samsung Mobile DRAM]) SDRAM. The RAM is physically stacked on top of the Broadcom media processor ([http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Package_on_package package-on-package technology]). Here is a photo of the [http://www.raspberrypi.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/brcm2835plusmemory.jpg SDRAM (left) and BCM2835 (right)] ball grid arrays on JamesH's finger. You are looking at the bottom side. The BCM2835 top side has a land grid array which matches the SDRAM ball grid array.
* LAN9512 ([http://www.smsc.com/media/Downloads_Public/Data_Briefs/9512db.pdf Data Brief] | [http://www.smsc.com/media/Downloads_Public/Data_Sheets/9512.pdf Data Sheet]) '''(Model B)''' providing:
** 10/100Mb Ethernet (Auto-MDIX)<ref name=autoMDIX>[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medium_dependent_interface#Auto-MDIX Wikipedia:Auto-MDIX]</ref>
** 2x USB 2.0
* S1: Micro USB power jack (5v - Power Only)
* S2: [http://www.mipi.org/specifications/display-interface DSI] interface. 15-pin surface mounted flat flex connector, providing two data lanes, one clock lane, 3.3V and GND.
* S3: HDMI connector providing type A HDMI 1.3a out
* S4: Composite Video connector: RCA
* S5: MIPI [http://www.mipi.org/specifications/camera-interface CSI-2] interface. 15-pin surface mounted flat flex connector.
* S6: Audio connector: 3.5mm stereo jack (output only)
* S8: SD/MMC/SDIO memory card slot (underside)
* S7: Either 1x USB 2.0 '''(Model A)''' 2x USB 2.0 '''(Model B)'''
* P1: 26-pin 2.54 mm header expansion, providing: see [[Rpi_Low-level_peripherals | Low-level peripherals]]
** 8 [[Rpi_Low-level_peripherals#General_Purpose_Input.2FOutput_.28GPIO.29|GPIO]]s at 3v3
** 2-pin UART serial console, 3v3 TTL (debug); or 2 GPIOs at 3v3
** I²C interface (3v3); or 2 GPIOs at 3v3
** SPI interface (3v3); or 5 GPIOs at 3v3
** 3v3, 5v and GND supply pins
** ARM JTAG (if pins are reconfigured in software and one signal is taken from S5)
** Second I²C interface (3v3) (if pins are reconfigured in software)
** I²S interface (if pins are reconfigured in software, hardware hack may be required<ref name="i2s"/>)
** 6 pins reserved for future use
* P2: 8-pin 2.54 mm header expansion providing GPU JTAG (ARM11 pinout, pin 7 is nofit for locating)
* P3: 7-pin 2.54 mm header expansion (header not fitted), providing LAN9512 JTAG (pin 6 is nofit for locating)
* P4: 10/100Mb RJ45 Ethernet jack '''(Model B)'''
* TP1 and TP2: Test Points giving access to +5V and GND respectively
* 5 Status LEDs<ref name="PCBs">[http://www.raspberrypi.org/archives/402 RPiBlog Post: High-res pics of the PCBs]</ref><ref name="LEDs">[http://twitpic.com/8edlsf TwitPic:Photo of Board Powered]</ref><ref name="LEDsGPIO">[http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/features-and-requests/what-do-the-status-indicator-leds-indicate-the-status-of Forum:What do the status indicator LEDs indicate the status of?]</ref><ref name="OKGreen">[[RPi_schematic_errata]]</ref>:
** D5(Green) - OK - SDCard Access (via GPIO16)
** D6(Red) - PWR - 3.3 V Power
** D7(Green) - FDX - Full Duplex (LAN) '''(Model B)'''
** D8(Green) - LNK - Link/Activity (LAN) '''(Model B)'''
** D9(Yellow) - 10M - 10/100Mbit (LAN) '''(Model B)'''

* Board size: 85.60 mm x 53.98 mm. Overall height expected to be less than 25 mm. <ref name="artwork">http://www.raspberrypi.org/archives/344</ref>
** A model B between highest points (USB connector to card slot) measured 21 mm.
* Weight: under 40 g?
** Alpha board weighs approx. 55 g.<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/?page_id=43&mingleforumaction=viewtopic&t=285.0</ref>
** A sample model B weighed 39.45 g.
* 6 layer PCB <ref name="artwork" />

==Schematic / Layout==

* [http://www.raspberrypi.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/gerbers2.png PCB screenshot]
* [http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uO4l8pwSLvU/TsQGbth6x6I/AAAAAAAAAkk/5zQMH3uKPiE/s829/Boardlayout.png PCB screenshot, labelled version]
* [http://www.raspberrypi.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/raspberry1.png PCB screenshot, Alpha board]
* [http://www.raspberrypi.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/psu.png Preliminary power supply schematic, Beta board]
* [http://elinux.org/File:RPi-Front-JPB.jpg High-resolution PCB front photo, production board]
* [http://elinux.org/File:RPi-back-JPB.jpg High-resolution PCB back photo, production board]
* [http://www.andrewscheller.co.uk/bare_pcb.xcf GIMP project containing properly aligned versions of the high-res PCB photos and Gerbers on separate layers (117MB)]
* [[Media:RPi beta xray.jpg|"Xray style" image of the beta board, created from the above GIMP project]] | [[RPi_xray_wallpapers|desktop wallpapers]]
* [http://www.raspberrypi.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/Raspberry-Pi-Schematics-R1.0.pdf Official schematics PDF] | [[RPi_schematic_errata|errata]] | [[RPi_schematics_breakdown|breakdown]]
* [http://www.andrewscheller.co.uk/rpi_pcb_modules.html 'Module groups' of the PCB photos]

==Power==

The board takes fixed 5V input, (with the 1V2 core voltage generated directly from the input using the internal switch-mode supply on the BCM2835 die).
This permits adoption of the micro USB form factor, which, in turn, prevents the user from inadvertently plugging in out-of-range power inputs; that would be dangerous, since the 5V would go straight to HDMI and output USB ports, even though the problem should be mitigated by some protections applied to the input power: The board provides a polarity protection diode, a voltage clamp, and a self-resetting semiconductor fuse.

Premier Farnell recommend the following power supplies:
* Model A: 5V dc, 500-700mA
* Model B: 5V dc, 700-1200mA

Power consumption of the Raspberry Pi device is

* Board A: 5V, 500 mA (2.5W) '''without any devices connected''' (e.g. USB, Ethernet, HDMI)
* Board B: 5V, 700 mA (3.5W) '''without any devices connected''' (e.g. USB, Ethernet, HDMI) (Is this correct? These [http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/usb-hub-sending-power-to-raspberry-pi-through-usb-port/#p68382] links [http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/general-discussion/raspberry-pi-power-requirements/page-2/#p68224] suggest that the 700mA is only required if "using networking and high-current USB peripherals" [http://www.raspberrypi.org/archives/260].)

You will need to provide a power supply that can provide enough current to power the device plus any connected peripherals, and taking into account inefficiencies of the supply itself and the cable between the power supply and Raspberry Pi. The community advises opting for a power supply that can supply at least 1A if using USB peripherals or Pi plates that draw more than a few tens of milliamps of current.

*As the 5V rail is brought out in the [[Rpi_Low-level_peripherals | GPIO pins]], you can power the Rpi from there too. You should mind however, that those are ''behind'' the power protection circuitry, so you should provide your own.
* It is possible to power the Rpi from a powered USB hub the Rpi controls, but only on 'dumb' devices, that allow the port to supply the full current without waiting for the usb device to ask for it[http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/general-discussion/power-pi-from-usb-hub-connected-to-pi]. As the power input of the Rpi doesn't have its data leads connected, there is no chance for a communication loop of some sorts.
* POE ([http://nl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_over_Ethernet power over ethernet]) is currently not available for the Rpi (but nobody stops you from taking your soldering iron and doing it yourself - mind though that the Ethernet jack on the board is a 'magjack' - http://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Prototyping/MagJack.pdf - which means that the usual 'dumb or passive PoE' power pins 47 and 78 are *not* wired through to the board. So this is not an entirely trivial exercise).

===Power Supply Problems===

There have been a number of problems reported that seem to be caused by inadequate power, this is an attempt to explain what is needed and the consequences of not having enough power.

The power required by the Pi will vary depending on how busy it is and what peripherals are connected.
* Running a GUI will take more power.
* The USB devices and Ethernet connection will take power.
* Running the GPU will take extra power.

This means that it's difficult to say exactly how much power is needed. People have reported current requirements of between 300mA and 550mA. But it could in reality take more, especially for short periods. A simple multimeter will not show short surges on the power requirement. A surge in the power requirement for a few milliseconds will not be detectable by a meter but will be enough to cause problems.
If the board does not get enough power the voltage will drop. If it drops enough parts of the system will run unreliably because data can get corrupted. The USB IC runs on 5V and handles the USB and Ethernet ports so it's likely that this will be the first thing to fail. Problems seen are unreliable Ethernet connection and unreliable operation of the Keyboard and/or mouse.

Each of the two USB ports on the Pi has a polyfuse rated at 140 mA, so any connected USB devices should draw less than this amount of current. In addition the polyfuse will cause a significant voltage drop, so that USB devices get less voltage than is available on the RPI itself, sometimes up to half a volt less (maybe more if the fuse has recently been hot). For regular "low power" USB devices this doesn't cause a problem as they are designed to work with voltages as low as 4.4 Volt. This isn't the case however with some USB devices such as WiFi dongles which may need 4.75 Volt, and are also known to draw more than 150 mA when configured and active.

The microUSB input port also has a 1.1 A polyfuse (700mA "hold current") which may also have enough resistance (although much smaller than the 140mA fuses) to cause a significant voltage drop on the board, even below its 1.1 A total current.

A extended explanation of the consequences of the use of these polyfuses can be found here [[Polyfuses explained]]

There are several reasons why the power to the board may be inadequate:
* The PSU may not deliver enough power. Although the maximum power requirement is said to be 700mA, that is with no peripherals connected (USB, Ethernet etc), so a 1000mA PSU should be regarded as a minimum. This allows some leeway in case the power supply cannot deliver its full power without the voltage dropping.
* The PSU is not regulated.
* The cable connecting the PSU to the Pi may not be good. People have reported cables with 4 ohms resistance on the power connections. At 500mA drain this would reduce a 5V supply to 3V.

If you prefer to make your own PSU - see: [[RPi_5V_PSU_construction| Power Supply construction - HowTo]]

====How Can I tell if the power supply is inadequate?====

Common symptoms of an inadequate power supply are
* Unreliable Ethernet or keyboard operation, especially if it's OK at first but not when the GUI is started.
* SD card errors at start up seems to be another symptom of poor power.

If you think you have a problem with your power supply, it is a good idea to check the actual voltage
on the Raspberry Pi circuit board. Two test points labelled TP1 and TP2 are provided on the circuit board
to facilitate voltage measurements.

Use a multimeter which is set to the range 20 volts DC (or 20v =). You should see a voltage between 4.75 and 5.25 volts. Anything outside this range indicates that you have a problem with your power supply or your power cable. Anything inside, but close to the limits, of this range ''may'' indicate a problem.

[[File:RPI_Test_Points.JPG|400px]] [[File:Voltmeter.JPG|250px]]

It has been reported by a number of users that Apple iPhone and iPad USB power supplies are inadequate for powering the R-Pi. ([http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XX3kiRUf7mg]).

====Things that can cause problems====
* A USB connection on a TV or PC. The USB power supply specification is for up to 500mA and if the TV implements this then it can cause problems. The system may work initially but be unreliable because as it becomes more active the power requirement increases.
* A single supply from a powered hub. Most hubs seem to deliver more than the specified current but there's no guarantee. Check the power supply rating, it must be enough to supply everything that's connected to the hub.
* A power supply that is rated for less than 700mA may work some of the time.
* Adding a USB hard disk drive. A HDD will take quite a lot of power as it starts, maybe an amp or more. It the power supply for this also supplies the Pi then this could overload things and cause trouble.
* Some complex keyboards have been reported to take a considerable amount of power, maybe up to 500mA. The Pi cannot deliver this amount of power. Simpler budget keyboards may be better. If the system works with no keyboard attached but not with a keyboard then it's worth trying a different, simpler, keyboard.

====Summary====

* If you are having unreliable operation the first thing to do is check your power supply.
* Start with a good quality regulated power supply that is rated to provide 5V and at least 1A (1000mA).
* Use a good quality micro USB cable. Cables are notorious for giving trouble so be prepared to swap for another one.
* Not all power supplies will deliver what they claim.

===Capacitor C6===
Behind the microUSB power connector on the Model B is a metallic grey component called a capacitor, marked as C6. This capacitor helps stabilise the DC power on the board, but for some it has also become a place for their thumb when removing the RPI's power lead; unfortunately, this can result in the capacitor breaking off! It has been stated in the forums that the type of capacitor used for C6 will be changed on later RPi models for one with sturdier leads. If you do break off your C6 capacitor, it's highly likely that your RPi will still work properly, unless you have a particularly unstable power supply, but the general advice is to not use C6 as a leverage point when removing the power connector and also take care when storing or transporting your RPi if it's not fitted in a case - try not to stow the board where C6 could be knocked by other items - for example in a laptop carry case or in amongst some books.
[[File:Rpic6.jpg|300px|thumb|center|Capacitor C6 (ringed)]]

It's unlikely that replacing a broken off C6 capacitor will be covered under warranty, but fortunately they are easy to replace if you have average [http://www.raspberrypi.org/archives/1494 soldering skills], but remember that reworking your RPi will void its warranty too. C6 is a surface mount electrolytic capacitor with a capacitance of 220 microfarad (μF) and a voltage rating of 16 volt (V). The capacitor is polarised and so must be fitted the right way round - notice the black marking on one side in the picture above. A replacement capacitor can be purchased from numerous sources - for example:

[http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/browse.jsp?N=202457+110114112+110119850+110141127+110200576&No=0&getResults=true&appliedparametrics=true&locale=en_UK&divisionLocale=en_UK&catalogId=&skipManufacturer=false&skipParametricAttributeId=&prevNValues=202457+110114112+110119850+110141127&mm=1000002|110114112|110114112,1001880|110119850|110119850,1002520||,1002063||,1002999||,&filtersHidden=false&appliedHidden=false&autoApply=true&originalQueryURL=%2Fjsp%2Fsearch%2Fbrowse.jsp%3FN%3D202457%26No%3D0%26getResults%3Dtrue%26appliedparametrics%3Dtrue%26locale%3Den_UK%26divisionLocale%3Den_UK%26catalogId%3D%26skipManufacturer%3Dfalse%26skipParametricAttributeId%3D%26prevNValues%3D202457 Farnell]

[http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/220uf-16v-85deg-Smd-Electro-Capacitor-11-2264 Rapid Electronics]

[http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/passives/capacitors/aluminium/?sort-by=default&sort-order=default&applied-dimensions=4294884868,%204294884170,%204294672278,4294885140&lastAttributeSelectedBlock=4294955811 RS Components]

==References==
<references/>

{{Template:Raspberry Pi}}

R-Pi Troubleshooting

2012-07-29T14:20:38Z

Pinoccio: /* Troubleshooting power problems */ link to PSU construction

Back to the [[R-Pi Hub|Hub]].

[[Category:RaspberryPi]]
This page lists the most common problems and suggests some solutions.

==Power / Start-up==
A good power supply that will supply 5V is vital. There is more information about See [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems]].
===Red power LED does not light, nothing on display===
The power is not properly connected.

===Red power LED is blinking===
The red power LED should never blink, because it is hard-wired to the 3.3V power supply rail. If it is blinking, as one user has reported<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=7528</ref> it means the 5V power supply is dropping out. Use a different power supply.

===Red power LED is on, green LED does not flash, nothing on display===
*The Raspberry Pi cannot find a valid image on the SD card. Check card is inserted correctly. Check that you have correctly written a Raspberry Pi image to the card. Insert the SD card into a Windows machine and you should see bootcode.bin, loader.bin and start.elf amongst others. See also, [[RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#SD_cards|Known SD Cards]].
*Try with no cables connected except the USB power lead, and SD card inserted. You should see flashing of the OK light for ~20 seconds. If that helps, plug in cables one at a time to identify which is interfering with boot.
*The voltage is too low (below 5 V), try a different power supply and/or cable. The R-Pi needs a supply rated for 700 mA or more. Some supplies labeled as such cannot actually provide their rated current while maintaining 5V. See also, [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems]].
*There is a bug in the distributed version of bootcode.bin which causes problems with some sdcards. Try this version: https://github.com/raspberrypi/firmware/blob/234c19de7cbaaf4997671d61df20a05759066295/boot/bootcode.bin. Please let us know if it "fixes" your non-working SD card (or, more importantly, if it doesn't). This can also manifest itself as intermittent booting, or only booting when cold.
*''(unlikely)'' hardware abuse, for example by connecting a 7 V supply to a 3v3 GPIO output pin<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5096&p=76503#p76503</ref> or powering up the board after a solder splash shorts some traces<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5096&p=76654#p76654</ref>.

===Green LED blinks in a specific pattern===

With recent firmware, according to [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=8725#p103338 this forum post] the green light will blink in a specific pattern to indicate some types of errors:

* 3 flashes: <tt>loader.bin</tt> not found
* 4 flashes: <tt>loader.bin</tt> not launched
* 5 flashes: <tt>start.elf</tt> not found
* 6 flashes: <tt>start.elf</tt> not launched

===Coloured splash screen===
[[File:Debug-screen.jpg]]

With recent firmware, a coloured splash screen is displayed after firmware (start.elf) is loaded. This should be replaced by linux console a second later.
However if the coloured screen remains, it suggests the kernel.img file is failing to boot. Try replacing it with a known good one.

===Kernel Panic on boot ===
Text appears on screen, but then hangs with debug messages. This can be caused by USB devices such as keyboards.
Try again with nothing in the USB.

===Raspberry Pi shuts down soon after booting up===
This is caused by a power supply producing too low a voltage. See [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems]].

===Pi boots sometimes but not always===
With a known good power supply and known good SD card, the R-Pi boots occasionally, but other times shows only a tiny green flicker from the "OK" LED and it fails to start, even with no USB devices and no Ethernet. This has been reported several times<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/will-not-boot-consistently-any-suggestions-before-i-send-my-pi-back</ref>
<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/booted-once-wont-work-again</ref>
<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/possible-fault-pi-boots-sometimes-but-not-always</ref> and remains an open issue. Low voltage or an improper SD card can cause it. Some SD cards will work until they warm up slightly, and then fail<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5900&p=79008#p79008</ref>. When exposed to 21 C room temperature the warmest part of an uncased working R-Pi should be 41 C<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5900&p=78973#p78973</ref>. The wiki has a [[RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#SD_cards | list of working SD cards]]. Buy from a reliable vendor as it has been [http://www.petapixel.com/2011/05/20/one-third-of-the-sandisk-memory-cards-on-earth-are-counterfeit/ claimed] that 1/3 of all "Sandisk" labelled memory cards are counterfeit.

==Keyboard / Mouse / Input Devices==

===R-Pi does not respond to key presses / Keyboard randomly repeats key presses===
This is caused by inadequate power. Use a good power supply and a good power cable. Some cheap cables that work with a cell phone, cannot fully power the R-Pi. Some USB devices require a lot of power: most will have a label showing the voltage and mA requirements. They should be 5v 100mA each max, any more than this they must be used with a powered USB hub. Try unplugging every USB device except the keyboard (you should also note that some keyboards have built in hubs and can try to draw 150mA (Pi can only handle 100mA per USB slot without a hub)).
Also, use the latest software. Forum user MrEngman [http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/absolute-beginners/using-a-powered-usb-port-to-power-a-rpi#p76485 reported] some keyboard repeats and wireless hangs until [http://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads upgrading] to the debian6-19-04-2012 kernel, which he reports stable with no problems even with a low [[R-Pi_Troubleshooting#Troubleshooting_power_problems | TP1-TP2 voltage]] of 4.65 - 4.68 volts.

===Keyboard / Mouse interferes with USB WiFi device===
Connecting a keyboard and/or mouse while a USB WiFi device is connected, may cause one or both devices to malfunction. On April 30 2012, there was a bugfix<ref>https://github.com/raspberrypi/linux/commit/e09244e60881148431ecd016ccc42f1fa0678556</ref> relating to USB sharing between high-speed (eg. WiFi) and full/low-speed devices (eg. keyboard/mouse). User spennig<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/usb-power-hub-wifi/page-4#p74609</ref><ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/success-with-kb-mouse-wifi?value=3761&type=8&include=1&search=1</ref> reports this patch did not fix the Mouse/WiFi conflict. On 2012-05-12, user spennig was pleased to confirm that wifi was working with a USB keyboard and mouse, as long as the Raspberry Pi had a good PSU and a powered hub. Even so, some experimentation was needed, e.g. USB mouse connected to the device, and the keyboard and mouse connected to the powered hub. Some experimentation may be necessary to find a working combination; however a good power supply is essential.

===Wireless Keyboard trouble===
Some wireless keyboards, for example the Microsoft Wireless Keyboard 800 are reported to fail<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/display-and-keyboard-issues-on-a-real-pi#p74816</ref> even though the current drawn by the wireless adaptor is within the R-Pi USB spec limit of 100 mA. This may be a software driver problem.

===Re-mapping the keyboard with Debian Squeeze===
If different letters appear on-screen from that which you typed, you need to reconfigure you keyboard settings. In Debian, from a command line type:
sudo dpkg-reconfigure keyboard-configuration
Follow the prompts. Then restart your RasPi. '''Or:''' From the command line type:
sudo nano /etc/default/keyboard
Then find where it says <blockquote>XKBLAYOUT=”gb”</blockquote>and change the gb to the two letter code for your country. [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=78325#p78325]

===Slow keyboard mapping===
If you have remapped your keyboard and get a very long delay during the keyboard mapping at startup, type the following once on the command line after you have logged in:
sudo setupcon

===No USB device works, with known good PS, SD card, KB===
There has been more than one report<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=7533</ref><ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=5766#p77576</ref><ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=5766#p80995</ref> of a R-Pi booting but not getting USB input, using a known-good power supply, SD card, and keyboard. The more common cause for no USB devices working is [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems|low power supply voltage]] from bad PSU, cable, or USB hub, but in this case the problem was no clock signal present at the LAN9512 USB/Ethernet chip "IC3", and the solution was to reflow the solder on the 25 MHz crystal "X1" on the bottom side of the board.
Or return the board for a replacement, but before making this conclusion, confirm known good peripherals. A significant number of
[[RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#USB_Keyboards| USB keyboards]] are not compatible with R-Pi. As of June 1 2012, Eben reported<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=6822&p=89589&hilit=eben#p89513</ref> that only about 1 in 1000 shipped R-Pi boards have been found to have a hardware fault of any kind.

== Updating firmware ==
=== Check your firmware version ===
Using the latest firmware version may help various problems with SD card and display compatibility. Check the kernel version with:
uname -a
Linux RPi 3.1.19 #1 PREEMPT Fri Jun 1 14:16:38 CEST 2012 armv6l GNU/Linux

And the GPU firmware with:
/opt/vc/bin/vcgencmd version
May 31 2012 13:35:03
Copyright (c) 2012 Broadcom
version 317494 (release)

=== Get the latest firmware version ===
The GPU firmware and kernel can be updated with [https://github.com/Hexxeh/rpi-update Hexxeh's rpi-update tool].

However this requires the Pi to be successfully booted. With sdcard problems, you may not get that far, so can try a manual udpate.
If you have a Linux machine, rpi-update can be run on that in an offline mode, and will update your sdcard from the Linux machine.

Otherwise, on a Windows computer, you will see the "/boot" partition appear as the contents of SD card.
You can download the latest GPU firmware version [https://github.com/raspberrypi/firmware/blob/master/boot/start.elf here].
Click on '''view raw''', then save it, and put the new start.elf file on the sdcard replacing the existing one. Similarly, the latest kernel is [https://github.com/raspberrypi/firmware/tree/master/boot/kernel.img here].
After updating these files you should be able to boot. You still need to run rpi-update to update the kernel modules (in /lib/modules) and the GPU libraries (in /opt/vc).

=== Choosing the right ARM/GPU memory split ===
There is a choice of how the 256M of RAM is divided between the ARM and GPU:
arm224_start.elf : 224M ARM, 32M GPU split : Maximum ARM memory. Good for ARM desktop use. No accelerated video or 3D possible.
arm192_start.elf : 192M ARM, 64M GPU split : Reasonable ARM memory. Simple video (omxplayer) or 3D (quake) is possible. This is the default.
arm128_start.elf : 128M ARM, 128M GPU split : Use this for heavy 3D work, or 3D plus video. Needed for XBMC.

To switch replace start.elf with one of the above files and reboot. E.g.
sudo cp /boot/arm224_start.elf /boot/start.elf && sudo reboot

== SD cards ==

* If you have problems, check you have latest firmware version (described above)
* Some SD cards do not work on the R-Pi, so check the [[RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#SD_cards|list of known SD cards]].
* If you are having problems setting up your SD card you might want to start by erasing it completely - especially if it has been used elsewhere and still contains data / partitions.
** Windows and Mac users can download a formatting tool from the SD Association: https://www.sdcard.org/downloads/formatter_3/
* Reformatting cards is also easy to do in a digital camera.
* After writing the image to the SD card, verify that you can see the boot partition when you insert the SD card into your computer. The partition should contain a number of files, including ''start.elf'' and ''kernel.img''. If you do not see these files on the SD card, you have made an error writing the image file.
* If you are manually preparing your SD card on Linux or Mac OS using the ''dd'' command, this operation will completely erase any existing data and partitions. Make sure you write to the whole card (e.g. <tt>/dev/sdd</tt>) and not to an existing partition (e.g. <tt>/dev/sdd1</tt>).
* If you have an sdcard that doesn't work with latest firmware, head over [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=63&t=6093 here].
* If you put the SD card into your PC in an attempt to write the R-Pi operating system onto it, and the PC tells you the card is write-protected, even with the write-protect tab in the correct, forward position, then you may have a faulty SD-card rewriter. There's a common fault with many SD-card rewriters - The write-protect tab is detected by a very thin, narrow metal strip, that is part of a switch. When the card is inserted, the write-protect tab is supposed to push the strip and make/break the contact, as needed. Unfortunately, these strips have a habit of getting stuck, because they are mounted in a thin plastic channel, and only need to be deformed slightly sideways to get jammed.
Luckily, if you have this problem, most built-in card readers are easy to pull apart and repair; some users have even reported succesfully unjamming the switch with a blast of compressed air from a can into the SD-card slot without having to dismantle anything.
You may also be able to temporarily get round the problem by putting the write-protect tab in a half-way position - this pushes on a different part of the strip and may break the contact - it's worth trying a few, slightly different positions. You could also use a USB-SD card adaptor, which are cheap to buy.

==Networking==

===Ethernet connection is lost when a USB device is plugged in===
This is caused by inadequate power. Use a good power supply and a good power cable. Some cheap cables that work with a cell phone, cannot fully power the R-Pi. Some USB devices require a lot of power (>100 mA), so they must be used with a powered USB hub. Some cheap USB hubs suck power from the Raspberry Pi even if a USB power supply is connected.

There is an ongoing issue with the Ethernet connection being lost when mouse and / or keyboard are connected via a powered USB hub. The simplest way to solve this is to connect your mouse and keyboard directly into the 2 USB ports on the R-Pi.

===Ethernet connects at 10M instead of 100M===
The LED in the corner of the board labelled "10M" is mislabeled. When that LED is on, the R-Pi is actually connected at 100 Mbps. You can confirm the true transfer rate using a network benchmark such as iperf. You can also read the current network speed with
cat /sys/class/net/eth0/speed

===Cannot ssh in to Pi===

In the Debian image, ssh is disabled by default. Boot commands are taken from /boot/boot.rc if that file present. There is an example file named '''boot_enable_ssh.rc''' that enables ssh. So:

sudo mv /boot/boot_enable_ssh.rc /boot/boot.rc

and reboot should enable ssh. (password as below)

===Network/USB chip gets too hot to touch===

This is normal. In open air at 24 C, the LAN9512 Ethernet/USB chip reaches about 52 C after some time. This is too hot to touch for more than a few seconds, but it is not unusually hot for the chip.

The
[http://www.smsc.com/media/Downloads_Public/Data_Sheets/9512.pdf LAN9512 data sheet] in Table 4.1 on p.40 says it comes in two versions, rated for operation at an ambient temperature in still air (Ta) of 70 C (commercial) or 85 C (industrial). It uses 763 mW at 3.3V with maximum traffic on 100baseT and both USB ports (Table 4.3.4, p. 42).

There is a study of RasPi heat profiles by "Remy" at [http://www.geektopia.es/es/technology/2012/06/22/articulos/se-calienta-el-ordenador-raspberry-pi-estudio-de-sus-temperaturas-en-funcionamiento.html ¿Se calienta el ordenador Raspberry Pi? Estudio de sus temperaturas en funcionamiento] (''Is the Raspberry Pi computer getting hot? A study of its operational temperature.'') The Spanish article has numerous color temperature images of RasPi in various operational modes, with the highest LAN9512 case temperature measured as 64.5 C.

===Networking no longer works when changing SD card between two Raspberry Pis===

In some distributions, /etc/udev/rules.d/70-persistent-net.rules remembers which MAC address is associated with eth0, so each new device will be assigned as a different interface (eth1, eth2, etc.) due to the different MAC addresses. Editing /etc/udev/rules.d/70-persistent-net.rules to remove the invalid rules and rebooting may help fix the problem.

==Passwords==
===I do not know the password to login===
Please check the page [http://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads http://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads] for the correct username and password for each image.

Here are the most common username/password combinations:
*Debian after Feb 2012: pi/raspberry
*Debian 17 Feb 2012: pi/suse
*Arch: root/root

===Some programs refuse to accept my password===
While using Debian, some programs may ask for your password but refuse to accept a valid password.

This is a fault in some Debian images and will be fixed soon. If you are using an image with this fault, enter the following command on the command line.
gconftool-2 --type bool --set /apps/gksu/sudo-mode true
Please enter this command carefully, the spaces are important. The command should be accepted without any response or errors.

===I don't know the root password===

There is no root password set by default on Debian. You are expected to do everything through sudo. You can set one with "sudo passwd root" - just make sure you know what you are doing with a root account.

==Sound==
===Sound does not work with an HDMI monitor===
This is caused by some computer monitors which select DVI mode even if an HDMI cable is connected. This fix may be necessary even if other HDMI devices work perfectly on the same monitor (or TV)!

Edit the configuration file - see the instructions at [[R-Pi_ConfigurationFile]].

Add the following line to the configuration file:
hdmi_drive=2

This will force it to select HDMI mode.

===Sound does not work at all, or in some applications===
In Debian Squeeze, sound is disabled by default because the ALSA sound driver is still "alpha" (not fully tested) on the R-Pi. To try out sound, from the command prompt ''before'' "startx", type

sudo apt-get install alsa-utils
sudo modprobe snd_bcm2835

On Debian Wheezy, snd_bm2835 is enabled, by default, do that step is not necessary. Next try:

sudo aplay /usr/share/sounds/alsa/Front_Center.wav

By default output will be automatic (hdmi if hdmi supports audio, otherwise analogue). You can force it with:

sudo amixer cset numid=3 <n>

where n is 0=auto, 1=headphones, 2=hdmi.

With recent firmware, you can build hello_audio with:
cd /opt/vc/src/hello_pi/
./rebuild.sh
cd hello_audio

With older firmware
cd /opt/vc/src/hello_pi/hello_audio
make

to test analogue output:
./hello_audio.bin
and:
./hello_audio.bin 1
to test HDMI.

Also note that you may have to add your user to the 'audio' group to get permission to access the sound card.

==Display==
===Startx fails to start===
If you just get errors instead of a desktop when typing
startx
you may be out of storage space on the SD card. By default there are only a few hundred MB free in the 2 GB main partition, which can quickly fill up if you download files. Make sure there is some space free (gparted can expand a partition, if the SD card is > 2GB). Also, installing some software may incorrectly create or modify a .Xauthority file in your home directory, causing startx to fail, according to [http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/startx-fails-worked-yesterday this thread]. Temporarily renaming, moving, or deleting that file may fix the problem.

===Video does not play or plays very slowly===
The only hardware-accelerated video player is in the [http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/general-discussion/openelec-meets-raspberry-pi-part-1-xbmc XBMC distribution] and its command line variant [[omxplayer]]. H264 is the only hardware-accelerated codec, for playback. No hardware encoding is supported. Additional codecs were not purchased as licensing fees would have increased the R-Pi's price.

===Can only get 800x480 resolution in LXDE (Arch linux)===
Known issue with distro package as of 17th April 2012 - there's some missing boot config information. Creating a suitable cmdline.txt fixes it - type the following at the Raspberry Pi command line:

<pre>
sudo echo "dwc_otg.lpm_enable=0 console=ttyAMA0,115200 kgdboc=ttyAMA0,115200 root=/dev/mmcblk0p2 rootfstype=ext3 rootwait" >/boot/cmdline.txt
</pre>

===Big black borders around small image on HD monitors===

Out of the box, R-Pi graphics don't necessarily fill the whole screen. This is due to something called "Underscan", and it can be fixed easily.

Note: the best solution is to disable overscan in display menu options (it may be called "just scan", "screen fit", "HD size", "full pixel", "unscaled", "dot by dot", "native" or "1:1"), then use the disable_overscan=1 option.

Edit the configuration file, see the instructions at [[R-Pi_ConfigurationFile]].

Add the following lines to the configuration file...

If your display has no overscan:

<pre>

disable_overscan=1

</pre>

or if your display has some overscan:

<pre>

overscan_left=-20

overscan_right=-20

overscan_top=-20

overscan_bottom=-20

</pre>

Making the R-Pi graphics fill the screen is a matter of experimenting with the numbers you put in the config.txt file. Change the numbers – try jumps of 5 or 10 at a time. Bigger negative numbers reduce the black borders (so -40 means less black border than -20). The numbers do not all have to be the same; you can use this feature to centre the display on the screen.

===Writing spills off the screen on HD monitors===

Out of the box, R-Pi graphics may be larger than the 1080p (ie Full HD) screen. This is due to something called "Overscan", and it can be fixed easily by creating a simple text file on the R-Pi SD card by using Notepad on your PC.

Follow the instructions in the section "Big black borders around small image on HD monitors", but use positive numbers for the overscan settings, for example
<pre>

overscan_left=20

overscan_right=20

overscan_top=20

overscan_bottom=20

</pre>

===Interference visible on a HDMI or DVI monitor===
This may be caused by loss of signal on long video cables. The signal level may be increased by changing a configuration parameter.

[[File:RPi_HDMI_interference.jpg|600px]]

Edit the configuration file, see the instructions at [[R-Pi_ConfigurationFile]].

Add the following line to the configuration file
config_hdmi_boost=4

You may experiment with different values of config_hdmi_boost. Value 1 is used for very short cables, value 7 is used for very long cables.

This option can also help when there is no display output at all, the display periodically blanks, or colours are wrong/inverted.

This symptom can also be caused by RasPi +5V (measured from TP1 to TP2) falling too low. See "Troubleshooting Power Problems".

===No HDMI output at all===
First make sure the display is powered on and switched to the right input before booting Pi.

If you have the [http://www.raspberrypi.org/archives/1435 Wheezy] image (recommended) then try
hdmi_safe=1

Otherwise, try adding the following line to the configuration file (similar to interference case above)
config_hdmi_boost=4

Your monitor/cable may not be asserting the hotplug signal. You can override this with:
hdmi_force_hotplug=1

Also [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=7513 try] the following video options:
hdmi_group=2
hdmi_mode=4
which resolved an issue with DVI monitor reporting "input signal out of range"

As a last resort, try deleting (rename to keep backup) config.txt from the SD card.

Also check that the RasPi +5V voltage (measured from TP1 to TP2) is in the correct range. One user found that his DVI-D monitor blanked out when +5V was too low. See "Troubleshooting Power Problems".

===Composite displays only back and white or no image===
Remember, the output display will be HDMI if detected, and composite if not. Make sure there isn't a HDMI cable connected when you are wanting composite output.

We default to NTSC output. Most TVs will show an image with that, but if not:

Edit the configuration file, see the instructions at [[R-Pi_ConfigurationFile]].

Add the following line to the configuration file
sdtv_mode=2

(You can try other values: 0 is NTSC, 1 is Japanese NTSC, 2 is PAL, 3 is Brazilian PAL)

==GPIO==
Remember that the GPIO pins are 3.3V logic level only, and are NOT 5V tolerant.

If you momentarily shorted the two end GPIO pins together (+3.3V and +5V), or a supply pin to ground, and the Pi appears to be dead, don't panic. The input polyfuse may have tripped. It is self-resetting after it cools down and the polymer re-crystallizes, which can take several hours. Set the Pi aside and try again later.

The GPIO pins connect directly into the core of the ARM processer, and are static-sensitive, so you should avoid touching the pins wherever possible. If you are carrying a static charge, for example by taking off an acrylic pullover, or walking across a nylon carpet, touching the GPIO pins could destroy your R-Pi, so always earth yourself before touching the pins or anything connected to them.

==General==
===The time is incorrect===
If the clock is off by a series of hours, in the command line type:
sudo dpkg-reconfigure tzdata

The R-Pi has no real-time clock, so unless it can access a timeserver over the network at boot, or time is manually entered by the user, the time/date will restart counting from the last logged time in the previous session.

===A part broke off===

The silver cylinder near the microUSB power input is a 220 uF capacitor ("C6" on schematic). It sticks up and due to the small surface-mount pads, it is easy to break off; several people have done so. This is a power supply filter capacitor which reduces any noise and spikes on the input +5V power. If you like, you can solder it back on, or just leave it off. If you do solder it back on, take care to observe the correct polarity with the black stripe towards the board edge. This part, C6 is a "just in case" component which is good design practice to include, but [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4926| as it turns out] most power supplies still work OK without this part installed. This part is also [http://elinux.org/RPi_Hardware#Capacitor_C6 discussed here].

==Troubleshooting power problems==

If you think you have a problem with your power supply, it is a good idea to check the actual voltage
on the Raspberry Pi circuit board. Two test points labelled TP1 and TP2 are provided on the circuit board
to facilitate voltage measurements.

Use a multimeter which is set to the range 20 volts DC (or 20v =). You should see a voltage between 4.75 and 5.25 volts. Anything outside this range indicates that you have a problem with your power supply or your power cable.

If you have not used a multimeter before, see these [[http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/202 basic instructions]]

Note: Even if the multimeter shows the correct voltage, you may have some power supply problems. A multimeter only displays the average voltage. If there are very short-lived dips or spikes in the voltage, these will not be shown by the multimeter. It is best to measure voltage when Pi is busy.

If your voltage is low, it could be:
* The power supply produces too low a voltage
* The power supply cannot supply enough current, which results in a voltage drop. Make sure Power supply is labelled as at least 700mA. (Some cheap power supplies don't deliver what is labelled).
* The USB power cable is low quality. See: [[On_the_RPi_usb_power_cable]]
* Attached USB devices want too much power. The Pi is only designed for up to 100mA USB devices. A USB device wanting more that that will cause a voltage drop.
Note: keyboards with LCD displays, built in USB hubs, backlights, etc are likely to be problematic. Try to use a basic one. Wifi dongles are also unlikely to work when directly connected. Connect high powered USB devices to a powered USB hub.

Try booting without HDMI, ethernet or USB deviced plugged in, and see if the voltage improves.
See also: [[RPi_Hardware#Power_Supply_Problems| Power Supply Problems]]

[[File:RPI_Test_Points.JPG|400px]] [[File:Voltmeter.JPG|250px]]

If you prefer to make your own PSU - see: [[RPi_5V_PSU_construction| Power Supply construction - HowTo]]

==Hardware versions/revisions==
Several different boards have been found probably from different assembly lines, and the following tables try to help you identify your board for better troubleshooting.

Look for the date of manufacturing printed with the year and week. In this example year (2012) and week (18th):[[File:Date_of_manufacturing.jpg|200px|thumb|right]]

For what we can see for model B boards there are mainly two versions that differ on the type RAM used, Samsung (S) and Hynix (H).

For '''Board ver'''. we used: <model><RAM Maker><production date> (ex.: BS1218 is "Model B, Samsung RAM, 18th week of 2012")

Model A:
{| border="1" class="wikitable"
|-
! Board
ver.
! RAM
Chip
! USB
Chip
! Front
! Back
|-
|
|
|
|
|
|}

Model B:
{| border="1" class="wikitable"
|-
! Board
ver.
! RAM
Chip
! USB
Chip
! Front
! Back
|-
| BS12xx
| Samsung
| SMSC
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_A-Front.JPG|200px|thumb|center]]
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_A-Back.JPG|200px|thumb|center]]
|-
| BH12xx
| Hynix
| SMSC
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_B-Front.JPG|200px|thumb|center]]
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_B-Back.JPG|200px|thumb|center]]
|}

<big>See a '''complete list''' and user feedback here: [[RaspberryPi Boards]]</big>

==References==
<references>
</references>

RPi 5V PSU construction

2012-07-29T14:14:11Z

Pinoccio: /* A 5V power supply for the Raspberry Pi - How To */

== A 5V power supply for the Raspberry Pi - How To ==

Due to various problems with the power supply for the RaspberryPi, a home made PSU might be a solution for some of you.
You will need some experience with construction of electronic circuits, appropriate tools and a multimeter.

I had problems with a cheap 5V/1A adapter from Ebay too (freezing, no LAN, etc.) ...

<gallery>
File:ebay_cheap_5V_adaptor1.jpg|Cheap PSU
File:ebay_cheap_5V_adaptor2.jpg|Cheap PSU - inside
</gallery>

So I decided to make my own PSU with the popular 7805 - 5V/1A regulator.

'''The basic idea is shown on this schematic:'''

[[File:PSU_7805_v01.jpg|none]]

The resistors R1 and R2 serve as adjustment of the output voltage. The formula is: ''V out = V fixed + { R2 [ (V fixed/R1) + I standby] }'', where ''V fixed=5V'' and ''I standby=V fixed/R1'' (or just use 2.5mA). Value of C3 is not critical, I recommend 100-470uF. Same for C4, where for every 1A drawn, use 1000uF of capacity (and add some reserve). Don't forget to put C1 and C2 as close as possible to the regulator. And a heatsink for the regulator is necessary too.

I've used an old 9.5V/1500mA power supply from an printer as the source for this regulator, so no transformer and rectifier etc. was needed in my case. And it works just fine :)

'''Here is a schematic of a complete PSU including all components:'''

[[File:PSU_7805_v02.jpg|none]]

Starting from left, we have a transformer (protected by a fuse - F1) supplying about 8-12V AC at 2A (use what you have at home or what is cheaper to buy). Next is a rectifier (or 4 diodes / >1A) with caps (C7-C10, for filtering). Now we should have approx. <AC voltage> x 1.41 - so if we have a 9V transformer, it will be about 12.69V. The 7805 needs at least 2V more on the input than on the output (I use >3V to be sure) for stable regulation, and it can be up to 35V. Main filtering is ensured by C4 (use at least 1000uF for each 1A drawn), another filtering after the regulator is C3 (100-470uF). C1-C6 serve the 7805 for stable function and HF filtering. R1 and R2 adjust the voltage to 5.25V. D1 and D2 are for protection. A transil is used for over-voltage protection on the output, a 5V8 (5.8V reverse standoff voltage and approx. 6.2V breakdown voltage) - use P6KE6.8A or BZW06-5V8. For operation signaling a LED with R3 is used. You may use another fuse - F2 on the output.

'''Also if you prefer to fine-tune the output voltage, you may replace R2 with a small pot (trimmer) as shown here:'''

[[File:PSU_7805_v03.jpg|none]]

With this values adjustment from 5V to approx. 5.75V is possible.

For more info on the 7805 regulator, [http://www.google.com/search?q=7805+datasheet google the datasheet] and see the following resources.

Resource links:
[http://www.rason.org/Projects/regulator/regulator.htm The Adjustable Voltage Regulator], [http://www.circuitstoday.com/variable-power-supply-using-7805 Variable power supply using 7805]

~#Pinoccio

File:PSU 7805 v03.jpg

2012-07-29T14:06:07Z

Pinoccio: 5V PSU with 7805

5V PSU with 7805

File:PSU 7805 v02.jpg

2012-07-29T14:05:49Z

Pinoccio: 5V PSU with 7805

5V PSU with 7805

File:PSU 7805 v01.jpg

2012-07-29T14:05:31Z

Pinoccio: 5V PSU with 7805

5V PSU with 7805

RPi 5V PSU construction

2012-07-29T14:04:58Z

Pinoccio:

== A 5V power supply for the Raspberry Pi - How To ==

Due to various problems with the power supply for the RaspberryPi, a home made PSU might be a solution for some of you.
You will need some experience with construction of electronic circuits, appropriate tools and a multimeter.

I had problems with a cheap 5V/1A adapter from Ebay too (freezing, no LAN, etc.) ...

[[File:ebay_cheap_5V_adaptor1.jpg|none|thumb]] [[File:ebay_cheap_5V_adaptor2.jpg|none|thumb]]

So I decided to make my own PSU with the popular 7805 - 5V/1A regulator.

'''The basic idea is shown on this schematic:'''

[[File:PSU_7805_v01.jpg|none]]

The resistors R1 and R2 serve as adjustment of the output voltage. The formula is: ''V out = V fixed + { R2 [ (V fixed/R1) + I standby] }'', where ''V fixed=5V'' and ''I standby=V fixed/R1'' (or just use 2.5mA). Value of C3 is not critical, I recommend 100-470uF. Same for C4, where for every 1A drawn, use 1000uF of capacity (and add some reserve). Don't forget to put C1 and C2 as close as possible to the regulator. And a heatsink for the regulator is necessary too.

I've used an old 9.5V/1500mA power supply from an printer as the source for this regulator, so no transformer and rectifier etc. was needed in my case. And it works just fine :)

'''Here is a schematic of a complete PSU including all components:'''

[[File:PSU_7805_v02.jpg|none]]

Starting from left, we have a transformer (protected by a fuse - F1) supplying about 8-12V AC at 2A (use what you have at home or what is cheaper to buy). Next is a rectifier (or 4 diodes / >1A) with caps (C7-C10, for filtering). Now we should have approx. <AC voltage> x 1.41 - so if we have a 9V transformer, it will be about 12.69V. The 7805 needs at least 2V more on the input than on the output (I use >3V to be sure) for stable regulation, and it can be up to 35V. Main filtering is ensured by C4 (use at least 1000uF for each 1A drawn), another filtering after the regulator is C3 (100-470uF). C1-C6 serve the 7805 for stable function and HF filtering. R1 and R2 adjust the voltage to 5.25V. D1 and D2 are for protection. A transil is used for over-voltage protection on the output, a 5V8 (5.8V reverse standoff voltage and approx. 6.2V breakdown voltage) - use P6KE6.8A or BZW06-5V8. For operation signaling a LED with R3 is used. You may use another fuse - F2 on the output.

'''Also if you prefer to fine-tune the output voltage, you may replace R2 with a small pot (trimmer) as shown here:'''

[[File:PSU_7805_v03.jpg|none]]

With this values adjustment from 5V to approx. 5.75V is possible.

For more info on the 7805 regulator, [http://www.google.com/search?q=7805+datasheet google the datasheet] and see the following resources.

Resource links:
[http://www.rason.org/Projects/regulator/regulator.htm The Adjustable Voltage Regulator], [http://www.circuitstoday.com/variable-power-supply-using-7805 Variable power supply using 7805]

~#Pinoccio

File:Ebay cheap 5V adaptor2.jpg

2012-07-29T14:04:20Z

Pinoccio: A cheap 5V/1A adaptor (Ebay) causing problems

A cheap 5V/1A adaptor (Ebay) causing problems

RPi 5V PSU construction

2012-07-29T14:03:30Z

Pinoccio: /* A 5V power supply for the Raspberry Pi - How To */

== A 5V power supply for the Raspberry Pi - How To ==

Due to various problems with the power supply for the RaspberryPi, a home made PSU might be a solution for some of you.
You will need some experience with construction of electronic circuits, appropriate tools and a multimeter.

I had problems with a cheap 5V/1A adapter from Ebay too (freezing, no LAN, etc.) ...

[[File:ebay_cheap_5V_adaptor1.jpg|none|thumb]] [[File:ebay_cheap_5V_adaptor2.jpg|none|tumb]]

So I decided to make my own PSU with the popular 7805 - 5V/1A regulator.

'''The basic idea is shown on this schematic:'''

[[File:PSU_7805_v01.jpg|none]]

The resistors R1 and R2 serve as adjustment of the output voltage. The formula is: ''V out = V fixed + { R2 [ (V fixed/R1) + I standby] }'', where ''V fixed=5V'' and ''I standby=V fixed/R1'' (or just use 2.5mA). Value of C3 is not critical, I recommend 100-470uF. Same for C4, where for every 1A drawn, use 1000uF of capacity (and add some reserve). Don't forget to put C1 and C2 as close as possible to the regulator. And a heatsink for the regulator is necessary too.

I've used an old 9.5V/1500mA power supply from an printer as the source for this regulator, so no transformer and rectifier etc. was needed in my case. And it works just fine :)

'''Here is a schematic of a complete PSU including all components:'''

[[File:PSU_7805_v02.jpg|none]]

Starting from left, we have a transformer (protected by a fuse - F1) supplying about 8-12V AC at 2A (use what you have at home or what is cheaper to buy). Next is a rectifier (or 4 diodes / >1A) with caps (C7-C10, for filtering). Now we should have approx. <AC voltage> x 1.41 - so if we have a 9V transformer, it will be about 12.69V. The 7805 needs at least 2V more on the input than on the output (I use >3V to be sure) for stable regulation, and it can be up to 35V. Main filtering is ensured by C4 (use at least 1000uF for each 1A drawn), another filtering after the regulator is C3 (100-470uF). C1-C6 serve the 7805 for stable function and HF filtering. R1 and R2 adjust the voltage to 5.25V. D1 and D2 are for protection. A transil is used for over-voltage protection on the output, a 5V8 (5.8V reverse standoff voltage and approx. 6.2V breakdown voltage) - use P6KE6.8A or BZW06-5V8. For operation signaling a LED with R3 is used. You may use another fuse - F2 on the output.

'''Also if you prefer to fine-tune the output voltage, you may replace R2 with a small pot (trimmer) as shown here:'''

[[File:PSU_7805_v03.jpg|none]]

With this values adjustment from 5V to approx. 5.75V is possible.

For more info on the 7805 regulator, [http://www.google.com/search?q=7805+datasheet google the datasheet] and see the following resources.

Resource links:
[http://www.rason.org/Projects/regulator/regulator.htm The Adjustable Voltage Regulator], [http://www.circuitstoday.com/variable-power-supply-using-7805 Variable power supply using 7805]

~#Pinoccio

File:Ebay cheap 5V adaptor1.jpg

2012-07-29T14:02:52Z

Pinoccio: A cheap 5V/1A adaptor (Ebay) causing problems

A cheap 5V/1A adaptor (Ebay) causing problems

RPi 5V PSU construction

2012-07-29T14:01:43Z

Pinoccio: /* Hardware & Peripherals */ 5V PSU construction HowTo

== A 5V power supply for the Raspberry Pi - How To ==

Due to various problems with the power supply for the RaspberryPi, a home made PSU might be a solution for some of you.
You will need some experience with construction of electronic circuits, appropriate tools and a multimeter.

I had problems with a cheap 5V/1A adapter from Ebay too (freezing, no LAN, etc.) ...

[[File:ebay_cheap_5V_adaptor1.jpg|none]] [[File:ebay_cheap_5V_adaptor2.jpg|none]]

So I decided to make my own PSU with the popular 7805 - 5V/1A regulator.

'''The basic idea is shown on this schematic:'''

[[File:PSU_7805_v01.jpg|none]]

The resistors R1 and R2 serve as adjustment of the output voltage. The formula is: ''V out = V fixed + { R2 [ (V fixed/R1) + I standby] }'', where ''V fixed=5V'' and ''I standby=V fixed/R1'' (or just use 2.5mA). Value of C3 is not critical, I recommend 100-470uF. Same for C4, where for every 1A drawn, use 1000uF of capacity (and add some reserve). Don't forget to put C1 and C2 as close as possible to the regulator. And a heatsink for the regulator is necessary too.

I've used an old 9.5V/1500mA power supply from an printer as the source for this regulator, so no transformer and rectifier etc. was needed in my case. And it works just fine :)

'''Here is a schematic of a complete PSU including all components:'''

[[File:PSU_7805_v02.jpg|none]]

Starting from left, we have a transformer (protected by a fuse - F1) supplying about 8-12V AC at 2A (use what you have at home or what is cheaper to buy). Next is a rectifier (or 4 diodes / >1A) with caps (C7-C10, for filtering). Now we should have approx. <AC voltage> x 1.41 - so if we have a 9V transformer, it will be about 12.69V. The 7805 needs at least 2V more on the input than on the output (I use >3V to be sure) for stable regulation, and it can be up to 35V. Main filtering is ensured by C4 (use at least 1000uF for each 1A drawn), another filtering after the regulator is C3 (100-470uF). C1-C6 serve the 7805 for stable function and HF filtering. R1 and R2 adjust the voltage to 5.25V. D1 and D2 are for protection. A transil is used for over-voltage protection on the output, a 5V8 (5.8V reverse standoff voltage and approx. 6.2V breakdown voltage) - use P6KE6.8A or BZW06-5V8. For operation signaling a LED with R3 is used. You may use another fuse - F2 on the output.

'''Also if you prefer to fine-tune the output voltage, you may replace R2 with a small pot (trimmer) as shown here:'''

[[File:PSU_7805_v03.jpg|none]]

With this values adjustment from 5V to approx. 5.75V is possible.

For more info on the 7805 regulator, [http://www.google.com/search?q=7805+datasheet google the datasheet] and see the following resources.

Resource links:
[http://www.rason.org/Projects/regulator/regulator.htm The Adjustable Voltage Regulator], [http://www.circuitstoday.com/variable-power-supply-using-7805 Variable power supply using 7805]

~#Pinoccio

RPi Hub

2012-07-29T12:49:18Z

Pinoccio: /* Hardware & Peripherals */ new article - PSU construction

{{TOC right}}{{Template:Hub_Flags}} 
{{Clear}}
'''The Raspberry Pi wiki pages on this site are a community work - the Raspberry Pi Foundation is not responsible for content on these pages.'''

==Now shipping to customers==
Premier Farnell and RS Components have started shipping to customers. Congratulations to those at the front of the queue!.

Work is ongoing to clear the backlog of orders, with both distributors now manufacturing them in serial production. Farnell/Element14 have stated that all people worldwide who ordered their Raspberry Pi through them on or before April 18th should receive theirs by the end of June.

Update: In the US, on 2012 July 24, Newark/Element 14 is quoting five '''weeks''' and Allied is still quoting 12 weeks.

See the [[RPi Buying Guide | Buying Guide]] on how to order one, or visit the [http://www.raspberrypi.org Raspberry Pi Foundation Home Page]

==About==
[[File:RpiFront.jpg|300px|thumb|right|The Rpi beta board (model B)]]

The Raspberry Pi (short: RPi or RasPi) is an ultra-low-cost credit-card sized Linux computer which was conceived with the primary goal of teaching computer programming to children. It was developed by the [http://www.raspberrypi.org Raspberry Pi Foundation], which is a UK registered charity (Registration Number 1129409). The foundation exists to promote the study of computer science and related topics, especially at school level, and to put the fun back into learning computing. The device is expected to have many other applications both in the developed and the developing world ([[RPi_Philosophy|Read more]]).

Raspberry Pi is manufactured and sold in partnership with the worldwide industrial distributors [http://www.farnell.com/ Premier Farnell/Element 14] and [http://rswww.com/ RS Components].

* You can get the latest news from the [http://www.raspberrypi.org Foundation Home Page], the [http://twitter.com/intent/user?screen_name=Raspberry_Pi Twitter Feed] or in the [http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/general-discussion/news-articles-and-blog-posts-about-raspberry-pi forums].
* For Raspberry Pi frequently asked questions see the [[R-Pi FAQ]] or the [http://www.raspberrypi.org/?page_id=8 Raspberry Pi Foundation's FAQ] page.
* Both manufacturing partners provide community areas for more technically focused discussions, articles, FAQs and related information:
:* Premier Farnell: [http://www.element14.com/community/groups/raspberry-pi?view=discussions Element 14 Raspberry Pi Group]
:* RS-Components: [http://www.designspark.com/theme/raspberrypi DesignSpark - Raspberry Pi]
* Products are RoHS, CE, FCC, CTick, CSA and WEEE compliant<ref>http://www.element14.com/community/docs/DOC-44828/l/raspberry-pi-safety-data-sheet</ref>. In common with all Electronic and Electrical products the Raspberry Pi should not be disposed of in household waste. Please contact the distributor from whom you purchased your Raspberry Pi device for details regarding WEEE in your country.
* Price: 25USD Model A, 35USD for Model B, excluding taxes, postage and packaging. For information about availability and shipping see the [[RPi Buying Guide | Buying Guide]].

===History===
* Confused about seeing different versions of the board? Visit the [[Rpi HardwareHistory | History of the Raspberry Pi Hardware]] for information about the past versions.

* RegHardware's very detailed analysis is [http://www.reghardware.com/2011/11/28/raspberry_pi/ well worth a read]. Wikipedia also has [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raspberry_Pi an entry].

* Russell Davis (aka forum admin ukscone) has a series of blog articles recording his perspective of the [http://russelldavis.org/2012/01/14/the-raspberry-pi-part-one/ Raspberry Pi story] in several parts from the beginning.

* You will often hear mention of the BBC Micro Computer when people talk about the purpose of the Raspberry Pi Foundation. See this article on the [http://www.reghardware.com/2011/11/30/bbc_micro_model_b_30th_anniversary/ history of the BBC Micro Computer].

* Here's a video from the Financial Times, with three different groups evaluating the raspberry pi: http://video.ft.com/v/1498254373001/Taste-testing-the-Raspberry-Pi (March 2012)

==Getting Started==
{| border="1" style="background:transparent;"
| style="width:33%; vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |
===[[Buying RPi |Buying Guide]]===
----
Where can I get one and for how much?
* Raspberry Pi can only be purchased via their official distribution partners - detailed information can be found on the [[Buying RPi | RPi Buying Guide]] page.

* Additional accessories, peripherals and merchandise will also be available through the [http://www.raspberrypi.com/ Raspberry Pi Shop].

| style="width:33%; vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |

===[[RPi Hardware Basic Setup | Basic Setup]]===
----
First little Raspberry Pi Steps...
* Ensure you have all the [[RPi Hardware Basic Setup#Typical_Hardware_You_Will_Need |equipment]] you need to go with your Raspberry Pi.
* Become familiar with the [[RPi Hardware Basic Setup#Connecting_Together | board layout and connect]] it ready for power up.
* If you have not been provided with a pre-setup SD card you will need to prepare one with your chosen [[RPi_Easy_SD_Card_Setup | Operating System distribution]]
* Note: On the Debian OS after you log in you need to type startx at the prompt to get a graphic desktop.

* '''Having problems? Try the [http://elinux.org/R-Pi_Troubleshooting Troubleshooting] page.'''

| style="width:33%; vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa;" |

===[[RPi Beginners | Beginners Guide]]===
----
You've just got your new Raspberry Pi device - what now?
* [[RPi Beginners | Beginners Guide]]

* Learn about the basics with the [http://h2g2.com/dna/h2g2/A13735596 H2G2 - Introducing the Raspberry Pi] entry.

* Get started with some basic projects and tutorials:
[http://www.youtube.com/user/RaspberryPiTutorials Raspberry Pi YouTube Tutorials] 
[http://www.youtube.com/user/RaspberryPiBeginners Another set of video tutorials]

[[RPi Tutorial Easy GPIO Hardware & Software | Easy GPIO Hardware & Software]] - in-progress at the moment
Example projects/tuts which can be linked from here
(or from within a beginners guide page perhaps):
Setup XBMC media centre
Programming tutorials (Liams YouTube etc)
Easy GPIO (when complete or similar thing).
Also links to some basic linux user guides.

* Take a look through the [[R-Pi_Hub#Community|Community]] section, which contains a range of beginner and advanced tutorials and guides, as well as groups to help you find like-minded developers.

|}

==Resources==
{| border="1" style="background:transparent;"

| style="width:33%; vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa; padding-left:5px;" |

===[[RPi Hardware|Hardware]] & [[RPi VerifiedPeripherals|Peripherals]]===
----

*The Model B is more advanced than the Model A - see [[RPi Hardware]].
*The RPi can be plugged into a [[RPi Screens|suitable TV or monitor]].
*The unit will support a range of [[RPi VerifiedPeripherals |devices, peripherals and accessories]].
*The [[Rpi Low-level peripherals| Low-level interfaces]] allow the use of optional [[RPi Expansion Boards|Expansion Boards]] in a wide range of projects.
*For more advanced issues including see [[RPi Advanced Setup|Advanced Setup]].
*[[RPi Peripherals|Setting up peripherals - examples/HowTos]]
*[[RaspberryPi Boards|List of boards and user feedback]]
*[[RPi 5V PSU construction|Power Supply construction - HowTo]]
| style="width:33%; vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa; padding-left:5px;" |

===[[Rpi_Software|Software]] & [[RPi_Distributions|OS Distributions]]===
----
The Raspberry Pi will run a range of OS Distributions and run a variety of software.
* See [[RPi Software|Software]] for an overview, and [[RPi Distributions|OS Distributions]] for supported operating system and pre-configured 'images'.
*Main OS distributions include [[RPi Distributions#Debian_ARM | Debian ARM]], [[RPi Distributions#Fedora | Fedora]], [[RPi Distributions#KidsRuby | KidsRuby]] and [http://puppylinux.org/wikka/Puppi Puppi] from Puppy Linux.
*Advice is also available if you want to [[Rpi_kernel_compilation|compile a kernel]] or [[RPi_Performance|test the Pi's performance]].
*The Raspberry Pi supports a wide range of [[RPi Programming|programming languages]], with many tutorials available.
*Information about installing specific [[RPi_applications|applications]] is available through the link.

| style="width:33%; vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa; padding-left:5px;" |

===[[RPi Documentation|Documentation]]===
----
Documentation relating to the Raspberry Pi can be found [[RPi Documentation|here]].

[[RPi DatasheetCategories|Frambozenier.org Documentation Project Datasheets]]

Example documents which can be linked from here (or sub page):
Official Datasheets
White Papers
User Manuals
Recommended books (perhaps)

=== R-Pi Troubleshooting ===

Head over to the [[R-Pi Troubleshooting|troubleshooting page]] for help fixing common problems.

=== R-Pi Model B 3D CAD files ===
Theses are various 3D CAD Versions in both RAR and ZIP.

* CATIA V5 RAR http://sdrv.ms/JqdhMb
* CATIA V5 ZIP http://sdrv.ms/LjyLGD
* ProE RAR http://sdrv.ms/KCv1hZ
* ProE ZIP http://sdrv.ms/KCvhxq
* STEP RAR http://sdrv.ms/KCvv7T
* STEP ZIP http://sdrv.ms/JMhv18
* SketchUp http://scc.jezmckean.com/item/581
|}

==Community==
{| border="1" style="background:transparent;"
| style="width:33%; vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa; padding-left:5px;" |

===[[RPi Projects |Projects]], [[RPi Guides |Guides]] & [[RPi Tutorials |Tutorials]]===
----
*An important source of information and guides is the [http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum Official Forum].
*Knowledgeable users may want to review and help out with the [[RPi Tasks |Tasks page]].
*Get started by following some of the many [[RPi Tutorials | Tutorials]].
*Common tasks and useful tips are available through the [[RPi Guides | Guides page]].
*Projects can be found, and added to, on the [[RPi Projects |Projects page]].

| style="width:33%; vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa; padding-left:5px;" |

===[[Rpi Education|Schools, Universities, Clubs & Groups]]===
----
*The Raspberry Pi Foundation's aims include encouraging education. Several groups including [http://www.computingatschool.org.uk/ Computing At School] aim to bring Computing Science back into schools.
*Go to the [[Rpi Education|Education Page]] to add your project and find helpful links.

| style="width:33%; vertical-align:top; border:1px solid #aaa; padding-left:5px;" |
===[[RPi Community |Supporting Communities]]===
----
The [[RPi Community |Raspberry Pi Community]] is steadily growing:
*[http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum The Official Raspberry Pi Forum]

*[http://www.element14.com/community/groups/raspberry-pi?view=discussions Element 14 Raspberry Pi Group], community site of Premier Farnell

*[http://www.designspark.com/theme/raspberrypi DesignSpark], community site of RS-Components

*[http://www.frambozenbier.org/index.php/ 'Frambozenbier' (Raspberry Pi Homebrew)]

*[http://www.raspberrymod.com/ Raspberrymod] and [http://www.raspberrypiforums.com/forum RPiforums] Un-Official Raspberry Pi Discussion Boards

*[http://www.raspberrypi-spanish.es Non-official community of Raspberry Pi in spanish language]

*[http://www.worldofpi.com/ World Of Pi] A forum based on all things Raspberry Pi.

*[[RPi Community Magazine]] - User contributed eMagazine, get involved!

*[[RaspberryPi Osdev]] - Hardware specific OS-development community, sitting in freenode.net#raspberrypi-osdev.

|}

==About the RPi Wiki==

'''Do not be afraid to add your bit, content is vital for the wiki to function.'''

[[File:Rasp_turn_around.gif|200px|thumb|right|A 3D rendering of the Raspberry Pi logo by forum user Antario. [http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/projects-and-collaboration-general/raspberry-pi-3d-logo-animation Source]]]
This wiki is '''open''' for the community. You are encouraged to sign up and add your own projects, guides and correct anything within it. It is important that users like you continue to add to and grow this wiki, that way others will be able to come and do the same making the wiki a valuable resource. See [[Help:Editing | Help Editing The Wiki]] and the [[Special:Upload | Upload File]] link (on the left sidebar) to reference images.
Have a look at our [[RPi Wiki Best Practice|Guidelines]] and then you are free to go !

=== Translations ===

The wiki is being translated into several languages, some of which can be seen on the hub banner above. Current languages include:

* English: [[R-Pi Hub]]
* French: [[FR:R-Pi Hub]]
* German: [[DE:R-Pi Hub]]
* Greek: [[EL:R-Pi Hub]]
* Hungarian: [[HU:R-Pi Hub]]
* Japanese: [[JP:R-Pi_Hub]]
* Polish: [[PL:R-Pi_Hub]]
* Portugese: [[pt-BR:Raspberry Pi Board]]
* Romanian: [[RO:R-Pi_Hub]]
* Russian: [[RU:RaspberryPiBoard]]
* Українська: [[UA:R-Pi Hub]]
* Spanish: [[ES:R-Pi Hub]]
* Italiano: [[IT:R-Pi Hub]]
* Chinese:[[CH:R-Pi Hub]]
* Hebrew:[[HE:R-Pi Hub]]

Any help translating would be greatly appreciated. Thank you to those who have already contributed!

===Admins/Contributors===

Please see the [[Talk:R-Pi_Hub|Talk]] page for outstanding issues and discussions regarding the RPi Hub and related pages. 
Also , have look at [[RPi Wiki Best Practice]]. You can discuss the recommendations
[[Talk:RPi Wiki Best Practice | here ]] .

To share your thoughts, comments, thanks and interesting articles, see our [[RPi Visitor Book |Visitor Book]].

''Big thanks to elinux.org and their groups for the wiki space and content from which these pages have been grown.''

=References=
<references/>

{{Template:Raspberry Pi}}
[[Category:RaspberryPi]]

RaspberryPi Boards

2012-07-29T10:32:10Z

Pinoccio: /* Hardware versions/revisions */

File:RPi-BS1219-Back Pinoccio.jpg

2012-07-29T10:24:15Z

Pinoccio:

File:RPi-BS1219-Front Pinoccio.jpg

2012-07-29T10:22:26Z

Pinoccio:

RaspberryPi Boards

2012-07-29T10:19:27Z

Pinoccio: /* Hardware versions/revisions */ Pinoccio's board