RPi VerifiedPeripherals

A note about this page: For USB devices, please specify if they required a powered hub

Power Usage Notes
Model B Hardware Revisions and USB Power limits Hardware Revision 1.0 The original Model B board had current limiting polyfuses which limited the power output of each USB port to approximately 100 mA. USB devices using more than 100 mA had to be connected via a powered hub. The Raspberry Pi's PSU was chosen with a power budget of 700 mA of which 200 mA were assigned to the USB ports, so the Raspberry Pi's (poly)fuses were designed only for devices up to 100 mA, and typical 140 mA polyfuses will have as much as 0.6 volt across them when drawing currents near the 100 mA limit. As a consequence the USB ports are only directly suitable for "single current unit" USB devices which, according to USB specifications, are designed to work with just 4.4 Volt. Not only do non single current unit devices draw more current (causing greater Voltage drops, and greater stress on the fuses), they also might require 4.75 Volt to work.

Model B Hardware Revision 2.0 and Revision 1.0 with ECN0001 change This had the polyfuses removed, removing the 100 mA current limitation for each USB port (but leaving the main fuse F3 intact). Users should still ensure their power supply can power the Raspberry Pi and the USB peripherals. Revision 2.0 was released in August 2012. Because the polyfuses have been removed, back feeding of the PI, by applying power via its normal USB output, can damage D 17 if triggered by an over-voltage, and so lead to consequential over-heating. This can be discovered by melts, scorching, smoke or worse.

Linux Driver Issues
Shortly after the Raspberry Pi was released it was confirmed that there were a number of issues with the Linux USB driver for the SMSC95xx chip. These included problems with USB 1.x peripherals that use split transactions, a fixed number of channels (causing problems with Kinect) and the way the ARM processor handles the SMSC95xx interrupts.  A large number of fixes were included in the 2012-08-19-Wheezy-raspbian Linux image.

Powered USB Hubs
This section has been moved to a separate page. See RPi Powered USB Hubs

USB Remotes

 * The FLIRC USB dongle allows the use of any remote control with your Raspberry Pi. Configure the device on your desktop PC, then simply plug into your Pi for a perfect media center companion. Available from Pi Supply and The Pi Hut


 * ASUS TV FM Remote IR - ID 3353:3713 - works. Receiver connected to an USB Hub. Tested with archlinux in X. It works also as pointer (pressing "Toggle" button)


 * ATI Remote Wonder (X10 Wireless Technology, Inc. X10 Receiver) — ID 0bc7:0004 — appears as a joystick-like 2 button mouse and a 0-9 keypad without drivers on console and X.


 * Logitech Wireless Touch Keyboard K400 with Built-In Multi-Touch Touchpad (920-003070) - keyboard and touchpad work. Have not verified multi-touch features.


 * iPazzport mini 2.4 GHz wireless keyboard and touchpad.


 * Pan.Code D1000 - 2.4GHz Wireless keyboard and touchpad.


 * PKB 1800 Wireless Smart Pad ad Mini Keyboard. The pad works as a mouse, but not multi touch features. The keyboard works.


 * Riitek RT-MWK01 Rii Wireless 2.4 GHz Keyboard-mouse Combo, also known as Digicom WKEYPE01, and Prodige Nanox. Working perfectly, just plug & play.


 * Tranksung TS-Y150 USB RF Keyboard and air mouse (B)


 * Exo Ultra U12-41310 Mini Keyboard Bluetooth Adapter, Touchpad, Laser Pointer, Presentation & Multimedia Controls work perfectly, but it needs a little love and config for make it work.Exo Installer script

USB Keyboards
This section has been moved to a separate page. See RPi USB Keyboards

USB Mouse devices
This section has been moved to a separate page. See RPi USB Mouse devices

USB Real Time Clocks
Device information at http://www.cymbet.com/pdfs/DS-72-22.pdf Code to access the RTC from Linux: https://github.com/owendelong/Cymbet-RTC Does not require a powered hub.
 * Cymbet
 * Cymbet CBC-EVAL-06 USB Real Time Clock (FT2232 to SPI to RV-2123)

USB Wi-Fi Adapters
This section has been moved to a separate page. See RPi USB Wi-Fi Adapters

USB Bluetooth adapters
This section has been moved to a separate page. See RPi USB Bluetooth adapters

USB Ethernet adapters
This section has been moved to a separate page. See RPi USB Ethernet adapters

Huawei

 * E1750 installation instructions
 * E173
 * E1820 Works on Raspbian with Sakis3G
 * E220 installation instructions
 * E353 HiLink Works on Raspbian
 * E160 (AT commands only)
 * E169, E620, E800, (12d1:1001) - works on Raspbian Wheezy, details here
 * E303 - works with Raspbian Wheezy 2015-02-16 out of the box, will be recognized as network-adapter [ethX]. usb_modeswitch may be used to configure it as a serial modem, so that tools like sakis3g (mobile connection) and gammu (SMS) have a better control over it (note: be sure to download a version of Gammu newer than 1.37.0 so that it is fully supported)

Sierra Wireless

 * AirCard 250u works with wvdial/network manager
 * AirCard 320u (0f3d:68aa) works in WWAN mode, driver provided by the kernel. Tested on Arch.
 * Kernel version 3.10 has a bug that causes the WWAN interface to never be in RUNNING state (no carrier). Use 3.6 kernel instead.
 * AT command guide can be found here
 * for GPS to work you have to enable it. First, setup the modem (guide here) and after that enable NMEA output by passing nmea=1 parameter to the sierra kernel module. Warning! Enabling NMEA output may cause the modem to drop connections / restart itself. This is probably related to higher power drain. This may not be the issue when a powered hub is used.
 * 307 Works fine with Sakis3G script. The connection LED does not change its state after establishing a connection but the same behaviour on a normal linux system.
 * AirCard 340u (Netgear/ATT Beam) works with latest GobiNet/GobiSerial code on Raspbian and 3.10.25+ kernel. Requires firmware update from Netgear to disable Windows 8 support and make it autoconnect. guide here.

ZTE

 * ZTE MF190S
 * ZTE MF626 Works fine with Sakis3G script. You can use force it to ALWAYS be in modem mode (See here: http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/1205127 ), or use usb-modeswitch ( as described here http://blog.christophersmart.com/2009/05/21/telstra-nextg-working-with-mf626-usb-modem/ )
 * ZTE MF628 Tested with Sakis3g using --noprobegsm, use usb_modeswitch to get ID 19d2:0031.
 * ZTE MF70 (Telstra 3G USB + Wi-FI) Tested. Automatically appears as ethernet device. No usb_modeswitch required. Use DHCP to acquire IP address/DNS/Gateway etc. To configure modem, use web browser and visit http://192.168.0.1/
 * ZTE Rocket MF591 - Tested with T-mobile network and Model B+ running Raspbian with usb-modeswitch and Sakis3G script. (Followed guide to work: http://www.instructables.com/id/Raspberry-Pi-as-a-3g-Huawei-E303-wireless-Edima/?ALLSTEPS)

Others
Tested on Raspbian and Archlinux. Detected as 230d:0001. Works with cdc_acm driver. Install usb_modeswitch. There are 2 "com ports"( /dev/ttyACM0 and /dev/ttyACM1 ). Tested with Network Manager.Works also perfectly with SAKYS3G tools  (!! led is always off !!) and wvdial. A working wvdial.conf: http://ubuntuforums.org/showpost.php?p=10361881&postcount=28. (for example for Vodafone IT, replace Init3 with this: Init3 = AT+CGDCONT=1,"IP","web.omnitel.it"   and replace line Modem = /dev/ttyUSB0  with Modem = /dev/ttyACM1 )  and run with   wvdial voda.
 * Franklin U600 from Sprint / VirginMobile
 * Use usb_modeswitch and vendor 0x1fac and product 0x0150/0x0151
 * Digicom Internet Key 7.2 HSUPA MU372-L01
 * Vodafone MD950 (1dbc:0005) - is working on RPi (Raspbian Wheezy) but not out of the box, more details here.

USB Sound Cards
You will usually want the  package for sound. In the Debian image for Raspberry Pi (and possibly other distributions) USB sound cards are prevented from loading as the first sound card, which can be an annoyance if it's the only device you have. To disable this behaviour edit  and comment out the last line;. If you are not user pi you may need to add your username to the audio group thus:  (user pi usually belongs to this group anyway).


 * Creative
 * Sound Blaster Play!
 * Daffodil
 * USB Sound Adapter US01. Tested with low-cost headphone/microphone set via audacity (See notes at CPM-Spectre-Pi...DaffodilUSBSoundAdapter).
 * Edirol
 * UA-1A
 * GWCtech
 * AA1570 USB 7.1 Sound Card (aka Conrad AA 1570 7.1 SoundBox) - playback works fine, Recording stutters unless dwc_otg.speed=1 is set
 * Hercules
 * Gamesurround Muse XL (Pocket LT3)
 * Hewlett Packard
 * Hewlett Packard (HP) Premium Digital Headset, Model No: HUD-02. It supports both audio out and audio in. Works in Audacity.  Recprding volume is quiet even with recording mixer level turned way up.  Additional post-mixer amplification of audio-in is recommended, if possible.
 * Kingwin
 * USB-3DSA (Both audio out/in work, lsusb lists as "C-Media USB Headphone Set")
 * Logilink
 * UA0053 USB Soundcard with Virtual 3D Soundeffects LogiLink
 * Logitech
 * Logitech G930 Wireless Gaming Headset with 7.1 Surround Sound (stereo works with ALSA, have not tried 7.1 Surround Sound)
 * NuForce uDAC-2
 * NuForce uDAC-2 Headphone Amplifier and USB DAC
 * Plantronics
 * Plantronics Stereo USB Adapter -01 (works with ALSA) (shows up in lsusb as 0d8c:000c C-Media Electronics, Inc. Audio Adapter)
 * SpeedLink
 * VIGO USB Soundcard, black - Device ID: 0d8c:000e ("C-Media Electronics, Inc. Audio Adapter"). Working, but on Raspbian 3.6.11 it fills up kern.log with "cm109_urb_irq_callback: urb status -71" messages. To prevent this, you can insert `:msg, contains, "cm109_urb_irq_callback" ~´ as first rule into /etc/rsyslog.conf.
 * Terratec
 * Aureon Dual USB (not with USB high speed; add dwc_otg.speed=1 to /boot/cmdline.txt, but that will slow down all USB transfers)
 * Texas Instruments PCM2704
 * USB DAC PCM2704 Decoder

Databases of supported sound cards

 * http://wiki.linuxaudio.org/wiki/current_audio_gear
 * http://wiki.linuxmusicians.com/doku.php?id=hardware_matrix

Class compliant USB sound cards
Any USB1.1 audio interface that is class compliant should work with Linux, same goes for USB2.0 interfaces that adhere to the current USB audio standards. There are some interfaces that are supported in Linux while they do not comply to the standards because specific quirks have been added to the USB Linux drivers. To verify if your interface is supported search for a manual of your interface and check if it needs drivers to run under Windows/Mac. If the manual explicitely mentions no drivers are needed the interface is almost surely a class compliant device. When in doubt check the aforementioned databases.

Troubleshooting
If you encounter problems setting up your USB soundcard check the RPi Wiki article in the linuxaudio.org Wiki: http://wiki.linuxaudio.org/wiki/raspberrypi


 * Bulleted list item

USB IR Receivers

 * The FLIRC USB dongle allows the use of any remote control with your Raspberry Pi. Configure the device on your desktop PC, then simply plug into your Pi for a perfect media center companion. Available from Pi Supply, The Pi Hut and Buy Raspberry Pi Australia


 * SMK Manufacturing, Inc. eHome Infrared Receiver (Works out of the box with OpenELEC)

USB Radio devices

 * FM Radio
 * ADS InstantFM Music - FM radio tuner works fine under Debian.

USB TV Tuners and DVB devices

 * August
 * DVB-T205, based on rtl2832u chipset, worked with this driver on older 3.2 kernel. Couldn't get same device working reliably on current kernel. (On the older 3.2 kernel it worked with Saorview (Irish DTT service), both HD & SD.)
 * Derek?
 * TV28T v2 USB DVB-T & RTL-SDR Receiver, RTL2832U & R820T Tuner, MCX Input. DVB-T works with OpenElec 4.2.1 connected to the PiHub, tvheadend backend + frontend, finds all expected, non-encrypted channels in the south of Germany. I did not try to use the remote.
 * DVBSky
 * Mystique SaTiX-S2 Sky USB: Scanning/watching SD and HD works via vdr and streamdev plugin, watching on the Raspberry Pi directly is laggy as hell. DVB-USB and I2C support must be enabled in the kernel. Needs drivers/firmware from here.
 * Sundtek
 * Sundtek MediaTV Digital Home
 * Sundtek MediaTV Pro
 * Sundtek SkyTV Ultimate
 * DVB-C, DVB-T, DVB-S/S2: digital TV works, streaming to Windows / Linux is no problem. Easy installation English
 * Hauppauge
 * Hauppauge NOVA-T Stick (Revision 70xxx) DiBcom DiB0700 chipset, requires powered hub.
 * Hauppauge NOVA-TD Stick (Revision 52xxx) DiBcom DiB0700 chipset, requires powered hub.
 * Hauppauge WinTV-HVR-1950 (tested analog tuner with omxplayer, tested Digital OTA with MythTV)
 * Hauppauge WinTV-HVR-950Q (tested Digital OTA with TVHeadend in Raspbian)
 * K-World
 * K-World UB499-2T Dual DVB-T USB Tuner. IT9137 chipset. With no other USB devices connected Raspberry Pi can just about power this stick. IR and supplied remote work with XBMC.
 * Technisat
 * Technisat_SkyStar_USB_HD. Instructions: http://www.linuxtv.org/wiki/index.php/Technisat_SkyStar_USB_HD Used the Raspberry Pi to receive and redirect it via network to another host. Didn't try to play back the stream on the Raspberry Pi itself. Tested with Astra 19.2E radio and SD-TV channels
 * TECHNOTREND
 * TT-TVStick CT2-4400 USB Fernbedienung rev2. DVB-T works with OpenElec 4.9.4 BETA connected to the PiHub, tvheadend backend + frontend, finds all expected, non-encrypted channels in the south of Germany. DVB-C also works, finds around >30 TVs and >100 radio stations. I did not try to use the remote, nor did I listen to any radio station. TV works, SD channels are ok, HD channels jitter. tvheadend backend crashes often within OpenElec 4.9.4 BETA, but restarts, so still buggy but looks good(BETA!). It did not work out of the box with the stable OpenElec 4.2.1.
 * Terratec
 * Terratec H7. Tested DVB-C with dvbv5 tools, part of v4l-utils, under Fedora 18 Remix and latest (April, 14 2013) DVB Kernel stack/drivers.
 * Generic
 * DVB-T USB Dongle (Silver casing), based on AF9015 chipset.
 * DVB-T USB Dongle, based on RTL2832 FC12 (HD/SD), IR was detected, but it is not tested.
 * HDTV USB DVB-T dongle, based on IT9135. This tuner comes in two revisions. Revision is printed on PCB.
 * rev. 1.0; should work with 3.2+ kernel, need confirmation.
 * rev. 2.0; works with kernel 3.6.11, without a powered hub. This tuner also requires a firmware (dvb-usb-it9135-02.fw) which can be downloaded from this page. It's in Hungarian, so google translate or equivalent is recommended. The remote also works. According to this post, there may be issues on some software configurations when using omxplayer.

USB Video / Frame grabbers

 * EasyCAP DC60 (STK1160 chip) - works out of the box for older versions of Raspbian. If you're getting grey stripes see this tutorial
 * EasyCAP (UTV007 Fushicai chip) - works after driver compilation - see instructions at this link. remember to use older Raspbian version.
 * Hauppage HVR 1900

USB Webcams
This section has been moved to a separate page. See RPi USB Webcams

USB GPS devices
sudo killall gpsd; sudo gpsd /dev/ttyUSB0 -F /var/run/gpsd.sock
 * Columbus
 * Columbus V-800 (MediaTek (MTKII) 3329 GPS chipset) - does not require powered USB hub. Works on Wheezy (using gpsd & gpsd-clients)
 * Royaltek
 * Royaltek RGM 2000 SiRF2 using the included serial (TTL) to USB - converter (Prolific pl2303-chip)
 * Garmin
 * Garmin eTrex Vista HCx: It works, but it may draw too much power. To get it working (software part): https://wiki.openstreetmap.org/wiki/USB_Garmin_on_GNU/Linux
 * GlobalSat
 * GlobalSat BU-353 Does not require a powered hub, works fine when directly plugged into the Raspberry Pi. On Raspian, requires the gpsd and gpsd-client packages. For some reason, the gpsd daemon does not always start correctly on boot. You may need to do something like the following to manually restart it:
 * GlobalSat BU-353-S4 supports two protocols: NMEA, and SiRF v4. NMEA works fine, but SiRF v4 isn't compatible with "gpsd"'s SiRF v3 interpreter, resulting in a greatly reduced data rate (as low as four location fixes per hour).  To keep "gpsd"'s autoconfiguration from putting the receiver in SiRF mode, you'll need to pass the "-b" flag when starting "gpsd".


 * Wintec
 * WBT-200: No problem on Debian
 * Holux
 * Holux M-215: Works fine on Arch, uses Silicon Labs CP210x RS232 serial adaptor driver
 * Bluenext
 * Bluenext BN903S: No problem on Debian image (19-04-2012).


 * U blox NEO 6 - works well, connects via GPIO (serial console). Info here and here.

USB UART and USB to Serial (RS-232) adapters
A USB UART adapter is used to access the serial console of the Raspberry Pi from a development host such as a laptop or desktop PC. The USB end connects to the PC and the UART header end connects to the USB. While it is possible to connect the USB end to another Raspberry Pi, this configuration has not been tested unless explicitly mentioned against an individual entry below.

Working USB to Serial Adapters

 * FTDI (Future Technology Devices International Limited)
 * FT232 chip based adapters works for some people, but others find it hangs Linux when the port is opened. The module is ftdi_sio.
 * FT232R USB UART works out of the box between Raspbian Wheezy and OS X Mavericks (Product-ID: 0x6001, Manufacturer-ID: 0x0403, Maximal Speed: 12 MBit/s, Maximal Power Consumption: 90 mA).
 * FT2232D dual RS232/FIFO works (used in various JTAG devices)


 * Belkin
 * F5U409 Works OOTB; does not support speeds above 115,200, so you can't use it for DMX or other high-speed protocols.


 * Prolific
 * PL2303 chip based adaptors works fine on latest Debian tested with minicom, gtkterm and screen.

A USB to Serial (RS-232) adapter is used the other way around, ie. the USB end connects to the Raspberry Pi and the RS-232 end (DSUB-9 or DSUB-25 pin) to the other device which may be another computer, (old) modem or printer, or some electronic test equipment.


 * "Best Connectivity" (Possibly also sold under the "Newlink HQ" or "Kenable HQ" labels)
 * FG-U1232-PL2 Based upon the Prolific PL2303X chipset and listed by lsusb as . Appears as , and requires the user to be a member of the dialout group (which pi is for Raspbian Wheezy). Initially tested using an old RS Datalinker setup in "loopback" mode via microcom upto 9600 baud, and gtkterm after installing that from source code. All handshake lines toggled as expected and no characters were lost. Subsequently gtkterm was used to check bi-directional communication with an ancient brother EP44 electronic typewriter (as a printer/dumb terminal) at 1200 baud. Signal lines were again monitored with the Datalinker.
 * "PL2303HX USB to RS232 TTL Converter Adapter Module" on dx.com: http://dx.com/p/pl2303hx-usb-to-rs232-ttl-converter-adapter-module-164590
 * Based on the Prolific PL-2303HX chipset. Listed by lsusb as ID 067b:2303 Prolific Technology, Inc. PL2303 Serial Port. Appears as /dev/ttyUSBX with GUID dialout so your user has to be in that group. If not, sudo usermod -a -G dialout yourusername will add your user to the dialout group. Works great with screen /dev/ttyUSBX 115200 to connect from your workstation to your RPi.

Problem USB to Serial Adapters
HL-340
 * CH340 Chipset - Currently not supported by RPi but there is a patch of kernel code here, but it is for a 2.X kernel. If you find you have bought one of these, then it may work under Windows, but as of writing there is no support for RPi. Otherwise you can have a go at getting the patch to work.

Working USB Multi-Card Readers

 * US Robotics USB 3.0 All-In-One Multi-Format Card Reader (Product # USR8420) Accepts 5 cards simultaneously
 * SD/MMC + MS/MS PRO or DUO/DUO PRO + CF/MD + SM + SD/MMC or MS/MS PRO. Useful for backing up cards containing other OS Distros


 * Generic (Nintendo branded)
 * identified as "14cd:8123 Super Top SD MMC Reader" (B)

Problem USB Multi-Card Readers

 * Generic
 * Card reader based on NEODIO ND3260-LD chip, identified as "0aec:3260 Neodio Technologies Corp. 7-in-1 Card Reader", fails after a few seconds with all access lights blinking. (B)

Working USB Smart-Card Readers

 * Vasco DIGIPASS 905. Works out of the box without any extra drivers. Does not require powered USB hub.

Joysticks / Joypads

 * Microsoft
 * Xbox360 Controller (045e:028e): works. Tested with archlinux, connected to an USB Hub, used as "mouse" in X, package xf86-input-joystick


 * Logitech
 * Dual Action: works, connected directly to the Pi.


 * Ion
 * Go Pad: works. Tested on Raspbian Wheezy (release 2014-01-07), connected to on-board USB port (Model B rev. 2).


 * VZTEC
 * USB Double Shock Controller Game Pad Joystick VZ-GA6002: works. Tested on RetroPie V2.3, connected to on-board USB port (Model B+).

Numpads

 * Conceptronic / Holtek
 * USB numpad (04d9:a02a): works. Tested with archlinux, connected to an USB Hub
 * Speedlink SL-7430-SGY
 * USB numpad (04d9:1603, HT82M99E Holtek chip inside): works. Tested with Raspbian “wheezy”
 * GreenAsia Inc. (USB 18-Key Silicone Numeric Keypad)
 * USB numpad (0e8f:0022): works. Tested with Raspbian “wheezy”

USB to Parallel Port/Printer Adapters

 * Prolific
 * PL2305 Chipset with Centronics 36w connector. Originally purchased for use with a netbook and connected to an old Canon BJC-250 printer. Worked fine under RISC OS Raspberry Pi with its in-built BJC-250 driver. Could not install the CUPS drivers etc. for Wheezy-Raspbian initially, but was able to do so for Wheezy-armel. Once I'd updated/upgraded Wheezy all was fine.(See notes at CPM-Spectre-Pi...USBtoParPrntAdapter for more info. and also a CUPS/Wheezy installation guide)

USB to IDE/SATA

 * JMicron Technology
 * JM20337 USB to SATA/PATA Combo Bridge (152d:2338) - works on Raspbian and Arch. The hard drive requires an external power supply.
 * Nippon Labs
 * 2.5" SATA HDD USB Adapter with silicone HDD sleeve. Model: USB-ADT-25SATA. Works on powered Hub, not directly to Raspberry Pi. Built-in "Y" power adapter. Does work direct on some ver2.0 boards if used with 5.25 power supply, or Y adapter

CAN Bus

 * PEAK-System (www.peak-system.com)
 * PCAN-USB using the driver (kernel module) from http://www.peak-system.com/fileadmin/media/linux/index.htm

Home automation

 * Tellstick (www.telldus.com), installation instructions
 * Depends on libftdi1

Weather station

 * Oregon Scientific WMRS-200 : Work out of the box (tested with Raspbian & wview)

One-Wire

 * PCsensor
 * USB9097 (1a86:7523): works out of the box but issue with LAN after a few hours, no problem after a firmware update. Identify's as "QinHeng Electronics HL-340 USB-Serial adapter" Tested with raspbian/wheezy + domotiga & digitemp directly to USB port & 4 sensors connected via a '1-wire hub'. Claims to be 'fully replace DS9097, DS9490 of MAXIM'. Simple and cheap solution to measure temperature.

Touch Screen

 * ACER T230H touch screen This link is Broken
 * USB TS identifies as "Quanta Computer, Inc. Optical dual-touch panel", module hid_quanta
 * Seems to draw over 200 mA from USB!
 * SainSmart 3.2 touch screen
 * 320*240
 * 3.2 inch
 * SSD1289:240 RGB x 320 TFT Drive
 * Video: Raspberry Pi with a 3.2" TFT with Touch control
 * Tutorial: Raspberry Pi with a 3.2″ TFT with Touch control

Floppy Disk Drive

 * Samsung USB Floppy Drive SFD-321U/HP
 * I suppose a floppy drive might be considered exotic nowadays!
 * LSUSB lists it as Samsung Electro-Mechanics Co. Floppy Disk Drive
 * Only tried connected to a powered USB hub, as the drive is labelled 5 V at 0.5 A on a Raspberry Pi running Debian Wheezy.
 * tail -f /var/log/syslog looking for mount device when plugged in, came up as SDA in testing.
 * sudo mkdir /media/floppy
 * sudo mount /dev/sda /media/floppy
 * Contents of floppy now available in /media/floppy
 * To remove drive, ensure no sessions have the floppy directory as the current working directory.
 * sudo umount /media/floppy
 * Y-E Data model HU-35EF
 * Requires a powered hub and manual mounting/unmounting like the Samsung drive above.

USB Missile Launcher

 * USB Missile Launcher / Rocket Launcher sold in UK by Marks and Spencer, but it is also sold under a range of other names.
 * USB ID 1130:0202 Tenx Technology, Inc. Use apt-get install pymissile (python code) and there is C code at usbmissile from Source Forge

USB Docking Stations

 * StarTech USB 3.0 to Dual 2.5"/3.5" SATA HDD Dock (SATDOCK2U3GB)
 * This is an externally powered dual sata HDD docking station, which has USB2.0 compatibility with the Raspberry Pi.
 * Tested with latest Raspbmc and Debian Wheezy Raspbian, 3.1.9+ #168


 * Icy Box USB 3.0 to Dual 2.5"/3.5" SATA HDD Dock (IB-120StU3)
 * Externally powered dual HDD dock, USB 2 compatible.
 * Tested with Slackware ARM 14.0 and drives in both slots, just show up as separate SCSI disks.

USB RFID Reader

 * Unbranded 125 kHz EM4100 RFID reader from eBay sellers (< £7), the one with a Windows logo on (easily scratches off for Linux users).
 * Initially would not work when plugged in directly to Raspberry Pi. Worked when connected via an unpowered Trust hub. Worked after Raspberry Pi was modified with 10K resistors over the USB polyfuses (warranty invalidated). Probably would work fine with powered hub.
 * Sends a 10 digit string to current window or console as if it was a keyboard. Can be captured independently of keyboard using Linux event interface (/dev/input), but the kernel in current distributions does not have CONFIG_INPUT_EVDEV selected so kernel rebuild is necessary.

JTAG

 * FTDI2232D dual RS232/FIFO based JTAG (e.g. SheevaPlug JTAGKey USB-ID 9e88:9e8f)
 * works using the Raspberry Pi as a development host

Tinkerforge Bricks and Bricklets (http://www.tinkerforge.com)

 * Read out sensors and control motors over USB with open source hardware.
 * Tested with the brickd_armhf.deb from [here] with:
 * sudo apt-get install libusb-1.0-0 libudev0
 * wget http://download.tinkerforge.com/tools/brickd/linux/brickd_linux_latest_armhf.deb
 * sudo dpkg -i brickd_linux_latest_armhf.deb
 * Tested languages: C/C++, C# (mono), Free Pascal (Lazarus), Java, PHP, Python, Ruby (see [here] for installation).
 * If a big amount of Bricks is used, a powered USB Hub may be required.

Thermometers

 * TEMPer1 (id: 0c45:7401)
 * works out of the box on raspbian/wheezy with pcsensors library

Futronic
Single finger scanners Futronic FS80 and FS88 tested - they work well with Raspbian. Example of captured fingerprint here: [[Media:Futronic_fingerprint_example.png]]

To make it working deploy the Futronic libScanAPI on your Raspberry Pi (example code and instructions included): [[Media:ScanApi_armlinux_RPi_gnueabihf_gcc472_update1.zip ‎]]

UPDATE: Futronic has released an updated API. This works with their newer 'H' model scanners (updated CMOS). This means the FS80H and FS81 (the OEM version of the FS80H) will now work with the RPi (I tested this myself). [[Media:ScanAPI_v823_armlinux_libusb0.1.12-bcm2708_gnueabihf_raspbian-472.zip]]

PS2 / AT to USB Converters
Note that although the adapter might work, PS/2 keyboards were not designed to be low power USB devices, so they might not meet the requirement to work with considerable lowered supply voltage (4.4 volt) provided by the USB ports of the raspberry PI. These keyboards should work when powered by a powered hub.
 * Unbranded active converter known as the "blue cube". Based on the Cypress CY7C63723C 8 bit RISC. Please see http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=PS2-to-USB+adapters for more information.

Tested PS2/AT keyboards

All above tested with the famous "blue cube" on a powered USB hub.


 * IBM Model F (please note requires an additional AT to PS2 converter)
 * Dell AT101w
 * Northgate Ominikey Ultra T (please note requires an additional AT to PS2 converter)


 * 04d9:1400 Holtek Semiconductor, Inc. PS/2 keyboard + mouse controller
 * Working: Ipex RT215KTW PS/2 keyboard
 * Not working: HP SK-2502 PS/2 keyboard (gets power, but it does not init - three LEDs remain permanently lit. Keyboard + Holtek converter work on a Linux PC, although this keyboard doesn't work with some native PS/2 ports.)

Power Switches
The Raspberry Pi does not have a power on/off switch as standard (it does have a reset switch), however some add on boards have been developed to cater for this need.


 * The Pi Supply Switch is an  on/off power switch for the Raspberry Pi which includes a hard on and off switch and a soft shutdown switch for the Pi, making it easy to manage power on your Pi. They were recently successfully funded on Kickstarter.
 * RemotePi Board
 * The RemotePi Board is an intelligent infrared remote controlled power switch add-on board for the Raspberry Pi. It allows to switch power on and off using any button (configurable in learning mode) of an existing standard IR remote. Power is only cut after notifying the OS and giving it time to shut-down. It is mainly intended to remote control (using LIRC) and power off/on a mediacenter system. i.e OpenELEC, Raspbmc, XBian, RasPlex, Raspbian. The board is compatible to simple GPIO IR receiver and piggy backs onto the Raspberry Pi, no soldering required. For more information click here.

Power adapters
The Raspberry Pi uses a standard Micro USB (type B) power connector, which runs at 5 V. Generally you can use a MicroUSB to USB cable and then either power the Raspberry Pi directly from your main computers USB ports (if they provide enough power), or by using a USB to Mains adapter. A number of mobile phones use MicroUSB power cables, and these are compatible with the Raspberry Pi in most cases. Below is a list of power adapters known to work.

Working power Adapters
There is now a 5.25V 1500mA power supply manufactured specially for the Raspberry Pi to account for voltage drop due to the high current draw of the Raspberry Pi when compared to typical (phone charging etc.) duties. Available in UK, EU, USA and AU varieties from Pi Hut and Pi Supply


 * Adafruit
 * 5.25 V 1 A Model 501 (Newark 44W4932) USB 110-240 VAC power supply [4.99-5.01 V @ T1/T2 with 100 mA BT and/or mini wireless-n on RPi USB ports]
 * AlcaPower
 * 5 V 2.5 A Model AP5A - Charger/switching with 7 connectors(also Microusb)
 * Ansmann
 * Dual USB charger slim, Model-Nr. 1201-0001
 * Apple Note that apple designs its charger products to work optimally as chargers. In practice this means that apple chargers drop their output voltages somewhat with output current, so that the charging circuits do not need to dissipate more heat than is strictly necessary. Because of this, and although many people have reported apple products to power their basic PI setup reliably, its still not an optimal choice for a PI system that uses power hungry USB devices. Also, because of the popularity and high price of these chargers there are many very sub standard, but almost impossible to recognize as fake copies on the market, and some of these fakes are about the worst things you can try to power your PI with! Not only do they not work, they may actually be dangerous to use!
 * 5 V 2.1 A USB charger for iPad2, model A1357
 * 5 V 1.0 A USB Charger for iPod
 * 5 V 1.0 A USB Charger for iPhone 4
 * Amazon
 * 5 V 0.85 A USB charger for Kindle
 * 5 V 2 A Mains to USB A adaptor, Branded "CostMad"
 * Artwizz
 * 5 V 1.0 A USB charger (Model: YFAR23073001)
 * Asus
 * 5 V 2.0 A USB charger for Google Nexus 7
 * Bandridge
 * 5 V 1.0 A Mobile Phone Charger (Model: BPC3102EC)
 * Belkin
 * 5 V 2.6 A 4 port Ultra-Slim Desktop hub (Model F4U040) (Raspberry Pi running from USB hub port)
 * 5 V 2.5 A 4 port USB Hub (Model F5U404) (Raspberry Pi running from USB hub port)
 * 5 V 3.5 A 7 port USB 2.0 Mobile Powered Hub (Model F4U018) (Raspberry Pi running from USB hub port)
 * 5 V 3.5 A 7 port USB Hub (Model F5U706) (Raspberry Pi running from USB hub port)
 * Mini Surge Protector Dual USB Charger (Model BZ103050-TVL)
 * Universal USB Wall Charger (5 V 1 A) (Model F8Z222uk)
 * Universal Home Charger with Micro USB ChargeSync Cable (10 Watt/ 2.1 Amp) F8M667tt04 link
 * Blackberry
 * Charger for Pearl Flip 8220, Bold 9600 (B)
 * Charger for Tour 9630
 * 5V 1.8A "Folding Blade" Micro USB Tablet charger Part #: HDW-34724-001 Model #: AD8213HF (works with model A w/ camera + Wifi)
 * 5 V 0.7 A Model PSM04R-0500CHW1(M), RIM Part Number HDW-17957-003 (B)
 * 5 V 750 mA Model RIM-C-0004aDUUUC-001, RIM Part Number HWD-24481-001 (comes with Blackberry 9300)
 * 5 V 750 mA Model RIM-C-0004ADUUS-001 035D, Single port plug. (Tested with USB B to Micro USB cable from Logitech H760 Headset)
 * 5 V 2 A Model PSAC10R-050QT, RIM Part Number HDW-34725-001
 * 5 V 550 mA curve 8520 charger works with raspberry pi Model B Board v. BS1233. It does not work with Raspbmc image.Symtoms are frequent key board and external hdd disconnects.
 * Deal Extreme
 * S-10-5 5 V 2 A Regulated Switching Power Supply (110~220 V) (DIY: requires additional micro-USB connector and wiring)
 * Dell
 * USB Hub integrated in Dell monitors (B)
 * DLO
 * 5 V 1.0 A PowerBug (Model: SP05001000-A) Powers Pi, Wifi dongle and Webcam
 * The FX Factory
 * 5 V 1 A (1.2 A max) AC Travel Charger Model KJ-USB Mains. Typically provides 4.9 V at 1 A
 * 5 V 2x1 A Dual Charger Model TR9202-MICRO. Typically provides 4.8 V at 1 A per output. Can be used to power a Pi and, via a separate cable, a USB 4-port hub
 * Garmin
 * 5 V 1 A charger (Model: PSA105R-050Q) supplied with Garmin Edge 800 GPS. Requires a USB-A to MicroUSB-B cable. Belkin 6 ft cable (F3U151B06) works.
 * Gembird
 * 5 V 2 A Universal USB Charger (Model: MP3A-UC-AC5). Test: 1080p TV (1xHDMI), USB Wi-fi adapter (1xUSB), wireless keyboard and mouse (1xUSB). Results: ~5.3V, works without any problems (own usb cable required).
 * Globe Electric
 * 2-Outlet Tap with Surge Protection and 2 USB Chargers (46082). Rated at 1000 mA. 120 V systems only.
 * Griffin
 * Power Block Model P2417. 5 V 2.1 A
 * Power Block Model P1190R2 Two USB 5 V Outputs, 1 A each
 * Hama
 * 1000 mA Travel Charger for Micro USB universal (barcode nr: 4 007249 935854)
 * Hartig + Heiling GmbH & Co. KG
 * H+H SN 6 USB
 * HP
 * 5.3 V 2 A Charger for HP Touchpad (B)
 * HTC
 * 5 V 1 A TCP-300 USB phone charger (B)
 * 5 V 1 A TC B250 USB charger (HTC R/N: 79H00096-00M)
 * 5 V 1 A TC E250 USB charger (HTC R/N: 79H00098-02M)
 * i-box (Philex Electronic Ltd)
 * 5 V 1 A USB charger, 1 USB socket, no USB lead supplied, Model: 76971HS/02 (available from ASDA and others in the UK) (B).
 * IDAPT
 * i4 multi device charger - 3 interchangeable device tips + USB A socket (see it in use)
 * Innergie
 * 15 W Dual USB Adapter. Model: mMini AC15. Output: 5 V, 3 A (max per port), 15 W max. Specification sheet
 * ICIDU
 * PI-707730 charger 5V 2.1A, sometimes drops current to ~1.3A during heavy use, but still enough to power the Pi.
 * Kodak
 * 5 V 1 A TESA5G1-0501200
 * 5 V 1.0 A K20-AM
 * König
 * 5 V 1 A PSUP-GSM01
 * Kuanten
 * Model SSA051F050100USU, 1A output
 * LG
 * 4.8 V 1 A Travel Adapter
 * 5.1 V 0.7 A Travel Adapter (Model: STA-U34WVI)
 * 5.1 V 0.7 A Travel Adapter (Model: STA-U12ER)
 * Logic
 * 4 port USB Hub (Model LP4HUB10). (Raspberry Pi running from USB Hub port, red power line (+5 V) inside hub cut) (B)
 * LogiLink
 * 5 V 2.1 A Switching power supply, model PA0040 (B)
 * Logitech
 * 5 V 1 A SDC115-USB Remote Control Charger and cable
 * Maplin Electronics
 * 5 V 1 A dual USB power supply, model number H25B-MT-K2
 * Micro USB Power Supply N19HX
 * Medion
 * 5 V 1 A USB power supply for OYO ebook reader
 * Microsoft
 * Zune Zune AC Adapter v2
 * ModMyPi
 * 5.25V 2A HQ Raspberry Pi USB Power Supply (Detachable USB) [5.01 - 5.07V @ T1/T2 with Wifi dongle and Wireless Mouse/Keyboard on RPi USB ports]
 * Motorola
 * 5 V 0.85 A SPN5504 Charger with Cable
 * Noname
 * 5 V 2.1 A KMS-AC09 4 port USB charger (B)
 * 5.2 V 1 A MW-3NU10GT - no cable, but this one works well (1m):
 * 5 V 1 A Model H-IP008 Serial No. H10T80L068
 * 5 V 1 A Travel charger Model MSH-TR-018A reseller1, reseller2
 * 5V 2A Mobile Charger For Galaxy S4 NOTE 2 N7100 N7000 With USB Cable(in India) Ebay.in
 * Novatel Wireless
 * 5 V 1.05 A Charger, model number SSW-1811, packaged with Verizon Wireless MiFi device
 * Orange
 * 5 V 0.7 A Charger for Orange San Francisco
 * Palm
 * 5 V 1 A Charger for Palm Pixi+ (B)
 * Pantech
 * 5.0 V 1 A CNR USB with LG DLC100 micro USB cable
 * Petzl
 * 5.0 V 1 A Charger that came with the Tikka core2 XP
 * Phihong
 * Switching Power Supply. Model: PSAC09R-050. Output: 5 V, 1.8 A, microUSB. Digi-key Link
 * Pi Supply
 * 5.25V 1.5A Raspberry Pi USB Power Supply Specially designed for the Pi. Comes in 4 varieties for worldwide compatibility - UK,  European (EU),  American (USA) and  Australian (AUS).
 * PortaPow
 * PortaPow UK Mains Wall Power Supply
 * PowerGen
 * PowerGen Dual Port USB 2.1A 10W AC Travel Wall Charger. Amazon Link
 * Rayovac
 * Universal USB Charger Model: PS69 100-240 VAC to 5 V 1 A (small cube w/folding plug) works w/wireless keyboard/mouse and mini-Wifi connected
 * RhoTech
 * RH-PS001 5V/2A, dedicated for Raspberry Pi, integrated MicroUSB cable. Stable with Raspbmc and WiFi card.
 * RH-PS002 5V/2.1A dual USB Power Supply.
 * '''RS Components'
 * HNP06UK (RS 7263069) Switching Adapter 5.0 V 1200 mA
 * Samsung
 * 5 V 0.7 A Charger for Galaxy S model ETA0U10EBE
 * 5 V 0.7 A Charger for Galaxy SII
 * 5 V 1 A Charger for Galaxy SIII
 * 5 V 1 A Charger for Galaxy Nexus
 * 5 V 0.7 A Charger for Galaxy S Vibrant (SGH-T959)
 * 5 V 0.7 A Travel Adapter model ATADU10EBE
 * 5 V 1 A? Samsung C Series TV USB-port for external HDDs. Running stable with openelec
 * 5 V ?A (Unknown) Samsung Service Port (USB) on LN32A330J1DXZA 720p 32 inch HDTV
 * 5 V Unknown Ampere Samsung UA22D5000 & UA32D5000 TV USB Port. Test with Raspbian Wheezy, Raspbmc, and RPITC
 * 5 V 2 A charger for Galaxy Note 2; model ETA-U90EWE (works with cam module, Edimax wifi, SD card and analog audio out, even down to 4.62 V on model B rev 1).
 * Shun Shing
 * 100-240 VAC to 5 VDC 1 A USB power supply, model SP5Q-AU Jaycar
 * Sony Ericsson
 * 5 V 0.7 A Charger CST-80
 * 5 V 0.85 A Greenheart&#153; Charger EP800. Typically provides 4.8 V at 0.85 A.
 * StarTech
 * 4 Port USB 2.0 Hub Raspberry Pi can be powered just by plugging USB input into the Raspberry Pi, don't need power in micro USB port.
 * Travel Charger
 * 5 V 2.0 A USB Power Adapter, Amazon Link
 * Technika
 * 5 V 1 A USB Power Adapter, model MPASS01 (B)
 * Tinpec
 * 5 V 2 A USB Power Adapter model RG-AAC210, sold by Elro as AV323S
 * Trisonic
 * TS-CP600T - MICRO USB HOME & TRAVEL CHARGER (5 V, 800 mA) $3 at Daiso U.S. stores.
 * TruePower
 * U-Socket 5 V 2.1 A AC Receptacle with Built-in USB ports (2.1 A per USB port) model ACE-7169
 * Turnigy
 * TURNIGY 3A UBEC w/ Noise Reduction, connected to GPIO Pins
 * Voltcraft
 * SPS5-12W, 2500 mA, requires additional USB <-> miniUSB adapter/cable, works perfectly (bought from Conrad Shop)
 * ZTE
 * ZTE Blade charger STC-A22O501700USBA-A 5 V 700 mA

Problem power Adapters

 * Nokia
 * 5 V 1.2 A AC-10A & AC-10E Chargers only provide 4.8V at TP1 & TP2
 * 5 V 1 A AC-16E Charger Provides only 4.7V across TP1 & TP2 when at idle


 * Masterplug
 * Masterplug Surge Protected USB Adaptor 2 x 1 A USB Polished Black - USB ports and Ethernet don't work with this adapter and some screen artifacts using HDMI.
 * Monoprice
 * 5 V, 2 A 3 Outlet Power Surge Protector Wall Tap with 2 Built-In USB Charger - some display artifacts, sometimes unable to find mouse, some failures to boot. Measured to less than 4.75 V between TP1 and TP2 when used with a Monoprice cable.
 * Sony Ericsson
 * 5 V, 850 mA EP800. Some failures to boot, Ethernet loops at boot.

Working external Battery packs (with 5 V regulated output)

 * Anker
 * Astro3 10000 mAh with dual 2 A USB output
 * Astro E7 2nd Gen (A1210) 26800 mAh with triple 4 A USB output
 * PowerCore (A1271) 20100 mAh with dual 2.4 A USB output
 * Duracell
 * PPS2 Instant USB Charger
 * EasyAcc
 * PB12000A 12000 mAh battery with 2.1 A USB output
 * Energizer/XPAL
 * XP18000 18000 mAh Power Pack
 * Generic - eBay no brand
 * 6000T Pocket Power 5000 mAh - eBay item 271009959140
 * Power Bank for iPad/iPhone 5000 mAh (looks the same as a New Trent IMP50D or TeckNet iEP380) - eBay item 280914455938
 * Mophie
 * 38113BBR Juice Pack Powerstation 4000 mAh: output 2.1 A max: included charging cable powers RPi, 7.5 hrs light use w/keyboard and mini-Wifi on RPi ports
 * iEnjoy
 * MyBolt 2600mAh
 * New Trent
 * iCurve IMP70D 7000 mAh (Approx 12 hours from full charge)
 * IMP120D 12000 mAh
 * Sinoele
 * Movpower - Power Bank 5200 mAh (8 hours with Wi-Fi active)
 * TeckNet
 * iEP387 Dual-Port 7000 mAh External Power Bank (The charging lead can be used to connect the Tecknet to the Raspberry Pi. Ran the Raspberry Pi with Wi-Fi dongle and wireless keyboard receiver for over 9 hours of light use.)
 * iEP392 Dual-Port 12000 mAh External Power Bank (1 A port, ~16.5 hours)
 * Rayovac PS60 5 V 800 mAh
 * VINZO
 * Power Bank 5000 mAh Grey Output 5 V 1000 mA
 * Kodak Power Pack KP1000
 * 1 A USB rechargeable battery pack - see Shea Silverman's blog
 * Swees
 * Swees® 12000mAh Smart Power Bank (Output: 5V / 4.2A max)

Display adapters
Note that active converter boxes may draw power through the HDMI port, and thus will put an extra load on your PSU, and also increase the current running through the Raspberry Pi's primary input fuse. HDMI ports (and the raspberry PI) are designed so that they deliver a very limited amount of power (50 mA) to the TV/Monitor/display-adapter and much more isn't in theory allowed. In fact there is a diode (D1) in series with the power line which can only handle 200 mA, if the adapter tries to draw much more than that the diode might fail. Therefore only externally powered adapters are to be recommended. Despite this, many people report success with non externally powered devices. If you have bought a non externally powered HDMI to VGA adapter, and you experience problems with it (It behaves badly, D1 burns out, F3 "blows", or your PSU overloads), then not all is lost, there are cheap (a few dollars) adapters that allow you to add external power to the HDMI cable! An example can be found here:.

HDMI->DVI-D cables
HDMI to DVI-D cables, or HDMI cables with an DVI-D adapters should work, connected to a DVI-D monitor, that is because both HDMI and DVI use the same kind of digital signaling (LVDS). The only limitation being that DVI-D misses the signal channel for audio.

There are three kinds of DVI. There is DVI-D, a digital signal fully compatible with HDMI, so a passive cable can be used. There is DVI-I, which is a connector with both analog pins and digital pins. An HDMI to DVI-D adapter fits in a DVI-I female connector. Finally, there is DVI-A. This a fairly rare connection, but occasionally it will be found on some monitors and is an analog interface, in fact the same as VGA! In any case, you may need to change config.txt hdmi_force_hotplug=0 to =1 if your display does not receive DVI signal (the analog output is likely active).

Some adapters like Farnell part AK-CBHD03-BK are HDMI to DVI-I, which, while not fitting in a DVI-D monitor, are still compatible. The analog pins simply must be bent.

The HDMI to DVI-D cable provided by Apple with the 2010 Mac Mini worked. It does not appear this adapter can be purchased separately.


 * The Pi Hut
 * HDMI to DVI Cable for the Raspberry Pi (from The Pi Hut's Raspberry Pi Store)
 * Other Variants
 * AmazonBasics HDMI to DVI Adapter Cable (model SK231) works and is inexpensive.
 * A generic HDMI-to-DVI converter from eBay. Works well, but it's probably the cause of some power loss between the Raspberry Pi and the monitor, causing this problem. A setting of config_hdmi_boost=5 in /etc/boot solved this. Note that config_hdmi_boost=4, as suggested in the troubleshooting guide, helped, but it did not solve the problem completely.

HDMI->VGA Cables
HDMI to VGA cables do not work! They rely on logic incorporated in a video card that isn't available in a PI. Somehow such a video card outputs analog signal on the otherwise purely digital HDMI connector, that seems to be the only way for it to work. But normally HDMI cables never carry analog signals and the PI surely doesn't output analog signals either, almost no HDMI output device does, as its completely against HDMI specifications.

HDMI->VGA converter boxes
HDMI to VGA converters do work, they convert the digital serial data streams from HDMI and using complex logic, and digital to analog converters they convert the HDMI signal to the analog signals needed for VGA, and sometimes also convert HDMI audio to an analog stereo signal. But note that if they feed off the PI it can cause a problem, as the PI only is designed to provide about 50mA to the (HDMI or DVI-D) monitor, and these adapters use >200mA, while the absolute maximum the PI can let through is 200mA. These adapters also thus use about half the energy that the PI (without USB devices) uses. Therefore its much better to use an adapter that has an external power input. Alternatively there are HDMI dongles (male to female HDMI adapters) that have a barrel input connector to feed the adapter with.

It seems unlikely any of these HDMI->VGA converters could be used for driving a SCART RGB SD CRT TV with a suitable lead (as shown here for ATI/Nvidia PC output http://www.mythtv.org/wiki/RGB_Scart) because they only output preset progressive resolutions, whereas the TV will need an interlaced resolution and probably custom timings.

Most will require use RPi_config.txt. Start off with hdmi_safe=1.

HDMI to VGA + audio adapter from DHgate
 * Under six pounds with free international shipping makes this worth the delivery time of just under 3 weeks.  Works out of the box at 1024x768 without editing config.txt (I'll try editing for full HD later).  Spec. says upto UXGA and 1080p with 10-bit DAC at 165MHz/1.65Gbps.  Raspberry "tvservice -a" reports that it supports audio up to 192k at 24-bit.  Sounded fine on my tiny speaker.  Comes with 3.5mm stereo plug-to-plug cable and USB to mini barrel jack power cable which it doesn't need on the Pi.  Ran mine for ages without the external power and the Pi's HDMI regulator never got more than 34 degrees C.  Adapter weighs only 14.8g and can plug directly into the Pi or even via a 90-degree 'elbow' which I prefer to use.  VGA signal is good enough to run 2 displays at once using a cheap splitter cable.  After brief testing with good headphones, it seems there's some definite noise on a signal of 17,500Hz and 18,500Hz is distorted.  In contrast, the RPi's own analogue sounds clean at 17,500Hz.  So you couldn't consider this an alternative to a good USB DAC.

HDMI to VGA Cable adaptor from amazon
 * At under ten pounds this one is one of the cheapest, but perhaps due to a more advanced design is seems power frugal enough to most often work well with a Pi, it has many comments saying it works well with the Pi, and gives tips on how to edit config.txt.

HDMI to VGA adapter from amazon - USA http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JLRHMZE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Ableconn HDMI2VGAD Active HDMI to VGA Adapter Converter Dongle for Desktop PC/Notebook up to 1920x1200 / 1920x1080 - HDMI to VGA HD15 monitor Price:	$17.99 (Mar. 13, 2015). One photo shows three Pi models connected to VGA monitors. The AbleComm logo is on clear tape wrapped around the adapter, apparently made for "private labeling". So, the item is probably sold by other suppliers too. The adapter is very compact and low-power, unlike some of the other adapters. My ViewSonic VA702b monitor required: hdmi_group=2  -- indicates VGA hdmi_mode=35  -- 1280 x 1024, 60 Hz Prior to those changes, the picture color was mostly red, but readable enough to log in and edit config.txt.
 * This one works with Pi, but does require config.txt edit.

Sanoxy HDMI to VGA converter
 * Sanoxy HDMI to VGA converter'', $27 from Amazon, no changes required with official Raspbian Wheezy image (2012-Jul-15), note: had already disabled overscan previously

"Neewer" HDMI to VGA  According to user "Tom1989" the same Neewer HDMI to VGA adapter burned out BAT54 Schottky diode D1 on the Raspberry Pi and broke its HDMI output: [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=9819 Serious HDMI Problems. What's that smell? Burning Raspberry!]. On that thread, "mahjongg" suggested the NXP (or equivalent) PMEG2010AET as a high-current replacement for D1. The PMEG2010AET has 1 A max forward current, much greater than the BAT54's 200 mA limit which may be exceeded by your HDMI -> VGA converter. Remember that the converter's current must come from your Raspberry Pi power supply and go through the Micro USB cable and polyfuse F3, so you may get extra voltage drops and/or cause F3 to trip depending on how much current the converter uses. As always with board modifications, YMMV. Also on the same" thread, user "pwinwood" reported the Neewer's current to be 400 mA, which is twice the limit of BAT54 diode D1. "pwinwood" also took the Neewer apart and added its own +5 V connection adapted from a USB cable, which bypasses Raspberry Pi's Micro USB cable and polyfuse F3. Link to a gallery with detailed images & steps of the same adapter modification: HERE --by Pinoccio
 * http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B007KEIRNG -- "Neewer" HDMI to VGA -- some issues discussed below:

"Kanaan" HDMI-VGA
 * http://www.amazon.co.uk/KanaaN-Adapter-Converter-Cable-Resolutions/dp/B007QT0NNW -- "Kanaan" HDMI-VGA

HDMI Male to VGA RGB Female HDMI to VGA Video Converter adapter
 * http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130699741793 -- eBay is swarming with $16 converters all like this one.

HDMI to VGA 3.5mm Audio HDTV HD Video Converter Sadly the IC's on the PCB have all been scrubbed. In-depth review http://raspi.tv/2013/hdmi-to-vga-video-converter-with-sound-for-raspberry-pi-review. Requires HDMI boost and overscan, config.txt settings for 640x480 @60 Hz: hdmi_drive=2 hdmi_group=2 hdmi_mode=4 config_hdmi_boost=4 overscan_top=-30 overscan_bottom=-30 overscan_left=-30 overscan_right=-30
 * This adapter -- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300692770623 -- works from 640x480 up to 1920x1080, audio over HDMI works too.

HDFuryPro HDMI to YPbBr/VGA Converter The config.txt settings used are: hdmi_drive=2 hdmi_group=2 hdmi_mode=36 disable_overscan=1
 * HDFuryPro HDMI to YPbBr/VGA Converter found on Amazon -- -- Works with Raspberry Pi. Tested against a Philips 170B 1280x1024 LCD monitor, producing a full native resolution image. Not tested against a Component Video TV yet, and audio has yet to be got working.

HDFury1 1080p HDMI to VGA Converter The config.txt settings used are: hdmi_drive=2 hdmi_group=2 hdmi_mode=36 disable_overscan=1
 * HDFury1 1080p HDMI to VGA Converter from HDFury.com. I'm not sure the HDFury1 can be got a hold of easily nowadays, I happened to have access to one to try out. HDFury2, 3 and 4 are available as far as I can tell, but it is very pricey compared to the alternatives. HDFury1 was around £80 when we bought one for a project at work. HDFury2 seems to be around £130, 3 and 4 are getting on towards £200 or more. So not to be recommended as a solution unless you happen to have one lying around. I don't believe there is any relationship between the company that produces these and the HDFuryPro I bought for myself (See above). I didn't alter any config settings, just plugged it in. It doesn't work without having its external power supply connected, as it requires 0.4 A, which is too much draw for the 5 V supply available from the HDMI socket on the Raspberry Pi. Its power LED lights, but no picture is produced. In comparison to the HDFuryPro this picture from this device is sharper, but it is not enough to justify the extra cost.

Cable Matters Gold Plated Premium HDMI to VGA Or in the US: How to get working if no output: edit config.txt hdmi_drive=2 hdmi_group=2 hdmi_mode=36 #1280x1024 - change to desired resolution hdmi_force_hotplug=1 Turn on the RaspberryPi with the adapter plugged into the HDMI port and the microUSB cord plugged into the adapter. Having the microUSB cord plugged in is critical for it to work. With the Pi still on, unplug the adapter from the HDMI port and remove the VGA cable from the adapter. Now unplug usb cord from the adapter and immediately plug back in. Only the microUSB power cord should be plugged in. Now plug the VGA cord back into the adapter. Both the power cord and the VGA cord should be plugged into the adapter. Plug the adapter back into the HDMI port. Now it should be working. From playing around with the device on my laptop I found that the adapter needs power to be able to tell what the resolution of the VGA monitor is. If it is unable to find the VGA resolution it will not work. Unplugging the HDMI, VGA, and power cord seems to reset the device. Plugging the microUSB cable in seems to turn on the device, allowing VGA resolution detection to work. This method will probably work by just starting the Pi with no adapter plugged in, then just plug in the microUSB, VGA, and HDMI cable in that order.
 * http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B007SM7O2U/ - "Cable Matters"
 * http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00879DM56 - "Cable Matters Active HDMI to VGA Adapter"  I've seen mixed results with this one; it seems to work the very first time I try it on a given monitor, but then I can't seem to get it to work afterwards.  I've tried various combinations of the other settings shown in this section with no success.

HDMI V1.4 Male to VGA Female Converter Adapter The config.txt for Raspbian (Flatron VGA monitor 1024 * 768): hdmi_drive=2 hdmi_group=2 hdmi_mode=16 hdmi_force_hotplug=1 disable_overscan=0
 * http://www.dealextreme.com/p/hdmi-v1-4-male-to-vga-female-converter-adapter-cable-white-15cm-130458, is cheap (it's free shipping from china) and works perfectly, I tested it with an Acer VGA monitor (AL1511), without no change in my XBMC distribution.

 HDMI - VGA [lontium chip]
 * http://cgi.ebay.pl/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=251086464644. It is very cheap, but it works perfectly. No config.txt changes was needed at all. I've booted Raspbian and OpenELEC. Monitor is detected correctly and the optimal resolution is set (Raspbian) or you can change the res in the menu (OpenELEC). The /opt/vc/bin/tvservice is able to read monitor edid data. I tested the adapter using NEC 72VM 15" LCD. (1280x1024 60 Hz, 1024x768 60 Hz, 640x480 works) The adapter is based on Lontium LT8511A chip, but I was unable to get the specification for it. The D1 diode is getting very hot though. Most likely the adapter drives more than 200 mA. The standard RS Components 1.2 A USB power supply is able to provide enough power for the Raspberry Pi and the adapter. I'll try to modify the adapter to connect external power to bypass D1.

Pi-View HDMI-VGA converter
 * The "Pi-View" was designed specifically for use with the Raspberry Pi.  It does work although the small box gets warm and the video output isn't great (slightly fuzzy text, smaller screen area even with overscan enabled)

DVI-D -> VGA active adapters
None are currently listed

Composite->SCART
SCART adapters (SCART plugs with three RCA connectors in the back), will probably work when used with the yellow RCA plug connected to the Raspberry Pi's RCA video output. Additionally using a splitter cable (3.5 mm jack plug on one end, and red-white RCA plugs on the other end) will probably work when plugged into the red and white (left and right audio channels) of the SCART adapter.


 * Generic - works

Composite->VGA converter boxes

 * Extron DVS-204 - works no problem!

Boblight hardware
Lightberry
 * http://lightberry.eu it's the first (I think), dedicated hardware for Raspberry Pi that can produce colorful effects behind your TV, when you watch movies or even pictures. It uses GPIO pins (not USB). It is easy to configure - you can even download configured system image from the producer website. Works perfectly :)

SD cards
The SD card section has been moved to a separate page. See RPi SD cards

Foreign Language Translations

 * RaspberryPiBoardVerifiedPeripherals